Speed Climbing! Advance praise from the climbing community for Speed Climbing! How to Climb Faster and Better

'(Justgreat! Guess all o f our hard-won secrets are out. Guess all my records are going to be taken away now. Great, just freakin' great!" -Steve Schneider

"Inspiring and joyful! Makes you want t o travel light, go fast, and be a better player on the team." -Tom Frost

"This book is not just for a few, highly skilled climbers who have elevated the sport to a high art. This is for those o f us who want to get down without bivying, beat a thunderstorm, or get in a raft o f pitches in the few pathetic hours we have available. It is a trove o f practical information-detailed yet accessible, sprightly and humorous. Hans Florine is a very great force in our sport. Creative and responsible, he has contributed in more ways than most climbers could know, from setting rad Yosemite and High Sierra records to volunteering for years as the director o f the American Sport Climbing Federation. Hans has always been a superior competitor because as hard as he tries to do his best, and to best the next climber, he truly wishes others well. He is the first to congratulate and appreciate a peer who breaks one o f his records (then to grab a rope and try again). This book is a way o f wishing all o f us well." -Alison Osius, Executive Editor,

Rock and Ice magazine, author, and former national champion in sport climbing

.-

How to ClimbTMSeries

Speed Climbing! How to Climb Faster and Better Second Edition

Hans Florine and Bill Wright

FALCON" GUI LFORD. CONNECTICUT HELENA. MONTANA AN IMPRINT OF THE GLOBE PEQUOT PRESS

Copyright O 2002, 2005 by The Globe Pequot Press All rights reserved. No part o f this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted by the 1976 Copyright Act or by the publisher. Requests for permission should be made in writing to The Globe Pequot Press, P.O. Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437. Falcon and FalconCuide are registered trademarks ofThe Globe Pequot Press. Text design: Lisa Reneson Illustrations: Greg Opland Climbing top0 on pages 134-1 35 courtesy and permission o f SuperTopo. ISSN: 1550-9656 ISBN: 0-7627-3095-1 Manufactured in the United States o f America Second edition/First printing

To buy books in quantity for corporate use or incentives,call (800)962-0973, ext. 4551, or e-mail [email protected]

Contents Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii

...... 1

Chapter 1:

Speed Climbing: The What and The Why

Chapter 2:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Speed Climbing Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Simul-climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Chapter 3: Chapter 4: Chapter 5: Chapter 6: Chapter 7: Chapter 8: Chapter 9: Chapter 10: Chapter 11: Chapter 12: Appendix 1:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 The Art o f Passing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Soloing

. . . . . . . . . . . 77 Food and Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Training and Fitness Levels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Gear Selection and Random Tips

. . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Ethics and Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 The History o f Speed Climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Speed Beta for Specific Routes . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Obsessed with the Nose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Beta on the Maiden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Competitions and Sport Routes

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150

Appendix 2: Glossary

Multipitch Climbs

Speed Records

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156

Further Reading and References About the Authors

Warning: Climbing is a dangerous sport. You can be seriously injured or die. Read the following before you use this book. This is an instruction book about rock climbing, a sport that is inherently dangerous. Do not depend solelyon information fiom this book for your personal safety. Your climbing safety depends on your own judgment based on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic assessment o f your climbing ability. The training and nutritional advice given in this book are the author's opinions. Consult your physician before engaging in any part o f the training and nutritional program described by the author. There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that this instruction book contains accurate and reliable information. There are no warranties as to fitness for a particular purpose or that this book is merchantable. Your use o f this book indicates your assumption o f the risk o f death or serious injury as a result o f climbing's risks and is an acknowledgment o f your own sole responsibility for your safety in climbing or in training for climbing. The Globe Pequot Press assumes no liability for accidents happening to, or injuries sustained by, readers who engage in the activlties described in this book.

Preface Hans Florine Here's a challenge: We have received a few reports about how fast our first edition was read cover-to-cover on-sight. The record for the first edition was just more than three hours. Ready? Go! It's been four years since I wrote the first edition o f this book. Since then I have given numerous shows and clinics in which I've praised the stories in our first edition as great ways to motivate or inspireyou to get out and get more climbingdone! I have also pointed out the "average Joe" descriptions o f my friends in the stories and how they have done extraordinary climbing feats while presumably leading regular lives. Since the first edition I too have become an " average JoeJ': I have stayed married; fathered two children; worked a bit more (still not nine to five, but some hourly work); and turned forty years old. What's terrific is that I feel like I'm getting out and doing some o f the best climbing and ''fitness feats" I've done in my entire life. For example, I've set the speed record on the Nose o f El Capitan twice; I've set the speed record on the California fourteeners; I've climbed the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome in a day with Peter Coward; I've broken my lifetime best in a mile run-four times; I've run my first marathon; I've ridden my first 100kilometer bike ride; and I climbed El Capitan for my one-hundredth time! So what!? Well, it is arevelation to me that while I am supposedly loaded down with more life situations, I'm accomplishing some great climbing goals. This is exactly what this book is about and i t should not have been a revelation to me-but it was. Better focus, planning, and execution has made the difference. Now my climbing time is limited, so I anticipate it, plan it, visualize it, and execute it much better. Gettingmore in for us is not just about climbing, it's about everything, be it time with the kids, dinner with the wife, or surfing. Greg Crouch wrote me rather boastfully that he left his Conservacion Patagonica office desk at 11:52 a.m. in proper dress for the job. He changed into a wet suit, ran across the parking lot to the beach, paddled out past the break, caught a wave, paddled back out, sat on his board waiting for the next wave, looked down at his watch, and saw that i t was noon. Now that's a fine start to a lunch break.

We've removed old and added new stories to this second edition, and kept the ones that we thought were too good to get rid of. We've also made corrections where we saw problems. Thanks are owed to: Jacqueline Florine, Steve Schneider, Yuji Hirayama, Bill Wright, Steve Gerberding, Russ McBride, Scott Bovard, Peter Coward, Jim Herson, Chandlee Harrell, Greg Murphy, Ammon McNeely, Chris McNamara, Cedar Wright, Brian McCray, Timmy O'Neill, Dean Potter, the Huber brothers, Leo Houlding, Russ Mitrovich, and many others who have climbed with me, taught me things, broken my records and inspired me to do better things. You all are part o f a community that embraces, in one way or another, the desire to improve on what is possible. For some it's a competitive drive, for others it's the satisfaction from doing what "they said couldn't be done," and for othersthey simply love doing tons o f climbing and they have limited time. As before, I truly wish that you will gain knowledge and inspiration from this book so thatyou can get in more climbing.

Bill Wright The struggle itself toward the heights is enough to fill man's heart. One must imagine Sisyphus happy. -Albert Camus, The Myth ofSisyphus I love climbing-climbing up anything at all. From hiking up a trail to pedaling up steep pavement, from skinning up a snow slope to jamming up a crack, I love to climb. There is something in the struggle against gravity that elates me. I used to think that climbing was a passing fancy and that once I'd climbed El Cap, I'd move on to other adventures. I know now that isn't true. I'm a lifer.

I decided to write this book for many reasons, but the most overwhelming reason was because I wanted to have such a book. Despite the fact that speed climbing has a rich history and has been part o f our sport since its inception, up until now no book has been available on the subject. I finally figured out that if 1 wanted such a book, I'd have to write i t myself-along with Hans, o f course. This brings me to another reason 1 wanted to take on this project-the

...

Vlll

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D B E l T E R

opportunity to work with Hans Florine, the "master o f speed climbing." Getting to know Hans and sharing a rope with him has been a thrill, like playing baseball with Babe Ruth.

I have been frequently frustrated by the media's superficial coverage o f awesome climbing feats. There seems to be an incredible disregard for the obvious question "How did they go that fast?" Certainly other climbers have wondered the same thing. This book is my attempt to answer that question. You might be asking yourself, "Who is Bill Wright and why should I read what he's written?" Well, I'm nobody really-but in a sense I'm everybody. At the very least I'm probably a typical weekend climber. But, you ask, "If you're so typical, what do you have to say that might be o f interest to me?" I act here mainly as an interviewer, researcher, and writer. I was as curious about the techniques o f the super speed climbers as perhaps you are now. While I do practice speed climbing, I do it at a modest level-just like I climb at a modest level. Hence, I'm proof that the techniques in this book aren't just for the superstars, but will prove useful for every weekender in search o f more climbing. While many climbers have influenced me, there is one climber who prompted me to fundamentally reexamine my own climbing-Jim Herson. For years I had been interested in speed climbing, but mostly in an armchair manner. However, in June 1999 mypartner, Tom Karpeichik, and I were just starting up the Salathk Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. We were climbing the first ten pitches, known as Free Blast, so that we could fix ropes down from Heart Ledges. We then planned on spending the next three and a half days climbing and hauling our way to the top. This is the standard approach to climbing the SalathC. Our speed was probably about average. As is often the case, i t was a zoo at the start o f the route that morning. No less than four parties were jockeying for position on the route. We were there first and moving steadily up the route, but there was another team right on our heels. As I finished leading the fourth pitch, a

5.1 0b crack, Tom told me that we were going to let another party pass us. I looked down expecting to see the white helmets o f the team that had been behind us all morning-but no, the passers were a different party altogether. I was amazed. How could these guys have already passed the White Helmets and now be poised to pass us?They hadn't even hiked to the base o f the route by the time I jugged the third pitch,

PREFACE

ix

and now they were going by us. I watched as a lean Frank Shorter lookalike practically ran up the 5.1 0 pitch, only placing a couple pieces o f protection. (American Frank Shorter won a gold medal in the Olympic marathon in 1972.) The climber said hello as he clipped a draw into the anchor and, without pausing, moved on up the next pitch! This was my introduction to Jim Herson. I noticed Herson's climbing rack was tiny-about one-third the size o f our rack. He was climbing the Salathe (notorious for wide pitches) with nothing bigger than his single #3 Camalot. We learned from his partner, Peter Coward, thatJim was trying t o redpoint the entire Salathk Wall. (At the time only four people had redpointed every pitch on the Salathe: Alex and Thomas Huber, Yuji Hirayama, and Tommy Caldwell. In 2003, Jim finally completed his redpoint.) Clearly Jim was a world-class climber, but that wasn't the most striking aspect o f his ascent. What amazed me was that these two were climbing the Salathk in a day. They were climbing i t like i t was a local crag route, a free-climbing project, like I had done with single-pitch routes near my home. They climbed with a tiny rack and a small pack, and moved lightning fast. It was a different sport than what Tom and I were practicing; we were inching up the rock in painstaking fashion. To compare our ascent to Herson and Coward's is to compare a marathoner with a miler. They were free climbing and moving fast; we were mired in such mundane tasks as jugging fixed lines and hauling bags. It was a big adventure for us, one that we had planned for an entire year; but to Jim i t was just the route he'd decided to climb when he woke up that day. I wanted to enter this world and I began researching in earnest. This led to a correspondence and eventually a friendship with Hans, and even Jim Herson. Speed climbing feats have been reported in a number o f books and magazines but never meticulously recorded. I haven't changed that here, but have made an attempt to compile some o f its rich history. I've tried to focus on the climbs that have changed attitudes. I have left much out due to limitations o f space. Additional sources for speed climbing history can be found in the 2000 American Alpine ClubJournal and Climbing magazine issues # I 53 and #203. I've also left out any history o f formal speed competition climbing at this time. I do have visions ofwriting a more complete history someday, so i f you have any information about speed climbing in other areas, please e-mail me at [email protected]. I want to acknowledge and thank the great partners I've had through-

X

SPEED CLIMBING! H O W T O CLIMB FASTER A N D BETTER

out the years. In that respect I feel I am probably the luckiest climber in the world. My circle o f climbing partners is the best anywhere. I'll risk offending some partners and list names. I'll also apologize ahead o f time for anyone left out. Special mention has to go to three partners: Lou "The Loobster" Lorber, George "Trashman" Bell, and Tom "Hardly Manson" Karpeichik. They have an insatiable desire for climbing in all i t s forms. There are no finer climbers or individuals anywhere. They are the rawest definition o f a climbing partner. These three will, and have, given me the shirt o f f their backs. There is no "mine" with them. Everything is ours. They never complain, never tire, and never turn down an adventure. There are many more partners-too many to completely list. I thank Bruce "Dr. Offwidth" Bailey, Eric "Tinky Winky" Winkelman, John "Homie" Prater, Mark "White Rim" Oveson, John "Berries" Black, Greg "Opie" Opland, Steve "Bowling Ball" Mathias, and the rest o f the Satan's Minions Scrambling Club for climbing with me. O f course, I must thank Hans Florine for agreeing to work with me on this book and for his boundless generosity in sharing his home, his knowledge, and his spirit. Finally, my greatest joy: my family. My wife, Sheri, a serious athlete herself, is the love o f my life. She makes i t possible for me t o pursue climbing. She understands that life is a balancing act and she keeps me from toppling over. She has also given me two great little boys: Daniel and Derek. I can't wait for these two to guide me up Everest-in record time, no less!

When the first edition o f this book was published, I was doing speed climbs frequently, but using just the techniques o f simul-climbing and simul-seconding, and mostly on smaller crags routes (seven pitches or shorter) around Boulder. Writing the book opened my eyes to what was possible for me and I set my sights on climbing the Nose In A Day (NIAD). O f course, teaming up with Hans would be cheating. He can take literally anyone up the Nose in a day. I needed an equal partner and I convinced Hardly Manson (aka Tom Karpeichik) to join the quest. We first went to Zion to get a system worked out on smaller walls. We climbed Moonlight Buttress in one day and broke the climb into two blocks: I led the first half and Hardly the second. The first time I ever short-fixed a pitch was on this route. I didn't get very far before Hardly

PREFACE

xi

arrived at the belay, and I said to him, "Hey, I've written about such techniques, but I've never actually used them before." I used my own book as a tutorial! Later that year we did Half Dome in a day, car to car. The next year we returned to Yosemite, broke the Nose into six blocks, and climbed it in just under twenty-two hours. This was an on-sight ascent for Hardly. My first night-leading experience was on the final block, from 8:00 P.M. to 2:00 A.M. I discovered that there is no exposure at night, as my headlamp could only illuminate within a range o f 20 feet. After resting on top and waiting for some daylight, we descended the East Ledges, still in our climbing shoes. I even linked the Nose directly into Nutcracker when Opie and the Toolman talked me into joining them. Later that week we climbed the East Buttress o f El Capitan and then I capped the week by climbing the Salathe Wall with Jim Herson in just fifteen hours. O f course, Jim did all the leading and climbed the route mostly free, but I had climbed El Capitan, in a day, three times in one week. This book really works!

xii

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW T O CLIMB FASTER A N D BE-TTER

Dream barriers look very high until someone climbs them. Then they are not barriers anymore. -Lasse Viren, one o f the greatest distance runners o f all time What is speed climbing? To some it's what they see on TV-the X Games, where people climb a 60-foot plastic wall in twelve seconds. To others it's plugging away up a 3,000-foot El Cap route in a day. Speed climbing is many different things to many different people, but at i t s most basic level, speed climbing is a philosophy about moving quickly and efficiently up difficult terrain. It doesn't have to be an all-out race for the world record. Maybe you just want to do a big route in a day. Or, it could just be about setting a personal record on a route-much as you might do while running your favorite trail. This book is not about how to burn the rubber o f f the bottom ofyour climbing shoes-it's about getting in more climbing on your climbing days. We wrote this book because we believe that the only thing better than climbing is more climbing! All the tips in this book aren't for everyone to practice. Carefully consider those that you can utilize and discard the others. Keep in mind that the more tips you use, the more climbing you'll do on your weekendsand the bigger your smile will be while you daydream at the ofice on Monday morning. The desire to improve and learn the more efficientlfaster way to do a task can really change what you are able to do in a day-or in an evening after work. Speed climbing is fun. Speed climbing lets you climb more, but it clearly isn't everything. It holds no interest for some climbers, though most climbers would benefit from at least knowing the techniques and applying them, however sparingly, to their own climbing. We don't speed climb all the time. In fact, for me (B.W.) at least, it is the exception rather than the rule. Legendary French climber, Gaston Rebuffat,

-.

L ,

-

:WalI Plann

The Snowball Effec

p route not bec: iuse they

Most people haul tons o f gear u

. - - -- want Ito savor I:he experience o f c:arrying 2LIIthat s t uff, but because

they can't clim b the rou~ t ein oneI day. Let'stake a look at what hap. . , pens wnen you can,t c ~ ~ m the b route In a slngie day. You have t o take

.

8 .

bivy gear, right? Maybe a portalc:dge. Certainly mc)re food ,and wate r. Withc~ uthis t extra weiglh t maybe you couId do the* route in , say, a daY I half; but now it WIII taKe you two ana a n a ~days f bec-a I Ice .#I

I

I

' I

you're, going sl,ower hauling all tti i s additional geal and set1:ing up a1nd tearin,g down t he bivou;3c. So noIW you ne!ed gear f'or two and a half

r r n says, wnlcn Involves more water ana rooa, slowing you aown rurtner. I

I .

I

I

It's th e provert

l

0

,

.

I

vball effect" o f bij wall clirnbing.

wrote in the introduction to his classic book Starlight and Storm,

". . .

some mountaineers are proud o f having done all their climbs without bivouac. How much they have missed!" And despite the fact that Hans sports a license plate that reads "no bivys," we've both taken time t o smell the alpine roses. Speed climbing doesn't mean that you race up the rock so fast that you can't enjoy the climbing or admire the views or revel in the solitude o f your position. You could liken i t to going on a trail run versus a backpacking trip. On the trail run you are moving much less encumbered and flowing easily over the terrain. You cover the same distance in a long run as on a two-day backpacking trip. Is one better than the other? Not really. It certainly depends on the person. Each experience has its rewards. Even an average team planning to climb the Nose in three days can benefit from speed climbing techniques. The Nose has good bivy ledges distributed along the route. I f you are fast enough to reach these ledges each day, then you won't have to haul up a portaledge or an uncomfortable hammock. This ability to climb fast and get t o the bivy ledges means you haul less weight and waste less time setting up and tearing down the bivy. Hence, even though the ascent is not done in a single push, the techniques discussed in this book can increase your enjoyment o f the climbing by decreasing the drudgery o f hauling unnecessary weight.

2

SPEED

CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D B E l T E R

Chandlee Harrell infi-ont of Mount Goode on just another weekend outing-ifyou speed climb. (Gregory Murphy)

Success versus Failure on the Direct North Buttress by Bill Wright While getting ready to attempt the Direct North Buttress (DNB) o f Middle Cathedral Rock in Yosemite in mid-November, my partnerJim Merritt and I got to talking about the "multipl~cat~on o f supplies." It started by simply reading the label on our energy bars, which said to "eat one every hoorwith a quart ofwaterwhile exercising." "Well," we thought, "we're definitely exercising." We needed to calculate how many bars to bring. The DNB is a serious, devious route that's 20 pitches long. Jim and I were in over our heads a bit-being somewhat slow climbers-so we decided on a two-day ascent, which meant hauling bivy gear up the route. We would be working about ten hours a day for two days. I f we each ate one energy bar per hour with the recommended one quart o f water, we calculated the amount ofwater we would have to haul would equal forty quarts (two people x ten hours x two days x one quart o f water). Because there are two pints in a quart and "a pint's a pound the world around," we would have to carry 80 pounds o f water alone. O f course, this is way too much water for a north-facing wall in mid-November, but that's not my point. My point is that if we had hauled 80 pounds o f water, it probably would have taken us twice as long to climb the wall-but

then we'd have needed to haul twice as

many energy bars and twice as much water! You can see where this is leading. Pretty soon we'd be so weighed down that we wouldn't be able to get o f f the ground. We could have used siege tactics to climb the DNB and solved our lack-of-speed problem. The first big walls were climbed using siege tactics for exactly this reason. But we didn't want to climb the route that way, not necessarily because o f some ethical dilemma-heck, we were just a couple o f weekend warriors who weren't trying to prove anything to anybody-but

because we didn't have the time or

resources for such a prolonged battle. In the end, we retreated o f f the DNB. We just weren't fast enough to make the climb and leave ourselves a reasonable safety

---

- *

-- .

rgin. We didn't really need to be better technical climbers, though :ourse that would have helped. We just needed to be faster, more efficient clin _

Reasons to Speed Climb The reasons for climbing fast are as numerous as the reasons for climbing at all. In alpine climbing, speed is safety. The less time you spend exposed to objective dangers such as avalanches, storms, and rockfall, the safer you are. Maybe you just want to move more efficiently with the least amount o f down time. When you call up your partner to make a plan for the weekend, you don't ask, "Want to go belaying tomorrow?" or, "Want to haul a big bag up El Cap this weekend?" No, you want to go climbing! The rest o f that crap is just an evil necessity, not a joy to be prolonged. Climbing fast not only cuts down on the extraneous chores, but i t provides for more comfortable nights. When asked why he climbs so fast, the great French speed climber, Jean-Marc Boivin, said, "The fact is that at night I'd rather sleep with Fran~oisethan in a cold bivouac in an ice hole!" TouchC. What about sport climbers doing one- or two-pitch routes without the prospect o f a cold bivy?Well, simply put, going faster will make you a better climber. Climbing hard routes at the limit o f your ability is frequently a race against muscular failure; the faster you are, the better chance you have to win that race. Getting t o the top before you pump out equals success on a sport route. By far the best reason to speed climb is because it's fun. Remember, the only thing better than climbing is more climbing. Climbing fast enables you to climb more pitches, complete more routes, and go more places. Whether that means moving quickly up a route without extraneous distractions or blasting up a route at your absolute limit, speed climbing is fun. As Miles Smart, holder o f numerous Yosemite speed records, says, "Stripped down and going light is when [climbing] really becomes fun."

"In Defense o f Speed Records

. . ."

Some will say that climbing a route to set a speed record is silly and that time is better spent pushing the level o f difficulty or forging a new route. SPEED CLIMBING: THE W H A T A N D T H E WHY

5

--

-.

--

7 '

F'

.*.

,-.

--

Throwing Tradition to the Wind on the Nose by Hans Florine In 1987 1 tried to climb the Nose with my buddy Mike Lopez. We got o f f route on the second pitch and nearly fell to our deaths when a pin came out and left the two o f us and the haul bag dangling on one small nut. It took us most o f the day to get to Sickle Ledge, just four pitches off the ground. We ate some food there and decided that we should bail, so we rappelled the four rope-lengths back to the ground. We made it t o the valley floor before dark-barely. The next year we came back, "weekend warrior bumblies" that we were. We arrived in the meadow Saturday at 6:00 P.M. on the threeday Fourth ofJuly weekend. We were a bit ignorant about "how it's supposed t o be done." Despite the fact that it was late in the day, we thought, "What the heck, let's jump on it!" That was at 7:00 P.M. We climbed under a full moon until we couldn't climb any longer. We stopped on Sickle Ledge for a two-hour nap but made i t to Dolt Tower by Sunday at noon. We slept on El Cap Tower in the afternoon for a few hours, continued to climb through the next night, and finally were so whipped we stopped on the ledge at Camp V for six hours o f sleep. We topped out on Monday at 1:00 P.M. It was a forty-two-hour ascenton-sight (kind of). We drank caffeine, drove back home, and made

it t o classes on Tuesday! We did this route fast out o f necessity, I suppose, but we also did

it by saying, "To hell with how it's supposed to be done! We've got two days-let's get on it!" The next time I did the Nose-two years later with Steve Schneider-we made the climb in eight hours. Three years after that I made i t to Sickle Ledge with Peter Croft in twenty-six minutes-a distance that took me nearly a day on my first try seven years prior! In 2002, with Yuji Hirayama, i t took sixteen minutes.

For some climbers this is unaou~tedlytrue. But just like there are )IC

speed

world speed records. For some o f us, climbi

6

SPEED CLIMBING! H O W T O CLIMB FASTER A N D BE'TTER

:e quickly

especially on-sight, can be just as adventurous as putting up a new route or climbing a route at the limit o f our ability. In fact, it can often be much more o f an adventure. A new aid roure entails a lot more belaying, hauling, and sleeping on portaledges than it does actual climbing. Speed climbing, on the other hand, maximizes the actual time spent climbing. Some people are put o f f by the overtly competitive atmosphere o f Yosemite Valley speed climbers. While it's true this atmosphere isn't for everyone, it's also true that many are motivated by competition. In every sport, competition brings out the best in participants. In fact, almost every significant climber's rksume will include at least some mention o f a fast time on a particular route. Even sport climbers will mention how fast they redpointed a certain route. Climbing a route fast doesn't require joining some unsanctioned speed competition, i t just requires that you enjoy moving quickly over the rock. Basically, we're firm believers in the power o f positive competition. Blatant competition is healthy! It inspires us to do bigger, better, faster feats, and in turn, to inspire others. It creates a feedback loop that drives us to be our best. Setting speed climbing records is not for everyone. Many people relish the time spent on a wall, and instead o f wanting to go faster, seem to stretch things out to prolong their time in the vertical world. El Cap has been climbed in as little as one hour and fifty-one minutes, and as long as thirty-nine days! Some people like to slow down and smell the copperheads; others, as Maverick says in the movie Top Gun, just "feel the needthe need for speed!" Consider a fellow named Jason Wening. Wening isn't a climber; he's a disabled swimmer. But he understands the need for speed-he holds six world records in competitive swimming. When asked why he pushes himself so hard, he responded, "For the simple pleasure o f forcing the body and mind I was given to the absolute edge o f my capabilities. I'm fascinated by trying to go even faster. And when I do, I get for just a moment a vision o f the limitless potential o f the human race."

Be Careful Out There (A Disclaimer) Rock climbing is a dangerous sport, and speed climbing carries with it certain risks. I f you don't understand this, then you probably shouldn't be reading this book. Yes, the dangers can be mitigated and we've both climbed thousands o f routes without getting killed. (Bill did break his

SPEED CLIMBING: T H E W H A T A N D T H E W H Y

7

Best view in the Valley-looking down the Nosefiom the lastpitch. (Hans Florine) back in a rappelling accident, although he recovered quickly and three months later broke the record for climbing the "Top Ten" Flatiron routes with Tom Karpeichik.) Speed climbing does not necessarily result in unsafe climbing. The point is that you can get away with taking risks time after time, but don't get lulled into a false sense o f security. As Bill's experience emphasizes, accidents do happen, so don't l e t your guard down. In a sport such as tennis, if you make a mistake, the worst that can happen is you lose the point. In climbing, a bad mistake can kill you. In tennis you have a split second to make a decision and execute a shot, and it is difficult to be "on" every time under these rapid-fire circumstances. In climbing, you have plenty o f time to make the right decision. There is no time limit in most cases. Even though this book is about climbing faster, these speed techniques must be tempered with good common sense. Take enough time to make sure you and your partner are safe. Be certain that you are doing everything right, and then recheck everything again. If things look good, continue from there. During a speed ascent o f the Nose with Dean Potter, Timmy O'Neill once made a near fatal mistake. Timmy was cleaning a pendulum pitch and had lowered out with a loop o f rope. He hadn't tied in short

8

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D BETTER

because he had his jugs on the rope instead. Just before he let go o f his lower-out loop, he felt something was wrong, but he was feeling the pressure to move fast. He let go o f the loop and took a hundred-foot fall onto the end o f the rope. He was unhurt, but should have taken the time to notice that his jugs were on the wrong section o f the rope. You'll find as you read through the book that we don't advocate rushing decisions; we have you eliminate unnecessary actions and methods and make more eficient movements. In some cases, climbing fast is safer than climbing slowly. For instance, i f a bad storm is approaching, i t is advantageous to move fast so that you can get o f f the climb, either up or down, and seek shelter. Having said that, we want you to remember that some o f the techniques specified in this book can be dangerous i f you don't use good judgment when implementing them. Decide which techniques will work for you, take what you can from this book, and use it to get in tons o f climbing-but be careful!

Cra by Bill Wri~j 0 SundajI, June 3, 1h ~ swas my only day he , . to climb w ~ t hHans and, not surpris~ngly, -, wanted to Flush the speed a bit. His idea was to clini b as m:InY Tuo lumne Meadows cjomes as we coulc before dinner. It was a hc3b.b~t's . . approach: . ... , , .. We wanted adventure, but above all we d~dn'twant . . to t)e late fo r dinner, which inI our casle would be at the Tioga Pass n.

Rest:aurant (TPR). W e got up at 5:15 A.M. an(j so did Hardly a~ n d

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Judy-they were plannlng - t o cllmb up at luolumne also. Hans and I ate ixnd took off in his car. Afte r climbing he'd be continui ngon t o 'the east ern side (,f the Sierra to me,et up wit h his famlily and sc>mefriends. We' d meet I- lardly antzi Judy f or~dinner :ind I'd gc3 back wiith them. We pulle!d up be1ow State ly Pleasure Dome just afte!r 7:00

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clothes, gearlng up, and, most of all, lookbut spent so long chang~ng ing for Hans's chalk IJag, that Hardly ;ind Judy pulled up before we everI left the Icar. Judy immediately askec .. - .. . ,, ;c+nl . . . you cllmbed so tar?" She's a ,p

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SPEED

)w many domes hiave

CLIMBING: THE WHAT A N D THE WHY

I put on my climbing shoes at the car since the approach and descent involves friction climbing on steep slabs. Hans went with a pair o f running shoes, which he had resoled with sticky rubber. He'd use these for the first four domes o f the day. We finally started up just before 7:30 A.M. I'd do most o f the leading throughout the day, since that is the safest arrangement for us t o simul-climb-Hans isn't likely to fall on anything I can climb. Many years ago t had climbed South Crack and found it very easy for the 5.8 rating. Today was no different. It seemed ludicrous to compare this route t o some o f the 5.8 off-width and chimney routes in the valley. I'm not a great slab climber, but this slab was low angle and it had a crack in it. I guessed the crux friction moves were 5.8, but the route wasn't sustained. It was just plain fun. We romped up the route at a good pace, and for our descent we used a neat trick. I went above the big pine tree at the start o f the descent slabs and weighted the rope. I got a cushy lowering down the slab, while Hans got a pull up the slab to the tree. We were back at the car as Hardly started up the first pitch. Judy waved good-bye to us as we hopped in the car and sped off. Our next dome, Pywiack, was just up the road. The easiest route on this dome is the Dike Route (5.9)-a

fun, run-out friction route

that follows a knobby dike. We parked and as soon as we hit the lowangle slabs at the base, we started our route time. I started t o tie into the rope and Hans said, "Tie in while you're hiking up this slab. Always keep moving." He's a nut, but I obliged. I'd done this route once before also and had trouble finding the bolts on it. This time the same thing happened. I missed a bolt and was run out 40 f e e t or so. I couldn't see another bolt until the belay, another 50 feet. I wrestled with this dilemma a bit and dec~dedt o go on. Thankfully, as soon as I made this decision I noticed a bolt near me. This turned out to be very good since the moves above were challenging. We simul-climbed, with me leading once again, through the crux 5.9 section, then I clipped into the anchors and belayed Hans up the crux. He was still climbing in his running shoes, and every time I'd look back down the route to him, he'd be climbing with no hands, adjusting

the slack with his Grigri. Clearly he wasn't too challenged. We didn't do the final 5.7 crack pitch. Most parties don't do it-maybe because it requires gear and is o f a very different nature. I think the descent is a lot longer also. We didn't go to the top o f most domes anyway. We just descended the slabs to the west back to the base. To get as many domes as possible, we tried to add in short routes whenever we could. Our first opportunity was with the Golfer's Route on Low Profile Dome. This route has a short approach, is only two pitches long, and is rated only 5.7. 1 combined the route into one pitch, which isn't a big stretch since together they are only 165 feet long. Nevertheless, Hans simul-climbed behind me. His philosophy about simul-climbing isn't what you'd normally think. For most climbers, simul-climbing is something that i s done when you run out o f rope and want to keep moving. Hans starts moving long before the rope runs out. His philosophy is for both climbers to keep moving as much as possible. Why just sit at the base when you can be moving? Most respond that one climber needs to be attached to a bomber anchor at all times. Hans's response: Standing on solid ground is a bomber anchor. I f you aren't confident that you can hold your ground when the leader falls, you should not simul-climb. Also, bomber gear placed between the climbers should be sufficient to keep both climbers from hitting the ground-but not much else. Is this more dangerous than regular climbing? Yes, but it is faster as well. It is important to note that there is not extra slack for the leader in this situation. The Crigri turns the rope into an infinitely adjustable length o f rope (up to the maximum, o f course). Hence, Hans always climbs with a loop o f rope beneath him. It takes careful management to ensure this doesn't get caught on a flake and impede progress. I clipped the chains at the top and Hans immediately lowered me to the first belay. Hans went up and tagged the anchor and I lowered him down. Hans only brought his Grigri, which cannot be used to rappel on a doubled rope. So, I -did my first simul-rappel. Hans slapped the Crigri on one end o f the rope and I put my belay device on the other. We clipped a sling between us to ensure we stayed together, and down we went. This worked great and was fun. Next up were the two most crowded routes, and we expected other parties. We'd have our diplomatic skills put to the test in nego-

.tiating passage. First was West Crack on DAFF (Dome Across From Fairview) Dome. This is a fun route with one 5.9 move down low and the rest o f the route 5.8 or easier. The second pitch is particularly memorable as it passes an overhanging bulge via tricky hand-crack moves and some big jugs. Sure enough, when we arrived at the base there were two climbers at the top o f the first pitch and a third was halfivay up the first pitch. We could have climbed Crescent Crack (1 Oa), but I found that route continuously hard. West Crack is much easier, so we decided to climb up t o the party and ask ifwe could simul-climb through. I prefer to let Hans handle situations like this, since many climbers recognize him and get a kick out o f letting him fly by. A bumbler like myself doesn't get the same reaction, but once again I was on the sharp end. I tried to look competent and fast as I approached the belay. It was cold and windy and I noticed the leader o f the party was in shorts. I knew they wouldn't want to be held up under such conditions. I certainlywouldn't. When I was about 20 feet below them, and before I had a chance to initiate a conversation, the leader called down to me, "It's pretty crowded up here." His tone indicated a bit o f annoyance and I immediately felt guilty. I sheepishly said, "Yeah, that's true. I'll bet it's cold up there also." I hesitated a second, then meekly said, "We were wondering if we could simul-climb through." The leader was a bit surprised by this and asked, "Are you simulclimbing now?" Now, I wasn't at the first belay so Hans probably hadn't left the ground yet, but I knew the only way to answer t h ~ squestion was affirmatively. The leader responded, "Well, i f you're already simul-climbing you might as well come through." I thanked him immediately and said how nice he was to let us pass. After a brief pause he said, "Yes, I am nice to let you climb through, but I don't appreciate you guys coming up here when you knew what we were doing." I didn't want to be an asshole and I didn't want to push on past i f i t meant bad feelings among climbers. I was excited about linking up a bunch o f domes, but not at the cost o f pissing people off. Lots o f parties are very friendly and let you pass, i f

it doesn't inconvenience them much. Others won't allow i t at all. I told him, "Look, I don't have to climb through. I just came up here to

ask if it would be okay. I can put in an anchor right where I am, below your belay, and we can rap off. You were here first and I just came up to ask. I didn't invade your belay." He encouraged me to climb through and softened his tone considerably. His partners seemed happy to let me by. As I approached the belay, I leaned my head back to look up at the steep second pitch and my helmet fell off, bouncing all the way to the ground. I had put the helmet on at the car for the hike in, but hadn't snapped the buckle. That had to give these guys a sense of confidence. Yup, a real competent climber coming through! He doesn't even know how to put on his helmet! Hans yelled up, "Do we need to get that now or on the way down?" At the time he was a bit concerned about doing the opening

5.9 moves in his tennis shoes, and was glad to hear me say, "On the way down." We didn't have any choice about that; we had to climb past this party now. I climbed through the belay and over the fun, overhanging start o f the second pitch. I told the other climbers to say hi to Hans when he came up. I was hoping they'd figure out who Hans was, but it didn't dawn on them. I climbed about two and a half pitches before setting a natural belay anchor and putting Hans on belay. Soon Hans had climbed up to me, grabbed the rack, and was leading above metennis shoes smearing on the rock. We simul-climbed the rest o f the way to the top, switched shoes, and ran down the steep descent slabs to the base ofthe route to retrieve my helmet. Looking up, the second climber was just starting to follow the second pitch. We yelled our encouragement and ran back to the car. Our next dome was the biggest o f the day and had previously been an all day climb for me. Fairview Dome was just a little ways up the road. We were surprised t o only see two cars at the parking area and hoped the climbers from both wouldn't be on the Regular Route. Before we left the road, we saw a climber at the First belay and upon our arrival at the base, he was still there. His second was about halfway up the first pitch and, sure enough, the other party was gearing up at the base. I'd let Hans handle the negotiations. Hans walked up to the party at the base and introduced himself, "Hi, I'm Hans. What are your names?" They responded Ray and

-7

Leslie. As Ray started to lead the first pitch, he asked, "Hans, what's your last name?" Hans said, "Christian Anderson," then smiled and said, "Florine." Ray said, "Hey, I know Nancy Feagin (Hans's former girlfriend) real well. I used t o climb with her a lot." Hans said, "Then you might know that she just recently summited Everest." They went on for a bit and then Ray went back to leading. Hans told Leslie that we were trying to do a bunch o f domes in a day, t o which she replied, "Then I suppose you want t o just climb over the top o f us." Hans said, "What I want and what I get are two different things. You were here first and you have dibs on the route." She said she wouldn't mind. Hans yelled up to ask Ray and he said, "No problem, come on up." So I geared up and started up behind him. I climbed a variation crack about

5 feet l e f t ofthe main crack so that our ropes would stay

separated a bit. Eventually, I had to merge with the main crack just before the crux move and our ropes ran more on top o f each other. I stayed a safe distance below him so I wouldn't be in danger o f him falling on me, and so as not to be rude. As we approached the belay ledge, Ray told the other party that his plan was to climb above them to an alternate belay, but that the guy behind him (me) was climbing a lot faster and he planned to let me pass at this ledge, since we had promised to simul-climb the first couple o f pitches. I tried to move by as quickly as possible, thanking them all as I moved straight up the next pitch.

I ran the first four pitches together up to Crescent Ledge. Upon arrival I had three pieces on my rack and no slings-two went in for the belay. I was just starting to get worried about what I'd belaywith when I came across the ledge. The climbing was so fun on these opening pitches that I just didn't want to stop. Finally, out o f gear, I had to. Hans, never far behind, soon joined me on the ledge and said, "Well, you've had a chance to rest, so why don't you continue leading?" I led o f f and we simul-climbed the next eight pitches to the top without regearing. What a fun ramble the route was! Hans joined me on the summit one hour and eleven minutes after I started up the first pitch. Once again, we trotted down the slabs in back and along the base o f the wall and back to the car-completing the climb in just more than two hours car-to-car.

It was time for another small dome, and the sport-climbing area o f East Cottage Dome was just up the road. The approach t o this crag is a bit longer than some ofthe other domes, but we made i t in about

twenty minutes. This small dome has increasingly harder sport routes as you move from right t o l e f t along the base o f the wall. The climbs also get a bit longer as you move left. The easiest and shortest route is called Knobulator, rated 1Oc, and has only four bolts leading up to the anchor, 60 feet away. As we arrived, a woman, Miss Lena, was climbing the upper half o f Knobulator. We introduced ourselves to Trevor, her belayer, and I changed shoes. We asked i f it was okay to start leading the route while Miss Lena set up her rappel. They said it was no problem, and I headed up. Rushing a bit too much and deftly combining this error with little skill and no forearm endurance, I pitched o f f the route at the crux for a 15-foot fall. I immediately got back on the voute and climbed a bit more thoughtfully to the anchors, just barely making it before my arms gave out again. I lowered and cleaned the route, then Hans cruised up it. We changed back into our approach shoes and ran back to the car. We drove to our final stop at the Lembert Dome parking lot and took a bit o f a siesta. Hans got out his big sun hat and a bedroll and relaxed for some lunch. Leafing through the guidebook, I noticed a three-pitch 5.8 route on something called Dog Dome. That seemed like an easy way to tick o f f another dome, and we decided t o do it before Lembert. We asked a climber in the parking lot ifthey had ever done it and they said, "We tried once, but couldn't find it. Then a second time we found it, but didn't climb i t because it didn't look that good." We could hardly ask for a better recommendation than that. We were both salivating at the prospect o f bagging the route. Hiking in to Dog Dome, I looked back at Hans, and he didn't look too excited about things. I asked how he felt and he said, "Sick." He sat down on the ground and looked tired. I had never seen Hans tired before. I thought, "Wow, I tired out Hans Florine. What a stud I am." O f course that wasn't the case, and roles would soon be reversed. After a brief rest Hans agreed to continue on for ten minutes. I f we didn't find the dome within that time, we'd turn back. We found

it within the allotted time, but it took more like twenty minutes to actually get to the base o f the route. Indeed, the route did look serious. It started with a 7-inch crack, as expected, but it was rife with lichen and a bit damp. A small snowfield barred dry access to the route. I placed a number o f large stones across the field and changed shoes.

1 found the first pitch quite serious despite the 5.7 rating. The climbing was definitely hard and the protection was scant. I ran out 150 feet o f rope to a ledge with a couple o f rusty pitons and decided to belay. The crack above looked d~fficult.It was irregular and filled with sharp crystals. When Hans arrived I told him to lead through. He agreed that the climbing was somewhat serious.

I followed the 5.8 jam crack and found it pretty sustained. The crux was a short, 10-foot chimney section. The rock wasn't very solid here and the protection was tinyTCUs. I was glad Hans had led. Hans put the second two pitches together so we were now on the summit. The descent was trivial and we were soon headed back for Lembert, but the climb had taken some o f the wind out o f my sails. My motivation was waning and when we got to Lembert, I looked wistfully up at Cry In Time Again, a 5.9 bolted route. Unfortunately, it had a party on it. We decided to do the Direct Northwest Face (10c with a thin crack crux) instead,

1 told Hans, "I'm fading. I'll lead the first three pitches (fourth class, 5.8,S.g) and you can lead the last two (1 Oa, lOc), okay?" Hans said that would be fine and I started up at a much slower pace than I had been maintaining. I was also placing more gear. We simulclimbed these pitches and once again Hans was mostly climbing without his hands. The 5.9 section didn't seem too bad and soon I was standing below the 10a hand-crack pitch. This i s a short pitch and I was feeling better, so I called down to Hans that I'd do the next pitch also, as I had plenty o f gear left on the rack. The crux is indeed short here, but it is burly and I had to crank hard to lock o f f my high jam and reach the finishing jug. I pulled onto the ledge and looked at the final 1Oc pitch. It was a thin crack and also didn't appear to be very long. There was a fixed wired nut near the top, and I decided to continue once again. This would prove to be a mistake.

I placed a good stopper from the ledge and then moved up 4 feet or so and placed what I thought to be an okay stopper. A few more feet and I clipped the fixed wired. It looked manky, but I had two pieces below it. I launched into the crux fingerlocks and tried to race for the top. I was about 5 feet above the fixed piece when I peeled off, expecting a short fall. But I didn't stop short. I kept going, falling out from the wall. Bam! I slammed into the ledge with my back and my arm, and then fell off that before 1 stopped. I was shocked. What had happened? My arm hurt. I righted myself and Hans yelled up to see if I was okay. I said I was all right and pulled myself onto the ledge. I discovered that I had pulled the wire completely out ofthe fixed piece and then pulled my upper stopper also. The lower stopper caught my fall. Hans asked, "How's your back?" I said my back didn't hurt, but my arm did. I considered finishing the pitch, and Hans said, "Bring me up to that ledge while you think about it." By the time he arrived I had decided that I had had enough for the day and let him lead. He found the pitch challenging also and jammed in a couple o f small TCUs, admonishing me as he went to use cams. Above he climbed a somewhat unprotected slab, but I was soon on belay. We didn't have a nut tool with us (yes, that isn't smart when carrying nuts) and I couldn't clean the stopper that had caught my fall. I left it and continued up the pitch. Mimicking Hans's movements, I climbed the pitch clean. We hiked off to the south down the smooth slabs o f the dome. As we approached the parking lot, I noticed two figures watching us from a picnic table. Sure enough, it was Hardly and Judy. They had done two routes on Stately Pleasure Dome (South Crack and the Great White Book) and two routes on Low Profile Dome (Golfer's Route and Darth Vader's Revenge) and then relaxed. We were all ready to head for some dinner. We spent a total o f 4:44 climbing, averaging about 7.5 minutes for both o f us to climb each pitch. We spent 1:39 either driving, drinking, eating, etc. at the car. The remaining 4:05 was spent hiking to and from each route. Judging from the time spent hiking, I'd guess we hiked about 12 miles. Without my trusty altimeter watch I can only guess at the total vertical: 6,000 feet. The total time for the outing was ten hours and twenty-eight minutes. That seems like a pretty long day

and I was certiainly drajging on Ithe last rcoute, but it didn't seem th; bad u~ n t ithe l e:nd. Breaking the Iday up inI

~ O so

mamy smallce r sectior

with rlice brealts at the (car made i t seem 6

VIJhat a grf:at day it was. MOT ving fast Iover such t rock wit h .~ .- . _II r' I a grear, enrnuslasric parcner IS a wonaerrul experience. Tuoiumne IS a beautiful placle and ttle weather was F~erfect.LYe met Isome ver friendly folk, and they s;miled at our crazy antics. I was wil3ed out z -1_..J - r -1- . J - . L . - -1- - cne or cne aay, our -1.mars satisfying. . ~- ena -~ -

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At the TPF1 we sat next to t he two climbers t hat were on Cry I Time Again. VIrle told tl?em we \Mere the climbers to their right, an .I- -. . . .. . .- . . -. ...- . .- -. ..- - .. IW. v o u v u v s were rnovlrlg really fast.

18

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO C L I M B FASTER A N D B E l T E R

Why should I practice running slow? I already know how to run slow. I want to learn to run fast. -Emil Zatopek, winner o f three gold medals in the 1952 Olympics This chapter doesn't attempt t o describe everything involved in climbing multipitch routes. John Long and Craig Luebben's book Advanced Rock Climbing is a good reference for climbing systems, belaying, descending, equipment, etc. We are going to deal with techniques that are specific to speed climbing. You will learn a variety o f ways to increase your speed. In Long and Luebben's book, there is a line about simul-climbing (a technique discussed in our Chapter 4) that reads ". . . whatever situation might force you into simul-climbing, vaya con Dios." Go with God! Well, that's not our sentiment. We will share "fringe" techniques that allow you to move fast.

Getting Started Every type o f climbing is potentially dangerous, and speed climbing isn't any different; but i f you are afraid, you won't be able t o move as fast as you can. You should know your safety system so well that you can make last-minute changes without hesitation. At belays you want to stay clipped into two independent and secure links, but these two links might not be what you're used to. When climbing fast on multipitch routes, the typical sequence o f events should go something like this. The lead climber blasts up the pitch with reckless abandon . . . That's what you expected right? Going fast by being reckless? No, the leader moves efficiently and safely up the pitch and yells down a one-minute (or two-minute) warning as she gets close to the next anchor. This allows the belayer t o get ready t o move by breaking down unnecessary anchor points, putting on his backpack, lacing up

Chandlee Harrell having fun on a aay-long push up Tis-sa-ack.(Gregory Murplly)

his shoes-getting ready to rock. The instant the leader says "Off belay," and then "Rope fixed" or "On belay," the follower can start up. Up to now, it's been assumed that there is a fixed anchor station at the end o f the pitch, or at least a clear belay location. In the event that there is no clear belay, the second might yell "30 feet!" so the leader knows she's approaching the end o f the line. This gives the leader time to decide where to set up a belay. Occasionally you will not find a solid belay spot before running out o f rope. I f this situation is likely to occur, you should discuss a plan o f action with your partner before leaving the ground. The likely outcome may be to simul-climb until you reach a suitable belay. It should be standard procedure for the belayer to call out "Halfway!" when half o f the rope has been consumed by the leader. This gives the leader some idea o f her climbing rate and her location on the pitch. She can use this information to decide where to belay and how to use the remaining pieces on the rack.

Leader Responsibilities 1. Once at the anchor, the leader should get herself o f f belay so the sec-

ond can start getting ready to move. The key to climbing fast is keeping both climbers as busy as possible. When the leader reaches the belay location, the belayer can't do anything productive until the leader calls down "Off belay." Then the belayer can take the belay device off and work on leaving the lower belay location. 2. The leader should fix the rope for the follower or put him on belay.

The goal is to accomplish this before the second is ready to climbeliminating wasted time waiting for a belay. When belaying the second, pull up all slack BEFORE the belay device is attached. 3. The leader should get the haul bag (if there is one) off the lower

anchor and prepare to haul so the belayer can completely take down the lower anchor. 4. I f the second is climbing rather than jugging, the leader should haul

the bag to the top anchor and belay at the same time. 5. The leader should set the haul bag so it is ready for the next lead. 6. The leader should be organizing the ropes and gear, placing the f i r s t

pieces o f the next pitch, or getting the pieces ready. 7. Finally, the leader should eat, drink, and get comfortable.

MULTlPlTCH CLIMBS

21

Luw-al igle Telrrain A lot of tlme can be lost setting up belays. Whiltt belays ; Lre crucial,

,. .lot always necessary to have three equallzea pleces. In fact, i t is sometimes qu ite suffic ient and safe to have no pieces in tii e belay ia t all. Ift h e leader can dlrop dowri over anI edge or crouch i !n DOUIClers, sne can aaequately Delay a secona on low-angle terrain. In this situation a hip be1lay can be faster ixnd just a tradit:ional be1lay. Frequentl)I I (B.W.) encounter this s i t uation in the Flati~ rons a b o~e ~ Boulcjer. Man!y o f the c:limbs art:fairly low-angle, and I oft.en lead :111 . , ., ,, . , . the pItches. lf I'm comtortable sololng I can run up a - the ground, vroute much fa ster usin15 this teclinique. A, follower that fall! ie angle slab wit1h no slac k in the tmope doe!j not put much fc .. , ,, .. ,. . ,. rnnp and can easlly De held w ~ t h a h ~ Delay. p rractlce this! .he key t c moving fast isn't necessat~ i l yclimb ing withc)ut proteco switch quickly fi-om simulI r w i t h ot~t a belayI, but bei~ ng able t~ I

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Equipment Double duty can be tricky. How do you put on the pack and tie your shoes while you are belaying the leader? How do you haul the bag and belay the second at the same time? Practice is one answer, but modem technology helps a lot as well. Using a Crigri t o belay allows the belayer to drop his hands from the device without the risk o f dropping the climber (or you can use a Trango Cinch as a substitute for the Crigri). It is ironic that the Crigri has found the most use in two widely disparate subcultures o f climbing: sport climbing and speed climbing. Rock Exotica's Wall Hauler or Petzl's Mini Traxion are also extremely handy for hauling the bag. These simple devices are light and easy t o use. Combine the Crigri with the Wall Hauler, and hauling and belaying simultaneously becomes a reasonable chore. The Kong Ci-Ci and the Petzl Reverso also allow for toprope belaying where hands-free moments do not sacrifice a safe belay.

22

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D B m E R

Leading in Blocks Climbing can be tiring, and you don't climb as fast when you're tired. You could think o f climbing in the traditional manner as a series o f intervals. When "swinging leads," the leader works his way up the pitch and gets to rest while the follower climbs the pitch. The follower is perhaps tired upon reaching the belay but still must plunge directly into the next lead. Once, I (B.W.) was climbing Pervertical Sanctuary on the Diamond o f Longs Peak. My partner, George, had just followed the crux pitch and was too pumped t o lead the next pitch, which was also quite hard. I led it so that we could keep moving. At the next belay, the same thing happened, only this time, a storm was imminent. George could have led the next pitch, but I was fresher and would be faster, and now we really needed the speed. The hail storm hit us minutes after I finished the final lead. Frequently, swinging leads isn't the most optimal way to climb-for speed, or even for redpointing. Also, there is a certain amount o f mental preparation that goes into leading. Once a climber is in that mode, it is sometimes more efficient to stay in there. Leading in blocks is a way to preserve leader mind-set and momentum, and to allow the most rested climber to move first. A block is a consecutive collection o f pitches led by the same leader. When the Nose was first climbed in a day, it was broken up into three giant blocks; each block was assigned to the most proficient climber for the type o f climbing in that block. This allowed one person to psyche up for the duties o f moving the team quickly up the wall, giving his all before dropping into a supportive role. Since then, this technique has been used more often than not on speed ascents. How long is a block? The route and the team will dictate how the route is broken into blocks. A block might be as few as a couple o f pitches on a short route, 10 pitches on a big wall, or even 31 pitches, as on the speed record ascent o f the Nose. Leading can be stressful; i t can be very satisfjling; and i t can be both at the same time. How long a person stays in the lead will depend on a lot o f factors including the following: Does the leader need a break from the stress? Has the team reached an agreed upon pitch or time allotment for the leader? Is there a good ledge to perform the switch? Has the climbing changed character, now requiring the skills o f the other partner?

MULTlPlTCH CLIMBS

23

Belays and Changeovers When the leader yells, "Two minutes," the follower gets everything ready so she can jump on the ascenders or climb the pitch. I f the anchor is bomber, I usually take it all down, but remain clipped to one good piece. When the leader is at the top anchor and the follower is at the bottom anchor, no upward progress is being made. Don't let this last long-do something to change it! A classic problem happens when the climber at the top anchor yells "Off belay," and the bottom climber doesn't hear the leader. They both sit there for fifteen minutes before one says, "Hey, are you climbing or what?" Be sure every verbal or signal command you give your partner gets answered. For "Off belay," answer "Okay, you're o f f belay." For any command ("Rope is fixed," "Bag ready t o haul," etc.) at least give an "Okay" in response so that your partner knows that you heard her. It's best to agree with your partner on verbal commands prior to climbing. You should use definitive words, and maybe even decide on a set number o f syllables for each command. This way a garbled command will not be mistaken for a different command. Don't use "Yeah" and "Nay," instead use "Yes" and "No." I f your lead partner yells "I'm o f f belay," don't answer "Off belay!" Your partner might think you're asking, "Off belay?" There is less chance o f misunderstanding i f you answer "Okay, belay is off." When you're at a busy cliff, follow all verbal communication with your partner's name. "You're o f f belay, Bill." Consider walkie-talkies for even better communication. On a route when verbal communication is impossible, establish a set o f "rope commands" with your partner. I have a set o f rope commands that I use with all my regular partners. It never hurts t o review these commands at the start o f a,climb. I use three sharp tugs on the rope to mean "off belay." Two more sharp tugs on the rope means the follower is "on belay." When in doubt the second should wait for the rope to come tight to make sure he is on belay. Move up a bit (ideally still clipped to the anchors), and see i f the rope becomes tight again. An important note: Only the leader uses these rope commands. The second should never pull sharply on the rope for obvious reasons. I f the follower is jugging and not leading the next pitch, she should stay on the ascenders upon arriving at the belay anchor and resist clipping into the anchor immediately (see Figure 2-1). Remember the goal is to get the

24

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D B E l T E R

leader moving as soon as possible. The follower just trusted her jugs for the whole pitch; why not just hang on them while the leader gets set to go? The second unclips her end o f the rope, gives i t to the leader, and immediately puts him on belay. Switching ends o f the rope is key because the follower's end o f the rope is hanging free from the belay and is ready to go immediately. There is no need to go through the sometimes complex process o f unweighting the belay so that the leader can get unclipped. Also, when the second clips into the leader's end, she is already anchored to the belay. I cannot stress enough how easy and fast this makes changeovers-especially at hanging belays. While the second is doing this, the leader can be pulling gear o f f the follower and arranging it on her harness or rack. These two jobs can be done by both follower and leader. Do what works best for your circumstances, but keep both o f the climbers working when you're at the anchor. It may be that the leader or follower is still hauling while the other is racking and preparing for the leader to leave the belay. I f the leader is ready to go, and the bag is not at the anchor, and there is little or no chance o f the bag getting stuck, then the leader can start offwhile the belayer simultaneously hauls and belays. O f course, the hauling device must be returned to the leader before she gets too far along. Remember: When both or all the climbers are at the anchor, everyone should be doing something! This is a point where no upward progress is being made, so don't l e t it last long. Bust your butts t o get the leader o f f the anchor. This is a perfect example o f shaving two to thirty minutes o f f a pitch. Yes, I've seen changeovers at a hanging belay take thirty minutes or more. Feel a sense o f urgency here; it won't last long. Once the leader

is o f f and gaining altitude, there will be plenty o f time for the belayer to relax. Develop a set routine for belay anchor and changeover activities. Once the leader leaves the anchor, the belayer should be moving ascenders o f f the rope and going direct to the anchor. The belayer's primary responsibility is to keep the leader moving. To this end, her first task should be to organize gear and ropes. Once this is done, she can start eating and drinking. An alternative to using two carabiners is t o have the leader pull up all, or some, o f the rope before fixing. When the follower arrives at the anchor, he can send the leader o f f on that section o f rope, then work to unclip the knots from the anchor while belaying.

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25

Second jugs to anchor and then stays on the ascenders to swap gear, switch ends o f rope, and belay for leader.

Hans lowering out of the pendulumfi-om Sickle to the Dolt Hole crack. Note that Hans isfollowing this pitch, not leading it. (Tom Evans)

A final note: Be efficient about the gear transfer. Incidentally, most people not only call it the "handoff" o f gear, they actually hand o f f the gear to each other. This is a waste o f movement. Why not just clip the gear onto the leader?The leader could pull gear o f f you and clip it to herself while you're also clipping gear t o her, or doing something else.

Three-person Aid Teams Have the leader take up a trail line. When the leader arrives at the belay anchor, she should fix the ropes. When the second gets to the leader, she can take over the lead or belay the first leader on the line she just jugged. When the third climber arrives, the leader can build a quick temporary MULTlPlTCH CLIMBS

27

Joe Terravecchia on the No Escape Apron in the Tetons. (George I. Bell)

anchor and lower a loop o f slack down to retrieve the other rope end and any gear cleaned from the last pitch. If a party has three ropes, the leader can haul a bag on the third line while the two followers are jugging. The follower that is likely to get to the leader f i r s t should bring up the end o f the trail line i f they are not hauling on the third line. A pitch that might take forty minutes or more to clean only takes five minutes to jug on a free line. If the leader put in a ton o f gear and has little or no gear left to start leading the next pitch, make sure the person jugging the free line takes any gear possible from the lower anchor and pulls out any gear along the pitch that is easy to clean. Then the leader has some gear and can continue up while you're waiting for the person cleaning the pitch below. The free-line jugger often can remove pieces above the person cleaning the pitch, which makes the swing on traverses go easier. The opposite is true as well; clean accordingly. When a pitch is overhanging, consider clipping in the trail line a few times during the pitch because it is easier and faster when the follower can "drive" off the wall while jugging.

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SPEED CLIMBING! H O W T O CLIMB FASTER A N D B m E R

2:48! by Hans Florine Yuji Hirayama stayed at my Yosemite home for a few weeks in the fall o f 2002. As usual, he was cruising most o f the hardest free climbing routes all over Yosemite. Since I had helped Yuji on a few o f his projects over the years, he thought to offer running up the Nose with me for a lark. Yuji had done it earlier that year with his friend Tomatsu in a respectable sub eight-hour time. Timmy O'Neill and Dean Potter held the current record at 3:24, set in the fall o f 2001. I drove up to Yosemite from the San Francisco Bay Area on the eve o f September 20, and Yuji and I set o f f up the Nose early the next mornlng. We passed no less than seven parties as we simul-climbed, short-fixed, counter-weighted; we used all our tricks and sped to a time o f 3:27! We figured that you should get a one-minute "deduction" for each party passed, so we should be "awarded" the record time, no? NOT! We knew we couldn't pull that shenanigan. Yuji had a huge smile on his face from that ascent and he was stunned that we turned in such a fast time. He was hooked! Yuji had me come up again from the Bay Area on the eve ofSeptember 28, and on the morning o f September 29, Yuji and I climbed the Nose on El Capitan again. Yuji led the whole route. We simul-climbed about 2,450 feet, and I jugged whileYuji short-fixed and self-belayed for about 500 feet. Except for our friends, Bill and Lou, at the top ofthe first pitch taking pictures, we didn't have to pass any parties. We handed off gear at the sixth pitch, (leaving Sickle), at the seventeenth pitch (King Swing), at the twenty-first pitch (Great Roof), and at the twenty-fifth and twentyseventh pitches (Camps V and VI). At both the sixth and seventeenth pitch pendulums, we counter-weighted so that I was pulled up while Yuji was lowering. We used a Yates Rocker on the top o f Dolt Tower, at the top o f pitch 18, and on the last bolted anchor before the tree finish. These three places were chosen as places where 1 was simul-climbing on relatively hard terrain andYuji was on relatively easy terrain. Any other combination would have called for short-fixing or "normal" simul-climbing.

We started at 7:15 A.M. It was a bit cold at the start, my hands barely staying warm enough to feel the pin scars on the first three pitches. After that, the temperatures were perfect. Upon reaching Sickle ledge, I checked the watch and a touch more than sixteen minutes had gone by since we began the route! That was almost three minutes faster than it had taken us on our attempt one week before. I've timed this route many times and Sickle ledge is almost always onetenth the route time for a speed ascent. I was gasping for breath as we entered the Stovelegs at the seventh pitch. Luckily, I had a minute to rest there, as I waited forYuji to get more than two pieces between us. The next check point was Camp 4, which marks the halfhay point for speed ascents. We arrived at one hour and twenty-eight minutes! During the great roof pitch and all the top sections o f the route, I was rapidly switching from simul-climbing to jugging to standard belaying to aid climbing, and back through them all. I managed to keep from going anaerobic, until the last 100 feet-where I pushed hard knowing

I could collapse on top. Which I did, at 10:03 A.M. We set the record at two hours, forty-eight minutes, and fifty-five seconds. This was terribly fun and rewarding. The Nose is my favorite route in the world. Covering so much beautiful granite in a pleasant morning was paradise. We carried one #3 Camalot, one #2, two #Is, one 0.75, one 0.5, and doubles below that. We also carried six nuts, one cam hook, one etrier, seventeen quickdraws, eighteen free biners, six long runners, one Powergel each, one liter ofwater each, one ten-ounce can o f UpTime drink, a Crigri, a couple o f lockers, Petzl jugs, and a set ofYates Speedy Stirrups. We highly recommend this gear checklist for folks looking for a sub-five-hour tour o f the greatest route on the planet!

Far better it is to dare the m i g h v things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the grey twilight that knows not victoty nor defeat. -Theodore Roosevelt

Stickyour neck out every once in awhile. It's good for the soul. -Bill Wright, our translation! This chapter is a collection o f ideas for speeding things up. The tips are in no particular order, but they are grouped together under three headings: leading, aid climbing, and cleaning. I (H.F.) have given people some speed tips in the past and invariably they'll comment on one or two o f my tips by saying, "That'll only save two minutes. What's the point?" The point is that ifyou save two minutes at every belay on a 30-pitch route, you've cut an hour o f f your time on the whole route. That hour could mean the difference between topping out when it's still light or topping out in the dark, or topping out before the afternoon thunderstorms hit, or getting stranded on the wall while the storm rages. Simply put, i f t give people four or five "two-minute tips" for every pitch on the Nose, that'll equal around five hours saved. Five hours saved translates into one less gallon o f water t o be hauled, four fewer energy bars to be carried, etc. The point is that each little speed technique you master adds up.

Tips for Leading Stay in the lead. It is strategically better (in this context that means

faster) to keep the same leader throughout the whole climb. But if you must switch, leading in blocks is better than switching every pitch. Keeping the same leader means she can recover from each pitch while waiting for you to follow. She gets used to racking the gear the way she likes, and you figure out how she likes it racked. I recommend, for the sake o f speed, working out an agreement with your partner; for example, she can lead all o f the Nose if you get to lead all o f the SalathC. Time limit for leader. Recently, Mark Melvin pointed out to me that you should consider giving each climber a s e t time to lead rather than dividing up pitches. Because speed climbing is about time, each climber should lead the same amount o f time. So, one partner leads for three hours and the other leads for three hours. This seems like an equitable arrangement for non-speed climbing as well. Timing your leads makes you keenly aware o f your pace on the route and can help tremendously when you need to consider important decisions like retreating or pushing on. It can also quell frustration between partners o f different abilities and speed, in that neither will get stuck with more belay "duty." We wrote earlier about the advantages o f leading in blocks, so you might want to consider using blocks o f time rather than pitches. Obviously, you shouldn't stop the leader in the middle o f a pitch just because the clock runs out, but you can use the clock as a guide; change the lead where the terrain dictates within a general time frame. Placing gear. When free climbing, try to place gear at your chest or below. This is a good practice to use whenever you climb, including sport climbing, and it is particularly relevant to speed climbing. The gear you place won't take up valuable handholds, plus you won't use extra effort placing the piece high. Why bring up that loop o f slack to clip in? It is a wasted action. The tendency to place gear above your head is motivated by security. With gear above your head, you are basically toproping. In speed climbing you are quickly above the piece you just placed (or the bolt you just clipped), so the advantage o f clipping above your head is reduced almost immediately after placing it. Another reason for placing gear above your head is to postpone the next placement as long as possible. This is not as important when speed climbing because gear is usually placed farther apart. 32

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D BE-TTER

Greg Murpby on a record ascent oJ the Shzeld. (Hans Florine)

Be smart about gear placement. Save pieces you will need up high. Burn a #I cam if you have two o f them rather than using your only #2. Think o f fixed gear as a free extension o f your rack. Use i t liberally, but realize that this gear is suspect. Fixed gear has blown out on climbers, and you need to be aware o f the consequences. After running out a long section o f moderate free climbing, don't clip into one fixed piece and start aiding. The consequences o f this piece blowing out are huge. After a long runout, you need to place a solid piece, and one old copperhead is not going to do it. Once you've clipped a bomber piece, start using the fixed gear. Favor using the fixed gear low on a lead or pitch when it is available. Higher on the pitch you can always use that cam as a draw or a cam, but draws can only be used as draws. Your knot. Tie into the rope with the knot close to your waist, which

makes i t easy t o keep your waist close to your high piece-an advantage when aid climbing. This also makes clipping ergonomically easier because you don't have to reach below your waist to grab the rope to clip. Once when I (B.W.) was on Astroman, I tied in with too much o f a loop. For most o f the climb, this wasn't a problem, but when I tried to follow the Harding Slot, the knot pulled up into the middle o f my chest-the thickest part o f my body. I was too wide to fit through the slot and ended up

having t o batman up outside the slot. I could have solved the problem by calling for slack so the knot would drop below my waist, but I was having problems making progress up this horribly tight passage. Efficient movement. Certain climbing techniques are more efficient

than others. When trying for speed, liebacking a crack may go faster than jamming i t straight in. Liebacking is almost always quicker when ascending off-width sections. The disadvantage? It is much harder to place gear from a lieback position. Be conscious o f other alternatives.

Tips for Aid Climbing Etriers. Use four-step etriers instead o f five-step. For about 95 percent

o f aid placements, you are not on the bottom step o f your etrier. For the other five percent o f the placements, just add a quickdraw to the etrier to get the length. Also, use light etriers. You don't want your feet getting comfortable. You want an incentive to move. Using different color etriers helps decipher what's what in the tangle. I use red for right and lemon for left. I designed a pair o f etriers for Yates that are light and

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SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D BE7TER

_

.--

F

Fear versus Speed by Chris McNamara, Yosemite speed climber The secret to taking two hours instead o f six hours on a hard aid pitch rated A3-A5 is a matter o f managing fear. The terrified climber makes slow, overly cautious movements, rarely gets higher than her third step, and often spends ten extra minutes trying to get the "perfect" placement when a fast and only slightly less secure piece would do the trick.

T h e speed climber, however, manages her fear and takes a much different approach. She gives each piece a solid bounce test, gets in her aiders, and marches right up to the second or top step. She realizes that once she has weighted a piece, she is committed, and there is no sense worrying about whether the piece will hold or not. One trick she uses is to imagine that the piece, even if it appears marginal, is as bomber as a giant, H-inch bolt, confidently telling herself, "This piece held for the last ten people, and there is no reason it is going t o come out on me." Free o f unnecessary fear, the movement up the pitch becomes fast, fluid, and much more fun.

Cam hooks. Become comfortable with cam hooks. Your first impression o f a cam hook may be that there i s no way in hell this thing will hold you. However, once you play around with them a little, you will find that these remarkable gadgets hold body weight in a variety o f placements and save tons oftime. On many pitches it is possible t o put one cam hook on each aider and leapfrog them up long sections, saving hours o f fiddling around with pitons or stoppers.

Miscellaneous Tips 1. Do not over-drive pitons.

2. To extend your reach another foot on hook placements, place the hook on top o f your hammer and then slide i t up the wall.

3. Create a mini-cheat stick by intertwining two stoppers together. T h i s way you can extend your reach by one or two feet when trying t o lasso rivets with no hangers.

4. Climb with lightweight biners such as the Black Diamond Neutrino or Kong Helium. This can take many pounds o f f a full aid rack.

comfortable. (Many climbers use aid ladders instead o f or in addition to etriers. Nearly all o f my comments are the same for aid ladders. We will use the term "etriers" for both.) Some aid leaders use two sets o f two etriers. One set is lighter and simpler, which usually translates into speed. On very difficult aid leads and continuously overhanging terrain, there might be an advantage to having two sets, though neither o f us have ever used two, preferring to go light and simple. Another etrier tip: Once you've clipped the aider to the piece and bounce-tested it, immediately climb to the top or second step in your etriers. Don't waste time hanging out "down low." Aid-to-free transition. Often A3 pitches have quick and easy 5.9 moves that can save you stacks o f time if you're willing to get out o f your etriers. I (H.F.) have seen too many 5.1 2 climbers waste ten minutes fiddling with a hook or placing a nut when they could have free climbed a 5.10 move in seconds. Get used to the idea o f getting in and out o f your etriers. Practice making frequent transitions from aid t o free climbing and back again. Actually, you should practice transitioning from free climbing to French free climbing to crack jumaring to aid climbing. . . you get the point. I f you find i t difficult to step out o f your etriers and bring them with you at the same time, consider leaving them behind while you free climb a section. Once above the free section, place a solid piece, lower down to retrieve the etriers, and winch yourself back up to your high point by batmanning up the belayer's side o f the rope. I f you bring the etriers with you, be careful that you don't step on the trailing etriers. If aid climbing is over for the pitch, invest your time in balling up the etriers so they don't dangle down by your feet. Wear climbing shoes. Wearing comfortable climbing shoes will always increase your speed, even if it's A5. You are still climbing. Don't settle into the mentality that you're just engineering your way up the wall

standing in etriers. You should be constantly switching between aid and free climbing. While I (B.W.) was climbing the Chouinard-Herbert on Sentinel Rock, my partner didn't bother to put on his climbing shoes because he thought he was only aid climbing or jugging that day. Later, on what should have been a trivial fourth-class lead, he found himself making some 5.5 moves. In his climbing shoes he would have made short work o f this pitch; but without the confidence provided by good shoes, he

spent more than an hour leading it. Wear your climbing shoes and keep the free climber's desire to move fast.

Pin scars. When encountering pin scars, consider hand-placingthe pins rather than bashing them in with a hammer. Think o f it as a hook move. Use a hook. Cam hooks are a godsend to speed climbers and frequently work great in pin scars. This not only saves time leading but also cleaning. Use Black Diamond Peckers, A5 Beaks, Splitter Gear 2cams, and Pica Too-Cans like hooks in pin scars rather than pounding them in. Not only will they clean faster for the second, but the leader can easily pull these gadgets out and leapfrog them up a section. Previously, technology would require the leader t o sew it up with pitons. Cams place and clean faster than nuts. When you have plenty o f cams, use them before nuts even when there's a bomber V-slot.

Crack jumaring. When faced with a continuous crack, like on the headwall o f the Salathk, clip a few o f the appropriate pieces to the top o f each etrier. Leapfrog the etriers up the crack, like a Versaclimber. You won't need to go back searching on your rack for the next piece. This is called crack jumaring (see Figure 3-1).

FIGURE 3-1

/I--

With a continuous crack, clip a couple o f cams on your etriers and leapfrog them up the crack. This is called crack jumaring.

SPEED CLIMBING TIPS

37

Crack jumaring is moving up a crack via etriers attached to pieces o f protection. Usually the pieces o f protection are camming units because they are easier to remove after being weighted. The piece is not placed and l e f t behind but clipped directly t o the etrier. Once you are standing on the top etrier, you slide up the bottom etrier to just below the top one, transfer your weight onto the bottom etrier, and move the top one up. Leapfrogging the etriers allows for greater movement with each placement but might be more awkward than the "inchworm" approach. Use what f i t s the situation best. The motion is similar to climbing a fixed line, although in practice it takes longer and can only be done efficiently with very uniform cracks (and Yosemite is particularly rich in this category). Try to keep your foot applying a little downward pressure on the etrier while moving the unweighted etrier up like you were jugging a fixed line. This saves a tremendous amount o f time with every movement o f the etrier. If you had to replace your foot in the etrier each time, your speed would be cut in half.

Cleaning Tips Racking gear. Rack gear on a sling as you clean, and rack the way the

leader prefers so he doesn't have to re-rack it. Just hand o f f the sling to the leader when you reach the belay anchor. Clip gear on the biner with a piece that's similar in size (one biner per piece is faster). This reduces the number o f times you hand gear to your partner, allows for a quick inventory o f your different cam sizes, and eliminates a horizontally expanding rack (see Figure 3-2). Also, clip two or three draws together so that you can hand off more than one at a time. Saving energy. Wait until gear is at your chest or below to remove i t

from the rock. Your arms tire more quickly if they are above your head. Ascenders. Even if briefly, try t o hang in your harness from ascenders

rather than on your arms when cleaning a piece. This gives you a minirest as well as two hands to fiddle with the gear. You will need to place ascenders above the pieces. Either unclip the piece or take the ascender o f f and move i t above the piece. Practice taking ascenders on and o f f the rope with one hand. Adjustable rack. I f there is a big difference in height and size between

you and your partner, it is worth having an adjustable gear sling, or a small one and a large one. I f you use an adjustable gear sling, be sure it is quick to adjust and foolproof (i.e. won't ever come undone). ~

-

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SPEED C L I M B I N G ! HOW TO C L I M B FASTER A N D B E l T E R

Grouped rack

Horizontally expanding rack

Cleaning draws. When cleaning draws off a bolt, unclip from the rope first, and then the bolt hanger, so the straight gate is in your hand and ready to place on the sling, rack, or harness. Slippery hands option: Unclip from the bolt; and while the bent gate is still clipped to rope, clip the straight gate to the sling, rack, or harness, then unclip the bent gate from rope. Both methods have the same number o f hand movements.

SPEED CLIMBING TIPS

39

Jugging. Practice ambidextrous jugging. I f you are cleaning a traverse or diagonal pitch, i t is easier to lead with the correct ascender. For example, lead with the left hand i f the pitch goes left. While jugging easy terrain on a traverse, like a third-class ledge, i t is faster for the leader to belay you while you're on your ascenders than for you to slide your ascenders along. At the end o f the traverse, the leader can re-fix the line and you can continue jugging. Adjusting your etriers and jugging setup. Take the time to adjust your leg stirrups or etriers under your ascenders. I f the angle o f the climbing is steep, you want your feet a little closer to your ascenders. I f your right leg is getting tired, lengthen your right etrier, and vice versa. I designed a leg loop for jugging for Yates called Speed Stirrups. It's a foot stirrup with an adjustable length. Metolius makes a similar item called an Easy Aider that works as well. Both eliminate the hassle o f a bunch o f aid ladder or etrier loops dangling around your feet while jugging. I went for years just tying a foot loop in a one-inch piece o f webbing and using a clove hitch for adjustment-also better than an etrier for jugging. Take the time to adjust the distance from your ascenders to your waist. As the angle o f climbing gets steeper-and/or you get tired-you want to shorten this distance. This is only critical on the "lead ascender" because your waist will be on that ascender. The lower ascender tether should never be short enough to restrict movement. Lower outs. I f you know the route has big lower outs, bring leaver biners and a small lower-out line. Pendulums. To keep from tripping, take your feet out o f the etriers or jugging foot loops for big pendulums and lower outs. Forego the use o f a hero loop or lower-out line if the pendulum swing is low-angle and you can control your swing by smearing, edging, or running. Be sure to check that the rope won't be rubbing on an edge. Rope management. When there isn't any potential for the rope to snag, and especially if the pitch is straight up, I will t i e in short once to have less rope weight on the brake end when belaying the next pitch, not as a safety back up. Obviously, i f the wind is blowing the rbpe around and it might snag, or i f the terrain is subject to snagging the rope, tie in a few times as needed. Time taken organizing the rope is better than going back down to unsnag it. When you belay with a Grigri and then jug, leave the Grigri on the rope and pull the rope down through it. Eventually the rope weight will

40

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D BE-TTER

Hans Florine and Chandlee Hawell on West Buttress record speed ascent. This is a dtficult traversing pitch to fillow. (Tom Evans)

be pulled.through the device and you'll have automatic backup behind your ascenders. A Crigri is also useful for lowering out on traverses. Cleaning a traverse. When cleaning a traverse, it saves time i f you do not tie in short! People often recommend tying in short. I have never had a Petzl ascender fail on me. People fail to put ascenders on the rope correctly, but ascenders do not fail. Ascender accidents are due to improper use 99 percent o f the time. Learn to place ascenders correctly on the rope-learn this well-and then tie in short ifyou must! In regard to tying in short. In general, I will always have myself connected twice to the rock or rope system. For example, if I'm tied into the rope at an anchor, the rope is tied in with at least two knots, or I'm in with one knot and a daisy chain or sling. When transferring from one rope end to another, I might momentarily only be into the anchor with a sling or daisy. When jugging a traverse, you've been weighting both ascenders for the length o f the rope below you, so essentially you've been body-weight testing each ascender alternately. For a second or two, you remove one, lift it

SPEED CLIMBING TIPS

41

over a piece, and place it immediately back on the rope, as is the case on a traverse. You have just relied on one connection to the system for the time i t took you t o move that ascender over the piece. Remember, the one connection you're on has been "tested" numerous times on the ascent up the rope to that point. This seems safer than what many folks do at belay anchors. I am always clipped or tied in to the end and/or the middle o f the rope in addition to being clipped into the two ascenders. You should be too. So while jugging you're connected three times.

Satan's Minions Scra By Bill Wrr From: Bill Wrb To: Scramblers ct: Angel's ; Way tom

limbers,

b trailhea .ow at 5:: meet at: the Devi A.M.- -yes, 5:3 0. The plan is to r.un up Bftar Canyc,n Trail to the Mesa ,l v,.u l l.. -rL.-... ,A 'l", \ Trail to Skunk,r-, L d l. I llrll v\le'll solo r \ l l r e l 3 vVav (5.2 "1 caxcr). , u This is about ,foot clinib. Then we'll coritinue crc3ss-counl up c t 3 the surnmit o f (Sreen M I ountain iand descend the Green BE Tw:I 11 a-" r--.-., T W - i l .-..A h--I, . ti.., , It .*,; II h , -LA We'r

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nerves of steel, ti1reless Iegs, and huge lun,gs. bhou~dbe a blast! (Oncce we get out o f bed that i s . . . ) l \lo one M/ill be left behind, but know what y'ou are gc2 t c.-..-hI;-= \A/. ?,'I1 Lo ;- to tina IllLv. ILVL3- , VI IUIIlling and lots o f eaayaLraIaIvlllly. V Y C VT

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work. by 8:30

A.M.

From :Tim Nich:les To: K evin Hamiv Sent: Monday, IMay 22, i . I, . Subjen: fingel s vvay romorrow! r

3 P.M.

. a ,

PEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER AND BETTER

Here's the e-mail describing that run/hike/scramble tomorrow morning. Basically, I think there is no way I am doing this. From: Kevin Hamm To: Tim Nickles Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000; 2:54 P.M. Subject: Angel's Way tomorrow! Jesus Christ! This Bill Wright fellow sounds like one o f Satan's minions. My advice to you is to avoid him at all costs. Thus our little band o f scramblers got our name. Henceforth we have been known as Satan's Minions Scrambling Club. We'd have earlymorning "meetings" twice a week in the Flatirons above Boulder and have thousands o f pitches o f rock all to ourselves. We'd only see other people when we descended t o the cars after the adventure. The desire to mix trail running with climbing came from our competing interests in training for the Pikes Peak Marathon, climbing, and mixing training with busy work/family schedules. By meeting very early on weekday mornings we'd only sacrifice sleep. As Dennis Rodman says, "I'll sleep when I'm dead." But while we're still alive, we have things to get done. Another motivating factor was the Book ofArmaments, more commonly known as Gerry Roach's Guide to Flatiron Climbs. This charming, out-of-print guide lists a few hundred climbing routes, ofwhich fiftythree are designated "classics." Roach then names the best ofthe best as the Top Ten. Hardly Manson and I did all ten In ten and a half hours in October 2001 when we found out that B u n Burrell, local ultra-everything man, had done the routes in just more than fifteen hours. Bill Briggs later did the linkup in six and a half hours! Most o f Roach's routes are relatively moderate climbs in the third class to 5.5 range.This is a range where most club members are comfortable soloing the route in just a sticky rubber approach shoe. These shoes are a cross between climbing shoes and running shoes. We'd usually leave the car with only a CamelBak, but on tougher climbs we'd bring a rope and simul-climb the route. The regulars consist o f John "Homie" Prater, Mark "I Got Your White Rim Right Here!" Oveson, George "Trashman" Bell, B u n Burrell, and many others. Once, we took Damon Lease, a visiting

colleague, along. It was Damon's first experience with climbing and I suspect a rather unusual introduction. I can imagine the discussion that took place when he visited a more traditional climbing club back in Vermont: Experienced Climber: We'll be heading out for a five-pitch 5.4 rock climb tomorrow, so be ready. I realize you've only climbed a few times before. Damon: That's right. Just twice before. So, five pitches. Hmm, that will take about an hour, right? Experienced Climber: An hour!? Clearly you don't have much experience. No, each pitch will take about thirty to forty minutes to climb. Damon: Hmmm. v a t isn't how I've done it in the past. Why does it take so long? Do you place protection when you lead7 Experienced Climber: O f course we place protection! That's what the "5" in "5.4" means! Who'd you climb with before?Sounds like beginners who didn't know what they were doing. Good thing you didn't get killed. Now, remember to bring your hiking shoes tomorrow. Damon: Hiking shoes? Aren't they difficult to run in? Experienced Climber: Running? How'd we get on the subject o f running? I said we're going climbing tomorrow. Are you listening? Damon: I thought we ran into the climbs. 1 guess it's sort o f steep on the approach, but don't you run out from the climbs? Experienced Climber: No, we don't run. We hike in and out. You can't run while wearing a pack full o f climbing gear. Damon: What gear do we need besides a harness, rope, and maybe shoes? Experienced Climber: Boy, you sure don't know much about climbing. You need your ten essentials, food, water, extra clothes, climbing rack, Figure 8, belay device, slings, prusiks, rappel gloves, headlamp, guidebook, etc. It's a lot o f stuff. We'll be out most o f the day. Damon: Most ofthe day??!! I assumed i f it was only five pitches that we'd be back in time for breakfast. My kid's got a soccer game at 9:00 A.M. Experienced Climber: You thought we'd be done with climbing at 9:00 A.M.??!! Damon: No, I thought we'd be done more like 7:30 A.M., but figured we had to run out and drive home. I assumed I'd be in the shower by 8:30 A.M.

Experienced Climber: Are we talking about the same sport? Damon: Apparently not. Experienced Climber: Who did you go climbing with before? Damon: These Colorado guys. They even bitched about bringing a climbing rope with them. They told me to show up in my running gear. Eiperienced Climber: See, that is a different sport. They were more like trail runners. That's not climbing. Damon: Except that we did five- to ten-pitch 5.2 to 5.7 routes. Experienced Climber: Hmmm, something isn't right here. I don't think we're communicating. SMSC "disorganizes" a few "non-events" each year on the Flatirons above Boulder. To the casual observer these would look like races

. . . maybe

even t o the not-so-casual observer. Our longest-

running event is the Third Flatiron TimeTrial. The time trial breaks up naturally into four sections: approach, East Face route (eight pitches o f 5.2 climbing), rappel a fixed line, and run out. The total vertical gain is 1,600 feet and it covers about four total miles. Looking at the Third Flatiron from Chautauqua Park, it is nearly inconceivable that the round-trip has been done in less than thirtyfive minutes. This event started small, but it grows each year as others discover the joy o f moving quickly and o f competing. Is this a fringe event? Absolutely! But this i s a fringe book as well. You can view a complete report on this event and others by following the

links on

the

Flatirons speed records page a t

www.wwwright.com/climbing/speed/flatirons. htm.

God has given me the abiliy. The rest is up to me. Believe. Believe. Believe. -Billy Mills, gold medalist in the 1964 Tokyo Olympics Now we get into the weird and wild stuff o f advanced speed. When I (B.W.) first heard o f these techniques they seemed radical, but now that I've used them, they don't feel so strange. Simul-climbing is definitely different, but you might enjoy it. Are you ready for a new sensation? Each route will present "obstacles" that require imaginative problemsolving. For example, when the leader is lowering out, preparing for a pendulum, the leader's weight may be used to pull up the follower as the leader lowers. Be willing to break with traditional techniques if you can increase speed without compromising safety.

Simul-soloing On easy terrain, climbing unroped is an option that should be considered. Solo climbing is discussed in more detail in the next chapter. Simulsoloing is a variant o f team climbing where you happen to be unroped. You wouldn't rope up for a hiking approach, and simul-soloing is used on terrain somewhere between hiking and roped climbing. On blocky and loose terrain, often found on alpine routes, a rope can be more o f a hindrance than a help. Dragging a rope along such terrain merely causes rockfall. The simple fact o f the matter is that big alpine routes have a considerable amount ofterrain that is best covered with this technique. George Bell, Lou Lorber, and I were able t o climb the East Ridge o f Mt. Temple in a single fourteen-hour push, not so much because o f prodigious speed (it's been climbed a lot faster!), but because we simul-soloed the lower 2,000 feet, which was Class 3 and 4 with some easy Class 5 climbing. The level o f

difficulty where this technique is applicable will vary with the party, but it should be considered for covering long stretches o f easy ground.

Simul-climbing Most o f the time when you're simul-climbing, you're running it out a bit. You do this to conserve gear and because the terrain should be relatively moderate for you (otherwise you shouldn't be simul-climbing at all). The sole reason to simul-climb is so you and your partner can move at the same time. This is only valuable when climbing more than a single pitch, and simul-climbing frequently involves running many pitches together as one giant pitch. When Hans and Jim Herson set the speed record for the Regular Northwest Face o f Half Dome, they simul-climbed the entire route and only restocked the leader with gear once-thereby turning a 24-pitch route into two pitches. Hence, you either have to run things out more than usual, or climb with a bigger rack than you normally would. In practice it is usually a combination o f these two. I f the climb has lots o f fixed gear, your extra equipment can consist mostly o f more slings and biners. Simul-climbing is not safe. But you can certainly reduce the danger by holding fast to some rules. Rule Number One: The bottom person has to be 100 percent. He or she can never fall. I (H.F.) have suffered the consequences o f a bottom-person fall. I survived and won't gamble like that again. I was simul-climbing with Andres Puhvel on the Salathe Wall. I was in the lead on the fourth pitch and 12 feet above my last piece o f protection when Andres fell-he had pulled on a piece that failed. I was yanked immediately down to my last piece, which thankfully held. I suffered a bad rope burn on my leg and abrasions to my forearm and knee. The bottom person can never fall! (See Figure 4-1.) When a leader falls onto solid protection with a good belay, the shock is cushioned by the dynamic lead rope. Not only does the rope stretch by 10 to 15 percent, but the belayer might let some rope slip and he might be moved upward as well. All this reduces the impact on the leader. But when a second falls while simul-climbing, the leader is pulled directly into the last piece o f gear. If this piece holds, the leader will stop immediately, with no stretch in the rope-or anything else-to reduce the force. It will feel as i f he had hit the ground. O f course, the forces can be so great as to cause the protection to fail as well. If the leader falls during simul-climbing, the situation is not nearly as SIMUL-CLIMBING

47

Consequences o f the second falling can be catastrophic. The bottom person MUST NOT FALL!

bad (though still not recommended). During Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill's then-record ascent o f the Nose (three hours and twenty-four minutes in October 2002), O'Neill fell while simul-climbing in the lead on the second pitch. Dean was jerked up the route a bit, he being much larger than Timmy, and his weight caught Timmy's fall. They then continued on, albeit a bit more carefully. Imagine standing at the base o f a route that pushes your limit. Would you solo i t i f the consequences o f a fall were inflicted only on your partner and not you? Have you ever been out on a lead, way out on a lead, say 20 or more feet? You get sketched, and you visualize what the fall will

48

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW T O CLIMB FASTER A N D BElTER

rho Le:ads While Sinnul-clinnbing? -I.

w h o wants; to lead? Who wants the g;reater risk? . . . route finding a consideration? Who's the best route t~nderon e team? Ilees one o f the t e!am mem e I:he rout e wired? I f , she sho uld lead.

-

3. Who is fast

Icing solid protecttion?

4. Will one cli mber net!d a real belay on a few shc -I:-L -. - i ~ . h t be beb~11:c LI l -e w e r e ..LU CIII~IU second so

ns? If so, it climb on prope wi th greater confide!rice and hence greater speed. On tlhe her hancI , leadin!5 this secction mil;ht save a belay complett:ly because thle leader Iclimbs WIith a pseludo-lead belay an 0vicJed the gear he pl;aces is bc~mber). ,-.";-" eh,rn \AIL;.I., - t .-I;. 5. W h,. ;.- I.-.-- t 13 with D

I l u

.t 13 u c 3 L a L

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le hand? The botltom clim ber has t:he very

t

Pe

anagement. She nlust never hold u~) the leac re.. . . > r v ; n n ,.,h . . illy rn a dittlcult S L L L , ~ ,, v., lere the leader needs to move through fiftly. The: follower. also nef:ds to ke~ ep the sli~ c in k thc? rope to a inimum i n case of' a lead fa111, and b~ e very diliigent abcrut not gf3... ~gtraillng loops ot rope st1

-

be like. Maybe you have experienced such a fall. I've had a few such falls on steep sport routes and serious trad slabs-scary, but nothing compared to what would happen to you if you were 10 feet out while simulclimbing and your belayer jumped off the belay ledge, yanking you down to that last piece o f pro. Never put yourself or your partners in a simulclimbing situation where the bottom person on the rope might fall. Who's the leader?You might think the best climber leads, just like on a traditionally belayed climb at the crux pitch. After reading the last couple o f paragraphs, you might reconsider and say, "No, the best climber needs to go second because he absolutely can't fall." The real answer is, like so much in life, it "depends." Yes, it is absolutely catastrophic if the second climber falls while simul-climbing, but the truth o f the matter is that no one should be falling. I f the odds o f a fall were more than 1 percent, I'd belay the pitch and not simul-climb. I f one o f the climbers is more experienced at route

SIMUL-CLIMBING

49

Hans self-belaying on Zodiac; Jacqueline Florine (out ofthe picture) is cleaning the pitch; and Wayne Willoughby ir organizing rope at the anchor. (Tom Evans)

finding and placing gear, it is frequently best to have him lead. The key thing to remember is that no one can fall. Having the best climber on the bottom does slightly decrease the chances o f a catastrophic fall but might negate some o f the advantages o f a fast leader. Another consideration is who wants to lead. Some people are very enamored with leading. The goal o f most climbing should be to have fun, so pick the leader who maximizes your fun and speed. Climbing with a superb second is a dream. As long as the rack holds out, it is like leading on an extremely long rope, giving you the feeling o f soloing the climb without nearly as much risk. Hans has frequently been the bottom climber on speed records. His ability to manage the rope and his vast experience with simul-climbing make him a rock solid person to "anchor" the team. Choosing a leader depends a lot on the mentality o f the climbers, the terrain being covered, and the risks each is willing to take. The advantages o f leading in blocks, mentioned in previous chapters, apply to simul-climbing as well. It is optimum to have the same person in the lead the whole time. This creates a cycle o f rest and hard work that is not interrupted by a change in the leader. The exception to this would be 50

SPEED CLIMBING! H O W T O CLIMB FASTER A N D BElTER

when the follower can literally "swing" into the lead on a big pendulum. Hans and his fastest partners do this on the King Swing on the Nose. Guides will almost always be the first on the rope, especially when route finding is an issue, which is a primary concern when hiring a guide. On moderate terrain, guides will simul-climb with strong clients whom they know well. Gaston Rebuffat climbed the North Face o f the Dru with Rene Mallieux in such a manner. In fact, this climb provides a snapshot o f the benefits and joys o f climbing fast. Rebuffat describes the sensations vividly. "We had t o climb fast, in fact very fast indeed, if I was to attend the guides' festival at Chamonix the next morning. This fact added zest to the whole day. To go fast merely for the sake o f going fast usually seems senseless, but on this occasion it was quite different; we had only these few hours to climb the 2,500 feet o f this face." Rebuffat, like so many other climbers, had no particular love ofjust going fast, but once it was thrust upon him, he couldn't help but feel the joy. This experience has happened with us and the many friends we've introduced to speed climbing. They expect it to be a race, but it's not. It's moving with a sense o f purpose and urgency and working together smoothly and not stopping and so much more. It is not missing out on what is great about climbing, but enjoying a new aspect o f it. Protecting the simul-climb. If you are simul-climbing and the lower

partner runs into an unsuspected jam where she needs a belay, don't let i t throw you. Put in a temporary anchor and use it t o belay her until she is past her troubles, then resume simul-climbing. You must have pieces between you and your partner that are equal to or better than a bomber belay anchor. Three bomber pieces are a minimum. lfyou do not adhere to this rule, you might as well both be soloingand if you are soloing, do not do it tied to another person. This is not glacier-walking, where you and your partner have ice axes and can self-arrest. Rope selection. Some people prefer a shorter rope, say 30 to 40

meters, so that the climbers stay closer together in order t o communicate better. Sometimes a rope shorter than standard is not an option, such as when there is a rappel that is 25 meters or more. As the follower, I (H.F.) always prefer a Grigri to belay, so I tend to go for a 60-meter rope because the Grigri allows for a changeable rope length. (It is not correct t o take your hand o f f the brake end o f the rope when using a Grigri, but it frees your hands up for climbing! A safer alternative is to tie a figure eight on a bight below the Grigri.)

SIMUL-CLIMBING

51

Ro

and Ra~pemar IS nd P e ~Ftopeman l s to reducce the disas-

F

Folks have used Yates

..--. . L l uuS effects o f the folluwer

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0

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15 IIUL

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aPPt-oved use o f these devices. !Some tholught should go into their use. WheIn using a. Tibloc, t)e sure yc)u put thf2 rope ~nsride the canabiner so Ithe weig,ht is not on the dc:vice alone in the e!vent o f a fall.

yet still not recommended, t hat a Petzl

It shoulc1 be not ed, -.. J . _ ._ Micr.-ocenaer or a -

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nscenaer coula also De usea In chis manner.

Shot-tly after )IOU place the ascerider, it is advantag;eous to F)lace a pic2ce abo\/e it. (This is a goc)d idea writh the Rlocker or IRopemanI also.) TI - r-II L.. -I_I--3 3 > . ._:_ILL .- J: ..--- I. . L . ._-LI wav d rail ~y rne leaaer aoesn r welgnc rne aevlce alrercly U U L rdrner L

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the Ihigher picece. The device ju:s t lets thc2 rope sli de until I:he follovver catc hes the 112ader. I ( H.F.) do17 ' t "endolrse" this; I'm merely point1ing .L

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II (B.W.) tlave teste,d followe:r falls wit:h a Petzl Ropeman and tound work quite well if- rigged clorrectly, :ind i f car.e is taken to prevent 0

LUU

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nuch slac:k in the rope. Tiblc~ C S ,because they 2Ire not spring load1

I

are Inot safe for use i~ 7 this mzInner. These devic es have r;tripped 1 .I

rc.1

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sheam om me rope wnen usea In tnls way, ana are nlgnly aependent biner thic

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ith the ro

Rope management. Do not simul-climb with huge loops o f slack

between you and your partner. This defeats the purpose o f having a rope between you and your partner by greatly increasing the force o f any fall. There are two ways to handle this problem. The first, less-than-ideal method is to have both climbers climb at the same speed all the time while on each end o f the rope. This can be difficult and frustrating when one climber is on a tricky section and the other is on easy ground. The second way to handle differences in speed is to have the bottom climber use a self-locking belay device like a Grigri. This allows the adept rope manager to throttle the lead line depending upon the demands o f the leader and the speed o f the follower. A drawback that inevitably arises from this method is that the loop o f rope below the following climber can get stuck. Communication. Good communication is always important, but even

more so when simul-climbing. Make sure that you and your partner are

52

SPEED CLIMBING! HOW TO CLIMB FASTER A N D BETTER

w

FIGURE 4-2 A device can be used to take rope weight and save the leader in case the second falls while simul-climbing. Note that this arrangement will NOT safely hold a leader fall. Hence, a piece o f protection should be placed immediately above this device.

aware ofwhat the other is doing. I (B.W.) like to yell down "Placing a piece!" whenever I stop to put in gear. This lets my second know why the rope isn't moving. I f he mistakenly thought I was at a difficult section, puzzling over the moves, he might become concerned and question why we were simul-climbing in the first place. In fact, I use this call whenever SIMUL-CLIMBING

53

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F-7