contents
April2002,lssue141
WOODamagazine PROJECTS
&
TECHNIQUES
46 contemporaryW stand Letthisprojectprovidea handsome homefor yourelectronics.
50
model speedboat Expectwavesandraveswiththis runabout. rubber-band-powered
60 build-to-suitpergola
Shadeyourdeck,patio,or yardwith structure. architectural thispleasing
c
E
66 how to installposts
6
E
Learnthe tricksbuildersuseto locate andset postsin the ground.
C
E co
=
68 arbor/swingcombo
E (L
withthis summer Planfora relaxing project. freestanding outdoor
o
o
72 deluxe deck-railing system Planter-boxcolumnsand tough materials make for lasting beauty.
I ,i.,ir I d;is;#.
80 on-wall trellis 2x2sandlatticeto createa Combine plants. greatframework forclimbing
92 glass-domed snack tray f4
thisplate, upstylebyturning Serve cheeseboard,and knife handle.
96 10waysto tablesawsuccess Make your tablesawthe best it can be with these shop-smarttricks.
50
www.woodonline.com
contents April2002,lssue141
TOOL
U
REVIEW
7lq" circularsaws We test the power, performance,and featuresof eight competingmodels.
4 il
wood close-up:baldcypress how to craft cutlery handles Checkout the resultsof threestaffers who usedmail-order knifekits.
90 who built LadyLiberty? See the role wood playedin the constructionof our most famous statue.
DEPARTMENTS
6 editor'sangle I talkingback 12 greatideas:rip-fencesaddle Machinebridlejoints, open morlises,and tenonswith this handyjig.
14 short cuts 1 6 shopskills:step-building Learnthe guidelines whenworkingon outdoorprojects.
2. joinery:mark with precision 24 talkingshop:glassshelving Seewhatyouroptionsare,andhowthey impactprice.
26 32 36 42 100 101 111 112
how dry shouldwood be?
askwooD shoptips WOODONLINEo outdoorproductsrcsourceguide prcductsthat perform wood anecdote:coffeetree what'saheadin our next issue Better Homes and Gardensa (ISSN-0743-894X)is published nine times a year in 'November, l-OOOa- magazine and oecem'uei uy I:!r,rly,Jvlarch...April,_May/June, ^July/Auqust,seplemlg1 octo'ber, Meredrth,Corporation. l7l6 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309-3023.Periodicalspostagepaid at Dei Moines, Iowa, and additional mailin_g_offices.^Bette_rHomes and Gardenstrademarkiegistireb in Canada tr4arcaRegistradaen M6xico. ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION pnICnSi U.S. and it, porild,tY:,Tl'3 sessrons, $2E;Canada,$41; other countries,$49. CanadaPostPublicationsMail SalesProductAgreement No. 40049562.CanadianBN 12348 2887RT. CANADIAN RETURN ADDRESS: Better Himes and Gardens WOOD magazine.2744Edna Street,Windsor, Ontario, N8Y 1V2. POSTMASTER: SenauOOr.ri changesro Befter Hotnesand Gardens wooD magazine,p.o. Box 37439,Boone, IA 50037-0439.
WOOD magazine
April 2002
Better
Editor-in-Chief BILLKRIER Executive Editor JIMHARROLD Managing EditorMARLEN KEMMET Features EditorDAVE ST0NE Products EditorDAVE CAMPBELL Projects EditorJANHALESVEC Projects Editor0WENDUVALL Technioues EditorJIMPOLI0CK Senior Design EditorKEVIN B0YLE Design EditorJEFFMERTZ Master Craftsman CHARLES L HEDTUND Production/0ffice Manager MARGARET CL0SNER Administrative Assistant SHERYT MUNY0N lllustrators L()RNA J()HNS()N, R0XANNE [eM0lNE, TIMCAHILL, MIKEMITTERMEIER Contributing Photographer MARTY BALDWIN Technical Consultants RICHBRIGHT, JEFFHAIL, KIRKHESSE, GARRY SMITH Contributing Craftsman JIMHEAVEY Proofreaders JIMSANDERS. BARBARA KIEIN
you ought to know cussiongroupsyou know how muchwoodworkingwisdom can be gainedby tuningin to them.That exchangeof informationwouldn'tbe possible withoutthe helpof thesededicated readers. think I speakfor everyoneon the staff f lwhen I saythat the bestpart of working atWOOD magazineis producinga publicationfor readerswho are so passionate abouta subjectmatter.If there'sa group of peoplewho enjoy their craft and pursue it with morezealthanwoodworkers,I'd like to meetthem. So it's no surprisethat thousands of woodworkerssharetheir knowledge,and seekit from others,by activelyparticipatingin our Internetdiscussiongroups at www.woodonline.com. The I I groups covereveryareaof woodworking,and the talk can get ratherlively, the viewpointsprettystrong.I've alwaysfound it fun and informational. The discussions arehostedby a corpsof dedicatedvolunteersfrom acrossNorth America.They monitorthe conversations, lend a helpinghandto needywoodworkers,andyes,they stepin from time to time to keepthingscivil. If a participantraises a concernthat requiresthe immediate attentionof one of our editors,they alert us to it. They do thesethingsbecausethey love woodworkingand sharinginformation. For that,I would like to acknowledse them here.Someof thesefolks have expertisein specificareas,andI've listed thoseafter their hometown.
Gardenso
April2002o vol.19,No.3 o lssue No.141
Sorne special people Don Sindledecker,Ketchikan, AK, hostat Inrge Jim Frye, Toledo, OH, hostat large Jim Becker,New Hope, PArtoolbuying Willy Driscoll, Surrey, BC, woodworking plansfinder Downing, West DesMoines,IA, Jamie downloadableplan support Jim Kull, McKinney, TX, finishing and refinishing Phil Brennion, Chino Yalley, LZ, woodturning Kathy Hutton, Dubuque, IA, scrollsawing RossCanant, Greenville, TX, ol.dtools RussellFloyd, Jericho, VT, woodworkingplnnsfinder Doug Mount, PeachtreeCity, GA, homeimprovement Tim Rundal[ DesMoines,IA, woodcaming
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w0CID.
editortsanete
lf you'vevisitedour onlinedis-
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Advertising Office: 333N.Michigan Ave., 1500, Suite Chicago, lL60601 Phone: 312853-2890 Fu:312580-7906 Sales Assistant. LARA KALI-AL MailResponse Manager DAKIS CAR0LYN Account Executive R()N G()tMINAS Account Executive NEIL KIRBY Account Executive J0HN TH0RNBURGH Detroit, Phone:2481356-1 149 Fax: 248/356-8930 Account Executive PAT T0MtlNS0N Northeast, Phone: 2121551-7043 Fax: 2121551-7192 Lagomarsino, Southeasl: Dempsey & Dennis, Inc. 2951 Piedmont Rd,, NE, 100, Atlanta, Suite GA30305 -5400Fax4041261 -5404 Phone. 4041261 Group Marketing Director CATHY E.SMITH -7178 Fax.2121551 -7192 Phone: 2121551 Senior Marketing Services Manager ATEXANDER D.CIARKS0N GrouP p ublishe SrT E P H E BN .L E V I N S O N Associate Business Director FEAR CRAIG Senior Product Manager RICKGR()W Advertising Services ManagerPATHENDERSHOTT Consumer Marketing Director KATHI PRIEN Marketing Consumer Manager DAVE H0N0LD
To learn more abouttheseenthusiastic woodworkers,and seetheir pictures,go to www.woodonline.com and click on WOOD TALK. And while you're there, don't forgetto add your two centsto one or moreof the discussions. We'll be expectingyou.
VicePresidenVPublishing Director WlttlAMR. REED MEREDITH PUBTISHING GR()UP President STEPHEN M. LACY Magazine Group President JERRY KAPTAN Grouo SalesMICHAEL BROWNSTEIN Creative Services ELLEN OELATH0UDER Business Develooment TINAGE()BGE()U Manufacturing BRUCE HESTON Consumer Marketing KARTA JEFFRIES Finance andAdministrationMAXRUNCIMAN
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WlLtlAMT. KERR. President andChiefExecutive Officer E.T.MEREDITH lll, Chairman of the Executive Committee
7"!A{^^Dv
OCopyrightMeredithCorporation 2002 All rightireserved. Printedin theU.S.A. Customer Service Information: For service on your subscription, including change of address, contact us at www.woodmagazine.com/service or call 800/374-9663. Subscription mailing address: Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine,P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037-0439. Pleaseenclose your addresslabelfrom a recentissue.Editorial mailing address:The Editor, WOOD magazine,l7 l6 Locust Street.GA3l0. Des Moines. IA 50309-3023.For ouestions on editorial, questionsabout how to reachan advertiser,or to pface an advertisementin our magazinecall 800/374-9663. To order back issuescall E00/346-9663.Article reprints, send$5 per article (no phoneorders),includeissueand nameof article,to WOOD Article Reprint Service, P.O. Box 349, Kalona, [A 52247, checkor moneyordermadepayableto WOOD magazine.
,o
ilrr WOOD rnagazine
April 2002
back
talkin
andtimelyupdates comments, boardforletters, Ourbulletin
Increase the performance of your cyclone the plansfor the I downloaded fromyourWeb cyclonedustcollector site,and builtit prettymuchas shown.My only departureswere a 2-hpblowerand feltfilterbags. Neutral At the end of a 4' lengthof duct vane connectedto the cyclone'sinlet,I measuredan air flow of 350 cfm. Afterinstallinga "neutralvane" insidethe cyclone,shownon Drawing1, the flow increasedto 525 cfm. This is a significant increasein performancefor such and is well a simplemodification, out. worthtrying -John Dillbeck, Mo. ShellKnob,
Drilling for quarters Yourframeddisplaycasefor commemorativestatequartersis a drop-dead projectthat l'm surelotsof peoplewill wantto make("OurCountryin Quarters" i n i s s u e1 3 1 ) . You specifyusinga 1" Forstnerbit to drillthe %o"-deepholesfor the quarters. And becausethis resultsin a loosefit, you say to use a removableadhesive underneathto keepthe quartersnice and aligned.Well,thiswillwork,but why not save yourselfthe trouble?| used a r5lro"Forstnerbit to drillmy holesand then "punched"the quartersin place with a 3/+"dowel.The fit is perfect.No adhesiverequired! -Tom Epps, Denver
E nnootFtcATloN
Another reader recently called usfor advice on building the cyclone, and described the same sort of deflector inside an old cyclone that was once part of a piece of farm machinery. Perhaps they knew something we didn't when we designed our cyclone. It wouldn't be too dfficult to retrofit an existing cyclone in this manner. But better yet, incorporating a similar detail in a new cyclone would simplify its construction. Whenforming the teardrop-shape cutout in the cyclone's cylinder (H), leave three tabs around its perimeter, where shown on Drawing 2. Bend the tabs into the cylinder, and trim the end of the inlet duct (l) at an angle so it clears the outlet duct. Insert the inlet and pop-rivet the tabs to it, where shown on Drawing 3. Seal around the inlet/cylinderioint on
Thanks, Tom,for your suggestion,but we would sound a note of caution. Force fitting a quarter into alsha" hole might split one of the states like West Virginia or
the outsi.dewith caulk
, Tennesseewhere the coin recesscomes I very close to its edge. Even if you got a t quarter into Texas or Arizona without
^YftLeave.r,,rabsto --------t.--"/
; splitting it, seasonal wood shrinkage ' woulcl probably do the job. : What nmy be the perfect solution comes ' from Rockler Woodworking and : Hardware. Anticipctting a needfor dis: playing these comntemorative quarters,
attach PartQ'
@
I they are selling a special quarter-size ; (.995") carbide-tipped Forstner bit (cata: Iog no. 26057) for $21.99. To order one,
OPTION EI CYI.IIVDER-NEW
E IruWT-NEWOPTION
' call 800/279-4441. Continued on page l0 WOOD magazine
April 2002
36
Footbridge is short a couple of spindles I justfinished making thegarden footbridge featured in issue133,andam extremely happywiththewayit turned out.lt'sbetterlooking thanthepictures. Thereare,however, a coupleof corrections thatshouldbe noted.TheRail Holesdrawingon page43 showsholes for 16spindles on eachside.Thephotographs andBridgeSidesdrawingon page46 show18spindles. Also,theRail EndandCenterMountsdrawingon
drawings wereveryaccurate andeasyto follow.I'ma rookieat thissoftof thing, andI wantto thankyouforthewonderful,constructive hoursI spenton this project. Thisbridgeis thecenterpiece of my backyard. -Tom Mateer,Naperville, lll.
Thanksfor your compliments,Tom,and you're right about the spindleholesand the centermounts.Seethe drawings, below and ight for the corrections.
page44 impliesthat the bottomends of both the end No screwsin shadedareas mounts(l) and the center Bottomrail@ mounts(J) have a 15o bevel.Only the end mounts needthe bevel,The center mountsare cut square. Center Asidefrom thesetwo rail@ items,your instructions and
Buying guide revised for the arched-top clock
411q" 613/ro
Not untilrecently.Some good friends of mine were aboutto move intotheir Pleasenotethe revisions. indicated dream retirementhome,whichwas belowin red type,to the almosttwo years in the buildingand on BuyingGuidefor the whichthey were puttingthe finishing arched-topclockin touches.The weekendbeforethey were i s s u e1 3 8 . to move in, fire totallydestroyedtheir new home.The cause?A pile of wet Brrying Grride trrass KnoDs n0. stainingragsaccidentallyleft on the 39500, $1.25 each(4); wood floor. press-in 5%"-diameter I hope this letterwill hit home with clockmovement no, 15343, $11,95.Order your readersand save someoneelse fromKlockit, P,0.Box from such a tragicaccident. 636,LakeGeneva, Wl -John R. Good,Kewanee, lll, 53147, orcall800/5562548,orgoto www.klockit,com.
Don't fet youS drearn home go up in s'moke l'ma regular readerof WOODa, andI havereadyourfrequent cautions about therightwayto storepotentially combustible staining materials andsupplies. Butyourgoodadviceneverreallyhit homewithme. 10
E HB P-,"f; f'.:'sxsi ;d Y',?B 6 1 3 / ro
L
41|c"
,, 1 holes
21/q"deep,drilled 41/q"on center
No screwsin shadedareas 45"
Wehopeso too, John,and thanksfor writing. Just to underscoretlrcpoint, stainingragsaren't the onlypotential problem. Ragssoakedwith drying oils, suchas boiledlinseedoil and Danish-oil finishes,arejust asprone to spontaneous combustionif not handledproperly. Don't takechances.Neverrellt on "airtight" containers.Lay out (or hang up to dry as shown,left)any ragsor paper towelsyou've usedto apply thesefinishes.
Write Us! Doyouhavecomments, criticisms, suggestions,or maybe evena compliment specifically relating to an articlethatappeared in W00b magazine? Pleasewriteto: TalkingBack W00Dmagazine 1716LocustSt.,GA310 Des Moines,lA flX109-3{f23
[email protected]. Dueto the volumeof lettersande-mailswe receive,wecanrespondto andpublishonly thoseof thegreatestinterestto ourreaders.
WOOD magazine
April 2002
great
ideas for your shop
rip-felilce
saddfe An inerq)ensive,shop-built jig for top-notch machining and joinery
uild this auxiliary wood fence and mating saddleto bevel-cutthe post capsfor the pergolaon page 61, or
build it for supportingstilesandotherworkpiecesasshownin thephotoat right.Use onehandto pushthe saddleandworkpiece acrosstheblade,andyourotherhandto keepthe saddleriding firmly on theauxiliary fence.Wax thematingpiecesif necessaryfor easysliding. Note: Our auxiliaryfence is screwed securelyto our metal tablesawrip fence, withthe top edgeof thefencesittingI" abovethe top edgeof the metalfence. The awriliaryfence mustbe 90" to the saw table.Sizeyour woodfenceso the saddle rides smoothly,withoutfree play, along the top edgeof the auxiliaryfence. *
Positioned to center the workpiece over the dado blade, the jig is the perfect setup for machiningbridle joints or open mortises and the mating tenons.
3/+xBx 8" plywood
1 I
8"
3/+x2x8" stock
lllustration:Roxanne LeMoine; Tim Gahill Photograph:Baldwin Photography 3/cx 11h x 8" stock
Tablesawrip fence
to rip fence
RIP.FENCESADDLE
WOOD magazine
April 2002
short cuts Newsandnotesfromthewoodworking world
A touching tribute fromAmericats
woodworking clubs After the tragediesof September11,2001, peopleacrossthe country askedwhat they could do to help. In SanRamon, California,just eastof SanFrancisco,a woodworkernamedPhil Cullen hatched an ideathat took hold in severalwoodworking clubs acrossAmerica.The idea: build flag casesfor the families of police officers,firefighters,and otherswho lost their lives from the terrorists'acts. At that point, Phil e-mailedhis idea to severalwoodworkingclubsto seeif they were up to building the needednumberof flag cases.As Phil describesit, the responsewas both instantand impressive. "GeorgeDuBois from the Guild of OregonWoodworkersvolunteeredto be the nationalcoordinatorof the effort. He
Seen here with Diablo woodworking club members, founder of WUFA Phil Cullen (middle row, second from right) has received the nod to make the flag case for the chief of the FDNY who lost his life on September11.
contactedkey officials at the Pentagon and spokewith membersof otherwoodworking clubs." In no time, the ideagrew into a nationwideorganizationthat is referredto asWoodworkersUnited for America (WIJFA). Phil's local Diablo woodworkingclub, above,pitchedin andmade60 cases; otherclubs,suchasthe DesMoines WoodworkersAssociation,right, and otherIowa clubs mademore than 50 cases.Clubs from practicallyevery state in the country,includingAlaskaandHawaii,
Membersof the DesMoineswoodworking club showoff theirflag cases.This batchis slatedfor the familiesof those lost in the Pentagon.DickMeuler(center right)headedup the effortin lowa.
volunteeredtheir woodworkingtalents andtime.And becauseof the tasksize.the Want to help? Contact the WUFA regional representative nearest you. work continues.And that'sto saynothing -1307 George DuBois, 503/365-7636 LarryRine,8151577 of the distributionlogistics.Solicitedcomgdubois@woodworkersunitedforamerica.org
[email protected] paniesfrom aroundthe country alsoare BillTarleton, 925/939-8052 Mickey Hudspeth, 770l441-9202 doingtheir part by donatingglass,wood, 6 btarl@attbi,com
[email protected] and flags to help the woodworkingclubs. DickMeuler, 515/967-7686 dmeuler@woodAl K.Spitzer Jr.,603/669-3416 Thoughthe constructionof the triangu3 workersunitedforamerica,org alspitzer@woodworkersu nitedforamerica.org lar casesvariesfrom club to club. the JohnE.Mielcarski, ' 4 ' EarlAshurst,9721727-3542eashurst@wood 3151476-6571 basicplan (found on the Internetat workersunitedforamerica.org
[email protected] www.woodworkersunitedforameric a.org) t/qx33/axl8s/q" Mr.RayTaylor, 703/490-8103 calls for sides that measure I yar_rolyat@hotmai l.com and a z/qx3t/qx26Vz" base.Sideendsare miteredat22Vz' and45",andheld together with splines.Groovesin the sidesand basekeepthe glassin place,while a plywood back fits into rabbetededgesand screwsoff to hold a folded flag inside (typically, one that is 5x8' or 5x9Vz'). If you, too, would like to help WUFA, whetheryou are a woodworkingclub memberor not, contactthe nearestregional representative usingthe map at left. For more info, log onto their Web site.al
r n
ffi
m r
Photographs:Chris Kammeyer; Baldwin Photography WOOD magazine
April 2002
develop your shop skills
simple
steip builtrrrg
Get off the ground one step at a time with a framing square and these tricks of the trade.
deckbuilt closeto the ground,like the one shownabove,givesyou
Measurefrom the top of the deck surfaceto the ground.This numberis the an excellent chance to learn the total "rise" of the steps. skills of stepbuilding.You'll usethe same Now, you needto makesurethat each principlesthat apply to any run of steps, of the individualstepshasan equalrise. but you canpracticethemwith small,eas- If one or more are off, vour feet will ily handledpieces. feel the difference. We'll showyou how to build stepswith Divide the total rise by the preferred openstringers,which supportthe treads rise of eachstepin inches---cither6 or from underneath.Laying out these 7 will give you a comfoftablestep.The stringersrequiresaccuratemeasurements resultprobablywill includedecimals, and a bit of arithmetic.After that, it's just so round it to the nearestwhole number a matterof making basiccuts. to determinehow many stepsyou'll build. Now, dividethe overallriseby Figrrre the rise the numberof stepsto get the actual Take a look at the drawingsbelow to get rise per step.Seethe box at right for a familiar with step-buildingterminology. typicalcalculation. Now let's get to the constructiondetails.
Figrrre
t"
Stringer-_.//2
.1
the run
The total "run" is the horizontaldistancefrom the edgeof the deck to the bottom end of the stringers,as shownin the drawing.The run of an individual stepequalsthe width of the tread-l 1" is typical. Continuedon page 18
The total run of a set of steps equals the distance from the edge of the deck to the point where the stringers rest on a pad. The total rise is the distance from pad to deck top. Each step consists of a riser and tread.
16
Step building by the numbers Here'san exampleof how to figurea stair run for a low deck.In this case,the top of the deck is 26" abovethe ground. 1. Dividethe total rise by your chosen riserheightof either6" or 7" (26 divided by 6 = 4.33). 2. Roundup or downto the nearest wholenumberto get the actualnumber of steps (4). 3. Dividethe total rise by the numberof stepsto get the actual rise per step (26 dividedby 4 = 6.5, or 6V"'). You can add or subtracta step and dividethat numberintothe total rise if you're not satisfiedwith the riserthat you calculatethe firsttime. lf you end up with a risernumberthat'snot a wholenumberor standardfraction,one riserwill be slightlydifferentthan the rest. Make it the first one at the bottom end of the stringer. As for treadwidth,consider11" the standard.As you makeyour plans, allowfor one lesstreadthan the number of risers.Becausethe stringer attachesto the deck joist belowthe level of the deck surface,the deck itself servesas the top tread. Beforeyou buy or rough-cutstringer boards,calculatethe approximate lengthyou'llneed.Add up all of the tread widthsto find the total run of the steps. Use a tape measureto mark that pointon the ground,then measurefrom thereto the highestpointwherethe stringerwill contactthe deckjoist.This numberis the stringerlength. WOOD rnagazine
April 2002
develop your shop skills
The treadcanbe one wide boardor severalnanowerboards with equalgapsin between.We useda pair of lV+xl%" compositedeckingboardsto makeeachtread,or you canusepres2x lumber.To matchthe deckdesign,we attacheda sure-treated boardto eachsetof risercutsso that its top edgeservesaspart of the tread,as seenin the lower right photoon page20. lt's
morecommonto fit thatriserboardunderthe tread,leavinga 1" overhang. Figurethe approximatelengthof your stringers,asdescribedin the box on page 16, andmark the spotwherethey will sit on the ground.Installa 4"-thick concretepadon a 4" gravelbaseto sup-
Lay out the stringers Now you're readyto lay out your stringersfor a two-step assembly,as shownin the drawingsbelow.Choosestraight pressure-treated 2x12 lumber,anddraw your linesso that any sienificantknotswill lie in the wasteareas.
@:inJ:::,,' gauge
on the outside edge of the square's long leg at the number equaling the run. The other gauge goes on the outside of the short leg, at the number equaling the rise.
EDrawasecondsetofriseandrun|ines,withthe the previousrun lineat the line intersecting lEflrise edgeof the board.Drawa third rise line,markits end point, then extend the line across the board.
starting from the end point.
@::1T?#T::f,: your framingsquare use
to mark the rise and run. This will be the top end of your stringer.
Thicknessof bottomplate Thicknessof tread
i: ifliffiiSii,Il??:f @li'"";:lli'?31,:fi xxl'";fi
to mark the waste areas, shown here in a lighter color.
1B
J[i,:ffi,s'ili"l[*:"8; @ il Hffi :'3.?,lll :llr""ol
the first tread. Then, mark the stringer's bottom end. Write "pattern" on your first stringer, and trace around it to lay out each of your other stringers. Continuedon page 20 WOOD magazine
April 2002
develop your shop
skills
Cut and assemble the steps Follow the techniquesoutlinedbelow to completethe steps. Use stainless-steel screwsthroughoutto avoid rust or corrosion problems.Make your stepsat least3'wide for safety,and useat least three sffingers,evenly spacedfor full supportunderfoot. For wider steps,you'll needto usemore stringers.Make the spacing24" or less.
" @$:"',tli"'J::,'"?=#i:;.?'ix,?:"xo""i5 THE STRINGER: Mount a coarse-toothed G#ICUT Ebladeinyourcircu|arsaw,thencutcarefu||ya|ong your layout lines. Always keep the blade on the waste siOe of the line. At the inside corners, stop when the leading edge of the saw blade reaches the perpendicular line. Use a handsaw or jigsaw to finish the cuts.
THE STRUCTURE: Attach a 2x12 base GI;IIIASSEMBLE Eplate to the bottom ends of the stringers with screws. Then, locate a2x12 backing plate at the top ends of the stringers, where it serves as the final riser, and attach it with screws. Set the assembly squarely in place atop your concrete pad. Secure the entire unit in place with several 3" deck screws through the backing plate and into the rim joist.
For open steps, let the treads overhang the stringers by about 1" at each end. We made each tread with two boards of the same composite material that covers the deck. Attach each board with two screws in each stringer.
@;l,'jf,JJilf:L';li:%:x1i""",:::Tf, il;:3'
cause tripping accidents, too. A single board nearly covered the gap in our steps. We used shims to coax the top edge flush with the next step, then fastened the board in place with a pair of screws into each stringer. lF Photographs: BaldwinPhotography lllustrations: RoxanneLeMoine
UIOOD magazine
April 2002
just-rightjoinery
rnark $zitfr O
O
Top-quality joints depend on layout lines that are accurate, sharp, and easy to follow. Try these tips in your workshop. Measure by holding your rule on edge, and fit the pencil point into the incised line. This method eliminates the slight inaccuracy that can result from looking across the thickness of a rule lying flat on your workpiece.
ure, you shouldmeasuretwice and cut once,but don't ignore the crucial stepin between. Mark thosemeasurements preciselyin your questfor perfectjoints. Here are a few basictools that will help you do just that, along with sometips about how to usethem. Use a pencil for most markingjobs, but make sureit's an accurateone. Don't settlefor a flat carpenter'spencil, or evena standardwriting pencil. Their lines get wider and wider as you usethem.Get a good mechanicalpencil, instead.We chosea model that uses0.5 mm lead,which producesa nilrrow, consistentmark. Marking knives comein handyat times becausea sharpknife makesthe finest line possible.However,remember that the cut can posea problemif it's visible in your finishedproject. Finally, equip your shopwith steel rules and squaresthat haveincised measurement lines.They'll be much more accuratethan tools with paintedon lines.Also, the incrementson your variousmarking tools shouldmatch one anotherexactly,so you can switch tools without losing accuracy.Comparethem to make sure.iF Photographs: Baldwin Photography
Make your mark with an arrow shape, like the one shown here. When you take the rule away, you'll still know the exact point that matched your measurement. The longer leg denotes the waste side of the cut to be made through this point.
To draw a line after measuring a dimension, hold the pencil point on the tip of the arrow, then slide your square or rule until it contacts the pencil. This method ensures that your line will match the point. Now, pull the pencil along the square.
For a line parallel to an edge, place the pencil at the correct spot, then adjust your combination square to match. Put the grooved side up, so the pencil won't slip into the notch. Hold the pencil against the square as you slide it along the edge.
Use a knife that's flat on one side and beveled on the other to define a recessed area, such as a hinge mortise. The line will guide your chisel. This marking knife, item number 127680 in the Woodcraft catalog, costs $11.99. Call 8OOl225-1 153. WOOD magazine
April 2002
our project builderstalk shoP
lrrrying gfass= aclearview
Size,price, optionswhat you need to know to be a smart shopper hen we designedthe television standonpage 46,we wanteda glasstop to comPlement its clean,crisp lines and to highlight the beautifulmapleand mahogany.Once that decisionwas made,a whole rangeof issuescameinto play.
Design with price and in rnind availabitity In our original plan, we sizedthe glass to fit the project. But, we were surprised by the almost$100 price tag from our local supplier for the Vzx26x36"top piece that the TV restson. We also plannedto make the stand'sadjustable shelf from %" glass.Though smaller, this piecewas almostas expensive.The high price, we learned,was becauseboth pieceshad to be custom-cutto size. We turnedto a mail-orderglasssupplier that offereda Vzx24x36"pieceof glassat a much lower price: $66. So we modified the standfor the 2"-narrowerpiece.The lesson:Justas with hardware,it's critical to determinethe glassyou'll usebefore finalizing the designor cutting wood. Norm Levine of WholesaleGlass Brokers(seethe Buying Guide below) saysmany local glasssuppliersstockrelatively small glasssheets.Often, the cutoffs from thesesheetsare too small to be usedastabletops,so you maYend up essentiallypaying for the waste. Lar:geglassretailers,suchashis, buy very largeglasssheets.This resultsin lower cost,as one sheetcan yield many smaller pieceswith lesswaste.
Keep in mind, also, that thicker glassalwayscostsmore than thin glass.We could haveused 3/s"glassand savedaboutI0Vo of the cost, but we felt the Vz" glasslookedbetter.Glasstabletops are also availablein V+", 3/+" Tell , and 1" thicknesses. your supplier what weight the glassmust hold and the span betweensupportsto determine the proper thickness.
II
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1" Bevel
Hold your ternper Glass,of course,canbreak,and Chamfer the thoughtof a televisionor Grandma's china smashedatop shardsof broken glass "standard" profile for a tabletop. Most isn't pleasant.That leadsmany peopleto supplierscan producethe custom edge believe they needtemperedglassfor a designsshown,and sometimesmore. tabletop.Temperedglassis four to five Expectto pay at least50Vomorc for a times sffongerthan standard,but more cost. customedgethan the standard-edge expensive.Standardglasswill beara surOttr Vzx24x36"piecewith a 1" bevel prising amountof weight-aVz" piece would havebeen$118. supportedevery two feet will bear about Dependingon where your tabletop will 80 poundsper squarefoot. SeeAsk be located,you may want to consider WOOD in issue#137 for more informaradiusedor cut corners,like thoseshown tion. Also, tabletopsseldomare subjectto heavyimpacts,so usestandardglass.Save below.Most suppliersoffer this service, with or without a customedgeprofile, and the temperedglassfor doors,room can ffim the cbrnersanywherefrom 1" to dividers, and areassubjectto impacts. 6" for addedsafety. If theseoptions aren't enough, Add life to the edge round and oval tops are availGlassedgescan be finishedin a variety of able,too. For a price, you can ways. Someof the common profiles are get glasscut in almostany shownabove.We chosea flat-polished shapeimaginabte.i edgefor our televisionstand.This style, zu or a flat-groundprofile (similar but lllustrations: Tim Cahill is often the with a frostedappearance), Guide Buying write tabletops, onglass information Formore
Ste.357, MileRoad, WTwelve 19785 GlassBrokers, Wholesale orcall800/288'6854, Ml48076, Southfield, WOOD magazine
April 2002
wide world of wood
How dry should vvood fte?
your
How dry is dry when it comes to woodworking stock?That depends on what you're planning to build, as well as where you'Il build it. ood freshly cut from a log, calledgreenwood, can contain a lot of water.And the amountoften variesbetweenthe heartwood and the sapwood.(Seethe chart on page 28 for the greenmoisturecontentof somecommonlyusedwoods.)That's becausewood is actuallya network of close-knitcells-like microscopicopen barrels-with spongelikewalls. These cellshold andtransportthe tree'ssap,also known asfree water. Someof the free water alsogetsabsorbed,saturatingthe cell walls and becomins.boundwater.
Why rnoisture
tmatters
As wood dries,it first losesthe free water to the atmosphere.The bound water, though,takeslongerto escape.(Think of a sponge.Wringing it out getsrid of the free water,but the spongestaysdampuntil all the water escapesfrom its cell walls.) Moisturein the air influenceshow quickly and completelywood dries.The lower the relativehumidity, the more waterthe wood losesand the drier it gets. Wood neverdriesout completely,but eventuallyreachesan equilibriumpoint basedon the humidity of the air aroundit. Given the averagerelativehumidity of the United States,air-driedwood can reacha minimum moisturecontentof only about 12-15 percent.That's good enoughfor boardsutilized in building construction and outdoorprojects.
To further reduce wood's moisturecontentand makeit fit for indoor use.sav for The advisable moisture content of wood furniture,manufacturersdry it in an ovenused for interior projects varies due to changes in relative humidity. Let wood like facility calleda kiln. The dry heat acclimate to its surroundings before slowly bringsthe wood'smoisturecontent cutting or assembly. down to anywherefrom 6 to 9 percent may shrink and check,split, warp, (typical for hardwoodspnly). Those or causejoints to fail asit dries. percentages are more in line with the Commercialprocessors relativehumidity found in modernheated wood to the delivering buildinss. anddehumidified furniture and floorins
Where rnakes
you live a differerlee
Accordingto datacompiledby the U.S. ForestProductsLaboratoryGPL) in Madison,Wisconsin,the recommended moisturecontentfor wood destinedfor interior usevariesacrossthe nation.as shownin the mapabove.For maximum stability,the moisturecontentof such wood shouldvary only about I percentfrom thoselimits. Wood that's too dry may expandand make drawershard to open, or evenpushassemblies apart.Woodthat's too moist. a much more cornmon problem,
Continued on page 28
wide world of wood industrygenerallydry wood to a moisture contentslightly lower than it will finally encounter.This practiceassumesthat the wood will take on somemoistureduring furtherprocessingand consffuctionstages.
for proiects that last, care io- yorrr wood If you're suspiciousof the moisturecontent of the wood you arebuying, askthe supplierto checkit for you. It might pay for you to buy a moisture meter (from $70 to $150),especiallyif you buy air-driedor rough-milledstock.With a meter,you can checkwood's moisturecontentbeforevou buy, and then track it at home. Most moisturemeterswork by passinga small electricalcunent betweensensor pins insertedabout Vq"into the wood. More moisture ffansfersmore current, resultingin a higher percentagereading. For the most accuratereading,checkseveral locationsalongthe board'sedgeor
heartwood sapwood hardwood species face,or cut a few inches 113* Ash, white 95 from one end and check the Hickory 70 52 end grain.Ask first; suppli- Maple, sugar 72 65 69 80 Oak, red ers may frown on poking 73 Walnut, black 90 holesin their stock.Pinless metersare also available. sapwood heaftwood softwood species 249* 58 Gedar, red Always let your wood 115* Fir, Douglas 37 acclimateto the relative 210* 86 Redwood humidity whereit will be * Becausemoisturecontentis definedas the weightof the used,rememberingthat dry wood will pick up moisture water expressedas a percentageof the wood's dry weight, not the total greenweight,it oftenexceeds100 percent. from the atmosphere.If it's for your home,stickerthe into a project.As relativehumidity wood (stackit with wood spacers)for a changes,wood still absorbsand sheds week or more in an areawith the same moisture.The bestway to minimize this relativehumidity beforemachiningit. (Checka pieceof furniture in your home is to sealall surfacesof the completed project,notjust the exterioror exposed and compareit to your stockfor a benchparts,with a few coatsof finish. aF mark.) You alsocan storestockstanding straightup, but neverput dry stock Written by Peter J. Stephano directly on a concretefloor. lllustrationinformationprovided by the U.S. ForestProducts Laboratory Don't think that wood movementstops Photograph:Baldwin Photography onceboardsare machinedand assembled
28
WOOD magazine
April 2002
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forming over the knots. Generally, a sawmill doesn't saw boardsout of the middle of a big tree becausethe knots About20walnuttreeswillbe start to show up." fi proiect Dan Johnson,with the U.S. Forest taken out for a highway Y in ourarea,thelargest beingabout12" Servicein Indiana, saysfederal hardwood in diameter. Arethesetreestooyoung gradingcategoriesdon't go below an 11" diameter.He saysthe best time to harvest to salvage for lumber? -,9teveDiSeruio. wbW00DONLINEmost hardwoodtrees-including walnut, oak, hickory, and cherry-is when they measure24" to 28" in diameterat breast You might get a few boardsout height. Growth slows after that. of them, Steve,but they're a long -{t1,00Domagaine way from their prime as lumber sources. According to Joey Gallion, a forest products specialistwith the Indiana Rernoving a chrrck Departmentof Natural Resources,a I2"diameterwalnut tree will contain a high takes rrlore than lrrck proportion of light-colored sapwood,and 1|i NowI knowwhatthe"immovable obiect"reallYis-it's the the heartwoodwill have a large number Y chuckon mydrillpress.I triedto of knots. "Hardwood treeshave a lot of remove it so I couldinstalla mortising limbs in the beginning, then as those limbs get shadedout and die, knots accessory, andhadnoluckwhatsoever.What'sthesecret?. remain," Joey says."As the tree grows -Dave Goodman, Calif. Carmichael, bigger, you get good-quality wood
trefiore its lirnc
Smallwatnuttrees produce boardslike this one. Insteadof clear,dark heartwood,you get knots and white sapwood.
Sapwood 32
Amazing how tight a Morse-taper
connectioncan be, isn't it, Dave? Here's the right way to remove the typical drill-press chuck. Lower the quill, exposingthe slot in its side. Inside the slot, you'll seedaylight through a gap. You should have receiveda tapered piece of steel with your drill press,a tool that we've seenreferred to as a wedge or drift key. If you don't have that tool-it's the kind of item that tendsto disappearover the years-ask your dealer to get a replacement from the manufacturer. Or, go to a machine shop and have one made.Make sure the
It doesn'ttake much force to drive the chuck out of your drill presswith a wedgeand a hammer. machinist includes a hole at the wide end, then run a string or plastic tie through that hole, and hang the tool somewhereout of the way on your drill press. Raisethe table until it almost touches the chuck, or have someonehold the chuck. Insert the narrow end of the tool into the gap, and tap the wide end with a hammer,as shown in the photo above. That should force the chuck to drop out. To reinstall the chuck, slide it firmly back into the quill, place a board on the table, and raise the table until the board contactsthe chuck. Open the belt housing on top of the drill press,place a block of hardwoodon thg exposedend of the spindle, and tap it wittr a hammerto set the chuck's Morse taperin place. JrVOOD magazine
rWhatts the key to staining end grain? | am building anArtsandCratts f| mirror frame out ofquartersawn Y whiteoak.I planto usea Watco dark theend walnutfinish.Howdo I prepare grain?Myexperience withotherwoods is thattheendgraintendsto soakup lotsof stainandgetmuchdarkerthan thefacegrain. -Kevin Herber; Austin, Texas Continued on page 34
WOOD magazlne
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ask wood I apply a one-poundcut of shellac on the end grain.Anothergood way is to usewhite glue mixed with water and apply it on the end grain. -MichaelDeBonis, Yardlev, Pa. Take a pieceof scrapand sand the end grain with sandpapera coupleof gradesfiner than the sandpaper you usedon the facegrain.Test stainit to seehow well it matcheswith the face. Use sandpaperon your turnings, ratherthan burnishingwith shavings.Hold the -Jim Green, Placentia, Calif. paper like this, to keep your fingers safe in case the paper catches on the wood, We've heardthat too, Ron, but it's an old-timemethodthat's beenmadeobsoleteby today'smaterials. ProfessionalwoodturnerAlan Lacer using handful a of shavings to says,"Turnersusedto do that to give the Y burnishtheirworkon the lathe.I've wood someluster,but that was before justfinisheda spalted-maple bowl,and we had 320-gritsandpaper."Out of l'm wondering, whatarethe prosand curiosity,Alan experimentedwith a couconsof thattechnique? ple of samples,onepine and one hard -Ron, yr,a W00DONL|NEo maple.On eachpiece,he rubbedshav-
To brrrnish or rrot to brrrnish . . . woodturners talkabout 1|i Some
34
ings on one portion and used320 paper on the rest. "The resultswith sandpaper were far superiorto the shavings,"Alan reports.He found that the shavingscut little groovesin the pine.They didn't groovethe mapleas noticeably,but they didn't do much to improveit, either. If you really wantto burnisha turning, you couldusea roundbar of steel. However,Alan pointsout that anyburWOOD magazine
II I
.
Uariable unlimited
lI
April 2002
I
I
ask wood thengo aheadwith staining-if you're : wood afteryou applya smooth,consistent the momentyou nishedlook disappears ot* finish to the table' seton usinga stain.(Skippingthe stain applya liquid finish."And if you burnish 'take' -vv00Dmagazine and going directlyto a cleartopcoatof it reallyhard,somestainswon't , very well," he says.Our advice:Forgetthe varnishor lacquerwould eliminatethe risk of a dark spot.) on doing burnishing,andjust concentrate : Got a question? forananswer toa woodworking looking it's difficult ; lf you're When sucha spotappears, a thoroughjob of sanding. writetoAskW000, 1716Locust St., -W00Domagazineto eliminate.You would haveto sandthe , question, lA50309-3023 orsendus GA310,DesMoines, . entiresurfacebelow the extentof the
[email protected]. i ane-mailat damage,or hide it with fairly sophisticated; atefeedback post fromyourfellowwoodworkers, groups ononeofourdiscussion at The goodnews, touch-uptechniques. like the dent, Didntt i yorrquestion : www.woodonline.com. accordingto Bob, is thatthe spotwill really hates the spot appearto be a naturalcharacteristicof the 1|ri Whilebuildinga tableof hard
maPle,I accidentallY dentedthe !| top.I ironedout the dentwitha warm ironanddampcloth,sandedthrough all the gritsagainto 220,andsawno of scorching.ButwhenI evidence applieda colonialmaplestain,a black wherethe denthad spotappeared been.I'vetriedsandingandbleaching, but can'tgetthe spotout.Whatcaused elseI can this,andis thereanything do to fix it? -Ed Cloonan, Cincinnati
Soundslike you took all the right steps,Ed, but the resultingdefect is not uncommon.FinishingexpertBob Flexnersaysthat steamingout a dent "stretches"the wood fibersand makes that spot softerthan the surrounding wood.When you apply stain,sometimes the repairedareasoaksup more colorant andbecomesdarker.It's impossibleto predict,however,so all you can do is sandthoroughlyafter fixing the dent,
You can steam out small dents in wood with an ordinary household iron, but staining might leave a dark spot.
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edgesas shownin the SpindleCarriageCross Sectiondrawing, I w entto the Fi nal l y, lathe,turnedeachend of the carriagelo 1t/2" i n di ameter. and mounted the carriageintothe bearingassembly. To usethe j i g, I attacha zero-clearance fence, auxiliaryfenceto my router-table to the length a straight bit cut and set and diameterof the tenon,Next,I positionthe jig in my routertable'smiterslot Whilebuildingan Artsand Crafts-style so thatthe spindlecarriageis centered on the routerbit,and clampit to the bed recently,I didn'texactlyrelishthe thoughtof chiselingthe 54 roundspindle tabletop.Then,I fire up my router,insert holesintosquaremortises.Yet the rails a scrapof spindlestockintothe carriage,and gentlyplungeit intothe spinweretoo wideto fit intomy benchtop jig, ningbit untilthe stocktouchesthe auxilmortiser.So, I madethe router-table shownabove,to cut roundtenonson the iaryfence.One completeclockwiserotaroundsoffthe spindle. tionof the carriage squarerails. Finally,I test-fitthe roundtenonin a The heartof the jig is the spindlecarrailhole,and adjustthe bit height,if necriage,whichI madeby firstcuttinga right-angled V-groovein a 14t/z"long essary,to fine-tunethe fit. Oncesatispieceol7/8"hardwood. Aftercrosscutting fied,I switchto the actualspindlesand the groovedpieceintotwo 7" lengths,I startcrankingout roundtenons. -Tom Frever, gluedthemtogetherand beveledthe Phoenix
Solrrcd: Sqrrarte peg in rorrnd hole
36
They say the longera couple staystogether, the more they becomelike eachother,and that seems to be true in the caseof Tom Freyerand his wife of 45 years,Samantha. Our Top ShopTip winnerlovessteam enjoysthe old engines,andSamantha machinery,too. You'll oftenfind husbandandwife, sideby side,working with wood as well. "Sometimes,shedoesmy finishing," Tom says,"and whenI built new cabinetsfor our kitchen,Samantha punchedthe brassinsertsfor the upper cabinetdoors."Tom seemsto have beena prettygoodcatchhimself,judging from his Top ShopTip, at left. '
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For sending this issue's Top Shop Tip, Tom Freyer receives a Tool Dock TD300CH Router Station from Waterloo lndustries. Terrific tip, Tom!
--ili
Tell us how you've solveda workshop puzzler,and we'll sendyou $75 if we print your solution.And, if your tip is chosenas the Top ShopTip of the issue,you'll alsowin a tool prize worth at least$250. Sendyour besttips,alongwith photos or illustrationsand your daytime telephonenumber,to: Shop Tips, WOODaMagazine,lTL6 Locust St., GA-310,DesMoines,IA 50309on our 3023.Or postyour suggestions group at Top ShopTip discussion www.woodonline.com. Becausewe try to publishonly original tips,pleasesendyour tips only to WOOD magazine.Sorry,but we can't returnyour materials.
WOOD rnagazine
April 2002
Good
to tlre finish
Here'san age-oldproblem:applying finishto all sidesof a projectin one session.My solution:the portablefinishing rack,shownbelow.Buildingthe rackis prettystraightforward-justmakesure you alignthe holesin the top and bottom
An irattractivett
idea
piecesof perforated Insert hardboard. the sharpeneddowelswherethey best supportyour project.lf you breakor dull the fine points,you can touchthem up a g a i nwi tha qui cktri pto the penci l s h a rp e ner, -David Luttrell, Xenia, )hio,viaW00D0NLINE@
for drrst hoods
I recentlyoutfittedmy shopwitha dust- , the tool sectionof my localhomecenter strong collection system,includinga lathedust : for lessthan $5. The surprisingly part lathe magnet holds fast to the cast-iron hood (Woodcraft,8001225-11 53, thedusthood no. 141207)I.ns te a do f p e rm a n e n tl y bed, yet I can reposition instantlv anvwhere at:i:,:x;:;i;rht mountingthe hoodto the lathebed, I city, Mo round magnet I found in attacheda that ,
Continued on page J8
37
shop tips Need a tern1rorary table? Pipe up! I havea smallshop,so benchtopspace whenit is alwaysan issue,especially To gain comestimeto finishmy projects. the extrarealestate,I makea temporary tableout of a pieceof plywoodand four as 3' pipeclamps.Whenassembled, shownat right,it's at a perfectworking it only height,and whendisassembled, takesup as muchspaceas the plywood. -Darin Wallace, viaW00D)NLlNEo
rnethod No-bandsaw to crrt corrrers
fit'.i; aa
familyI lovedthe Arts and Crafts-style magazine in WOOb room makeover the platerail issue132,and incorporated put togethera room and bracketswhen I for our firstchildlastfall.However,I don'thavea bandsaw,and cuttingmore than 30 of thoselittlebracketswitha copingsaw wasn'tat all appealing. Instead,I turnedto my drillpressand a 5" holesaw,as shownbelow. Atter waste removingthe half-moon-shaped piece,I cut the bracketblankwhere shownand nettedtwo brackets.This techniquesure madethe job go quickly, and I was surprisedat how littlesanding I had to do on the curves. -MatthewWhite, lnd. FortWayne,
WOOD rnagazine
April 2002
board.(Pressthe hardboarddownto the tabletopwitha pieceof scrapwooddurkeepingwellclearof ing this operation, Whilebuilding a s c a l emo d e lre c e n tl yI , bl ade.) neededto rip some %" stockto t/a"wide th e e m e rgi ng To rip my 1/2x1/8" strips,I startwith a e mb e r.R i p p i n g to m ak em iniat ur lu piecesthat smallagainstmy tablesaw blank.Usinga straightbit in my 7+"-thick routertable,I createat/+" rabbels/q" fencewas just beggingfor big trouble, fenceexten- deepin the edgeof the blank.Taking so I madea zero-clearance hardboard the blankbackto the tablesaw,I place sionfrom a pieceoI1/ex1x24" the rabbetfacedownand againstthe and an equallengthof 3/+"stock,as whichguidesthe edgeof the hardboard, shownbelow. blankthroughthe cut.Witha littletrial After installingan 80-toothcrosscut and error,I can adjustthe routerbit's bladein my tablesaw,I loweredthe cuttingdepthto wherethe rabbetleaves bladebelowthe tabletop.Next,I After fenceexten- me witha preciset/e"-thickness. clampedthe zero-clearance each rip, I re-routthe rabbetfor the next fence,set the sionto my tablesaw's rip.Onceset up, I neverhaveto readfenceso that the hardboardhungover just the bit'scuttingdepth. the lhen cranked the bladeby about1/2" , -Dan Myers, Kelso, Wash. h a rd t h ro u g h th e blade up sp inning
extGttZeto-clearance sion rmakes a rnini-rnill
Continued on page 40 wrvrn woodonline,com
shop tips Stow the bench, and save tlre storage yourFold-Down I readwithinterest projectin WOOb magazine Workbench issue139.WhenI designed a similar bench24 yearsago,I madeit so I could keepfrequently useditems,suchas glue bottlesandfasteners, at the ready,even withthemainbenchtop That dropped. bench,mademostlyof 2x4stockwitha plywood laminated 1t/2"-thick top,shown al right,is stillin usetoday.
portionof the The6"-widepermanent benchtop is boltedto mygaragewall.I usedbutthingesto makethe legset swingoutof thewayto stowthe bench. Usingmy lefthandto liftthefrontedge of the benchtop slightly, I grabthefront apronwithmy righthandand swingthe legsetflatagainst thewall,thenlowerthetop. -Jack Turnage, Kan. Shawnee,
3" butt hinges
1x6 stretcher
TOPVIEW
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Slide leg I assembly I right and , fold down' I top to store. I
on bottom side of top
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WOOD rnagazine
April 2002
a ceilingjoistwitha conduitstrap. to theflooranchor.(You'llneedto drill hangstoragehooksin the peg an accessholein thebottomto drivethe Finally, holes,andyourtoolson the hooks. a lotof storage screwsintotheflooranchor.) Here'sa wayto squeeze louis Grivetti,Latonia,Ky. adhesive, cement Usingconstruction intoa smallamountof floorspace:a to thefloorat least18" theflooranchor rotating toolkiosk.Startby rippingthe fromthewall,andletcure.Attachthe perforated to width,joining hardboard insidethe topandbottomtriangles thethreepieceswithplasticcableties, sideswithscrews, as shownbelow,thencuttingandfitting perforated-hardboard You'llfind mordgre.atShOpTips the through plywood topandbottom. runa lengthol3/t"conduit thetriangular throughouteveryissue'of'WOOD@ intothe holes,thensliptheconduit magazine.Lookfor bot$hop'lipofthe Day )IWOOD lndex )tWood Profilss )tHallof Farne )tWoodworlcing Basics
UIOOD magazine
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April 2002
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44
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lust rcnraininu speciesol' an i;4i?*"1:he , rI:5 ancient trcc l'antilv that oncc .',t!'. t-angcclover Norlh Anrerica ancl northerrr ELu'o1tc. tlte lralclcypress ( T i t . u x l i u r t td i . t t i c l r t r n ri)s t r r - r l vu n i q u e . This tree is classifieclus a conif'crancla solirvt'roclbecause it has ncc-cllesrather t h a n l e a v e s . B L r t . b a l c l c v p l e s si s n ' t a n e v c r - ! : r e el n i k e o t h e rc u n i l ' e r sI.t s h e c l si t s (harclrvoocl) firliagc as ckr clecicluor-rs trecs. a trait shareclonly by the larch. Ancl. balclcypressf'eelseqLrallyat hortre grou ing in r,r'ater'or'on lancl. clr'1, In its SoLrthern raltgc. balclcl,;trc-ss o n c e g r e \ \ ' t o i n - r u r c n ssci z e s .T r e e s l - 5 0 ' t a l l u , i t h l 2 ' c l i a r n e t e rw s eren t Lrncorrrr . n o r tI.n t h c L o u i s i a n as w ' u l n l l sa n c lo t h c r places r,r'lrere it gron,s in stancls.itn lrcre of olcl-_cror,r'th lralclcypl'esstrees coLrld vielcl 100.0(X)btxrrclf'eetof' lLrnrber.By proporthc I930s. trccs o1'tl.rosc_ulancl t i o n s h a c la l l l ' a l l e nt o t l i e s a w ' .l ' u r n i s h i n - u c l e c a v - r e s i s t a n tl r o a r c l s a n c l t i r l t r e r s firl countless ckrcks. rvarchctuses.ancl otherstnlctures. Frorri Floriclato castcnt Tcxas thcrc's no\\' rur abnnclant sLr1tpl1, o1' seconclgro\\,'thbalclcyprcss. Althorrgh it isn't as resistant to clecay as thc- olcl-growth w ' o o c l .i t ' s s t i l l a n e x c c l l c n t c h o i c e l i r r olrtckror' prcr.jects. SaIvage o1terat ions aIscr contribLrtcto tlrc-sLrltplv.They provicle "sinkcr cyllress" olcl-sl'orvth logs clrcclgccl fkrrn lakes.rivcrs. anclswnn.tlts. Too. as clccrcpit facturics ancl wiu'eholrscsarc rcplacccl.stnrctlrraltintbcrsof olcl-gnrwthwoocl retltnt tcttlte saw.
Finding
the tree
afield
S w a n r l t f i t r c a si n t h e b a l c l c y p r e s sr a l t g e p r o v i c l e t i r c b c s t c n v i n t n r t r e l t tl o r t h e
WOOD rnagazine
April
2002
In its range, you'll find baldcypress relatively abundant. Elsewhere, it is becoming more available as an alternative to western red cedar and redwood. Baldcypress veneer is available from marquetry suppliers. You won't, however, find it availableas plywood.
largest trees. There, they'Il grow in stands, their thickly buttressed trunks providing storm-proof anchoragein the sodden footage. Baldcypress growing in water also feature above-waterextensions of their roots called "knees," which provide added stability and air to the tree. On drier ground, baldcypress trees stand unaided by knees and have lessbuttressing. Young baldcypresstreeshave a roughly conical shapewith a thin layer of light brown bark. As baldcypressmatures,it develops a thick, tapering trunk that approaches120'in height and a diameter of 3-5'. Its irregular crown of foliage is frequently drapedin Spanishmoss. The reddish brown, ridged bark peels off in long strips about 2" thick. Baldcypress' yellow-green needles (leaves) are Vz3/c" long and arranged spirally around the twig. Come fall, they turn yellow or brown before dropping to the ground. Scaly, purplecolored conesabout 1" long follow the blooms of spring.
fhe
wood
Batdcypress
and its rrses
Baldcypressheartwood,becauseit's so durable in contact with the ground, long ago earnedthe title "the wood eternal." Approximating the weight of cottonwood or willow at 28 pounds per cubic foot air-dry, the wood is somewhatsoft and even textured. Although it has a
Baldcypress is weather resistant and easy to work with, making it a good choice for outdoor projects, such as this potting bench found in issue 140.
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in the shop
Although fairly hard, baldcypressis easy to work with, behaving much like other softwoods,such as pine. . You can work straight-grainedbaldcypresswith hand or power tools. Though not prone to burn, usecarbide cutters and bladesfor the bestresults. . Tear-out isn't a problem when planing or machining straight-grained boards. Make lighter passes when working cathedral-grainedboards. . Baldcypressholds screwswell. Predrill shank holes, pilot holes, and counterboresto avoid splitting. . Baldcypress' waxy feel won't hinder gluing. Use weatherproofadhesivesfor outdoor projects. . Sandthrough 180-to 22D-gntabrasives to impart a smooth finish for fine projects. Baldcypresscan be left rough for use in construction or to provide a more rustic look on outdoor projects. . If staining, avoid cathedral-grained boards.The dark latewood absorbsless stain, as shown below. al waxy feel, baldcypress contains no resin ducts. The thin sapwood is much lighter in color than the pale- to reddish-brown heartwood, which carries an unpleasant odor. Baldcypress is also relatively sffong, stiff, and stable for its weight. It occasionally can have attractive, although not outstanding,figure. A fairly rare architecturalveneermade from baldcypresscrotch wood, called faux satine, is quite beautiful, as well as expensive. Traditional usesfor baldcypresswood include docking and structural timbers, siding, posts, boat planking, flooring, water tanks, coffins, and shingles.Don't overlook it, though, for both indoor and outdoor furniture, as shown at left. Somebaldcypressffees are attackedby a fungus that causespockets of decay. The resultantwood is riddled with small, shallow holes and is called "pecky cypress." Still durable, such wood is used for decorativepaneling.
Stained with "Antique Cherry," this baldcypress board takes a lighter tone in the denser latewood. Use wood conditioner or gel stain to achieve consistent color. Writtenby PeterJ. Stephano Illustration: SteveSchindler BaldwinPhotography Photographs:
45
lean lines,sleekstyling,and a touch of flair make this televisionstand the ideal placeto set your set. Buildit as a standalone piece or as paft of a matchinglivingroom ensemblewith the futon sofa/sleeper and modular knock-down shelving set, both shown at right. All three piecessharethe same designstyle and simpleapproachto construction. 46
The futon sofa/sleeperabove (issue 139)is great for sitting or snoozing.The modular shelving at lelt(issue 143)can be configured to match most any space or task thanks to special hardware.
' .H. #8 x 11/qF
screw I--wood t 11/2" 3" -
Il ense Tse"shank hole,
countersunk
21/z'
#8 x 1Yz'F.H. wood screw 3/+" lt7" t/a"chamfers
Staril at the base
3/c" milrogany, cut the I From I stretchers(A), foot bodies (B), and foot faces(C) to the sizeslisted in the Materials List. Laminate the feet (B/C), as shownin Drawing1. Once the glue dries, use a chamfer bit in your router to rout a %" chamfer around the boffom of eachfoot. Then clamp the feet to the stretchers,and drill the pilot and countersunkshank holes where shown. Glue and screw the stretchersto the feet. $ Cut the lower reveal trim (D) to &r2v2x20". Then notch each piece where shownin Drawing 1. This can be done using a jigsaw or bandsaw.Just make sure the edges of the notch are squareand straight. {} Finish-sandthe lower revealtrim (D) *) and the foot assemblies(A/B/C) to 220 gnt. Then glue the reveal trim to each foot assembly to create two base assemblies (A/B/C/D), leaving a V+" reveal on the sides,front, and rear edges, where shown in Drawing 1. If you wish to stain the base assemblies(AlBlClD), do so now. We useid Bartley's PennsylvaniaCherry gel stain. if Cutthe bottompanel (E) to sizefrom maple plywood. From 32" solid \t/q" maple, cut the bottom panel edging (F) to size,aswell. This is a good time to cut the adjustableshelf (G) and shelf edging (H) to size,too. f Glue the edging (F) to the front and iJback edgesof the plywood bottom panel (E). Sandthe edging flush with the faces of the bottom, taking care not to sand through the plywood's thin veneer layer. Also glue the shelf edging (H) to the shelf (G), sand them flush, then set this assembly (G/H) aside. Once the standis assembled,you can perform one last operationon the shelf to help keep it in position. Seethe shop tip on page 48. f, N"*t, glue and clamp the bottom lJ assembly (E/F) to the base assem-
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z/o+" pilot hole s/q"dee?
1 Tse"shank hole, countersunk 2V4" t/e" chamfer
blies (A/B lClD), then drill the pilot and countersunkshank holes, where shown in Drawing 1. Drive screwsto join the assembliestogether.
Add tlre ernds
3/4" poplar, cut the frame I From I tops/bottoms(I) and frame ends (J) to size. Glue and clamp the frames (VJ) together,keeping the ends flush, where shown in Drawing 2. ,Measure the frames' diagonals or use a framing square to check each for square, and place them on a flat surface while the glue dries. Once the glue sets, remove the clamps, drill pilot'and countersunk shankholes, and drive in the screws. {} Cut the four end panels (K) to size 3/q" maple plywood, making kfrom sure they match the length and width of the assembledframes. Chuck a VB" rabbetingbit in your router and rout %" rabbets V+" deeparound the perimeter of the good faces of all four panels,where shownin Drawing2. Q Choose two panels (K) to be the rlinsides of the end assemblies.Then lay out and drill the shelf pin holes in these two panels, where shown in Drawing2. Note: The dimensions shown for the shelf pin locations are measuredfrom the edge of the panel, not from the edge of the rabbet. accentuatethe reveal formed by '*ATo ttre rabbets around the end panels, stain the bottom of the rabbet,as shown in Photo A. Use the same stain you applied to the mahoganyparts earlier.
ffi Glue and clamp the panels(K) to the *# frame assemblies(VJ). Make sureto apply one shelf-pin-drilled panel to each assembly and check that the panel's edgesare flush with the frames. f, Cut the top/bottom trim (L) and end f# trim (M) to width and about I " longer than dimensionedin the Materials List. Fit the trim aroundthe panel assemblies (VJ|K), miter-cutting each piece to length. Glue and clamp the trim pieces in place, where shown in Drawing 2. After the glue sets, finish-sand the end assemblies(I through M). ff Cut the upper reveal trim (N) to size * from t/q" mahogany.Finish-sandthe pieces,then stainthe top face, edges,and ends with the same stain used earlier. Don't stain the bottom face. Glue the upper reveal trim to the end assemblies (unstained face down), leaving a Y4" reveal on all sides.
Mask the edge of the rabbet to keeP stain from accidentally bleeding onto it or the panel's surface.
47
stand
television
261/z'
21/z'
t'/4
13/q"
7sz"shankhole, countersunk
7+"-diameter rubberbumper
@
\
-1'(-
71/2"
I I t/e"chamfers 7 g z "s h a n k h o l e , c o u n t e r s u n ko n i n s i d e f a c e
(insideand out)
Brritd the bacl: Cut the back panel(O) to the dimensionslistedin the MaterialsList. As you cut the panel, remember that the grain runs veftically.Rabbetthe perimeter of the good face of the back panel, just as you did earlierwith the end panels, and apply stainto the rabbets. Use a Forstneror spadebit in your drill pressto bore the lt/2"-diameter holesthroughthe backpanel cord-access (O), where shown in Drawing2. (Once again, measurefrom the edges of the panel.)Chuck a chamferingbit in your router,and rout %" chamfersaroundthe holes on both faces of the panel. This easesthe edges,which reducesthe risk of chip-out when pulling wires through after the televisionstandis completed. From /+" solid maple, cut the back side trim (P) and top/bottom caps (Q) to size. Drill countersunkshank holesthroughthe back side trim, where shownin Drawing2. Clamp and glue the back side trim (P) and top/bottom caps (Q) to the back panel (O). Make sure the caps are flush with the face of the panel and that
I
A
7ez"shankhole, countersunk # B x 2 1 / q "F . H . on bottom
VIEW E EXPIODED
wood screw
to be packedawayor moved.Lay out the locationsof the mountingholes on the upper surface of the base assembly, where shown in Drawing2. Then, from the top side, drill a 5A2"shank hole at and Now finish each location. Turn the base assembly assernble your stand The base.end. and back assemblies facedown,and countersinkthe underside of eachof theseholes. simply screwtogether,meaningyou Becausethere are no glue joints to canbreakthe standdown if it ever needs worry about,go aheadand finish all the partsprior to assembly.We applieda I coat of gloss polyurethane,then sanded I lightly wrth 220 grit, and added two Solution for stay-put shelves coats of satinpolyurethane. To preventthe adjustableshelffrom sliding After the finish dries on all the you VCR DVD need or fonruardwhen to access assemblies,lay some cardboardon playerwires, we routed recessesfor the shelf your benchtopand assemblethe stand. pins.Afterassemblingthe stand,put the shelf in positionand mark aroundthe pins.Transfer The processis easierif you assemblethe the centerlinesto the end edgesof the panel. standupsidedown. Start by placing the Chuck a lz" slraightbit in your table-mounted back assembly(OlPlQ) on a 7+"-thick router,and raiseit for a Ve"-deep cut. Position scrapwood spacer. Position the end .thefenceto centerthe bit on the layoutmark. assemblies(I throughN) alongside,with Clampa stopblockto the fence,and rout a the upper revealtdm (N) restingon the 7e"-longrecessat each pin location. bench.Referringto Drawing2, you'll see
48
on theside trim facethe the counterbores inside.After the glue dries,finish-sand the back assembly(O/P/Q)to 220 grit.
WOOD magazine
April 2OOZ
#8 x 1t/z' F.H.wood screw
REVEALDETAIL
l
OE \NI 1/a
@
F=-1g" 't/q" hole t/2" dgep (inside face only)
@
\
v
'=-" I-r-\ 3" 6"
OE
\:2i
F
Va -->l
3"
F--
S I D EV I E W
F R O N TV I E W Miteredends that the back assembly is positioned /+" forward of the rear edges of the end assemblies. Temporarily clamp these assembliestogether. Place the base assembly on the ends and back, aligning it so the feet are flush with the outer faces of the end assemblies, as shown in Drawing 2a. Note that the rear edge of the back bottom cap (Q) should be flush with the rear edge of the bottom panel edging (F). Once you have everything aligned, use the countersunk mounting holes you drilled through the base assembly as guides. and bore'%:" pilot holes into the back and end assemblies.Then drive in the screws, as shown in Photo B. Using the shank holes in the back sides (P) as guides. drill pilot holes into the end assembliesand drive those screws. Remove the clamps and turn the stand right side up. Adhere clear rubber bumpers to the upper reveal trim (N), where shown in Drawing 2. Position the Vz" glass plate on top of the stand. For more information on the types of glass available and purchasing options, see "Buying Glass: A
Clear View" on page 24. Finally, insert shelf-support pins and position the adjustable shelf. Now you're ready to install your television and components, and sit back to watch the tube or at least jl admire the stand it sits on.
Rest the stand on cardboard to protect the finish. Use clamps to keep the pieces aligned as you drill and drive the screws. Writtenby David Stone with Charles l. Hedlund Projectdesign:Kevin Boyle Roxanne LeMoine;Lorna Johnson lllustrations: Photographs:Baldwin Photography
mnaterials list MY
A stretchers
Y4"
3"
19"
B footbodies
3/t'
3"
C footfaces
3h'
2Vq' MY MY
D*lowerrevealtrim
3/qu 21/z' 20'
panel E bottom panel F bottom e0grng
3/r' 3/q'
3/qu
shelf G adiustable
3/c'
15', 263/s',
12
MY
163/q' 30" 30"
3/4' Yi 263/a' M H shelfedging -Parts Seetheinstructions. initially cutoversize.
plywood, Key:MY-mahogany, MP-maple fl,{aterials M-maple, P-poplar. (38), #Bxlt/o' woodscrews Supplies: #8x11/2" flathead (11),#Bx2t/q" wood flathead woodscrews flathead pins(4), (6),spoon{ype shelf-support screws s/a"-diameter (4), clearrubber bumpers self-adhesive (gloss polyurethane finish andsatin). stain,
topsi I frame bottoms ends J frame K endpanels trim L. top/bottom
3/cu
11/z' 19"
3/q'
11/z' 131/z'
3/q'
1 9 " 1 5 " MP
3/tu
3"
201/z'
P
M
3L' 161/z' M 3 M-endtrim revealtrim3/qu 21/z' 20' MY N upper
O backpanel P backsrdetrim
3/q' 26Vz' 15" 3h' 1V4" 15"
Q backtop/bottom caps
3/4u
21/2" 261/z'
MP
M
Buyirrg Gr.ride glass edge, withflat-polished tabletop Glass. %x24x36" 19785 Brokers, Wholesale Glass $66plusshipping. Ml48076; MileRd.,Ste,357,Southfield, WestTwelve 800/288-6854.
mxn**frnnEctffmgitrffitr** 3/ax 71/cx 96" Mahogany
3/qx 51/zx 96" Maple
3/qx 71/qx 96" Maple
3 / qx 3 1 / z x 9 6 " P o p l a r wrrtrv.woodonline. c om
3/qx 48 x 96" Mapleplywood
49
ome toys arefor play,othersfor display.With this snaz4yrubber-band-powered speed-boat, you haveboth.Modeledaftera 1930s hydroplaneracer,this fully-functional boat can whirlacrossa bac(yardpool or sit handsomelyon its stand. Constructedwith scraps of cedar pine,and brass 2x6, straight-grained rod,tube,and sheet,it requiresonlya smallinvestmentin materialsto complete.Happymotoring!
STEP 4 Gluedeckto hull. STEP 1 CulaVa" groove th" deep centere{
on Uottomot tiutt@.
'
F,--.-r'
f5-"_-j*:
Tii,---',*F*
Note: Thebrassrod, tube,andsheetwe used in this project are available at hardware and hobby stores, or see the Buying Guidefor our source.
Forrn the hrill .$
first
Cut a 20"-longpieceof cedar2x6for #* the hull (A). Cut a centeredgroovein the bottom of the hull, where shown in Step 1 on Drawing1. ffi Chuck a V2" straight bit in your #* table-mounted router, and, using a stopblock clamped to the fence to control the groove's length, rout a 3t/c"-long stoppedgroove, shown in Step 2. ffi From a 2O"-long piece of dark, %#straight-grained cedar 2x6, resaw two 3/s"-thickbook-matchedpieces for the deck halves (B). Rip them to the width in the Materials List. Cut a Vsx3/sx20"pine piece for the center strip
(C). Edge-glue the deck halves (B) to both sidesof the center strip (C), shown in Step 3. With the glue dry, plane this deck blank (B/C) to V+"thick. ,ff Ctue the deck to the hull, shown in *ffiStep 4, keeping the ends and edges flush. To spreadthe clamping pressure evenly, lay down waxed paper, and clamp the assembly, deck down, to a piece of 3/q"plywood. Remove any glue that squeezesinto the Vzxs/e"gloove. ffi Scrape any excess glue from the q# sides of the hulVdeck assembly. Sand the stern so the deck and hull are flush. Install a 3/+"dado blade in your tablesaw, and cut the
3"-wide cockpit, shown in Step 5. To avoid chipping the blank's side,back the cuts with an auxiliary extensionattached to your miter gauge. ffi Copy the deck from the WOOD &#paftf'RlUso inserr.Adhere it to the deckftrullblank with sprayadhesive.Tilt your bandsawtable 15o, and cut along the pattern lines, shown in Step 6. Save the cutoffs. Sandthe saw marks from the hull assembly. ff Select a piece of wood with straight S grain, and resaw and plane the planks (D) to the size listed, bookmatching the two sides.Glue and clamp the planks, one piece at a time, to the hull, shown in Step 7. Use the hull
II ronurNc THEHULLANDDECK
51/z'
STEP5 Cut a 3"-widedado 17a"deepthrough hulland deck.
7o+"shankhole, countersunk t/e" slot on back 1t/+" long
#3 x 7a"brass F.H.woodscrews
\ ll
.,,
t))
STEP8 Formthe transom.
) t/a
STEP2 Rout a t/2"groove7a"deep, stopped3gZ"from end.
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IF
ld,
tzt
tFt F/"rtl - /t*i-
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61/z x 11/q 6lzx 1|Vq 6s/s x 113/a 6/a x 11/e 61/z x 121/z 6 1 / zx 1 1 / c
For specifications on other types of tools, click on "Tool Gomparisons" at www.woodmall.com
NOTES: 1. (.) Electric-brakemodel also available. ("-) No-brakemodel also available.
2. (CA) Cast aluminum (SA) Stampedaluminum (C) Composite (SS) Stampedsteel (M) Magnesium
s. !excetlent @oooo ffirait
Measured24" trom saw equippedwith standardblade. (P) ThermoplasticPVC (R) Rubber
6. (R) Rip fence (D) Dust-collectionport (C) Case 7. (LIFE) Lifetimewarrantyagainst factory defects.
WOOD rnagazine
Aprll 2002
building up on the blade and causing friction, a plus if you do much work with lumber. pressure-treated We were surprised to find that the 5007NHK doesn't have a depth-of-cut scale.Although we didn't think we'd use thesescalesmuch, we quickly came to rely on them, and we missedthe convenienceon this saw. The 5007NHK also comesin a left-bladedversion.
saw trackednice and straight with virtually no effort on our part. The 6390-21 also comesin a blade-on-leftconfiguration. The model we testeddoesn'thave an electric blade brake, but a sister model(6394-21,$190)does. The unique Tilt-Lok handle can be locked in any of eight positions to keep your hand at approximately the same angle for any cutting depth. As much as the tilting ability, though, we like the comfortable soft-grip material found on both the front and rearhandles.Although the 6390-21has no bevel stops,its scale is marked in 1o increments like the DeWalt.And it's theonly scalein the test that's markedon the back, so it can be read from the normal operatingposition.
Milwaukee6390-21 8771279-7819 www.mil-electric-tool.com From its excellentpower, to its heavyduty lockinglevers,to its middling$155 price tag, we liked almost everything about the 6390-21.Like the Hitachi, this
Porter-Cable 347K ACCESSORIES (6)
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800/487-8665 www.porter-cable.com Perhapsthe most notablefeatureof the 347K is the dust-collectiontube, which acceptsa standard 1/+" vacuum hose, sproutingfrom the top front of the upper blade guard.Where a vac isn't convenient, the tube directs debris anywhere you want, which we found handy when working outdoorson breezydays. The 347K is also the only saw in the stopat 0o bevel,as testwith a bypassable well as the typical 45' stop. With the bevel stoprotatedout of the way, you can back-bevelasmuch as-3o,or bevelup to 48'. Although similar in function to the stopon the Makita, it's lessintuitive and requires2t/z tums of the locking thumbscrewto rotateit in or out of position. All of the tested saws have spindle locks for changing blades, but the 347K's is in a tight spot between the front handle and the upper blade guard, making it more difficult to accessthan the others. However, we'll give P-C credit for including onboard storagefor the bladewrench.
1EE
80
N/A
6391-21l$155
N/A
8. (U) UnitedStates (C) China (S) Singapore 9. All saws weighedwith identicalbladesinstalled.
Ryobi CSB130K 8001525-2579 www.ryobitools.com The CSB130Kis everythingyou expect in an $80 circular saw, and a little bit more. As we mentionedbefore,we like its depth-of-cutscale and cutline-viewing window. However,in our 5'-rip test, this saw took nearly twice as long to make the cut as the top performersin our test (which, not coincidentally, cost nearlytwice as much). This tool sharessome features of the more expensivesawsin the test,suchas a dust port (with an odd 1%" diameter), a blade guard that retractsslightly at 45" bevel, and onboard wrench storage. Unfortunately,the CSB130Kalsoshares some of their foibles. such as noise (Bosch), smooth handles(Hitachi), and the absenceof bevel stops(Milwaukee).
A rorrnd of applause for the top circ san ts Milwaukee's 6390-21 offers almost everything we're looking for in a circ saw: lots of power, straight-as-an-alrow tracking,and a boatloadof performanceenhancingfeaturesat a reasonableprice. DeWalt's DW369 trades a little power for bevel stops at 22.5o and 45o, and doesit for about$20 less. If you don't think you'll use a circular saw often enoughto justify the cost of the DeWalt or Milwaukee, the Craftsman27108will fill the bill nicely for you. For occasionaluse,we canoverlook the thumbscrewlocks.i Writtenby Dave Gampbellwith Kirk Hesse Photographs:Baldwin Photography
Visit wur,',w.woodonline. cofir to talk about circular saws with other woodworkers.
10. Pricescurrentat time of article'sproduction.
www.woodonline.corn
89
the vyoodrruorkers
whobuilt Hy
Look beyond the Statue of Liberty's metal exterior and you'll find the handiwork of skilled woodworkers. t was a grand day that Fourth of July in 1884 when the Statueof Liberty was presented to the United Statesin a ceremonyheld at the Gaget, Gauthieret Companiefoundry outside Paris. There, for eight years underthe directionof sculptorFr6d6ricAuguste Bartholdi, nearly 200,000 pounds of copper had been meticulously formedinto the panelsthat a, would becomeLady Liberty. Though all the attentionmay I have gone to the shiny metalwork-then as brieht as a new
penny-it was the scores of French woodworkers and carpenters behind the scenesthat made it all possible. On these shores, it took American woodworking know-how before the statue could take its place of honor in New York Harbor.
A statrre like no other Because the statue is constructed almost entirely of copper and steel, it may be
difficult to seewhy woodworkingskills were critical in its construction.To understandwhy, it's helpful to know a bit about the properties of that most malleablemetal-copper. Copperwas the ideal materialfor the Statueof Liberty. It can be shapedand bent without breaking, making fine contours possible.Pure copper won't rust,andactuallygainsprotectionasthe surfaceoxidizes,forming the greenish patinathat shieldsthe metalunderneath, providing built-in protection against salt air and dampness. Through an ancient metal-forming techniqueknown as repouss6,raw copper sheets were carefully hammered againstintricatewooden forms (possibly built from pine or ash) until the copperwasjust 2.5 millimetersthickabout 7r:". See the photo below, The resulting thin contoured copper plates-some 310 of them-formed the jigsaw puzzle that three-dimensional would becomethe statue.
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Some 310 huge sheets of copper were hammered into shape against intricate wooden molds to shape the skin of the Statue of Liberty.
WOOD magazine
April
2002
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Before the final wooden molds could be constructed, it was necessary to make actual-sizereplicas of the statue's components out of wood lath and plaster.
statues Three sepaaiate To createthe molds, woodworkersfirst built three progressively larger woodlath-and-plasterenlargementsof Lady Liberty. The first stoodjust over 9' tall. The second version-about 36' tallwas sectionedoff, and eachsectionwas measuredsome 9,000 times in order to enlargeit yet again.Theseenlargedsections,shownabove,were assembledinto a l5 1' colossus that was used to createthe final statue. begins The real work More than 300 full-size wooden forms were modeledfrom the contouredplaster sections of the final enlargement.On theseforms, workers shapedthe copper plates that make up the statue's skin. This was delicatework, partly because of the intricate contoursof the sculpture and the thinnessof the copperskin, and because the wooden molds weren't solid. As shown in the photo at right, many curved sections of the wooden molds were an open matrix, which required extreme care with the wooden mallets and implementsused to shape the copper. For the most detailed sections,the coppersheetshad to be heated to give them maximumflexibility before they were formed. Eventuallyit cametime to put the elaborate planning and construction techniquesto their ultimatetest-a complete assembly in Paris before disassembly and shipmentto America. Again, wood was key to the ultimatesuccess. To assemblethe statue,workers built an elaborate wooden scaffoldine that
www.woodonline.corn
gavethem safeaccessto the exterior skin while, inside, other workers (who were able to enter through an access in Liberty's right foot) assisted. Working from outside and within, workers affixed the outer skin panelsto a 96' iron pylon inside the structure.The pylon was designed by AlexandreGustave Eiffel, who had yet to begin work on the tower that bears his name. Sproutingout on all sidesfrom the pylon is a network of flat metalbars.Bolted to the pylon at the center, this armatureis affixed to the copper skin with some 2,000 steel bracketscalled saddlesthat provide elasticity in the face of winds and changesin temperature.
for Liberty A forrndation The French had pronouncedthe statue completedon IndependenceDay 1884, but it took more than two years before she could stand in New York Harbor. First, American workers had to build a fitting pedestal atop the pyramidshaped concrete foundation that had just been completed. That foundation weighedan incredible23,500tons and rose more than 52 feet above the ground. At the time, it was believed to be the largestmassof solid concrete in the world. The pedestal, designed by architect Richard Morris Hunt. was crafted from concreteand granite, and standsanother 89' tall. It incorporatesa balconyand 40 escutcheonsbearingthe coatsof arms of each statethen in the Union. In May of 1886,the statueat lastbegan to take shapeover the new edifice. On October 28, 1886, more than a million people turned out for the dedication ceremony to unveil this new symbol of freedomand democracyto the world. 'l Written by Dave Kirchner Photographs:Courtesyof National Park Service: Statue of Liberty National Monument :?},,i li.'t :;.F"!l.$,:i;1. lJt :r;i..rs. Write:
-r!..rr,.:,.,.i!'t,,.' :. i i5 ;; ; ::',,,',
The Superintendent, The Statue of
Liberty National Monument, Liberty lsland, New York, NY 10004. You will receive information about the Statue of Liberty and Ellis lsland.
The workshops at the Gaget, Gauthier et Companie foundry were filled with activity, and with hundreds of wooden forms, such as this one, used to shape the copper.
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Senrecheese and crackers on this terrific turned tray.
maple cheeseboardgracesthe centerof this domed mahogany tray,makingan idealservicefor all kinds of snacks.A knifewith a turnedbird's-eyemaplehandlecompletesthe set. Note: See our Buvittg Guicle .\our('c.\on page L)5for the g/rr.r.idorrte, kttile blude, .f itti.sltt'.s, utttl rrrultogurt.t'untl ltirtl',s-eyentuple tuntittg bltnks. Cltack tlte .spet.iulkit prit'ittg.for WOODo rcutler.s. .,
Prepare the blank. Cut a Ax6t/s6t/t" bird's-eye ntapleblank fbr the cheeseboard.Draw diagonal lines to locatethe center on the sicleof the blank that will be tlie bottonr.Draw I %" and 3r,/s"-radiLrs circles arrcllrnd the center.BanclsawiLrst outsicletlie larse circle.
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WOOD rnagazine
Al.rr.rl.1f l-,2
Attach an auxiliary
True the blank.
faceplate.
Use your 3" faceplateto tracea circleonto a pieceof I %"-thickscrap,and bandsawto the line. The disc doesn'tneedto be perfect,but get it as closeas you can. Apply cloth-backeddouble-facedtapeor hotmeltglue to this auxiliaryfaceplate,and fastenit, centeredrnthe lt/z"blank.If you usedoubleradiuscircle,to the cheeseboard facedtape,squeezethe two partstogetherwith a clamp, or in your benchvise.
Turn the cheeseboard. Screwyour 3" faceplate
to theauxiliaryfaceplate. , cheeseboard
3" faceptatel | -1 \ ffi| "i""."_ ii;;g
blankon your lathe.Use a
-+ ff
--+ -{- Round
L+l
I | ,n"f;Xii
and mount the
totrue_the bowlgouge
iffi
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11 I
blank
Mount the tray blank on your lathe.Use a bowl gougeto true the blank'sedgeandturn it to a 12"di ameter. Repositioning the tool rest parallelto the blank'sface,turn it
faceplate $ .lrueIne l J d i s c ,a n d
slip over the boardeasily lf tr. it to finished withoutbeingtoo loose. $, diameter' Form a %" round-overon n to 320 grit. the front edge.Sandthe cheeseboard G reSeparatethecheeseboardfromtheauxiliaryfaceplate,and set it aside. ffi
W'l"T;Iil',Xiffifi.''center EF
SPEEI):600-800rpm.
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htr*Wffmt* th* tr*y Create a pair of ternplates. Make a copy of the tray full-sizehalf pattemsfrom the WOOD PATTERNSoinsert at the centerof the magazine. Use sprayadhesiveto adherethem to %" hardboard.Cut and sandthe front and back templatesto the patternlines.
fr
2"
face oTrue with one cut. continuous
almost to finished thickness.Then true the face with one continuous cut from rim to center. T00[: %" bowlgouge. belowcenter. T00[ REST:Slightly SPEED: 600-800rom.
Turnto finished thickness. @ Truethe disc,and turn it to finished diameter.
Make the gauging cuts. With the lathe at
dome. The dome should
Tray blank
slow speed,and referring to your tray front and back templates, mark the 3" radiusfor recess the cheeseboard and the 37s"radiusfor the bottomof the rim bevelon the blank's face.Measuringfrom the blank's edgeand front face, mark the platter's-78" edgebead. Again measuringfrom the edge,mark the end
3/s'
@ Uart
