Work lUillChange theWayYou

A Publicationof August Home Publishing

tipsf romour shop

departments

ShopNotebook.

fromourreaders

T i p&s T e c h n i q u e. s. ......... . . . . 4 a l la b o u t

V a r i a bSl e p e eRdo u t e.r.s. . . . . . . . . 8 great This feature willopenupa whole new possibilities. worldofrouting

smallshopsolutions

RouterTables . .. . . . 42 Space-Saving

Four router tableoptions thatwon'ttakeupany your floor in extra space shop. \rbffi

workingwith tools

w

sThatWillChange YourWotk.. 44 5Toof toolsof the trade

TopPicksinTableSawAccessories 10 Take a lookata fewaccessories thatwillhelp yougetthemost your from table saw.

techniouesfromour shoo

Installing Drawer Side-Mount Slides14 Install themrightthefirsttime.

Findoutwhichtoolscanreally make a big difference inyourshop.

f inishing room

ANever-FailFinish. .....46 Nothing beats anoilandwaxfinish forlooks andease ofapplication.

in the mailbox

Q& A .

jigsandfixtures

Pocket HoleJoinery . . . . . . . . 15 Using yourpocket Take holejig beyond faceframes to younever a fewapplications thought o[

........48

hardware andsupplies

Sources

. . . . .. . . 4 9 Utoeh

ffi

Coffee Table oaqe22

zo CandleHolders page Woodsmith

D

features project weekend

C a"How n d l e H o l d" e r s . . . . . . . . . 2 0

d youdothat? We'llshowyouthesecret tomaking theselaminated candle holders.

editor'snote

Sawdust

d a c i nn o r < o r i o < n r n i o r l

Gfass-Top CoffeeTable. . . . . . . . . . .22

joinery glass-top This coffee tablefeatures basic andadds thebonus ofextra storaqe. @ES{@ERsSS@88@@K

prolect heirloom

Curved-FrontWall Cabinet. ., . . . . . 32 Don'tletthisproject throwyoua curve. You'll justhoweasyit isto builda curved learn drawer an0 00015.

haight, flat, and square. \A/hen it comes to makhg doots, that's usually the goal you're shooting for. But that's not the casewith the curved-front wall cabinet on page 32 of this issue.The doors of this cabinet bow outward gracefully. Building a prolect like this may sound challenging, but don't worry - we've included some tips to make the process almost foolproof. Speaking of tips, most woodworkers I talk to can't seem to get enough of them. Now, you can have the best time-saving secrets,

details of craftsmanship

S o l i d - W oFor a d m&eP a n e.l. . . . . 5 0 Learn whatit takes to buildlong-lasting projects using solidwood.

solutions, and techniques sent dtectly to your computer Just go to www.WoodworkingTips.com

to sign up. You'll receive a new

tip by e-mail each week. There's one other online feature that I'd like to mention. That's our new online sources page. There, you'll find hardware and

I ndcutrrg diag'ams foral rheprojecrs above online atwww.Woodsmith.com

supply sources for the projects featured in each issue of Woodsmith. To view the online sources page, just go to wrvw.Woodsmith.com and follow the linl1 th4

I

Detailof right side "rly,

TOP SECTION VIEW

8% 7

NOTE:All partsare

1

fte building

From a constructjorlstandpoht, the gently-curweddoors on this cabiret may seen a Littleintimidating at first But clon'i be fooled. Yes BOTTOM glance. RAIL makir-rgcurved doors doesrequire a @ lilfle extra work compared to flat doors.Bnt asyou'll discover,it's not nearly as complicated as it looks. And if you look pasi the doors for a minute, the Iest of the caseis Pretty much like any other cabinet. CAst,The case of the cabinet is made up of two sides joined by three dividers. Then a top and bot

CnsISlots

Groove

CenterGroove, Tacenterthe groovean the thickness of thestock,flip the workpiece endfor endbefueenpasses. 34

Cut the Tongue. Tocut the tongueson the panels,bury a dado blade in an auxiliary fenceattachedta your rip fence. Woodsmith

tom are added to finish it off The only thing that is a bit unusual about the case is the front edge moldilg. lt has a profile to match the curve of the door. But I'll explail more about that later. slDts.For now, )/ou can stad by making the two frame and panel sides. As vou can see in the rnain drawing on this pagc, there's nothing tricky here - just a pair of stiles joinecl by a top and bottom rail. Stub tenons and grooves are used to join the frame pieces (tletail 'a'). And the solid wood panels are held in the trames rvith tongue and groove joints (see Horv-To box at left). The side palrels fit flush lvith the rails and stiles, with a 'lo" shadow line all around. But to give the panels roor.n to expand and contract inside the frarne, I made the tongues along the cdges of the p;rnels slightly shorter thal the tongues on the ends. You can see what I'm talking about in the detail dlawings above. Once the frames are glued uP around the panels, you'll need to cui a rabbet along the back edge of each side to hold a back that is 'c') A secadded iater (seedetail ond rabbet cut along the front stiles creates a tongue for attaching the No. 156

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,ft

molding. Then after drilling some shelf pin holes (seemain dralving on opposite page) yoi"r ca]ll cut the dadoes for the three horizontal dividers that i,,'ill be added later (See drar'r'ing and detail 'b' at right for dado size arrd locations.) fRotlTM0LDltlc.With the sides complete,you can make the molding ihat fits over the front edges. This is a three-step process Starting with a piece of 1%e'-thick stock, you first bevel two faces of the nolding blank (detail 'a') Then a cove is routed along the edge r,r.herethese two bevels meet (see filst drawing in box below) Finally, cut a groove aiong the back side of the molding to match the tongueon the fuont stiles Once you have the front molding trimmed to len€ith, the next stepis to cut three shallow notches in each piece to hold the dividers that i,,'i11be added later. Here's where you want to take your time. The trick is to lay out the notches as accurately as possible so that the dividers t'ill slip right into them. As you can see in the second drarving in the box below, I made a layout block that matched the thickness of the stock I had set aside for making my dividers (%"). The block allows you to mark out the exact location of the notches on the inside iace of the

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l'/l

,l -l

Side

--1 tt=

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r/a

NOTE: Size notches in front molding to fit dividel sto(k (see page 36)

molding. Then it's a simple matter to transfer the layout lines around the moldings. To cut the notches,I used a dado blade and an auxiliary fence on my miter gauge. Becauseof the bevel on the edge of the molding, you'll have to hold the molding tight against the miter gauge fence as

you sneak up on the depth of the notches. Take a look at the last drawing in the box below to see what I'm talking about. Instead of gluing the moldings on at this point I found it easier to wait until after I had finished making and fitting the three dividers (seenext page).

Front Moldi HouTor Fitthe

Rout Cove. Anq beveling the fwo faces of the blank, a core box bit is used ta rout a cavealong the length of the malding. www.Woodsmith.com

Lay Out Notches.Slidea layout block into the dadoesin the sidesto mark the locationsof the natchesfor the dividers. Woodsmith

Cut Notches. Cut the notcheswith a dado blade, holding the molding tightly againsta mltergaugeauxiliary[ence 35

,-

--1 -

G)

TOP DIVIDER

MIDDLE DIVIDER

o

a. Side,panel ,nooy-.

Drill and countersink for l+6x 11/1"Fh woodscrew

Backedge of bottom of rabbet

1

LonqLres on the enclsof each one to fjt iI the clacloes),ou clrt carlicr in thc sidc panels(cletail'a'). ln orclerto ailo!\,ihc dividers to fit around the iront moldir,g, the front comers ol each clividel arc notched, as sho\'rn in detail'[r.'Vli ciin cuL il]csc norchesby nibbling au,av the bulk oi Lhc\'!.rstc on the

G)BonoM -

DIV]DER

NOTE: Cut natches in divider befare cutting curved prafile

fitting the

Dmp=RS, Tor, & Borro$[rl:ri::{rLr*'i r-(ir-r;unmg rvaste i,vith ti chrsel.

With thc siclcs oi thc cabinct coli plete, lrru ciur begjn to n-raketlrr-'hor'jzontal pieces tltrt corxrect then the cli\'idcls ancl Lhc top aiLl botbm f-a]1els.I sttirlccl l.)' rnal