Sharpening drills.pdf

After all, the drill is round so it makes sense to roll the shape ... Dip the drill into water frequently between ... it boils the water rapidly, you are too late. Not only ...
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SHARPENING DRILLS By Larry Corbin (EAA 34458, Designee 1525)

Corner ""

Edited by Chuck Larsen, EAA Designee

Director

Figure 1 shows a standard drill point. Notice that the included angle of the cutting lips is 118 degrees and the end clearance angle is 3 degrees. If properly ground, the angle on the peak of the web is 45 degrees and is centered. This makes a nice visual check. Figure 2 shows two of the most common mistakes made in sharpening drills. "A" illustrates what happens if the drill is fed straight into the grinding wheel. A concave surface results which is weak. "B" illustrates a negative end clearance angle which means the drill will rub instead of cut. Figure 3 illustrates a simple homemade gage. It is made from sheet metal. The chisel marks are not critical since they only serve as references to assure that both cutting lips are uniform in length. Figure 4 shows the correct way to grind a drill. Three motions are required to get the right shape. The drill must, of course, be fed into the wheel, but with only a light pressure. It must also be rotated and lifted at the same time. After all, the drill is round so it makes sense to roll the shape onto the end. This takes practice. It is much like learning to fly. Most people overcontrol the elevators, undercontrol the ailerons and completely forget the rudder. Similarly, most people feed the drill too hard, lift it too little and completely forget to rotate it. Perhaps the most important part of drill sharpening is to avoid overheating. Dip the drill into water frequently

between light grinding passes. If the drill turns blue or if it boils the water rapidly, you are too late. Not only can the drill lose its hardness, small microscopic cracks will form and the cutting edge can self destruct as soon as you begin to use it.

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Our realization of flight requires much of a technical nature and the application of numerous shop skills to uphold our standards of quality. The following article explains how Larry sharpens drill bits to meet the hole drilling requirements we all encounter in our shops.

Figure 5 illustrates a special point for drilling wood. Wood will splinter very badly when drilled with a standard point. Changing the included angle of the cutting lips to 60 degrees will help considerably. However, it is still best to back up the workpiece with a piece of scrap wood. It should be noted that this drill point will dull rapidly and "lead off' if used on steel. Figure 6 shows a point that will make a very smooth, round and almost burr free hole in sheet metal. The center point is higher than the cutting lips and so will center the drill in a center punch mark. The outer part of the cutting lips then act as little fly cutters. The center point must be accurately located in order for the hole to be on size. If a slightly oversize hole is desired, the center point can be ground off center and the cutting lip on the short side can be ground back so it does not cut. The amount of offset is somewhat limited due to the wobbling that will result. Figure 7 shows a drill point on which the rake angle has been reduced. The major use for this type of point is in drilling soft materials such as nylon or brass. In these materials, the standard drill tends to dig in and grab the workpiece. Grinding a small flat on the leading edge of the cutting lips will eliminate the problem. This drill point is also used on extremely hard materials or where hard spots exist in a piece. Figure 8 shows a drill with a "thinned point". Most of the force required to push a drill into the workpiece is needed to push the blunt part of the point. Since the web gets thicker as the drill gets shorter, the blunt part gets wider and the required force becomes higher. This in turn can lead to drill breakage or increase the tendency to "lead off'. interest to all pilots. Contact Neil Hymk, Minn. DOT, 612/296-1141; Tim

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SPORT AVIATION 29