Le magazine anglais des Pyrénées Orientales

4 WalkTheRegion Cami de la Rodella 6

Swimming Pools

French

security

Life

Local Traditions

8 to 11

What'son

Before buying

Food&Drink

Wineclub

12 Restaurants

over the border

18

Spotlight on ...

TGV Train Jaune

20

5.DidYouKnow? 7.LocalNews 12.TestYourFrench

A selection of events from the Palais des Congrès

FREE / GRATUIT

n°11

june july

2007

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in all main PO Life is available rmarkets, airport, tourist offices, supe more details Leroy-Merlin.... for Palais des Congrès, glophone-direct.com visit our site www.an

Edito ... Bonjour !

I was recently asked why I have the same photo in my editorial every month ? Well, SHE doesn't put on any weight, and can still get into those red trousers ! I can't ! There is so much going on in the Pyrénées-Orientales once the summer season starts : the obligatory "apéro" on a balmy evening accompanied by "amuses gueules" (nibbles), wine tastings, beer festivals, absolute "must" outdoor meals with street dancing and live music, sardanes and castellers, correfocs, gégants… Dieting is really quite out of the question, so my thinner, "other self" stays on the first page watching the calories whilst I check out the food and drink and find out a little bit more about these long standing Catalan traditions ! (See page 7 to 11) Like me, P-O Life has expanded for summer but unlike me, will be restored to its former glory in September. In the meantime, have a great summer – go easy on the sun and heavy on the sun cream.

A la prochaine - Kate

SOMETHING TO SAY ...

Contact us on [email protected]

Château Valmy - On a recent trip to the

to be empty pens, a large pool of brown

PO, we decided to visit Château Valmy and

water, run down gardens, the follies looked

combine it with a walk up to the chapelle

like they had not been attended to in years

St Laurent which is above Valmy - a great

and a man made waterfall would have loo-

walk and fantastic views down onto Argelès

ked better if they had concealed the many

and the surrounding area. Unfortunately

pipes lying around everywhere.

the chapelle was closed (opens on certain days). Walk time just over 3 hours.

I do feel it lets the area down very badly; all it needs is a little care and attention and

After lunch we followed the trail around

the place would look lovely. The Château lit

the grounds. To say we were disappointed

up at night promises so much, but delivers

would be putting it mildly There seemed

so little. - Sav

Magazine gratuit Tous droits réservés Toute reproduction interdite Concepteur et rédacteur Kate Maquette MS Lang http://ms.lang.free.fr [email protected] photo couv. : MS Lang Impression : Imprimerie du Mas Tirage : 5000 exemplaires Ne pas jeter sur la voie publique

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3

Walktheregion

with Christian Piquemal

CAMI to MONTBOLO de la RODELLA

Pour faire bon ménage, il faut que l'homme soit sourd et la femme aveu gle. In a perfect couple, the man must be deaf and the woman blind

Vallespir offers a wide choice of historical trails. This one, according to legend, is related to the Saints Abdon & Sennen whose relics were brought from Rome on the back of a donkey. It is the final part of this legendary trip that makes up this month"s walk. To celebrate the two Patron Saints of Arles sur Tech, every 30th of July, a procession carries a rounded shaped candle, "la Rodella", between Montbolo and Arles. In addition to its mystic atmosphere, this trail also provides a combination of refreshing exercise and great sightseeing. Acces : Drive to Amélie les Bains and cross the residential area "la Petite Provence" on the left bank of the river Tech. Park near the gymnasium and the tennis courts. Walk : 4 Take the direction "Ribamala". After the hotel "Castel Emeraude", the track turns into a path close to the river. An oratory dedicated to the Saints Abdon & Sennen is on your way. 4 After 15 mn, when reaching the first houses of a lotissement ( housing estate), walk up the concrete steps on your right. Notice the yellow signpost "Montbolo", starting point for a steep footpath. Take your breath and go up ! You will follow painted yellow signs all the way. Your effort is rewarded by extensive views over Vallespir, from west to east : Pic de Tres Vents and the village of Corsavy, Arles sur Tech at your feet, towers of Cabrens in the far distance, the massive silhouette of Pilo de Belmatx in front, Roussillon and the coastline on the left. 4 After more or less 1 hour, you reach a crossroads. Don't take the one on the right (except if you suddenly remember an important meeting !!), it goes down to Amélie. A wooden signpost invites you to continue along a gentle shady path to Montbolo (1h45).

The village offers a place for a picnic close to the church, curiously flanked with two towers (la Rodella is kept inside). An alternative choice is the terrace of the bar-restaurant "Point d"Art" (that's if you don't mind plain traditional dishes). 4 Return to Amélie : Go down the path starting at the back of the restaurant. It crosses the tarred road several times. 10 mn later, a short detour to the big Holy Cross offers breathtaking views over the town. Back to the road, follow it for a few minutes and turn down the path (formerly used as "Chemin de Croix" by penitents). The signposts lead you back to "la Petite Provence", close to the parking place (total time : 2h45). In the next issue, don't miss our special trail for aficionados of strenuous walking. Programmes of Christian's scheduled walks in the "What's on" section of Anglophile website. Christian Piquemal invites you to join "Le Club" and benefit from special discounts on the guided walks scheduled monthly. 04 68 83 15 19 // 06 21 66 42 15 // [email protected]

Those lazy, hazy, hot days of summer are here. Do remember that a carelessly discarded cigarette or a stray ember from a barbeque can so

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easily set off a fire that can destroy lives and livelihoods.

Didyouknow?

WitchBEACH? According to a Catalan tradition, a person who wants to become a witch (bruixa) should go to the beach, take off all her clothes, roll over in the sand seven times, stand up, draw three circles, and roll around again, whilst muttering witch-like prayers and incantations. She will turn into a witch, as long as no one has seen her completing this ritual. However, if she is spotted, she will remain a mere mortal (if she has not by then been carted off by the men in their white coats !)

PetALERT! If you find your dog shaking its head violently from side to side, and pawing its ear, this could mean that it has a grass seed in its ear which, if not removed, can cause infection and even perforate the eardrum. During the months of May and June, foxtail barley and similar species of grass growing in the PO can be very harmful to your dog (and to your wallet if you have to visit the vet) as the seeds can become embedded in the ear or the paw.

HelloSAILOR! Watch out for Havaneres concerts, sea shanties brought back from Cuba by sailors in the 19th Century, telling of lost loves and faraway places, and named after the capital town of Cuba, La Habana (Havana). Accompanied by guitar and accordion, and sometimes bass, these fun songs will usually be served up with the traditional accompanying drink, ron cremat, a mixture of rum, sugar, lemon peel and coffee beans, with optional cinnamon stick, served in an earthenware bowl and flambéed to burn off the alcohol. (On the same subject, it is rumoured that the motto of the French navy is "To the water ; it is time" – in French "A l'eau, c'est l'heure". Say this quickly with "Allo Allo" accent - with special thanks to Merry for this extremely serious and sensible contribution to PO Life !)

EXPLOSIVEruins Alfred Bernhard Nobel (1833 - 1896) invented dynamite amongst other things, and left a large sum of money in his will to fund the Nobel Prizes, awarded "to those who, during the preceding year, shall have conferred the greatest benefit on mankind". Alfred set up numerous factories to manufacture and sell dynamite all over Europe, one of which he opened in 1871 at Paulilles, next to Port Vendres . The ruins of the dynamite factory can still be seen today on the left hand side of the road between port Vendres and Banyuls. The site has now been taken over by the Conseil Général who have began work to conserve the flora and fauna and turn the building into a museum, workshop and exibition centre, to be finished in 2008 .

GETthatBOTTLEopen!! Did you know that the word apéritif comes from the Latin aperio meaning to open or uncover ?

Sex,DRUGS&rock'nRoll (OK, no sex or rock'n roll involved really, but it got your attention didn't it !!) If you are going across the border into Spain (or from any country to another), and have prescription drugs and medicines with you, you should always carry the actual prescription with you in case you are searched, in order to prove that your drugs are legally acquired.

Don't forgot ... 10th Father's Day - June th 14 ly Ju Bastille Day -

leP'titBUS Do you know about the P'tit bus in Perpignan ? It is a free bus service which started up on the 30th March and runs approximately every 7 minutes from 7h45 to 12h20 and 13h15 to 19h40, every day apart from Sunday and Bank holidays. Pop into the tourist office for a plan of the route.

Overweight? If you decide to go to Le Perthus or Spain to stock up on cheap booze, bear in mind that if your car is overloaded (and there are regular controles by police and customs on the road out of Le Perthus into Le Boulou), on the spot fines of around 100€ can be levied or in extreme circumstances the car could even be seized. Check your car's manual to find the maximum recommended weight that your vehicle can take. Extra weight can affect the handling and damage your suspension, making your car unsafe.

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Frenchlife Swimming Pool Security There has been much confusion in the past surrounding the laws for swimming pool security in France. with Euro Piscine We spoke to EURO PISCINE SERVICE at Pollestres near Perpignan, who explained that all pools, whether they be private or on premises which are rented out, should now have a safety system fitted. This covers all in-ground and partially in ground pools. Failure to respect the security rules and regulations could result in a 45,000e fine and criminal charges of death by negligence, should a fatal accident occur. EURO PISCINE outlined the different kinds of security available. Pool owners have a choice of five safety systems 4 Alarms (alarmes) There are 2 main types of alarm. -> Les Alarmes d’immersions (Submerged pool alarms) Simple, cheap and easy to fit, these alarms work by sensor tubes. If a body falls into the pool, it causes an acoustic wave which in turn triggers sensors situated in the tube, and sets off the alarm sirens. However, these alarms can easily be triggered by a strong gust of Tramontane if the pool is exposed ! -> Les Alarmes periphériques (Perimeter alarms) Very swish with infrared beam which forms a perimeter "fence". However, these alarms are not recommended for pools where the owner is not in permanent residence as the alarm will sound off if the beam is interrupted by animals. -> Sonar alarms Ideal for secondary residences, as they are not set off by the wind, these alarms work with a sensor based poolside detector of 15m and can be adapted to pools up to 20x10m. A little more expensive but the best alarm option for peace of mind. Alarms do not compensate for parental supervision 4 Fencing (barrière) This must be at least 1.20m high with a child-proof opening and closing system and be installed between 1m and 3m from the edge of the pool. EURO PISCINE offer two types of fencing, the first which is removable and comes in white, green or black (particularly economical and efficient for those with young children) and the second which is more solid and permanent, more attractive too, but at a higher price.

EURO PISCINE also offers you…

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ssories and products in our 4 a wide range of pool acce games showroom, pool cleaners, heating, individual requirements 4 your choice of pool built to your ms, pumps 4 a range of different pool syste new "Sanus per Aquam" the ding 4 a selection of SPAs inclu ate in well being. (health through water) for the ultim

4 Reinforced PVC pool cover (bâche) This should have supporting bars along the sides and across the width and be strong enough to hold the weight of a child. Recommended for pools up to 10 x 5 metres – any bigger than that and you will need a big strong man (or woman !) to open and close it ! Helps to keep the water clean and conserve the heat. 4 Electric or solar energy shutters Very easy to use but not suitable for all pool shapes and not cheap ! Check with EURO PISCINE to see if these are suitable for your pool. 4 Sliding glass cover (abri) – low, medium and high. Be careful ! There are many types of "abris" on the market which can vary enormously in price. The best and easiest to use is probably the "abri télescopique" All the above should conform to the required standards and be accompanied by a "certificat de conformité". All the team at EURO PISCINE would be very happy to answer your questions, advise, or supply any further information. EURO PISCINE is part of a network of 300 qualified and experienced staff with more than 45 agencies throughout France. EURO PISCINE SERVICE is open from Monday to Saturday inclusive and is located at Pollestres in the "zone artisanale", rue Lo Pou del Gel, opposite (and a little further along from) the Intermarché.

Localnews

Travel tip - It is worth ringing ng for your credit card company before leavi your holiday destination. Increased fraud turning means that credit card companies are ing is down cards where the pattern of spend different from the norm.

POLLUTIONnightmare! Ecologically speaking, the yearly férias of Céret, Collioure and Millas are a pollution nightmare. Over a million plastic cups are thrown in bins, and to the ground, making between three and five tons of plastic waste polluting the environment of the towns concerned, and in the case of Collioure, the sea.

ORGANICproducts If you wish to eat and drink "organic", pop into your local tourist office and ask for the Carnet d'adresses bio a free booklet listing regional farms, shops and markets selling organic products from fruit and veg, to cheese, meats, oils, honey, eggs…

Too Good to be Vrai? The intended tracé or line of the Perpignan to Barcelona TGV is causing concern for residents living in the many high-rise apartment blocks along its proposed route. It seems that cracks have started appearing in walls and pavements around El Prat, on the outskirts of Barcelona, under which a tunnel is being dug. The minister of formento (public works) has demanded that an expert's report be completed to look into this damage in relation to the TGV. If it turns out that the tunnel is responsible, it could mean a serious delay to the completion of the TGV line. There are also worries for the foundations of the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi masterpiece, which is to be reinforced by a wall of concrete pillars !

PIRANHASinStEstèveLAKE! Yes, honest ! It's not April 1st. Three dead piranhas were found in March in Saint Estève Lake when it was being emptied and cleaned. It is believed that an aquarium owner may have thrown them in to the lake to get rid of them or just to cause a bit of underwater chaos, but piranhas could not have survived in the untropical temperatures of the St Esteve lake ! Carnivorous Florida tortoises have also been found there in the past so probably best not to dip your hand in the lake the next time you're in St Estève !!

Dial15

formedicalHELP

Dial 15 if you need medical treatment and the doctors' surgeries are closed. This will put you through to the Samu and medical emergency number but did you know that you can also talk to a doctor who will assess your medical problem and tell you if he or she thinks that you require emergency help ? Régul66 has 23 doctors, GPs themselves, who have volunteered (for a fee) to work a round the clock rota. They will call out the doctor on call for your section (the department is divided into 23 sections, each having a doctor on call at all times) if they feel that a visit is necessary. Incidentally, a visit will cost you 67€ (8pm – midnight and 6am – 8am and 76€ from midnight to 6am.

HGVmotorRail The 29th March 2007 was the inauguration of the first autoroute ferroviaire linking Le Boulou and Luxembourg. From the 2nd July 2007, heavy goods vehicles will be able to drive directly onto the train in the north and descend at the distribriport in Le Boulou and vice versa, eventually making a difference to the amount of congestion on our motorways, when it is fully up and running, with 15 trains per day (600 vehicles) .

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Localtraditions Llevant de taula The expression Llevant de taula literally means "dessert" - that which is placed on the table last, then taken away. During a Festa Major, the Llevant de taula is the means by which a village raises funds for the fêtes and entertainments. Strolling musicians with wind instruments (or these days floats with people in fancy dress or Catalan colours piping traditional Catalan music through speakers) travel from house to house, receiving small amounts of money to be put towards the village festivities.

Gégants Enormous painted papier-maché figures, sometimes 14 or 15 ft tall, with traditional clothing and a person inside. They usually appear in couples during the patron saint holidays (Festa Major), carnivals and parades, often as king and queen, or some important person in the history of the town. They dance in the streets with little "big-heads" or cap-grossos. c http://geants-villefranchedeconflent.chez-alice.fr/index2.htm

Correfocs A correfoc is a Catalan tradition which ensures that any festival goes with a bang ! Its meaning of "fire run" really says it all ! It consists of a parade through the streets, accompanied by loud music, bangers… a fiesta of sparklers, firecrackers, and roman candles with colles de diables, - groups of devils - who dance amongst the crowds as they play with fire and set off their fireworks, amidst a shower of sparks. Great atmosphere, great fun but can be very frightening for small children and animals. Wear a hat and clothes that will protect you from the sparks. (Although there is usually a fireman or two there to put you out if the worst comes to the worst !!)

La Sardane La Sardane, or sardana, is a traditional Catalonian circle dance, believed to be of Greek origin, designed to bring whole villages out onto the village green and get them in party mood - a little like a more complicated version of the "hokey cokey" in fact ! Music for the sardane is played by a cobla, a wind band with double bass including typical Catalan instruments tenora, tible, flabiol and tamborí, alongside trumpet, trombone, fiscorns and double bass. During his 30 year rule of Spain from the late 1940's to 1975, Franco considered the Catalan national pride and wish for independence to be arrogant and an insult to his authority. He passed a series of laws attempting to squash their traditions, language and culture. Among these laws was the banning of the Sardana. As often happens in the face of adversity, the dance soon became a powerful symbol of national unity, as folk from all walks of life, young and old, met up and proclaimed through their dancing, their pride in being Catalan, passing on this important part of Catalan culture from generation to generation.

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Castells

(Catalan for castles) A tradition which originated at the end of the 18th century in Valls, Tarragona, when rival groups of people called colles, began to compete in constructing human towers. Those who take part in these tours are called castellers (castle-makers), fearless men and women who wear traditional catalan costume and climb on to each others' shoulders to create a human pyramid, sometimes up to eight or nine storeys high and often topped off with a brave child, a bit like a cherry on a cake!

Vide-greniers (car boot sales)

Great atmosphere, hotdogs, snai ls and beer (only joking about the hotdogs !) and a chance to get rid of those unwanted bits and pieces. Rem ember: one man/woman's trash is another man's treasure. If you're a car boo t sale fan, or have items you wish to get rid of, it's well worth checking out the videgreniers around the region, whi ch take place mainly on Sunday s. Get there early if you want to get the barg ains and avoid the rush ! If you wish

to display/sell at a vide-grenier, you will normally need to register in advance to book your "emplacement" and show some proof of identity and residency (electricit y bill etc)w hen registering. More information on how to do this from the town hall or tourist office in the comm une where the vide-grenier is taking place.

JUNE Sunday 10th Olette / Osséja Saturday 16th Montesquieu Sunday 17th Thuir / Mont Louis Sunday 24th Saillagouse

JULY Sunday 1st Terrats / la Cabanasse / Saint Paul de Fenouillet Sunday 15th Estavar Saturday 21st Saint-Pierre-del-Forcats Sunday 22nd Evol / Saint-Paul-deFenouillet

Saturday 28th Ria-Sirach Sunday 29th Angoustrine AUGUST Saturday 4th Sainte-Marie Sunday 5th Mont-Louis

Céret Féria

Companion

(Compañero in Spanish or Copain in French)

14th 15thJuly

actually comes from the Latin "Companionem" meaning "one with whom you would eat bread" Con = with and Pan = bread

This yearly bullfighting festival, with Bull Run through the streets, market, bands, street entertainment and party atmosphere, is a big event in Céret and indeed in the whole of the PO, (along with the Millas and Collioure ferias which take place later in the season) but be warned. It is not for everyone ! Céret de Toros weekend attracts an enormous amount of criticism and generates heated controversy, as much for the staggering drunkenness which seems to be de rigeur on the Friday and Saturday night as the perceived animal cruelty of these bullfights to the death, which take place in the purpose built bullring just out of town. All restaurants close and food and drink, from a full meal to a burger, is on sale from the many bodegas (street bars), run by the different associations of Céret. If you don’t want to stand out from the crowd, wear the traditional féria colours of red and white.

Les and la

International Flamenco Festival 17th - 20th July

Argelès-sur-Mer

FEUX de la Saint JEAN TROBADA du Canigou The Saint Jean fire

21st 22thJune

The fifth Festival International Flamenco d’Argelès-sur-Mer will take place in the beautiful surroundings of the Parc de Valmy. This unique flamenco festival offers a programme of music and dance to delight all, along with stands and workshops during the day for those who would like to have a go! Passionate, angry, deep, joyful, expressive, plaintive - if you are not already a fan of flamenco, you will be after this!

Regional

c http://perso.orange.fr/fabien.delmau/

A lovely tradition to celebrate the Summer Solstice of St Jean around the 22nd June is the meeting of Catalans from both sides of the Pyrénées on the summit of the Canigou. Troops of walkers and representatives of villages and towns throughout Catalonia meet up on the Plateau des Cortalets, where they set up tents and prepare for a sleepless night ! The ultimate goal of the Trobada is to get up to the peak at 2,784m high, with bunches of wood to contribute to the huge bonfire prepared on the summit. This gathering is known as the Trobada (a catalan word meaning "meeting" or "reunion"). At midnight a flaming torch, kept throughout the year at the Castillet in Perpignan, is carried to the top of the mountain and used to light a bonfire which can be seen all over the Conflent. The next day, relay runners carry the flamme du Canigou down onto the plain to all the villages they pass through on the way to Perpignan and in the evening, these flames light the Focs de la Sant Joan or Feux de la Saint Jean, fires that have been prepared in towns and villages all over the region. With the arrival of the torch, and the lighting of the fires, the festivities begin. It is a night for celebration and an important symbol of the unity of the Catalan culture (Excerpt from My Life in the PO – online diary) The festival season has arrived in the Pyrénées-Orientales. Yesterday, following hot on the heels of la Fête de la musique came les Feux de la Saint Jean, a feast of fire and music. We went to the Maureillas festival - great fun, with fireworks and candyfloss but we were surprised to see a local tradition in which the children, some as young as 7 or 8, jump over the bonfire !! Lulu had a go too, wearing his nylon T shirt and nylon trainers, and we narrowly missed having Mayonnaise roasted sweetbreads for The -aise of mayonnaise actually means "nativ dinner ! They all seemed to e to" or "originating in" ; In French (eg Anglaise) enjoy it and, apart from me, nobody was the slightest bit Mahonnaise was apparently created to celebrate a anxious, as the firemen were French battle victory over the British on the Spani sh there to put the children out isle of Port Mahon if need be!

9

What'son?

Denim

de in ns was originally ma The cloth used for jea . It was called Serge di noa, Italy) Nimes, (as well as Ge ed to di Nimes, which became ten or sh er lat d an s Nime denim.

Querencias

29th - 30th June

Céret

Two days of Catalan music and dancing, featuring well known artistes and accentuating flamenco. Querencias is actually a bull-fighting term, signifying the spot in the bull arena where the bull makes his stand and prepares himself, ready to charge ! 6th - 10th June

Perpignan

Festival

Fête de l'Abricot 10th July

Rivesaltes

Rivesaltes is not only famous for its sweet fortified wine, it is also well known for its apricots. Every July, the town celebrates the fruit with a festival of apricot tasting, apricot jam, apricot eating competitions, apricot drinking (look out for the local drink abricotade), in fact all things apricot ! Add to this a general atmosphere of fun and good humour, a local produce market selling and proposing for tasting all manner of speciality, and an evening of music and dancing, and you have a superb family day out.

IDA Y VUELTA

4 days of concerts in various locations all over Perpignan, most of which are free. Festival Ida y Vuelta, literally round trip or "come and go", is a mixture of street parties, home-grown musical talent of all types and plenty of sunshine and atmosphere, spread over four days.

La Fête de la Musique

21st June

National

Every year around the summer solstice, the longest day of the year, musicians from all over the world perform free concerts in venues throughout France. The festival aims to celebrate music in all forms and is open to anyone. It all began in October 1981, when Maurice Fleuret became Director of Music and Dance. He expressed the desire to be "the director of all kinds of music, from the accordion to the recording industry". He wanted to find a way to bring people and their music out on to the streets. Three weeks later the Fête de la Musique was born. If you are in France on this day it will be hard to avoid the vibrant sounds of salsa bands parading the streets, string quartets and steel bands playing on street corners rock, pop, jazz and soul together with accordionists wandering among the crowds. Carnival atmosphere, food, drink and laughter, and music of all sorts in the bars and cafés, streets, squares and courtyards, this national festival is not to be missed.

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Canigou race

Vernet The Les Bains 5th August

At the beginning of the twentieth century, well before the introduction of fridges and freezers into the region, inhabitants of Vernet les Bains used to climb high into the mountain, and cut blocks of ice from the hillside which they loaded onto their backs in order to run back down to the village and sell. The fastest runners had the greatest chance of selling their ice. In 1905, a race was proposed by the local branch of the Alpine Club of France to honour the intrepid ice carriers. This race was to be from Vernet to the summit of the Canigou and back and competitors would have to carry a load on their back. In 1980, this mountain race was revived, and each year since then the event has been held on the first Sunday of August. The event is open to both walkers and runners and follows a circular route over a distance of 30 km, with 2,100 metres (nearly 7,000 feet) of ascent. Competitors set off from Vernet-les-Bains, pass close to the Mariailles refuge, head for the summit of the mountain, then descend to Vernet down the north slope of Canigou, past the Cortalets chalet.

Les

Jeudis de Perpignan July - August

Perpignan

Music, street theatre, jugglers, acrobats, flamenco, salsa, jazz... and late night shopping ! This is Thursday evening in Perpignan when local, national and international artistes light up the streets and the places with a sparkling mixture of colour, sound and rhythm. A weekly event throughout July and August. Sit on the café trottoir with a glass of wine and be a part of it all !

Pablo Casals festival

Prades

26th July - 13th August

Now in its 55th year, the Pablo Casals festival is one of the most respected chamber music festivals in France and, indeed, Europe, and takes place in the beautiful abbey of Saint-Michel de Cuxà and other churches in the Prades area. As you might expect from a festival named after a world famous cellist, many of the concerts focus on the cello, although there are also evenings devoted to Bach, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven and many other greats.

Les

Estivales

5th - 31st July

Perpignan

In July 2007, the Estivales, Perpignan summer festival of dance, music and theatre, will celebrate its 20th anniversary. To mark this occasion, there will be more than fourteen shows of live music, theatre and dance at the Campo Santo, including Joan Baez, Blood Wedding danced by the Compagnie Antonio Gades and many more famous acts along with « Scènes ouvertes » at the Couvent des Minimes, cinema and various other forms of entertainment. Today, the festival retains its Mediterranean flavour and colour as it opens this year with an ‘Olé’ to « Vertiges, du flamenco à la transe», a dance musical produced by Tony Gatlif with 50 artistes, a show based around the artistic and cultural aspect of the wandering gypsy..

Fête du

Babau

(pronounced ba-ba-oh)

1st August

Rivesaltes

Rivesaltes will become a pedestrian-only zone all day long for this fun festival of the Babau, legendary monster reputed to have terrorised Rivesaltes during the middle ages. Based upon the medieval legend, the «Babau», half-iguana, half-dragon, scaled the town walls and helped himself to a snack of several children. The festival relives the more dramatic moments of the tale as the Babau parades through the streets accompanied by stilt walkers, fire eaters, jugglers, brass bands and the Rivesaltes giants, Galdric Trencavent and his wife, the giantess Radegonda. At nightfall, the Babau is sacrificed - ‘put to death’ on the banks of the river Agly - in a dazzling cacophony of noise and fireworks.

Selection of events from the Palais des Congrès, Perpignan For the full programme of events for June and July, visit www.anglophone-direct or www.congresperpignan.com

Events at the PALAIS DES CONGRES Perpignan Thursday 28th - Friday 29th June - 8.30 pm Gala of Modern Jazz Création Box office opens at 7.30 pm.

Exhibitions at the PARC DES EXPOSITIONS Perpignan

Information: 04 68 64 68 56 or www.parc-expo-perpignan.com

Tuesday 12th June Julio Iglésias - 8.30 pm - Grand Hall Saturday 2nd and Sunday 3rd June / Saturday 9th and Sunday 3rd June / Saturday 16th and Sunday 17th June / Saturday 23rd and Sunday 24th June Magic Park : Bouncy castle theme park - Open: 10 am - 7 pm - Salle des Festivités.

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Foodanddrink

Restaurant reviews Just over the border…

Spanish Catalonia has some excellent cafes and restaurants from which to

John Fairclough

choose and food in Spain is a lot cheaper than France. (Meals carry only 7% VAT (IVA) as opposed to the French 19.6%). Likewise, as long as one sticks to Spanish produce, wine prices are about one third cheaper, even in plush restaurants. The Spanish (especially in Summer) like to eat a little later than the rest of Europe.The lunch “rush” doesn’t tend to start till after 1 pm, and most restaurants do not even open till 8 or even later, for evening diners. By law, Spanish restaurants have to offer a “menu del dia” (daily menu) which often includes wine and water. Here is a selection of the places I’ve been to regularly and enjoyed over the last few years.

A

fter crossing the border at LE PERTHUS, home to many cheap and cheerful tourist cafes, the first place one encounters is LA JONQUERA, a plethora of buffet, tourist and lorry driver places. Artigas, a seven day a week operation on the main road at the south of the old town, near Tramuntana garden centre is an atmospheric, low ceiling building, very Spanish, and professionally run with a great selection of meat and fish dishes. Try the Pica Pica menu at (rather like tapas) 10€, for a useful introduction to Catalan cooking. oving south, to FIGUERAS, with its vast Thursday market, I rather like Casa Pepe, on the N11 at the northern end of the bypass, opposite the large pottery place. Very friendly, family run, there is a good choice of home cooked dishes a la carte, but the menu del dia is especially good at 11€. Pepe closes on Tuesdays. urning towards the sea, there are a number of very pretty villages in the south Alberas, a wine growing area centred on Capmany and Perelada. In ST CLIMENT SESCEBES you’ll find Mas Ullastre, a converted Catalan farmhouse of rustic charm, with 21st century mod-cons, open every day except Sunday. Monthly Catalan seasonal specialities are a highlight. Further along this road in GARIGUELLA is La Vinya, a roadside steakhouse opposite a large campsite. The décor is very comfortable and its claim to fame is the choice of superb meat kept in a cooler at the entrance, so you can choose your actual T bone steak or whatever takes your fancy, after which it will be expertly grilled on the charcoal “churrasco”. ow you are nearly in ROSES. The worldwide fame of the posh El Bulli has brought gourmets flocking to this large seaside resort, and there are a number of excellent and pricey eateries on the front. In the back streets of the old town are some less

M T

N 12

expensive places ranging from Tapas to Chinese. I have always liked Del Moll, rather out of the centre down by the fishing port. It has an upstairs panoramic dining room, with superb vistas of the port and beyond to the Bay of Roses and the Pyrenees. As you’d expect, fish is king here. arrying on round the bay, via EMPURIABRAVA, you’ll reach L’ESCALA. This pretty spot again has plenty of tourist restaurants and pizzerias, to suit every taste and pocket, but I head for the port and La Llar dels Pescadors. From the outside this modern building looks more at home on an industrial estate, but do not be put off. As the name implies it is the haunt of the fishing community, and I can say that the Dover Sole I had there recently was the best I’d ever tasted anywhere. The daily menu at 7€ including drinks is incredible value. etracing our steps up the coast towards France again, EL PORT DE LA SELVA is worth a visit, with its spectacular scenery, dark brooding St Pere Rodes monastery overlooking the town, and family friendly gently shelving beach. The choice of places to eat here is a little more restrained, but there are a couple of places on the right as you enter the centre of the town. I like the Bellavista. The 12€ set menu is particularly good, with mains being a choice of tender entrecote, an authentic paella, or a plateful of fried small local fish, which in the evenings you can see being landed and taken to the nearby auction. I hope this short guide is of use to those of you who venture “over the border». If you come across any other gems during your travels, I’m always keen to hear, so post them on the forum on www. anglophone-direct.com or email us on info@anglophone-direct. com.

C

R

r people who "I feel sorry fo up hen they wake don’t drink. W ’re ey th as ’s as good at th , ng ni or m ra in the l day." Frank Sinat going to feel al

Recommendations fromourPOWINEforum

More wine recommendations and advice on www.anglophone-direct.com

Domaine de Vezian (Toulouges/Pezilla) "Tried both rosé and red - both excellent, especially the red. Very smooth !" 2-3e

Wineclub Whining women According to English wine journalist Jancis Robinson, more and more women are occupying traditionally male jobs in the wine industry such as wine makers and sommeliers, writers and industry experts. It seems that women have more sensitive palates than men and a more open minded approach to wine, making them more receptive to new or unknown varieties. I’ll certainly drink to that ! The following appeared on various

Pull the udder one wine websites on April 1st 2007

Japanese "Sake Cows" produce wine gene - 01-Apr-2007 Scientists in Japan claim to have discovered a gene which simulates the effects of yeast fermentation inside the udders of "Sake "We’ve just discovered a great winery on the road to Cows" enabling them to produce the base ingredients Trouillas. It’s the Mas de Deu (great history, originally for wine. The wonders of genetic engineering the first Knights Templars’ commanderie in the Would you like to be allow scientists to replace the gene for making region). The wine is organic (not obligatorily a a virtual vigneron? lactose with an artificial gene that produces pure badge of quality) and their dry white (cuvee Chloe) Find out how in the alcohol. Although the process is in its infancy and sweet white wines (Rivesaltes Macabeu & August edition of the implications for the wine industry are huge. Muscat de Rivesaltes) are superb. The red (vintage Should Dr Sakegami’s research come to fruition PO Life 2004) is good but will need ageing a bit. The owner (or fermentation if you will) we could see the first speaks English." commercially produced wine from a mobile vineyard within 15 to 20 years. The news is sure to promote backlash amongst animal Domaine du Mas Rous Cotes du Roussillon rouge 2001 rights activists and traditional alcohol producers in equal measure. "Lovely spicy aroma with berry fruit and herbs too. Great fruit on palate and noticeable black pepper. I loved this wine at first but Wine tip after a couple of hours it developed an oxidised Port-like aroma. My advice - drink it quickly !" (7-8e Auchan) If you want to linger over your white in the summer, invest in one of these gel-filled sleeves which you put in the freezer and then wrap round your bottle. They work well.

Mas de Deu

Wine Quiz WIN a BOTTLE of WINE

The first person with 4 correct answers will win a bottle of Domaine Treloar wine (your choice) upon visiting their cave in Trouillas any Monday or Thursday afternoon – (Tel : 04 68 95 02 29 or visit www.domainetreloar.com )

1. Which of the following is NOT a "named" Cotes du Roussillon-Villages ? a) Lesquerde b) Tautavel c) Maury d) Caramany 2. Which of the following Rock Stars does NOT own a vineyard ? a) Sting b) Bob Dylan c) Cliff Richard d) Mick Hucknall

3. Which of the following grape varieties is NOT allowed for Cotes du Roussillon rouge ? a) Syrah b) Grenache c) Cabernet Sauvignon d) Carignan 4. Which of the following books is about an English Winemaker in France a) The Grapes of Ralph b) The Ripening Sun c) Virgil’s Vineyard d) Walking Over Lemons

Your questions

answered by PO oenologist & vigneron Jonathan Hesford [email protected]

Certain wines give me a headache, others don’t ? (And I’m not talking about overindulging !!) Why is this ? There are a number of chemicals and tannins present in red wines that aren’t in white ones. This is why it is often cited that red wines cause more headaches/allergic reactions than white. The best advice I’ve ever received is get to know which ones affect you. Then avoid them ! Personally I think it has more to do with your condition at the time of drinking than the wine - too much sun, dehydrated, atmospheric pressure, blood-sugar level…

Answers to "Wine vocab" PO Life n°10 1f 2g 3c 4i 5h 6j 7b 8e 9d 10a

13

TestyourFrench Match up the définitions accès ou passage payant

1

a

glace

établissement de jeu

2

b

casino

le temps à venir

3

c

loi

eau à l’état solide

4

d

avenir

dans un autre endroit

5

e

collation

règle imposée par une autorité

6

f

écho

répétition d’un son par réflexion

7

g

péage

un petit snack

8

h

ailleurs

Répetez cinq fois !

Virelangue

Ces chaussette

s sont chouette

1

s

Language tips 4 In French, we use a double negative to express NOT. Think of the two words NE….PAS as two slices of bread to make up a sandwich. The filling is the VERB of the sentence. Je NE sais PAS vous NE parlez PAS Anglais? Le restaurant N’est PAS ouvert 4 Where more than one verb is involved, the ‘bread’ goes around the first verb

Put the following sentences into the negative : 2

Je NE suis PAS allé à Perpigan ce matin Je NE veux PAS partir

1. J’aime manger les escargots 2. Il boit trop de vin! 3. Nous avons acheté beaucoup de fromage 4. Il fait beau aujourd’hui 5. Je peux venir boire l’apéro chez vous ce soir

Faux amis :

choose the correct definition

Match the idiomatic sayings

4

1.Blesser a) Pray b) Injure

4. Avertissement a) Warning b) publicity

2. String a) Thong b) Washing line

5. Acompte a) Deposit b) account

3. Attendre a) To be present b) To wait

3

tomber dans les pommes

1

a

to play truant

vouloir, c’est pouvoir !

2

b

where there’s a will, there’s a way !

à tout à l’heure

3

c

let’s get back to business

tabasser quelqu’un

4

d

to faint

sauve qui peut !

5

e

like father, like son

revenons à nos moutons

6

f

to bear a grudge against someone

sécher les cours

7

g

every man for himself!

avoir une dent contre quelqu’un

8

h

to draw lots

tel père, tel fils

9

i

see you later

tirer au sort

10

j

to beat someone up

An/année Both mean «year,» but they indicate different ways of looking at the year. In general (but remember there are always exceptions to every rule) “an” applies to the division of time (eg J’ai passé un an à Paris) whereas “année” indicates length or amount of time spent (eg il travaille à Perpignan toute l’année). Several other pairs work in the same way: Test your French jour - journée - day PO Life n°10 matin - matinée - morning soir - soirée – evening 1 1f 2c 3j 4d 5h 6i 7b 8e 9a 10g Fill in the blank with the correct word 5 1. Je suis fatigué ce soir/soirée 2 1b 2b 3a 4c 5b 2. Nous avons passé une jour/journée intéressante 3 1f 2j 3h 4e 5g 6b 7i 8c 9a 10d 3. J’ai 21 ans/années

Answers to '

14

'

15

AméliorezvotreAnglais Remlissez les blancs avec une couleur

Répetez cinq fois ! Tongue tw ister

1

pour compléter les expressions suivantes. 1. ----- herring - une diversion 2. to catch ------–handed - attraper en flagrant délit 3. once in a ---- moon – une fois toutes les 36 du mois 4 ----- area - ambigu 5 tickled ------ - heureux 6 ----- tape- la paperasse 7 ------lie – un petit mensonge Trouvez

Completez les phrases avec le bon adjectif pour compléter ces comparaisons connues 2 As ___ as a bat. As ___ as a bee. As ___ as a mule. As ___ as an eel. As ___ as a feather As ___ as a fox. As ___ as the hills. As ___ as a mouse quiet – slippery – busy – stubborn – blind – old – cunning - light

Fat frogs flyin

g past fast

4 Le saviez-vous ? PIN est un acronyme pour Personal Identification Number

la définition de ces abréviations d’usage courant

AKA

1

a

c’est à dire

ASAP

2

b

absent sans prévenir

i.e.

3

c

société anonyme

Ltd

4

d

connu sous le nom de…

AWOL

5

e

dès que possible

Put these instructions for making a perfect 4 cup of tea into the right order 1. Add milk and sugar if required 2. Enjoy your cuppa 3.Pour the tea into the cup 4.Bring the kettle to the boil 5.Fill the kettle with fresh water 6.Put the tea in the teapot. 7.Leave the tea to brew for five minutes 8.Warm teapot with hot water and pour away 9.Pour the boiling water into the teapot

3

... et les voilà Also Known As As Soon As Possible id est. (that is) Limited Absent Without Official Leave

4 Do or make ? Do - quand on parle d’une activité sans la préciser ou pour parler d’un travail Make - exprime souvent une idée de création, ou de construction Attention : Beaucoup d’expressions utilisant do ou make ne se traduisent pas par faire en Français – ce sont des structures idiomatiques Eg : You make me sad – vous me rendez triste It has nothing to do with you. - Cela ne vous regarde pas 4 To make ... a mess a noise an appointment a complaint make enquiries make fun of someone make a fuss make a mistake

4 To do ... housework a favour do your duty do damage do harm

Réponses d'Améliorez votre Anglais PO Life n° 10



16

1

mice, cherries, sheep, sons-in-law, teeth, scissors, crises, fish, wolves, people

2

1i 2j 3h 4d 5f 6e 7b 8c 9g 10a

3

1let 2make 3make 4let 5let 6make

4

1c 2d 3b 4a

4 Do or make ? 5 1. He ____ an excellent job at the meeting last week. (did/made) 2. What are we going to ____ this evening? (do/make) 3. Please stop ___ so much noise! (doing/making) 4. I didn’t win the race but I ______ my best (did/made) 5. I would like to _____ a complaint! (do/make)

Toptipsfromourforum G &T anyone?

French in» comes from the The English word «g er,») the berry which ning «junip word genièvre, (mea tinctive, bitter flavour its gives gin dis

ON… the roundabout near Auchan… "We have given the roundabout near Auchan a nickname - Suicide Roundabout. Very useful when you want to give people directions as everyone knows it."… "When showing a friend around Perps, when we came up to this roundabout, I can remember saying "don’t use your indicators, they just regard it as a sign of weakness""… "Never try to jump onto the roundabout in front of a huge truck, a broken down rusty local "artisan" camion, a more beaten up junky-looking "saloon" car than yours - or any car with a Russian number plate !"…"keep in the correct lane. And avoid going at mid-day if at all possible : hungry people are aggressive - especially men !"

On… Public transport from local airports… "A little Navette operated by Les Courriers Catalans - not much more than a mini-bus really, pulls up right outside the main entrance of Perpignan airport. There is a bus timetable in the main arrivals/departure. Basically they run every hour or so and are supposed to link in with incoming/outgoing flights. Journey time to Perpignan bus station and rail station approx 15 minutes.". . . "4.50 each way, arrives on time, very pleasant lady driver with amusing bilingual banter.". . . "I took a train from Girona to Elne. It was all very straight forward. Buses from the GRO aiport to Girona centre appear to leave at 30 mins past the hour, every hour, from 5 a.m. until midnight.". . . (operated by Sagales) The bus journey takes approximately 20-25 minutes and costs €2.50 one way. The bus stop is located outside arrivals. Alternatively, there is a taxi rank outside arrivals. A taxi to Girona takes approximately 15-20 minutes and costs €20-25.". . . "The worst bit about the train journey is having to change trains either at Portbou or Cerbere - the French and Spanish timetables don’t dovetail so, more often than not, the Spanish train gets in just after the French one has left. (Spent a very boring 90 minutes in Cerbere station). ". . .."We have used the airport bus to the bus station in gerona - no problems - then walk across the concourse to the train station. Cost is about 7 euros single. The only problem is the delay at the border though there is a reasonable cafe at Port Bou station. Interestingly this is one of the only border crossings where we have always had our documents checked. "

On… Shopping in Spain "If you smoke, drink whisky etc, drive a diesel car and like the odd meal out, things are significantly still a good deal cheaper in Spain, but the gap is certainly narrowing. If you need quality goods, clothes, cheese etc, stick to France." . . . "I made the best savings in Spain for trees and shrubs. There’s a company called Monet. It’s tough to find - between Figueras and Girona but towards the coast. They have two stores and you can find larger bushes at a reasonable price. Compared with France, this shop is about 1/3 to 1/2 off the similar product. When you plant a garden, this is the place to visit.". . . "The Wine Palace - Wow. What a good place to visit. I like Spanish wines, so this is worth driving down to Figueras. The big olives and the hams and sausages are great too. Needless to say their piece de resistance is the choice of Spanish wines from all over the country, but the thing I cannot explain is their small, yet well-chosen selection of French wines which are cheaper than here in France. I’m not a huge fan of liqueurs, but it is fascinating to look round their section with the incredible array of different coloured gooey liquids of all colours and hues. Is there any fruit/ veg that they DON’T make liqueur out of !? I especially like the Chinese one with a dead lizard in the bottle."

And on …. Driving down (or up) from Calais "We regularly come by the Autoroute Méridienne (A71) via Clermont Ferrand and Millau. We always find the route quiet and there are lovely views as you pass through the Auvergne. Definitely recommend it. And you can miss out the horrors of the Péripherique in Paris (not for the faint-hearted) by going from Calais to Rouen and then south via Evreux and Chartres to Orleans where you pick up the A71. Rouen, Chartres and Orleans are all worth a stop-off although we visited them one each trip otherwise it would have taken too much time. " “We have tried all the routes over the years, and I agree that the Clermont Fer/Millau option,with the Paris avoiding AbbevilleRouen- Orleans bit at the start is a fair compromise of distance v less traffic v low péage charges v speed. The one we like least is the Troyes/Dijon/Lyon option. It is MILES further, very pricey, and Lyon is as bad as Paris (at least it has been every time we’ve done it !!) “As my family lives in Boulogne sur Mer, I go and visit them using the A20 i.e via Carcassonne, Toulouse, Limoges...i think it’s cheaper than via A75 (Millau) and the traffic is fine, not like via Lyon, well known for its traffic jams.

17

Before buying property in the Roussillon Some food for thought …

by Lewis Gunn

What makes a desirable "résidence secondaire" may not be any good as a permanent home. What are you buying and why ? Are you intending to let the property ? Potential clients may not be prepared to live with inconveniences that don’t bother you. 4 What sort of neighbourhood do you want to live in ? Maybe you want to be tucked away up a cart track ! Take a look through the phonebook for the commune. Are there a lot of foreign names ? You may or may not relish living in an area where the neighbours are predominantly non-French. 4 What proportion of the houses in the neighbourhood are holiday homes ? In summer registration plates on cars give a good indication. A lively village in the summer may die come winter. 4 Seen in warm summer sunshine all sorts of places look attractive. The rest of the year may be a different story. Is the terrace/swimming pool sheltered from the Tramontane ? If not, there could be periods of time when it is completely unusable. Do the trees have a definite lean, are windbreaks a local feature ? 4 What can you tell about your prospective neighbours ? Are they the kind of people you would choose to live among in your country of origin ? Your dream house may appear to be an oasis of calm during the day. But it may be very different at night or the weekends, particularly if it is situated near a café, salle de fête, boules area, chiming church clock… 4 What happens if you fall ill ? Is there a doctor/dentist locally ? How far to the nearest clinic/hospital ? Where is the closest ambulance service ? 4 Are there buses, to where and how frequently. How far to the rail network ? 4 Will you be totally dependent on your car for transport ?What would happen if you were without it for any reason ? If you don’t have your own off street parking where will you park ? Where will

18

your visitors park ? In popular locations this can be a real headache in the summer. Is there somewhere to keep your car securely ? 4 Are there permanent neighbours, how close ? The risk of burglary is very real, especially of properties in preponderantly holiday home neighbourhoods. If you buy a property and have a phone installed, consider not having your number listed. France Telecom doesn’t promote the service but do provide it and it’s free. The best current option is the Liste Chamois. The "annuaire" (phone directory) is a thief’s best friend as subscribers are listed by commune. If you feel you must be listed get France Telecom to give you a truncated entry. eg Name and commune only. Their willingness to provide this service seems to vary from one department to another. 4 Will your new house be on the phone ? If not, is there a phone box nearby (they are getting rarer). Do mobile phones work – coverage is often poor in rural areas. French mobiles are horrendously expensive ! Is an internet connection needed ? Can the local phone network meet your needs ? 4 Make sure you know who is selling the property and why. Remember the three D’s. Death, Divorce and Debt tend to lead to complications and delays. The Land Registry (Cadastre) records are available at the Mairie and are open to public inspection. To identify the property you want to buy all you need is the plot number(s). Copies of the records may be free or you might have to pay a nominal amount. If you re-sell the property in the short term you will be liable for capital gains tax.

Featured Properties from private sellers For more info, or to feature your property on this page, please contact [email protected] Le Boulou A tastefully & entirely renovated village house over 4 floors by an English registered artisan to French regulations. The house incorporates a separate garage, fully fitted kitchen, 4 Bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 cloakroom and a roof terrace. This house has been finished to a high standard with fully restored varnished wooden shutters and doors. The property is located in the town centre ideal for local shops, car parking and other amenities. Price : 210,000 e

Arles-sur-Tech A large, fully air-conditioned villa that sleeps 10 with its own private pool (9m x 5m) and large sun terrace. Fantastic location with spectacular views. 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 3 terraces. Fully enclosed garden / grounds with Mediterranean plants, flowers and fruit trees, (orange, cherry, pear, olive). Private, off-road, gated parking for one car plus 4 Car Garage. Located on the outskirts of the village of Arlessur-Tech in a quiet residential area backing onto open countryside, it is a short walk to village with all amenities. Spectacular scenery, lots to do, and close to Spanish border and Mediterranean beaches 45 mins. Less than an hour to Perpignan airport. Price : 650,000 e

Reduced rate VAT

for your renovation projects

Did you know that most renovation and building works and materials for renovation are subject to VAT (TVA) at only 5.5% as opposed to 19.6% on all other building work ? Of course, this can make an enormous difference to the total cost of work. The reduced rate applies to most renovation or improvement of an existing property (fitted kitchens and bathrooms, heating, air con, aerials, loft conversion, some garden works…) The reduced VAT rate does NOT apply to : 4 new builds (properties over two years old) 4 Extension leading to a newbuild (where more than one third of the gros œuvres - foundations or supporting walls - are renovated) 4 Building where the existing height changes. (ie if you were to add another level, tax would apply at 19.6%) 4 "luxury" additions, such as a swimming pool This reduced VAT only applies to registered tradesmen and builders. If you do the work yourself, you will of course pay 19.6% VAT on all materials. This means that if materials and supplies represent a large part of the total cost of your project, it can actually be cheaper to pay someone to do the work than to do it yourself ! It is always worth checking out both options. All emergency repairs (a plumber for burst pipes, a locksmith in case of theft...) benefit from the reduced rate, no matter what 19 the age of the building.

Spotlighton...

TGV

Le Perpignan - Barcelona in 50 mins

The creation of a new TGV (train à grande vitesse) line between Perpignan and Barcelona via le Perthus will make the journey so much faster and easier between France and Spain for both tourists and freight. At the moment, the journey time between the two towns is 2h45 - the expected time once the TGV is completed is 50 minutes ! Although the offical "début" for the opening of the line is February 2009, the trains are expected to start running well before that to test them out for the general public. Two years away from that day in 2009 when the first train from Barcelona should enter Perpignan, the constant road works and land torn up has become so much a part of the scenery in the Pyrenees Orientales that one hardly even notices any more. The 45 km between Perpignan and Figuères have proved particularly challenging - 8.3km straight through the Albères - and not so cheap at a mere billion euros !

The Route PERPIGNAN Le Soler Toulouges Ponteilla Villemolaque Banyuls-des-Aspres Tresserre Montesquieu Le Perthus La Jonquera L’Estrada Bosquero Biure Llers Figueres BARCELONA

20

The Facts 4 In order for the TGV to achieve

speeds of 350 km/hour, it must run on a special line, a LGV (ligne à grande vitesse) which must be straighter than a normal train track. 4 The section of the TGV line going from Perpignan to Figueres (or rather Le Soler - Llers) will be known as the section internationale on this LGV (ligne à grande vitesse) and is being constructed by a private company TP Ferro, branch of the Spanish group ACS, whilst the other part of the track is being built by the French Eiffage group, owner of the company founded by Gustave Eiffel, builder of the Eiffel Tower, and builders of the Millau viaduct. 4 Along the 25km of the track which will be known as la plateforme de France (from Le Soler to the tunnel at Montesquieu), there will be 39 viaducts, tunnels, bridges... in other words,

some kind of construction every 400m approximately. 4 Part of the contract states that all building work and subsequent construction should be landscaped and planted, so that the region does not continue to resemble a building site ! Particular care has been taken in some areas to preserve the environment, for example in Toulouges where two large oaks have been replanted elsewhere, as they are home to large long-horned beetles. 4 Spanish trains drive on the right, French trains drive on the left ! This has been solved by a saut de mouton (a sheep leap ?), one around Tresserre and another between Le Soler and Toulouges, which allows the Spanish trains to leave the LGV and change to a French link line until the LGV is completed on to Montpellier. 4 On the French side of the Alberes tunnel, 1.4 million square metres of earth were moved and more than 200 tons of explosives used to break through 800,000 square metres of rock. 4 The main road most affected by the TGV is the RD618 - Argeles to Le Boulou. 4 The light at the end of the tunnel is expected by the end of this summer (2007) when the first of the tunneliers should break through the final rock layers of the Alberes into France. The two tunneliers, called Tramontana and Mistral, do not move quite as quickly as their namesakes ! 4 Work has proceded more quickly on the Spanish side due to the fact that the Spanish are not terribly bothered to whom the land belongs - according to the DUP (Déclaration d’utililité publique), once it has been appropriated by the public services, Spanish land owners do not really have a say in the disposal of their land whereas the French have to comply with permissions, land sale etc

Une locomotive rencontre un TGV et lui demande : - ça fait longtemps que tu as arrêté de

fumer ?

Le

Petit Train Jaune

de Cerdagne

Le petit train jaune was built at the beginning of the century in order to link the towns and villages high up in the mountains with Perpignan and Prades, the principal administrative towns. It links Villefranche-de-Conflent with la Tour de Carol and is 63 km long, made up of wooden compartments with bench seating. It is the highest railway track in France with the highest SNCF station and the views are stunning as you pass over the viaducts ; Séjourné (named after the chap who built it) and the Pont Gisclard, built 80m high overlooking a precipice Its braking system is unique in the world, being the first train to have used electricity. These "aéro-statiques" brakes use electrical current and stop the train by electro-magnetism : the heat created by this friction is dissipated by enormous elements underneath the machine which are cooled by air. The brakes of course are rather important as the downward run is particularly steep between Olette et Saillagouse, so there are three separate braking systems. Despite the steepness of the return journey, there has never been an accident apart from the day of the train’s first run in 1910 ! Ooops ! Not the smoothest train journey in the world - in fact, if you get talking to the friendly driver, he may tell you with a smile that you

are travelling on the TGV – Train a Grande Vibration! The line is a single track and the trains can only pass each other at certains stations (Olette, Fontpédrouse, Mont-Louis, Odeillo, Saillagouse, and Bourg-Madame) so the driver has to check by radio with the control centre in Villefranche and obtain permission to leave each station ! The line leaves Villefranche-de-Conflent, goes up through the Tet gorges to Mont Louis and crosses over

c JCR

the col de la Perche into Cerdagne. It passes FontRomeu, descends towards Saillagouse, Osséja, Bourg-Madame, Ur, and finishes in Latour-deCarol where passengers can link up with the "Transpyrénéen" (ParisToulouse-Barcelone). It goes through 19 tunnels and over 2 viaducts and is a fabulous day out ; particularly on a hot day when you are looking for a bit of cool mountain air.

c pnrpc-J. Bussière

stand someone up Poser un lapin – to , snif !) th century (il m’a posé un lapin inates from the 19 ig or y all tu ac n sio This expres r her favours, the fusal to pay a lady fo when it described re ple is "voyager en ent ! Another exam ym pa e th g in be it rabb w away. thout paying or to sto wi l ve tra to – " in lap

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English speaking services international code +33

Do you want to appear in our directory ? Contact us !

Architects ArtetrA - Perpignan Bed & Breakfast / Gîtes Le Vieux Rosier - St Laurent de Cerdans - [email protected] Penny & Mike Statham - Villefranche de Conflent - www.fuilla66.com Builders & Decorators Ian Rye -builder - Elne IGC - Camélas Saper - painting and decorating - Amélie les Bains P. H. Insulations - plaques de platre-Plasterboards - Ceret Double glazing KC Windows - doors, windows, insect blinds, shutters Education and translation Suzan Ramond - French / English language services Eliane Morley - Le Boulou Lucie Grimal - Vallespir Idiomatic Language Service - Perpignan - marenostrum@idiomatic Estate agency Cepage immobilier - www.cepage-immobilier.com - Rivesaltes Cyprimmo - [email protected] Richard Immobilier - Céret Insurance Générali - Perpignan Plumbers/Electricians Robert Morley-plumber/electrician-Le Boulou Pools, accessories and maintenance Europiscine - Pollestres Property and Project management TPM - Maureillas Ceret Associates - Ceret - [email protected] Sky TV installation CS Services Taxi Leny Montoya - Maureillas

Moving stories ...

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Being Blunt with your Business

Blunt Communications, a PR company set up by husband and wife team, CJ and Jim Brough, has recently moved from London to PortVendres. Since the company was working out of their home and clients rarely needed to meet face to face, they thought "why put up with the traffic, expense, pollution and crime of London when all of the benefits of the south of France were just a two hour flight away ?" Arriving on 1st January this year, CJ and Jim, a corporate lawyer, 22 have kept all of their clients they came out with, and have even received some support from unexpected quarters. "The journalists

that we speak to are all 100% behind our move. We’re not sure if it is totally altruistic, since many of them then ask if they can write up our story for their various publications !" said CJ.

Blunt Communications

The straight talking PR agency 020 8123 4193 www.BluntCommunications.com

04 68 83 06 10

Who to contact in case of

EMERGENCY ?

SAMU (medical emergency). . . . . . 15 Police emergency. . . . . . . . . 17 Fire service emergency. . . . . . 18 European emergency line. . . . . 112 directory enquiries. . . . . . . . . . . 118 008 International directory enquiries. . . . . . . 32 12

Subscribe to PO Life magazine I would like to receive PO Life at the address below. (six issues per year) Please find enclosed a cheque for 20 e (postage and package) for one year's subscription made payable to Anglophone-direct. name (please print) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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address . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Local weather forecast. . . . . . . . . . . 08 36 68 02 66

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GDF (gas problems). . . . . . . . . . . . 08 10 43 30 66 EDF (electricity problems) . . . . . 08 10 333 066 SOS Doctor 24/24 . . . . 08 20 20 41 42 Emergency vet . . . . . 04 68 55 55 83 Anti-poison center. . . 04 91 75 25 25

post code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . email . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . signature

Perpignan hospital. . . 04 68 61 66 33 You can use the The European emergency number 112 in any EU country from any telephone. You do not need a card or money to ring this number from a pay phone. 112 may also be used from a mobile to connect you with all emergency services..

Return this form to Anglophone-direct, chemin du Mas Fourcade, 66480 Maureillas

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