Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT There are a number of different climbing areas close to the town of Ontinyent in the ravines called Barranco de L’Avern, the Barranco D’els Tarongers and Barranco de Bocairent. The limestone rock is characterized by tufas, overhangs and hanging stalactites.
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT APPROACHES All the crags are in an area next to the major highways of the A-330, the A430 and the N-340, close to the town of Ontinyent (Onteniente). The climbing is best approached from there by going towards the town of Bocairent and signed Villena.
where you leave the river. In front of you is the cliff above the railway.
Sector 1: Pou Clar and Sector 2: La Monja are visble from the parking for Pou Clar, 2km from Ontinyent.
WHERE TO STAY It is prohibited to camp anywhere in the sierra. There are hotels and hostels in Ontinyent.
Sector 3: El Pont: Continue past the second bridge. You can leave the car before or after the bridge. From there, for Sector 4: La Cequia, Sector 5: El Gegant and Sector 6: El Cagalló del Gegant go down under the bridge for the well marked path. When the path disappears there is a small path through the reeds to a small ditch at the base of the wall.
THE SECTORS 1 – Finestres 2 – La Monja 3 – El Pont 4 – La Cequia 5 – El Gegant 6 – Cagallo del Gegant 7 – El Cami 8 – El Deposit and La Visera
9 – Patiras 9a – Tufa Wall 9b - Pylon 10 – La Via 11 – Heavy Pescador 12 – Fragel Rock I 13 – Fragel Rock II 14 – La Cantera
For sectors 7,8 and 9 take the single track off to the right from the main road. Follow this to a electricity transformer building. Park here. For sector 7 and 8 take the track leading to the right up the gully. For sectors 9, 9a and 9b follow the path next the river bed. Sector 7: El Cami: Take the track before the second bridge and park the car at the bars. Sector 10: La Via: Continue along the main road and leave the car on the left
Heavy Pescador and Fragel Rock I and II: After the end of the two-lane road, leave the car on the right of the road. Go on foot along the road to where you can identify the sectors.
Sector 9a: Tufa Wall From the parking follow the path, passing Patirás and Pylon until you reach the old ruined mill house. Find a path leading from behind the mill house next to a water trough and follow this along the right bank eventually traversing slabby rock to reach the tufa laden crag. The approach takes 20-25 minutes from the parking place. The routes are described from left to right.
1. ?
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6c+
Two or three bolted project lines wander up the rock in the centre of the face.
25m. At the left side of the crag. Climb the slab to a steep wall and pull into the cave. Climb through the roof of this and make a long reach to gain better holds.
6. ?
2. ?
From behind the tree climb the pocket and tufa cover wall to reach a large hole. Pull through the roof above to the belay.
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6c
25m. Slightly easier line 3 metres to the right.
3. ?
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7a+
7. ?
8. ?
4. ?
9. ?
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7a+
5. ?
Project
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7c
From the platform starting just left of the tree climb the tufa’s up the overhanging wall.
25m. Very obvious line up the large tufas. Pull slightly rightwards where it steepens, crux, and then more easily to a belay. 25m. Line to the right joining route 3 at the bulge.
Barranc de l`Avern. Sector 10: La Vía
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7c
7b
Start below the platform and climb the smoother wall on tufas..
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6c+
At the very right side of the crag climb the large tufas.
The routes are described from left to right.
1. Capoli. . . . . . . . . . .
Sector 9b: Pylon
6a+
2. Brimonsler . . . . . . . .
6b+
From the parking area follow the footpath next to the river passing Patirás and shortly alter crossing the stream bed find a foot path taking a steeper line up the hillside. Aim for the cliff close to the electricity pylon. The approach takes about 15 minutes from the parking place.
3. El principle . . . . . . . .
7a+
4. Alex . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c+
The routes are described from left to right.
5. Orelies curtes . . . . . . .
7a
6. Crelles llargues . . . . . .
6c
7. Johny Mencieta . . . . . .
6a+
8. La ley del agarre . . . . . .
6c+
Climb the tufa line to a hole where the roof starts. A good warm-up for the harder routes.
9. Caxipolla . . . . . . . . .
6c
9. ?
10. No talies el telix . . . . .
6b
As for route 8 to the roof. Pull past the hole and up the stepped wall above.
11. El cerdo volador . . . . .
6c
10. ?
12. Baixca 41 . . . . . . . . .
6c
13. Mocadior blau . . . . . .
6b
14. Calla . . . . . . . . .
6b
1. ?
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Project
2. ?
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8b
3. ?
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8a
Large tufa leading to the roof. Finish at the lip.
4. ?
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Project
Tufa line to the right and final roof.
5. ?
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8b
Excellent looking overhanging shallow scoop line running up the wall.
6. ?
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8b+
Very steep line up the bulging arête.
7. ?
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8. ?
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?
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6c+
8a+
8b
Climb tufa’s up the wall and cross the wide roof following the crack line.
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