Join Dylan Smith and Carl-Ola Boström on a tour of Sweden’s best blocs. Swedish Meatballs features classic lines and first ascents as Dylan and Kalle spend a month on the road meeting up with the boulderers who shaped the Swedish scene. Includes an additional 51 minutes of what life on the road is really like...

Tielma Productions presents a Shawn Boye film featuring Dylan Smith Carl-Ola Boström Johan Andersson Stefan Rasmussen Said Belhaj Peter Bosma Magnus Lindstedt Stefan Pettersson Anja Hodann Fredrik Bodin Katrin Svensson Helena Lundgren Directed Filmed Edited Scored Produced by Shawn Boye

Sundsvall •Raholmen •Krokviken •Bergafjärden •Gnarp

Örebro •Rosendal

Uppsala •Källberga •Fiby •Focksta

music by

My Aspirin Bird Broken Records Driz and the Alarms Dollface Kung Kodum DHM Contratunes Mikael Malmborg Meldeah Mazy Marcus Berg The Chrysler

Stockholm •Brudberget •Larsboda •Långholmen •Kolartorp

TIELMA

Norrköping •Lillsjön •Björndalen

P R O D U C T I O N S

Göteborg •Sandsjöbacka •Utby •Mellbydalen •Ulorna •Hönö

Kristianstad •Kjugekull

Västervik •Järnforsen •Marstrand •Fruberget •VO-stenarna

v 1.00 © 2007 Shawn Boye

16:9 Stereo 59 + 54 min Subtitles:En,Sv Region:0 Filmed in

www.tielma.com

W W W. T I E L M A . C O M

TIELMA P R O D U C T I O N S

RAHOLMEN...................................................

55

Drive north from Sundsvall on the E4, after 3 km turn right towards Alnön, drive across the bridge onto the island. Turn right in the first round-about, drive through the center and continue for 8.5 km. After the sign for Vindhem take the first exit on the right and continue onto the dirt road. Drive slowly past the houses and horse pens, turn right at the t-junction, keep to the right where the road splits and turn left by the big bloc, park at the end of the road and walk into the forest on the right. HIGHLIGHTS: Nangijala 7C+, Saga 8A INFO: www.tkak.mine.nu, www.webpage.nu/skk/

KROKVIKEN..........................................................................

10

Drive north from Sundsvall on the E4, after 3 km turn right towards Alnön, drive across the bridge onto the island. Turn right in the first round-about, drive through the center and continue for 11.5 km to Krokviken. Park on the right side of the road by the water, walk along the road for 200m and turn left up to the blocs. HIGHLIGHTS: Gyllene snittet 7B+, Tom ford 7A+ INFO: www.tkak.mine.nu, www.webpage.nu/skk/

BERGAFJÄRDEN.....................................................................

15

Drive south from Sundsvall on the E4 to Njurundabommen, turn left by the church ruin, continue for 300m and turn left towards Björkön/Bergafjärden. After the bridge take the first left, turn right after 500m towards Lörudden/Björkön, drive for 3 km, take the exit for Bergafjärden, after 500m keep right where the road splits, after another 400m take the second tractor road to the left, then the first right and park discretely at the interscetion. Walk to the right in the intersection and then left onto the path. HIGHLIGHTS: Elite hotel 6B+, Reload 7B INFO: www.tkak.mine.nu, www.webpage.nu/skk/

GNARP.................................................................................

1

Drive south from Sundsvall on the E4, 7 km past Gnarp take the exit for the Motorbana, drive across the train tracks and continue for 400m, keep to the right where the road splits and continue for 250m. Park and walk in to the blocs on the right. HIGHLIGHTS: Hyena 7B+ INFO: www.tkak.mine.nu, www.webpage.nu/skk/

born professionally More information on www.granitbiten.com S w e d i s h b l o c s t a r A n j a H o d a n n o n P. F. O . S ( V 9 ) i n H u e c o T a n k s , T e x a s . P h o t o : S t e f a n P e t t e r s s o n

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Some people will call it cheating...

KJUGEKULL...........................................................................

5

Drive north from Kristianstad on the E22, after 7 km take the exit to Fjälkinge, drive through Kiaby, and follow the road signs to the Kjugekull nature reserve. HIGHLIGHTS: Babar 7A, Baltazar 7A+ Caspersens arete 7B, Clark kent 6B+, Ferdinand 7B+, Lithium 7C+, Moby dick 7B+, Monolith 7A+ INFO: Kjugekull med mera, Tjugo på Kjuge, www.kjuge.nu

JÄRNFORSEN........................................................................

5

Drive west from Målilla on the 127 toward Järnforsen. Disasterpiece: park 400m past Lerbo on the right and walk back up the road. Voodoo: Take the second right in the big left hand turn 500m before Järnforsen then take the first right on to the dirt road and the first left, park and walk into the pine forest. Rythm: turn right on to the dirt road just before entering Järnforsen, park after 100m, follow the trail. HIGHLIGHTS: Disasterpiece 7C+, Jihad mot folkhemmet 6C, Rythm 7C+, Silverfish 7A+, Stressless 7A+, Take a look in the mirror 7B+, Voodoo 8A INFO: www.vkcenter.se, Stefan rasmussen: +46 702 75 24 18

MARSTRAND........................................................................

5

Drive south from Gamleby center following the signs for Folkhögskola, turn right over the wood bridge, turn left at the exit for Västervik, after 1 km park at the turnoff on the left and follow the trail to the right. HIGHLIGHTS: Goofhead 7C+, Primitive 7C, Prophesy 7C+, Sourze 7A INFO: www.vkcenter.se, Stefan rasmussen: +46 702 75 24 18

FRUBERGET..........................................................................

Mad Rock Super Loco

5

Drive south from Gamleby centre following the signs for Folkhögskola, turn right over the wood bridge, turn right towards Västervik, park at the Fruberget nature reserve and follow the trail up the hill. HIGHLIGHTS: Caveman 7A, Collector 7A, Fat cat 6C+, Fysiologi 8A, Heat 7B, Soulfly 8B, The thing 6A+ INFO: www.vkcenter.se, Stefan rasmussen: +46 702 75 24 18

VO-STENARNA.....................................................................

5

Drive from the trainstation in Västervik southwest along S. Järnvägsgatan merging into Hornsvägen, turn right at Skyttegatan, left at Trollstigen, park and follow the path into the forest. HIGHLIGHTS: Crack 6C, Dillerium ss 8A+ INFO: www.vkcenter.se, Stefan rasmussen: +46 702 75 24 18

LILLSJÖN...........................................................................................

5

Drive from Norrköping toward Stockholm on the E4, take the exit for Åby/Katrineholm, turn left to Jursla, after 400m turn right onto Lillsjönvägen, drive up the hill and park on the left. HIGHLIGHTS: Crimpaholic 7A, Olles sloop 7B+, Perkfektionisten 7A+ INFO: www.nkk.nu, www.klatterhallen.com

BJÖRNDALEN....................................................................................

More info at www.granitbiten.com or www.madrockclimbing.com

5

Drive north from Norrköping on the E4, take the exit toward Kolmården, turn left toward Skottsätter onto Nyköpingsvägen, turn left under the E4. Drive for 1 km and turn left at Stubbetorp, drive 500m past Betlehem, park by the white cottage and walk up through the clearcut on the left. HIGHLIGHTS: Köpman wighart 7A INFO: www.nkk.nu, www.klatterhallen.com Page 2

ÖREBRO................................................................................

KÄLLBERGA..........................................................................

5

Drive north from Örebro toward Närkes Kil, 4 km after Närkes Kil turn left toward Mogetorp, drive for 1 km and park at the designated parking on the left. HIGHLIGHTS: Dreamline 7C, Maestro 7C+, Stairway to heaven 6C+ INFO: Bouldering I Närke, www.orebroklatterklubb.com

SANDSJÖBACKA.......................................................

10

Drive south from Göteborg on the 158. Fettot från rymden: After 13 km at Tllesbur turn right onto Kullaviksvägen, drive 2 km, turn right onto Kyviksvägen and park at the end of the road at the designated parking on the left. Supermongo: after 15 km at Hagryd turn left onto Hagryd Dalavägen, drive 1 km and park at the designated parking on the left. HIGHLIGHTS: Fettot från rymden 6C+, Henriks catch 7A, Slabben aude gömde 7A, Supermongo 7C INFO: www.jug.nu/gbo/

UTBY.....................................................................................

MELLBYDALEN..................................................................................

5

Drive west from Uppsala on the 55, turn right onto the 72 towards Sala. At Vänge, turn right and then directly left, then turn right onto Fibyvägen by the store. Drive across the train tracks and continue for 4 km until the road splits in Jobsbo, turn left towards Fiby Urskog. Drive for 2 km and park at the designated parking area, walk back along the road toward the blocs in the field. HIGHLIGHTS: Tottes hund 7A+ INFO: Köttsaft, tkak.mine.nu/bimbo/

FOCKSTA..............................................................................

10

Drive west from Uppsala on the 55 towards Enköping. In Säva turn right towards Focksta kvarn, after 3 km park at the designated parking on the left and walk back along the road for 200m, turn right onto the first dirt road into the forest. HIGHLIGHTS: Billy bob 7B, Journal de création 7A, Long john kalle silver 7C INFO: Köttsaft, tkak.mine.nu/bimbo/

5

Drive east from Göteborg on the E20 to the Partille exit, turn left onto Kung Göstas väg and left again onto Utbyvägen, take the second right onto Ögärdesvägen and park at PMS-teknik. follow the trail up and to the right into the forrest. HIGHLIGHTS: Norrlandsguld 6C INFO: www.jug.nu/gbo/ 10

Drive north from Lysekil on the 162. At Brodalen turn left and left again towards Svee and Fågelviken. After 4 km turn right towards Rågårdsdal, after 1.5 km turn left onto a dirt road. Park after 200m and walk back to the paved road, turn left and take the path on the left down to the water. HIGHLIGHTS: Kantra 7A+, Mon goût 7C INFO: www.jug.nu/gbo/

HÖNÖ........................................................................

FIBY......................................................................................

5

Drive east from Göteborg on the E20 to the Partille exit, turn left onto Kung Göstas väg and left again onto Utbyvägen, after 2 km turn right onto Frimästaregatan and then left at the tjunction. Park with care and follow the trail to the left. HIGHLIGHTS: La bousse ss 7C, Voodoo 7B INFO: www.jug.nu/gbo/

ULORNA................................................................................

5

Drive east from uppsala on the 282, turn right onto a dirt road directly after the tennis courts in Länna. Drive for 3 km and park at the t-junction at the start of the field, walk along the edge of the field to the blocs on the left side. HIGHLIGHTS: Deliberation 6C+, Durchfall im gesicht 7A+, Dynamische doppelpack 7A, Jaguar ss 6C+, Kashmir 6C+ INFO: tkak.mine.nu/bimbo/, Shawn Boye: +46 708 55 96 99

10

Drive west from Göteborg on the 155 to the ferry for Öckerö/Hönö. On the island turn left in the first round-about and then directly right towards Röd. Turn right onto Rödvägen and then left onto Ersdalsvägen, follow this into the forrest and park discretely where it ends. Take the trail out to the water. HIGHLIGHTS: Den gamle och havet 7B+, Travers abu garcia 6C INFO: www.jug.nu/gbo/

BRUDBERGET.......................................................................

5

Drive east from Stockholm on the 222 towards Gustavsberg, turn off towards Ingarö and drive through Brunn. After 4 km turn left towards Eknäs, after another 4 km turn left towards Östernäs by the bus stop. Turn right onto Brudbergsvägen, take the second left and park discretely at the end of the road. HIGHLIGHTS: Bagghawaghita 6C, Ballistic brothers 7C, Kalle baah 7B+, She’s a bitch 7A, Slap that fat bitch 7C+, Supercool 7C INFO: www.klaan.nu

LARSBODA.......................................................................................

LÅNGHOLMEN..................................................................................

1

Drive south from Stockholm central station on the E4, turn right towards Långholmen onto Söder mälarstrand, then turn right and go over the bridge to Långholmen, turn left and drive to the west side of the island, park and walk along the path to the blocs. HIGHLIGHTS: Houdini assis 8B INFO: www.plonk.se/snf

KOLARTORP......................................................................................

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1

Drive south from Stockholm on the 73 towards Nynäshamn, turn right towards Ågesta, then left onto Magelungsvägen, left again onto Mårbackagatan and left again onto Filipstadsbacken. Park and walk down onto the bike path. HIGHLIGHTS: Kvartersfuriren 7B INFO: www.klaan.nu

10

Drive south from Stockholm on the 73 towards Nynäshamn, turn right to Haninge centrum and park at the subway station. Walk over the tracks, across the field and into the forest. HIGHLIGHTS: Nödvändigt ont 6C, Janssons frestelse 6B+ INFO: www.bloxc.com Page 4