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A feast for the senses

The gift of effervescence

page 

page 

An elegant lifestyle

A diversity of sensations

page 

page 

Three centuries of genius

The wines of Champagne From lifestyle to wine styles.

Blending crus and years

page 

page 

The Champagne Appellation

Gardeners of the vine page 

page 

Wines with a name

A very special terroir

page 

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The wines of Champagne From lifestyle to wine styles.

Whether you are seduced by the bubbles that dance in your glass or fascinated by the reputation of these legendary wines, we invite you to discover what makes the wines of Champagne so unique. Everything is different about them: from their origins to the traditions that have made them symbols of lifestyle; from the winemakers responsible for them to the rules that they obey; from the delicacy of the bubbles

Credits: Page  Éric Cuvillier-Jacques de Marcillac. Page  CIVC. Éric Cuvillier-Jacques de Marcillac. Page  Antoine Rozès/Cristofle. Page  Dessin L. Marchetti/Sygma. Jean Cocteau-CIVC. Keystone. Page  Pix/VCL. Page  CIVC/John Hodder. Visuel impact. Option photo Erick Sampers. Page  CIVC/Jolyot. Page  CIVC/John Hodder. CIVC. Page  Gérard Rondeau. Page  CIVC. CIVC/Yvon Monet. CIVC/Paireault. Page  Jacques de Marcillac. Page  Christine Fleurent, Manfred Seelow, agence Top. Jonathan Pollock/Steven Wheeler. Page  Éric Cuvillier-Jacques de Marcillac. Extrait de «Les mots pour les dire» ®Vocabulaire des Champagnes. Page  CIVC/John Hodder. Page  Gérard Rondeau. Page  CIVC/John Hodder. Michel Jolyot. Page  CIVC/John Hodder. Page  CIVC/F. Hadengue. CIVC. Page  CIVC/John Hodder.

to the art of blending the wines; from their diversity of styles to the unique geographical attributes of a region of France where the vineyards are cultivated as if they were gardens. Step further into the world of Champagne by enjoying the wines, as well as discovering where they are made. The more you know about them, the more you will appreciate their uniqueness.

Artistic director: atelier Fabrizi Writers: Vu d’ici et Benoît de La Brosse. Cover photograph: Jacques de Marcillac. Map page : Éditions Benoît France. Printed in Belgium, in january  by Graphing Grafossart. Coated paper made from recycled fiber and TCF pulp. Numéro hors-série des carnets des Champagnes. ISSN n° - Editor: André Enders.

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A feast for the senses Clad in a dark bottle, Champagne makes its dramatic appearance. Well-chilled,

Ageing Champagne wines have already reached maturity in the cellars under the careful scrutiny of the producers. Yet Champagnes can be stored for several years in your own home, provided that they are stored in a cool, dark, place.

Chilling Champagne wines should be enjoyed chilled, but not too cold. A Champagne bottle usually reaches its ideal temperature of 45-50 ° F (7-10 ° C) after twenty minutes in a bucket filled with ice and water or after three hours in the refrigerator. Do not chill Champagne in the freezer.

the bottle attracts and creates joyful anticipation. The soft pop of the cork and the murmur of the bubbles catch the ear’s attention. The delicate movements of the bubbles combined with the golden, rosy or crystal hue of the wine captivate the eye. But pay attention to every aspect of the wine you are going to taste: stop for a few seconds. Inhale the aromas before taking a sip. Then explore all the nuances on your palate. Champagne is more than just a wine: it is a feast for all the senses. Packaging

Opening Cut the foil and undo the wire cage known as the muselet. Grasp the cork in one hand and turn the bottle with the other, holding it at the bottom. The cork will then easily come off by itself.

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With its round shoulders, long and shiny neck capped by a rounded cork and a wire cage, and with its elegant label, a bottle of Champagne has a distinctive air all of its own. The bottle is strong enough to allow the bubbles to form without the risk of exploding. Its colour is dark to protect the wine from the light.

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An elegant lifestyle For over three centuries, Champagne wines have been an integral part of the art of fine living in France and around the world. They Service In the 18th century Champagne – which in those days was sweet, like today’s Demi-Secs – used to accompany desserts. But it was already the only wine not to be served exclusively at the dinner table. In the 19th century, Champagne began to be enjoyed at the start of dinner. This led to the creation of Brut Champagnes which were less sweet and could be sipped throughout the fashionable suppers of the time. The wines then found their place in the world of gastronomy and in leading restaurants. Today, Champagne wines are consumed as an aperitif, during the course of the meal, or indeed at any moment of the day or night.

brought elegance to the revelries of the 18th century, enhanced the romanticism of the 19th century and spurred the fantasies of the Belle Epoque. Today they continue to be the indispensable companion to intense, glorious, or quiet moments. In short, they are a unique and authentic symbol for any form of celebration. Celebration From the days when the Kings of France were crowned at Reims, Champagne has been the wine of kings, of the nobility – and of the entire world. Favoured by the world of arts and letters, the wines of Champagne also celebrate sporting triumphs, the signing of contracts or opening ceremonies.

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Three centuries of genius Discovering The Champenois love to share their history and their traditions. They will happily recount stories about their region’s past, explain how they make their wines and exhibit articles and tools handed down through the generations that they preserve and cherish. Visitors are always warmly welcomed whether at a Champagne House for an impressive visit or at the home of a Grower and his family for a more intimate one.

In the beginning, the wines of Champagne were ‘clear, light, crisp and shimmering’,

the very qualities that led to their success. Since then the Champenois have shown a real genius for perfecting these distinctive characteristics. First, at the end of the 17th century, the local winemakers decided to produce white wines by pressing the grapes slowly, using not only white grapes but also black ones to obtain wines of a rare brightness. They then discovered that they could achieve the harmony they were seeking by combining different wines, all produced from the grapes grown in the Champagne region. Finally, mastering the mysteries of effervescence was the Champenois’ third stroke of genius. Towards perfection In the course of the 20th century came the selection of grape varieties and the yeasts suitable for fermentation. Pruning and grafting techniques were improved and active measures were taken to protect the vineyards against pests of every description. The quality of pressing and wine-

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making has been guaranteed by the establishment of 2,000 press houses throughout the region’s vineyards.

Stained-glass window honouring Champagne in the Cathedral of Reims.

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In 1927 the vineyards of Champagne were legally defined, according to the wine producing history of individual villages. Since 1927, only three grape varieties have been allowed in the produc-

tion of Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. In addition quality regulations have been enacted to limit the yields in the vineyards and in the press houses. Standards have been laid down for the pruning, the height, the spacing and the density of the vines, to ensure harvesting by hand. More recently measures have been taken to lengthen the minimum ageing time to fifteen months for Non-Vintage Champagnes and to three years for Vintage wines.

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The word ‘Champagne’ is so full of meaning, so desirable that it has always provoked envious feelings. One of the missions of the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne – the trade association representing all the Champagne Houses and Growers – is to defend and protect the exclusive nature of the appellation, whatever the commercial sector involved.

enhance the value of their extraordinary inheritance, to make it better-known worldwide and to ensure that it is respected. Today strict regulations are in force to ensure that the Appellation ‘Champagne’ applies only to the wines produced according to long-established traditions in the Champagne region of France. This is the ‘Appellation of Controlled Origin’ or AOC.

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Wines with a name The labels on bottles of Champagne carry the names of their producers. The systema-

The cellar master Whether he is the head of a House or a Grower, the cellar master is the architect of the wines of Champagne. He is responsible for the choice of the grapes, the making and blending of the wines and their ageing. His mission is to maintain the style and spirit of his House, working in collaboration with the older generation – which possesses the depth of experience required – and with the younger one, which needs to be initiated into the House’s secrets. The cellar master is also responsible for the workers in the cellars who riddle, disgorge and label the bottles.

tic use of their own names is a public affirmation that each wine is unique. The style, personality and tradition of each Champagne is easily recognisable and the leading brands have ensured that their names are famous world-wide. Who make Champagne? The making of Champagne is the story of the efforts of men and women over several centuries. The Champagne Houses were the first to produce their own wines using grapes either from their own vineyards or bought from local Growers to produce their own Champagnes. They can also sell their grapes to a Champagne House or to a growers’association.

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The gift of effervescence Champagne would not be Champagne without the magical presence of the bubbles. This sparkle is born Glasses and flutes Always served chilled, Champagne was first enjoyed from stemmed, cone-shaped glasses. During the 19th century the shallow coupe became fashionable, but true wine lovers still preferred the ‘flute’. Today the favourite glass from which to sip Champagne is tulip-shaped. The bubbles can dance around freely and there is enough room for the aromas to express themselves. It is best for the Champagne if the glasses used are simply rinsed (without using soap) in warm water and left upside down to dry.

of the long marriage of the yeasts and the wines in cool chalky cellars. Indefatigable dancers, the bubbles rise to the surface to form a pearl necklace and release the fruity and floral flavours from the wine. The birth of the bubbles In the old days the natural fermentation that had begun in the autumn, transforming the grape juice into wine, would slow down with the onset of the first frosts of winter. The wines would retain a proportion of their sugar which would trigger a new fermentation with the return of milder weather

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in the spring. Effervescence would appear in the course of this second fermentation. To master the process the Champenois decided to use tightly sealed bottles instead of the usual wooden casks. The Champenois’ stroke of genius was to control throughout the centuries this natural phenomenon to achieve extremely fine bubbles and long lasting aromas.

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Body

Spirit

Soul

Heart

A diversity of sensations When one takes the time, all the nuances of the diversity of the wines of Champagne reveal themselves. The eye Champagnes with food With their powerful character, Champagnes wih Body provide an excellent match for foie gras, Parma ham, stews, ossobuco or poultry. Champagnes with Spirit are a perfect aperitif. They also have a special affinity with fish and shellfish and excel with sorbets or frozen desserts. Champagnes with Heart are a perfect accompaniment to lamb, sweet-and-sour dishes, gratins, warm desserts and red fruits… Or try them at tea-time ! Champagnes with Soul are so exceptional that they deserve to be savoured by themselves.

can distinguish the crystal paleness of a young and crisp Champagne from the deep antique gold colour of a mature wine. The nose can perceive woody or citrussy aromas and recognise hints of violets or fresh almonds. Finally, the palate experiences the coolness, the tingle of effervescence and an aromatic persistence which varies from wine to wine. Champagne’s four families Four different families can be identified : • Champagnes with Body, sensual, powerful, structured and intense, with woody, spicy and red fruit overtones. • Champagnes with Spirit, vivacious, light and delicate with grassy and citrussy aromas. • Champagnes with Heart, generous, heart-warming and smooth, offering aromas of brioche, cinnamon and honey.

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They can include Rosé and Demi-Sec Champagnes. • Champagnes with Soul, mature, complex and rich with hints of rare and subtle spices. Among these wines are Special Cuvées and cherished Vintage Champagnes.

Champagne B. anglais

A diversity of wines Every Champagne House or Grower offers a range of different wines which reflect their respective spirit and style. Brut NV (Non-Vintage) is the wine most representative of a producer’s style. It is usually a blend of wines from several years and a number of ‘crus’. Vintage Champagnes are produced exclusively from the wines of a single harvest. As a result, producers will only declare a vintage in exceptional years. Vintage Champagnes are thus wines with a great deal of character. Rosé Champagnes are original because of their colour and their vinous character. They are produced by macerating the black grapes or by adding locallyproduced red wine to the blend. Special Cuvées, whether vintage-dated or not, are made from the most subtle and distinctive wines. Demi-Sec Champagnes differ from Bruts in their slightly sweeter taste.

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Blending crus and years The practice of blending wines from different grape varieties, different years – wines from previous years

are called reserve wines –, different crus or vineyards was developed in Champagne at the end of the 17th century. In repeated tastings, winemakers strive to create from these different elements a harmony characteristic of the House style unique to every Champagne producer. This method, particular to the Champenois, relies as much on sensorial memory as on experience. The grape varieties Only three grape varieties are allowed in the production of Champagne. • Pinot Noir, a black grape variety with white juice grown mainly on the slopes of the Mountain of Reims and in the Côte des Bar. It gives Champagnes their aromas of red fruits, as well as their strength and body. • Pinot Meunier, another black grape variety with white juice. It is grown mainly in the Valley of the Marne and is characterised

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by its suppleness and spiciness. It gives Champagnes their roundness and fragrance. • Chardonnay, a white grape variety mostly planted in the Côte des Blancs. It provides the wines with their finesse as well as their floral and, sometimes, mineral overtones.

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Gardeners of the vine Traditional festivals There are two important celebrations of the vine in Champagne : La Saint Vincent honours the patron saint of growers on 22nd January. Dressed in traditional clothes and carrying colourful staves bearing a statue of Saint Vincent, the growers walk in procession to a solemn mass. Afterwards, they will discuss the merits of the past harvest at a traditional banquet. Le ‘ Cochelet ’ celebrates the last day of the harvest. Growers and grapes pickers gather for a feast of potée champenoise, a traditional local dish of meat, cabbage and other vegetables.

In Champagne, the vines climb up slopes crowned by woods. Divided into numerous parcels,

the vineyards are like gardens cultivated by the growers. Each parcel is tended with the greatest care to preserve the individual characteristics of the wine made from its grapes. The work is meticulous, precise, but also arduous in so northern a vineyard as that of Champagne. The cycle of the vine From the winter until August, successive tasks include pruning, ploughing, polling, debudding and finally trimming. Much of this is done by hand. In June, hail and late frosts which can damage the buds or the flowers of the vine are feared. In the autumn, the clusters of grapes are harvested by hand. Only the best bunches are picked and carefully transported whole to the press houses where

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the precious must is extracted. The weather decides the dates of the harvest, which varies according to the regions and the grape varieties. Typically, the harvest takes place a hundred days after the flowering of the vine.

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A very special terroir The distinctive natural components of the terroir of Champagne –a unique combination Exploring the region The natural beauty of the vineyards, the mosaic of the vines, as well as towns rich in history : Reims, the city where the Kings of France were crowned, Epernay at the heart of the vineyards, medieval Troyes, Château-Thierry, birthplace of Jean de la Fontaine, Châlons-enChampagne and its gardens. Also not to be missed are the Gothic cathedrals, Romanesque churches, country houses and aristocratic manors.

of soil, sub-soil, climate and grape varieties– are the underlying factors which account for the uniqueness of the wines of the region. The harshness of the northern climate is fortunately tempered by two particularities: a deep chalk sub-soil that allows easy drainage, and the way the vines are planted on slopes where they can receive the most sunlight. Under these conditions, the vineyards can yield their best grapes. The main regions of Champagne The three main elements –climate, soil and sub-soil– vary within the appellation Champagne. However four main regions can be distinguished: • The Mountain of Reims where the vineyards snake along the slopes between the plateau and the valleys of the Ardre and the Vesle throughout a National Regional Park. • The valley of the Marne where the slopes flank the river on both sides, following its curves as its meanders from Aÿ to beyond Château-Thierry.

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• The Côte des Blancs where the vineyards follow the slopes that run from Epernay in the north down to the slopes around the town of Sézanne. • The Côte des Bar and Montgueux as the southern tip of the region. There, the vineyards run up the gentle slopes of rounded hills between the rivers Seine and Aube. The countryside is lovely and peaceful.