de les illes columbretes English version
Parc Natural de les Illes Columbretes
[email protected] Planetario de Castellón Paseo Marítimo, 1 12100 Grau de Castelló (Castelló) Tel. 964 28 89 12 (Castelló) http://parquesnaturales.gva.es Assistance from:
Printing this material has been possible thanks to the Cooperation Agreement signed on 21st April 2006 by the Caja de Ahorros y Pensiones de Barcelona, "la Caixa" and the Generalitat Valenciana (Autonomous Community Authority) for Undertaking the Integral Management Plan for Conservation of the Natural Systems of the Valencian Communitys Network of Nature Reserves.
Layout:
Benjamín Albiach Galán Kun.Xusa Beltrán
Photography:
Benjamín Albiach Galán Eva Mestre Diego K. Kersting J. J. Rico
Map Design:
Pau Pérez Puigcerver source: ICV (Cartographic Institute of Valencia)
Texts:
Environmental educacion team
Printed: Legal Deposit:
Centro Especial de Empleo, IVADIS
Date of Nature Reserve declaration: 25th January1988 Date of PRUG approval: 7th June 1994 Date requalification of Natural Reserve: 27th December 1994 Municipalities: Castelló de la Plana The Columbretes islands are a little archipelago just over fifty kilometres off the coast of Castellón. These are four groups of islets, given the name of the largest of each of these: l’Illa Grossa, La Ferrera, La Foradada and El Carallot. The highest point is sixty-seven metres, at the northern end of the Illa Grossa, known as monte Colibre. Their volcanic origin, the isolation in which different species of animals and plants live, the small size and the tough environmental conditions make the islands a unique and particularly weak ecosystem. The seabed and waters are characterised by their outstanding beauty, richness and degree of conservation. The 19 hectares emerging surface area of the Columbretes islands (fourteen of which belong to the Illa Grossa), in the municipal area of Castellón de la Plana, were protected by the Generalitat Valenciana in 1988 by giving them the status of “nature park”. This concept was reclassified as nature reserve in the Valencian Community’s Law on natural spaces of 1994.
History The knowledge that we have of human history on the islands is connected with people’s presence on these. This history is well-documented from the building of the lighthouse, but relatively unknown in earlier ages. The first descriptions are to be found in Strabo’s book Geographica, written in the first century B.C., in which he talks of the island Ophiusa in clear allusion to the large number of snakes living on the islets. Two centuries later, Pliny and Mela again described the islands, now with the Latin name of Colubraria, from which the present name of Columbretes comes. We know little about the islands during the period of Moslem domination and throughout the middle ages, since no written documents referring to the archipelago have come down to us. It is from the 16th century that we again find bibliographic references insisting on the profusion of vipers, to the extent of making them inhabitable.
Archivo del Parc Natural
B. Albaich Galán
Medicago citrina front the beacon in L'Illa Grossa
Columbretes's cemetery. Years 50
In 1856, under Isabel II’s reign, the work on the lighthouse started and went on until 1860. This building brought the first inhabitants of the islands – lighthouse keepers –to the islands, living on the archipelago until 1975, a year in which the lighthouse was finally automated. Since their stays here were lengthy, many decided to take their families with them, so that the Illa Grossa became a sort of little village with a few inhabitants, and the lighthouse bore silent witness to births and deaths here. Apart from the lighthouse, this period left us with a cemetery, the barracks where the wardens live today, an image of the Virgen del Carmen and remains of gardens, pulley wheels and stone stairways down to the sea. During its history these islands have regularly been visited by sailors, pirates, scientists, soldiers and above all fishermen seeking the haven of the natural port of the Illa Grossa, or smugglers who used these to hide their goods in places such as the cave known as “Cueva del Tabaco” in Tofiño port until the guards blew it up!
One of the sailors who visited these islands was archduke Ludwig Von Salvator, who wrote the monograph Columbretes published in Prague in 1895. In 1823, Captain W. H. Smyth, later to become an admiral, wrote detailed studies of the archipelago, which were published in The Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London in 1831 and two years later in the “Carta Esférica de la Costa de España desde el cabo de Gata hasta el de Oropesa”. From the late nineteen-seventies until 1982 the United States and Spanish air forces and navies used the area for military exercises. The impact of the bombs, the affluence of uncontrolled visitors and overfishing all threatened the natural land and sea resources. All of this led to the much-needed protection of the archipelago.
B. Albaich Galán
B. Albaich Galán
Virgen del Carmen in the Illa Grossa with the Ferrera to the bottom
Detail of a type of Columbretes's volcanic rock
Geology During the quaternary era a number of underwater volcanic emissions reached the surface of the water to form a new archipelago. The volcanic activity of the Columbretes is associated with a subduction zone where the ocean’s crust is gradually being worn away. This means that that the volcanic field of the Columbretes could be considered as being permanently active, but there is no reference to the later eruptions which gave rise to the islands. The Columbretes islands rest on an extensive volcanic field forty metres long and about fifteen wide. They are located on a continental platform zone close to the slope, at a depth of sixty or seventy metres, though to the east this quickly drops to depths of a thousand metres. This started to be
formed ten million years ago with underwater emissions of a greenish-grey coloured phonolitic magma. Tightly welded and compacted reddish coloured clinkers were deposited on these, and on top of these small glassy coulees of very dark phonolites about fifty centimetres thick settled. A million years ago the period of volcanic eruptions started, characterised by more basic magmas (basanites) in underwater discharges. The bestpreserved volcanoes of this sort are the Illa Grossa, Senyoreta, Mascarat and Mancolibre. The volcano of the Illa Grossa was built in four stages. The first two involved very violent underwater explosions, with fragments being hurled long distances. After the withdrawal of the sea from the crater zone, a further episode generated pyroclastic materials (lapilli) and bombs of varying sizes. These are very dark materials located in certain areas of the Illa Grossa, Mascarat and Senyoreta. The crater zone was again flooded by the sea and there was a new volcanic period, characterised by pyroclastic deposits, particularly significant in the barracks zone.
Typical forms due to the erosion in Columbretes's volcanic rock
B. Albiach Galán
The materials forming the islands are mainly basanites- basic volcanic rocks characterised by the presence of pyroxene and olivine (from one million to three hundred thousand years)- and phonolytes, volcanic rocks of the Miocene era, from eight to ten million years of age, characterised by the plentiful feldspars and feldsparoids.
Vegetation Apart from the extreme conditions, the species also had to survive years of human pressure after the lighthouse was built here. The ones that withstood this now find excellent conditions to develop in. The perennial plants grow little by little covering the soil and preventing other species from germinating. The annual plants appear on zones of open ground, taking advantage of the scanty rain to flourish and disperse their seeds quickly. Other species such as the lentisc (Pistacia lentiscus) had to be reintroduced by the wardens when the area started to be protected.
Although many species must have come to the islets over their long history, few have managed to withstand the tough weather conditions of the archipelago. In the small area emerging from the water there are other conditioning factors such as the aridity, the scanty soil, the storms, great insolation and high salinity to which the plants living here are adapted. This may help us to understand why there is no native tree species on the islands. Apart from the implicit isolation and the volcanic nature of the archipelago there has been a very important phenomenon found here: the appearance of new species.
Some of the plants deserving mention are two endemic ones: types of sweet alyssum (Lobularia Maritime Lobularia ssp columbretensis, endemism exclusive of Columbretes
B. Albiach Galán
B. Albiach Galán
Medicago citrina, endemism of restricted area
B. Albiach Galán
B. Albiach Galán
Podarcis atrata
Lavatera mauritanica
Fauna maritima ssp. columbretensis) and the moon trefoil or tree medic (Medicago citrina) perfectly adapted to the tough environmental conditions. But the predominant plant is shrubby seablite (Suaeda vera) which covers the Illa Grossa in particular. Other interesting plants are the sea carrot (Daucus carota ssp. Commutatus), sea fennel (Crithmum maritimum), sea orach (Atriplex halimus), tree mallow and Moroccan mallow (Lavatera arborea and Lavatera mauritanica), the wild asparagus (Asparagus horridus), a thorny shrub called Lycium intrincatum and the pauquy (Withania frutescens). There are two flora microreserves on the archipelago, one on La Ferrera island and the other on the Foradada.
The origin of both the flora and fauna on the Columbretes islands can be sought in the part the Castellón coast closest to these, although the presence of some species suggests a direct relationship with the Balearic islands. The speciation phenomenon is clear in the land animals of the Columbretes since these are deprived of the dispersion mechanisms assuring them any genetic flow with other populations. In all there are at least ten species of insects exclusive to the archipelago, mostly tenebrionid beetles such as Alphasida bonacherai or Tentyria pazi. You can also find a species of endemic snail, Trochoidea molinae. But one of the most emblematic animals on the islands is without a doubt the Columbretes islands lizard
(Podarcis atrata), which has four isolated populations on different islands. This lizard is particularly plentiful on the Illa Grossa, where the absence of enemies has made these trusting and easy to see. To prevent overpopulation they have developed self-control mechanisms, particularly the high rate of cannibalism by the adults, which often eat eggs and young. Another animal deserving mention in view of its plentiful presence is the yellow scorpion - Buthus occitanus –which the inhabitants of the islands have learned to live with.
Some prominent ones are the common chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita), the spotted flycatcher (Muscicapa striata), European serin (Serinus serinus), blue-headed wagtail (Motacilla flava), Sardinian and Subalpine warblers (Sylvia melanocephala and Sylvia cantillans), the thrush (Turdus philomenos), whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus), marsh harrier (Circus aeruginosus) and the osprey (Pandion haliaetus). All of this has led to the archipelago being declared a zone of special protection for birds (ZEPA).
The legendary snakes which gave their name to the islands disappeared over a century ago and although a specimen of viper supposedly belonging to the Columbretes is kept in the Natural Science Museum in Madrid we cannot be sure that this type of snake really lived on the archipelago. Eleonora’s falcon (Falco eleonorae)
J. J. Rico
Special mention should be given to the birds, as the importance of the islands to some species was an essential reason for their protection. The sea birds which have chosen the volcanic cliffs of the Columbretes as a breeding zone should be stressed. Six species regularly breed here: Audouin’s gull (Larus audouinii), the shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis), Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea), the yellow-legged gull (Larus cachinnans), the storm petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus) and Eleonora’s falcon (Falco eleonorae). The peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus) occasionally settles here too. The Columbretes are also important for the large numbers of migratory birds that use these islets as a place of rest on their long journeys, with over two hundred and thirty different species being identified through the year.
Marine environment There are three prominent habitats on the infralittoral level of the Columbretes : the meadows of the seagrass phanerogam Cymodocea nodosa, highly important due to these forming shelter, feeding and breeding zones for an infinite number of sea organisms; the maerl seabed, consisting of limestone algae, which cover extensive zones in Columbretes and the rocky seabed, where the spiny lobster (Palinurus elephas) lives, and where one can at great depths find populations of red gorgonian (Paramuricea clavata) unique in the Mediterranean. One can only be surprised at the large number of fish in Columbretes as groupers (Epinephelus guaza) and meagre (Sciaena umbra) and their passivity in the presence of humans, due to fishing restrictions. The seaweed wealth of the Columbretes seabed is also a sign of the quality of the waters and protection of the medium. In the proximity of the islands one can also enjoy the presence of bottle-nosed dolphins (Tursiops truncatus), barracuda (Sphyraena sphyraena) or ocean sunfish (Mola mola). One can occasionally see large cetaceae such as the common fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus).
The sea bed possesses a great diversity of species
Diego K. Kersting
The 4400 ha of marine surface area protected with the status of Marine Reserve from 19th April 1990 are managed by the Ministry of Farming, Fishing and Food.
beacon
E 1:9.000
cave information centre monument
Punta de Tramuntana o Bonica
Cap del Rossi
heliport
67,5
L’Illa Grossa Cova del Mal Pas
Cova del Tabac
-40
Casernas -20 Escala del Rossí
El Mancolibre
E: 1/35.000 Puerto Tofiño 0
500
1.000 m
Trenca Timons 29,3 23,2
La Senyoreta
35,8
Piedra Joaquín
El Mascarat
cementery
Escala d’Espanya
43,4
la Virgen del Carmen Escala del Congre
E 1:12.000
Islote Espinosa
45
-40
E 1:12.000
100 m
-20
La Foradada o Ferrer
23,5 55,4
Islote Bauzá
37,2
Islote Lobo o Foradadeta
44,5
La Ferrera o Malaspina
el Tall
-60
-40
Islote Méndez Núñez
Islote Navarrete 100 m
Islote Cerquero E 1:8.000
0
las Tres Rocas del Carallot
-2
el Carallot o Bergantín
0 -2
32,1
100 m
Islote Churruca
Islote Baleato 100 m
Mancolibre
Senyoreta
Mascarat
Virgen del Carmen
cementery
El Carallot
Puerto Tofiño
La Foradada
B. Albiach Galán
L’Illa Grossa
Panoramic direction SO from the Information Centre of the Illa Grossa
Routes 1. Visit to the Illa Grossa: route from Tofiño port to the lighthouse The fragility of the islands means that it is only possible to visit the Illa Grossa. The route is taken in small groups of people, always accompanied by monitors or by the wardens, who give an explanation of the most relevant aspects of the reserve. The visit is regulated with a maximum daily number of persons in order to ensure the minimum effect on the ecosystem, and lasts from one to two hours. The walk will take us from the stairs and port of the Illa Grossa to the lighthouse, including the Visitors’ Centre, where there is an exhibition on the human history and fishing around the Columbretes. During
the trip, and depending on the time of year chosen for this, you will see numerous sea birds, lizards, insects and the most representative plants of the island flora, all in a majestic volcanic landscape. We recommend taking the following with you: Enough food and water (the trip takes one day). Anything required to prevent seasickness and sunburn (the voyage to the islands tends to take from 2 to 3 hours, depending on the boat). Depending on the season, face mask, snorkel and flippers.
Eva Mestre
Exhibition of the Columbretes Islands in the Planetari de Castelló
2. Visit to the Information Centre The Information Centre for the Nature Reserve of the Columbretes Islands is located in Castellón Planetarium. It has an exhibition on the islands and about the world of fishing. It can work self-guided with the narration of a fisherman as guiding thread through the explanation. There is a projections and lecture room where videos and audiovisual presentations or talks can be given.
The Planetari de Castelló is located in front of Pinar beach, renowned for the quality of the water, the sand and for the services that it provides for visitors.
Visitors centre of the Illa Grossa
B. Albiach Galán
Very close to this there is the Grau Pine Spinney, a large green area with restaurant, games, sport and leisure facilities, where one can have a meal in a peaceful setting while enjoying catching sight of the squirrels or the many birds that live here.
Visits of interest - The Planetari de Castelló (Planetarium). Planetarium shows and exhibitions of a scientific nature. In one of the four exhibition rooms there is an Information Centre for the Nature Reserve of the Columbretes Islands.
- Grau de Castelló fishing port. Daily auctioning of fresh fish. - Castelló Fine Arts Museum, with its archaeology, ceramics, painting and sculpture sections.
B. Albiach Galán
- Pinar del Grau Municipal Park. With recreation areas, restaurant and open air sports zone.
- Castelló Contemporary Art Museum. One of the references in Spain’s contemporary art circuit.
Group of students in a guided visit in the islands
- Paratge Natural del Desert de les Palmes. A coastal mountain range of special interest for its flora and fauna.
Accommodation
- Prat de Cabanes-Torreblanca Nature Reserve. An important marsh in a well-preserved area of the Castellón coastline.
Camping is not allowed on the islands but you can stay nearby on board yachts, properly anchored. As regards the coast, there is a wide offer of accommodation both in the Grau de Castellón and in Benicasim.
- Serra d’Espadà Nature Reserve. A mountain range of great geological, fauna and botanical importance. -
Serra d’Irta Nature Reserve. One of the last unspoilt coastal zones in the Valencian Community. Information and tourism office in Castelló: Plaza María Agustina nº 5. Tel. 964 358 688.
Cuisine Neither cooking nor eating on the island are allowed, and we thus advise you to take ready to eat food and have this on board. As for the coast, there is a promenade with plenty of restaurants in Grau de Castellón where you can enjoy regional and international cooking.
B. Albiach Galán
Carallot or Bergantín
How to get here Information Centre on the Columbretes Islands Nature Reserve. Planetari de Castelló. Paseo Marítimo s/n. Grau de Castelló. E-mail:
[email protected]
To go to the islands. At the Information Centre they will let you know how to hire one of the private boats that take trips to the islands. You can also go in boats of your own.
Rules Do not leave the marked paths to take short cuts
No camping in the nature reserve
No picking flowers and plants
Do not bother or catch any animals
Do not drop litter in the reserve. Use the wastebaskets of the boat
It is strictly forbidden to light fires
Please do not make noise
