PRESSBOOK
VOGUE, FRANCE FEBRUARY 2016
COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE, FRANCE FEBRUARY 2016
COLLECTION SS16
ELLE, US FEBRUARY 2016
COLLECTION SS16
LES INROCKS, FRANCE JANUARY 2016
COLLECTION SS16
LES INROCKS, FRANCE JANUARY 2016
COLLECTION SS16
STYLIST, FRANCE DECEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
STYLIST, FRANCE DECEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
DAZED, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW14
DAZED, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW14
DAZED, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW14
VOGUE PARIS, FRANCE DECEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
JALOUSE, FRANCE DECEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW14
L’OFFICIEL, GERMANY JANUARY 2016
COLLECTION SS15
ASSISTANT, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
VOGUE COLLECTIONS, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE, PORTUGAL NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
i-D, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
SCHON.COM, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
SOEN TOKYO, JAPAN NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
Styling by Benjamin Brouillet
134 — 135
Fringe
Photography by François Pragnère
On the this page
opposite
belt by J.W.Anderson
Eslami, trousers by Vetements and
BARBARA wears bodysuit by Yasmine
jumpsuit by Junko Shimada and hat by Larose
GWENOLA wears top by Wanda Nylon,
PYLOT MAGAZINE, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
SATELLITE, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
GRAZIA.FR, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
LA TENDANCE ANDROGYNE A la différence qu’à l’époque, aucune fille ne se ressemblait. “Eve était à part, mais Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow, Naomi... chacune avait sa personnalité et sa place”, poursuit Stéphane Gaboué. C’est tout l’inverse aujourd’hui où, quand il n’y a pas une sensation générale de mimétisme, on a l’impression d’avoir vu les mêmes filles partout ailleurs. “Jusqu’à présent, la mode avait tendance à choisir des filles qui avaient toutes le même visage. Mais quand on a le même line-up que tout le monde, on ne raconte plus rien”, se désespère Johanna Senyk, fondatrice du label Wanda Nylon qui a bousculé à Paris le “fash pack” lors de la dernière semaine de la mode. Parmi son casting de personnalités, on comptait Tamy Glauser, top suisse de 30 ans qui électrise les catwalks avec son allure tomboy. La belle androgyne, qui a également conquis le coeur de Nicolas Ghesquière puisqu’elle défile pour Louis Vuitton depuis deux saisons, correspond à cette nouvelle attirance pour des filles qui, sans forcément venir de casting de rue, sentent l’underground. Mannequin depuis seulement trois ans, la Suisse, qui défile aussi bien pour l’homme que pour la femme, n’a d’ailleurs jamais caché son homosexualité : “Des filles et des cigarettes” : deux choses dont elle ne peut se passer, comme elle le confiait en juillet au magazine i-D. “Je me fiche de la sexualité des filles qui défilent pour moi. En revanche, j’ai constaté qu’il y a une vraie attitude de liberté chez les lesbiennes. Elles ont très souvent une personnalité frontale très forte et très affirmée”, soutient Johanna Senyk. Faire défiler Tamy permet d’envoyer un message autre, un discours de marque que l’on remarque parce qu’il est différent. “Booker des filles avec de la personnalité, c’est le mot d’ordre que se repassent tous les directeurs de casting en ce moment”, confirme Stéphane Gaboué. LA QUÊTE ABSOLUE DE LA NEW FACE Et si, pour l’instant, tout le monde n’est pas disposé à prendre le risque de miser sur des gueules de femmes fortes, l’alternative est de révéler la fille que personne n’a encore vue. Celle qui est encore vierge de tout défilé, qui a une histoire ou un physique original. Belle ou pas, on ne se pose même plus la question. Mais on est prêt à prendre du temps pour la trouver. L’époque des castings de rue, où l’on s’asseyait à la terrasse d’un café en attendant que passe la perle rare, est pourtant révolue. Aujourd’hui, une maison pionnière sur ces questions comme Saint Laurent s’attache à construire un casting sur mesure pour lequel Hedi Slimane et ses équipes voyagent partout dans le monde, en n’hésitant pas à booker certaines filles longtemps à l’avance, et à les payer cher pour s’assurer qu’elles ne défileront pas pour d’autres. “Cette technique de l’exclusivité, lancée par la directrice de casting Maida et qui consistait à révéler une “new face”, est devenue commune”, soutient Elodie Le Goff, responsable du casting pour Wanda Nylon. Tout le monde veut sa “new face”. Et si son avenir n’est plus dans la rue, il est peut-être digital. Instagram est, après tout, la vitrine de toutes les individualités.
COLLECTION SS16
SCHON MAGAZINE, UK NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
AIR FRANCE MADAME, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15 x APERLAI
AIR FRANCE MADAME, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15 x APERLAI
V MAGAZINE.COM , US NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
FASHION SNAP.COM, JAPAN OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
L’OFFICIEL, NETHERLANDS OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
L’OFFICIEL, NETHERLANDS OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
VOGUE PARIS, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
GRAZIA, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
NUMERO, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
L’OFFICIEL HOMMES, GERMANY NOVEMBER 2015
Deutsch
№ 03 Herbst 2015 № 03 Herbst 2015 JÄGER & SAMMLER
Wir sind raus
JONAS NAY MODEHERBST BIKER FESTIVAL SNEAKERSCHÄTZE PAUL McCARTNEY DUFTDESIGN TIM BURTON SELFIE ART
Jäger & Sammler
6 Euro
Man sitzt viel zu wenig am Meer. Beste Begleitung, um das zu ändern: Outfits mit Military- und Workwear-Touch fotos BRUNA KAZINOTI fashion editor ISABELLE THIRY
COLLECTION FW15 LOH_0315_FASHION_formfunction_LITHO.indd 46
2
VOGUE, SPAIN NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW14
HARPER’S BAZAAR, SPAIN NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15 x APERLAI
PARISIEN, FRANCE NOVEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15 X AGNELLE
BRENT TAALUR.COM - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
Fashion Week can be a time of excited discovery or, on the other side of the spectrum, a saddening expression of misled inspirations. Every show poses the equal chance for an innovation-induced high or a long-awaited rush for the exit. This season I returned to Paris Fashion Week for a closer look at the latest designer collections; and here are my notes on the ones I loved the most from the Spring/Summer 2016 runway.
^ WANDA NYLON Sparks were flying at Wanda Nylon’s spring runway — literally. As the show started with the bright flickers from a welder and his tools, the rundown infrastructure of a building currently under renovation seemed appropriate as the setting for creative director Johanna Senyk’s debut runway show. Having launched the label in 2012, this is the first time we’re seeing Senyk at PFW, but it was well worth the wait. Similar to the building where she presented her spring collection, the designer and her label are an antithesis to modern fashion, straying away from the bourgeois of French fashion shows and demonstrating the new French femininity. A genre of womenswear garments where the label’s traditional focus on water-repelling fabrics fuse with a distinct sportswear edge, this season’s collection explored Senyk’s design aesthetics with an invigorated grey jersey dress with cutout back, an essential trench and the powerhouse jumpsuit.
COLLECTION SS16
MARIE CLAIRE - US OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
FACTICE, FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
NOTION MAG, UK OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
NOTION MAG, UK OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
NOTION MAG, UK OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
NOTION MAG, UK OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
FACTICE, FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
PUREPEOPLE.COM - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015 Emmanuelle Alt
Emmanuelle Alt arrive à l'École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts pour assister au défilé Lanvin ( collection printemps -été 2016). Paris, le 1er octobre 2015...
COLLECTION SS16
SAY WHO - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015 Delphine Roche
COLLECTION FW15
VOGUE PARIS - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015 Kendall Jenner
COLLECTION FW15
VOGUE PARIS - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015 Kendall Jenner
COLLECTION FW15
LE GRAND JOURNAL, FRANCE OCTOBER 2015 Melle Agnes
COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE - SPAIN OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
THE CREATORS PROJECR.COM - US OCTOBER 2015
Who says construction work isn't fashionable? At the Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 Womenswear event, Wanda Nylon proves the tough world of hard hats and I-beams to be an effective platform for high fashion. Set in an unfinished building with sturdy wooden benches lining the walls, and hard hats passed out as party favors to attendees, the atmosphere is primed impeccably for Wanda Nylon's progressive SS16 collection. Alluring sounds play as colorful lights illuminate the girded runway. The building itself (an abandoned warehouse near the famous Le Trianon) is an integral part of the aesthetic of the showcase: Wanda Nylon is essentially building the future by deconstructing construction itself. The Parisian brand has been known for its subversively redesigned rainwear since its 2012 launch with the now-infamous transparent plastic trench, the vinyl shirt, and all-polyurethane rainwear. The SS16 showcase certainly got its inspiration from an even more extended retro-futurism: "Excess. By all means. In everything," are the words written in bold letters on the event programs, but despite the extreme tagline, Senyk, the designer, manages to inject what she describs as “excess” into her looks with amazing taste; aluminum-colored rainwear, white dresses reminiscent of science fiction, and otherworldly black bondage dresses are just some of the brilliant looks represented. There were no pearls, no bags, and none of your run-of-the-mill conventions: “We used a bigger panels of fabric for this collection,” Johanna Senyk tells The Creators Project, making it clear that the collection acts as an effort to empower women, with tradition as an afterthought. “There is still plastic but we also used jersey, cotton, poplin... I especially like to work with felt. Bodies are flattered by it and it is easy to use. I want to make women feel beautiful and delighted. What I am doing, I do it for them. That is all that matters.” The SS16 Wanda Nylon showcase causes a pleasant, unintended mingling of feelings. There are moments of excitement and surprise that never diverge from the genuine Senyk specificity that anyone familiar with Wanda Nylon is accustomed to. “For the first time, I did not check on Now Fashion for what was going on. I tried to stay myself without being influenced by anyone,” Senyk explains.Wanda Nylon’s SS16 collection consistently combines separate elements without pretense, creating a clean design with more than just a glimpse of eccentricity. Senyk tells The Creators Project, next season will likely focus more on stitch and accessories.
COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE.FR - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE.FR - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE.FR - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
PARIS FASHION WEEK - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015 Emmanuelle Alt
COLLECTION SS16
PLEASE.COM - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
DEUX HOMMES.COM - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
ZEBULE.COM - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
SCHON, UK OCTOBER 2015
Wanda Nylon threw a raging party of athletic silhouettes and glistening outerwear fit for the modern woman. Androgynous and edgy models stomped onto the construction site of Nylon’s atmosphere brandishing an array of separates that revealed tattoos on arms and the fittest midriffs. Photographer Charlotte Navio takes us backstage for an inside look on show preparations.
COLLECTION SS16
i-D MAGAZINE.COM- FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
CRASH MAGAZINE - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
10 MAGAZINE.COM, UK SEPTEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
L’OFFICIEL.FR - FRANCE SEPTEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
ECLECTIC MAGAZINE - FRANCE SEPTEMBER 2015
Photographer Kristopher Orr takes us backstage during Paris Fashion Week at the highly anticipated Wanda Nylon SS16 collection. One of the trends of the season sees young designers moving away from the mainstream fashion clusters, starting with surprising locations. For her first on-schedule show, Pigalle was an unusual location but with a collection full of PVC, trenches and a cast that included French actress Joana Preiss, Charlotte Free, Irina Kravchenko, and Rita Saunders; the brand made a point that their women were strong and made their own decisions.
COLLECTION SS16
DAZED.COM, UK SEPTEMBER 2015
Primarily known for its imaginative take on waterproof outerwear, like a signature clear PVC trenchcoat, designer and founder Joanna Senyk decided to broaden the Wanda Nylon wardrobe out and give it a real punchy identity. Their first show on schedule at Paris was held in a construction site up in the vaguely seedy Pigalle area. Senyk put her former life as a casting director to good use as a diverse mix of “strong girls – every age, powerful, intelligent and contemporary” stomped out in a mix of deconstructed sportswear, hacked up trenchcoats and plenty of plastic hooded pieces with a touch of metallic foiling. It was a catwalk of characters with Tamy Glauser and a pink-haired Cheyenne walking alongside older French actresses like Joana Preiss and Aurore Lagache. “I don’t make these kind of clothes and put them on a petite Parisienne, with her perfect coiffure and stupid boyfriend jacket. I just want to express myself ” – Joanna Senyk “I was always looking at the faces with a strong attitude, said Senyk. “It’s not just about them doing one show and that’s it. I want to grow up with them!” When asked whether it felt strange to do a show like this in Paris, Senyk was forthright about who Wanda Nylon is intended for. “It’s the only way I could do this show. I don’t make these kind of clothes and put them on a petite Parisienne, with her perfect coiffure and stupid boyfriend jacket. I just want to express myself and do the clothes that I feel are real.” @wandanylon COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE.FR, FRANCE SEPTEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
WWD.COM, US - SHOW REVIEW SEPTEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
VOGUE.COM, US SEPTEMBER 2015
COLLECTION SS16
EXCELLLENT.COM - FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION SS15
GRAZIA, FRANCE SEPTEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
VOGUE, RUSSIA OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
LIBERATION NEXT, FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
MODZIK, FRANCE OCTOBER 2015
COLLECTION FW14
SCHON, UK SEPTEMBER 2015
COLLECTION FW15
