Sector Miltiadis, Telendos, Kalymnos 1 Rita Restaurant. . . . . . . 3fΩ 6a
12pts. Rita is the name of a restaurant in Telendos harbour. The owner, Giannis Zoïdis, helped us to reach the cliff by boat every day without walking! FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Oct 2009
w Miltos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ω 5a
11pts. Miltos is the name of the son of Iannis Zoïdis , start 10 metres below the ledge of Ritaxiboat
2 Sficonis . . . . . . . . . . . . 3rΩ 5c+
This final two routes on the cliff (for now) start at a lower level; about 20 metres below the start of the other routes!
FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Oct 2009
e Epetios Tou Ókhi . . . . . . . . . 3Ω 5c
12pts. The name is the Greek word for wasps, in memory of an attack during the equipping of this route!
3 Catsika. . . . . . . . . . . . . 3sΩ 5c
11pts Epétios tou Ókhi, (the day of no !), October 28, it is the national celebration day in Greece, the same day I finish this route!
15pts. The name is the Greek word for goat, in memory of one we found dead in a cave at the base of the cliff.
FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Oct 2011
FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Oct 2009
r Papy Rebel. . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ω 5c
4 Emmanuele. . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ω 6a+
11 pts. Papy Rebel is Bruno’s nickname on a French climbing website! FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Oct 2011
14pts. The owner of the Tsopanakos Restaurant, and of all the goats on Telendos Island. FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Nov 2009
Renée Guerin on the 1st ascent of Telendos Star Photo: Sherri Davy
5 Diana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3sΩ 6b
14pts. The wife of Babis Psarommatis, the owner of the Agelica Babis Bar in Myrties wher we have always stayed. FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Nov 2009
6 Creation 2010. . . . . . . . 3tΩ 7a
17pts. The route is just to the right of Diana. The crux is at mid high, where a steep wall with a red low-profile tufa has to be climbed. FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Oct 2010
7 Et Voila . . . . . . . . . 2tfΩ 7a+
11pts. The crux is the lower wall, after the 6th bolt things ease. FA. Mathieu Moulin, Nicolas Szawowski 2009
8
Papous kai yiayia. . . . .
2fΩ 6c
13pts. The steep wall on the right of Et Voilà, between two black streaks. The lower-off is the same as for Sebasti. Papous kai yiayia - that is Grandfather and Grandmother… just like the First Ascentionists! FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin April 2011
9 Sebasti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ω 6a
13pts. Start is on the ledge below the right-hand cave. Sebasti is the name of the boat of Zoïdis and also that of his daughter. Sebasti is our taxi-boat for approaching the cliff. FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin April 2011
0 Telendos Star . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ω 5a
12pts. Telendos Star is the name of the new boat owned by Giannis Galousis, after the sinking of the Regina. FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin April 2011
q Ritaxi Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Ω 4c
11pts. Named in gratitude to Iannis Zoidis, the owner of Rita’s Restaurant, every morning he takes us to the cliff with his boat. FA. Bruno Fara, Renée Guerin Oct 2011
36m
30m
WZSOL 40 min
25m
12
3 45
6
7
8
9 0q
Sector Mitiadis
This Sector was discoveerd by Bruno Fara and Renée Guierin in 2009 and their first five routes made it into the new 2010 edition on the Kalymnos guide. Since then they have more than doubled the number of climbs here. Approach - the crag is a 40 mins walk from the Telendos harbour or a 10 minutes scramble from Irox. The cliff goes into the shade at about 1:30. A 70m rope and 15 quick-draws are required.
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All text: copywrite Bruno Fara Design work: copywrite Chris Craggs
