repast.
R AW & U N PA S T E U R I S E D TA L E S O F E AT I N G D R I N K I N G & T R AV E L L I N G R BA
N O R M A N DY B U RG U N DY S A N S E BA S T I A N PA R I S
D U JAC S W I N E
CONTENTS
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6 6
8
NORMANDY SaQuaNa Marché Aux Poissons l’Essentiel Monet’s Garden
BURGUNDY 12 14
Where to Stay Le Chevreuil
16 18
Meursault Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent
SAN SEBASTIAN
106
PARIS
40
44 46
48
50
52
54
56
57
58
For subscriptions visit www.repast.com.au
Le Restaurant des Sœurs Ahizpak
Domaine Jean Fournier
38
LUCY HOWARD
89
Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure
36
Sub-Editor/Photography
BIARRITZ
28
34
HEIDI HOLMES
Le Central
101 102
32
Photography & Design
La Maison Troisgros
21 Boulevard
31
JEREMY HOLMES
87
24
30
Words
83
93
26
Tanunda, South Australia 5352
ROANNE
Domaine Dujac Le Millésime Domaine Thomas Morey
19 20 22
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repast.
66
68
70 72 73 74
75 78 80
Le Montrachet
Domaine Marc Roy La Rôtisserie du Chambertin Gevrey-Chambertin
Les Gourmets
Domaine Henri Germain Auprès du Clocher
Pommard Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Le Bistro des Cocottes Benjamin Leroux Domaine Lucien Jacob
Ma Cuisine Beaune Restaurant Meulien Domaine A. et P. de Villaine Jean-Claude Boisset La Cabotte Domaine Daniel Rion Domaine Blain-Gagnard Pavillon François Gaunoux Domaine Jacques Carillon Spanky Botts
BEAUJOLAIS
61
Georges Descombes
64
Jean Foillard
94
98
Where to Stay Mugaritz
Mirador de Ulia Ice cream of Choice Pintxos Rekondo
111
Where to Stay
112
La Tour d'Argent
117 118 120 122 123 124 126
128 130 132 133 134 136
138 138 140 142 143 144 146
Sainte-Chapelle Le Comptoir Eggs&Co. La Cagouille Invasion Le Petit Verdot, 17eme Fondation Louis Vuitton
Jardin d'Acclimatation Restaurant Pages Mariage Frères Musée Picasso Passage 53 Le Jardin du Palais Royal
Willi's Wine Bar Pouic Pouic David Bowie at Philharmonie Ambassade de Bourgogne La Crèmerie Gare au Gorille Angelina
147
Le Petit Verdot, 6eme
151
AG Restaurant
148
152
O
n paper, our flight to Paris looked full of possibilities for lots of sleep. In reality, we hit the ground crawling, after a sum total of about 10 minutes between the five of us. Cousin Lucy went straight to London to get away from us for five days and Team Holmes drove gingerly across to Normandy for a rest. After gorging on Pontl’Évêque and seafood for the best part of a week, we hit Burgundy to, well, gorge on Époisses and Bresse chicken. The bristling acidities of the 2013 red and white Burgundies cut through the richness of the local cuisine and ensured we maintained gustatory balance. Our good friend, Colin, came along for the ride in Burgundy. San Sebastian was the next point of call, with a detour to Roanne for a meal at the best restaurant on the planet (see Page 83). A day in Biarritz yielded good dining results. Rounding off the trip in Paris was just what our doctor had not ordered, but we did it anyway. By this stage, we were starting to bear a resemblance to Bibendum, the cute character (pictured above) from the Michelin Guide. Cheers,
Joséphine ‘Chez Dumonet’ Verdot, 6eme
Le Villaret
2
NORMANDY BAROSSA
NORMANDY BAROSSA
3
On the boardwalk: Trouville-sur-Mer
Freshly canned seafood
Trouville-sur-Mer
NORMANDY Breton Boucherie and Charcuterie Deauville
Local Trouville poster artist, Savignac
Honfleur
4
NORMANDY BAROSSA
NORMANDY BAROSSA
Veal with potatoes, white peas and pea shoots
SaQuaNa
E out.
ven though the weather had closed in, the promise of a good lunch in a two star Michelin with friends from Paris was too much and we accepted their offer sans hesitation and headed
SaQuaNa in Honfleur has a modern feel. The dining room is stark and minimalist but it feels warm. Crikey, an igloo would feel warm after the 1km walk in misty rain I endured after dropping the family off at the front door.
and a most delicious crème de volaille. Lily and Patrick had some mackerel in a light tempura batter served on a perfectly dressed bowl of salad leaves. They loved the fish but artfully dodged the salad. The big people’s mackerel was also done in a tempura batter but served with a kind of salami mince that was rich and robust of flavor. Leek and fennel tops freshened up the dish and it was a triumphant offering; perhaps the best of an excellent meal.
The meat dish was a perfectly grilled piece of veal served with potatoes, white peas and pea shoots. The We opted for the Rouge Cerise menu and plenty of jus had some white chocolate and Périgord truffle tasty amuse arrived shortly after. The kids opted for worked through it. Sounds the kids menu and weird but it worked. The kids’ absolutely hammered a chicken was fabulous. Served few amuse as well. There with the right amount of carbs was a delicious seafood fill them up. Rice for Patrick custard: a little gougère We ambled down to to and pasta for Lily. with a salty cured sardine adorning the top. the Harbour to take in the Cheese offering here is compact A strange crisp meringue picture perfect postcard but like a greatest hits record, where you get 10 of the very stick featured Nori but setting and then spun dry best and no filler. Comté, Saint tasted quite sweet. There Nectaire and Livarot for me. was also a sweet thing the kids on the carousel. The same for Heidi, although that looked like the she substituted the Livarot offspring of a pancake for some other washed-rind and omelette getting it number that she can’t remember the name of. Don’t on together. It was sweet and savoury. know what it’s doing on the greatest hits album? Our friend was in charge of wine ordering and I didn’t get to see the wine list. He opted for a sauvignon from Bergerac but I didn’t catch its name. I’m not doing too well here, am I? We were busy chatting at the time. I immediately halted the chat as the red he ordered hit the table. The 2011 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet was young but accessible. It showed some cracked pepper, dried flowers and red fruits on the nose. It was exquisitely balanced in the mouth, with deliciously perfumed and crunchy berry fruits that went a little blue with air. Its texture was lacy and the wine crackled with energy right through the minerally finish. A fillet of cod was served with beautifully fresh Swiss Chard. There were some little gallettes of buckwheat
Three magnificent ice creams – lemon, vanilla and chocolate – rounded off the menu d’enfant. The adults had an artistic-looking thing that tasted as good as it looked. The combo of chocolate sorbet, cream, white chocolate, mango and meringue worked really well. Coffee was good and I had to punch in two before heading out into the cold and bleak day. We ambled down to the harbour to take in the picture perfect postcard setting and then spun dry the kids on the carousel. SaQuaNa 22 Place Hamelin, 14600 Honfleur, France Ph: +33 2 31 89 40 80
Amuse-bouches
Kids spin dryer
The artistic dessert
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