Résumé de l'expédition Une expédition de cafistes du Gums Paris a été explorer à skis les Alpes de Stauning sur la côte Est du Groenland ce printemps. Composée de Michèle Chevalier, Guillaume Blanc, Michal Bulik, Florent Mellac et Antoine Melchior (chef d'expé). Malheureusement, cette année le début de printemps a été très froid obligeant Guillaume à rentrer au bout d'une semaine. Nous avons continué à 4 , privé de notre meilleur traceur. Pas vraiment de jeunes dans cette équipe, la moyenne d'age de l'expédition est remontée de 49 à 52 ans après le départ de Guillaume. Déposés le 11 avril dans l'Alpefjord au Nord-ouest du massif, nous avons rejoint le Nordvest fjord au sud du massif le 7 mai après avoir traversé les Alpes de Stauning. Puis il nous a fallu encore huit jours pour rejoindre l'aéroport de Constable Point sur le bord du fjord Hurry ( deux jours pour rejoindre la terre de Jameson et six jours pour la traverser). Soit près de 400km à skis et 34 jours en autonomie. La première partie de notre raid a été bien alpine. Les Alpes de Stauning méritent bien leur nom. Nous avons progressé encordés ou non au milieu de glaciers, crevasses, séracs, passant au pied de piliers de granite ou de Gneiss comme dans les Alpes, mais en beaucoup plus grand. L'encordement à 30m était presque trop court sur certains ponts de neige. Il n'y a pas d'itinéraire facile pour progresser avec des pulkas. Tous les cols présentent des pentes raides, soit à la montée, soit à la descente, soit des deux côtés obligeant à des portages ou « moulinages » de pulkas. Le massif reçoit de nombreuses chutes de neige, mais est très peu venté. Celles ayant eu lieu avant et pendant notre traversée ont donné une couche épaisse, voire très épaisse de neige. De la poudreuse ne se transformant pratiquement pas à cause du froid, ou bien une neige inconsistante et vraiment pénible à tracer. Beaucoup de plaques friables partent naturellement dans les pentes raides. Heureusement pour nous, la progression se fait en bonne partie sur des glaciers larges bordés de grandes parois rocheuses, des vallées en U caractéristiques des terrains glaciaires. Ces parois purgent régulièrement et ne sont pas trop menaçantes, mais certains passages de cols nous ont quand même inquiétés. Des possibilités de sommets, couloirs, escalades variées existent mais nous n'avons pas eu le temps de vraiment explorer. Donc un terrain assez technique, très montagne mais avec surtout cette ambiance grandiose du grand nord : la pureté de l'air faisant paraître toute proche la paroi se trouvant à une dizaine de kilomètres, le soleil rasant, les ombres allongées, les lumières du soir d'un soleil qui n'en finit pas de se coucher . Changement de décors à la sortie au Sud du massif sur le NordVest fjord. Fini la trace pénible dans la poudreuse. D'immenses icebergs sont figés dans la banquise du fjord percée ça et là de trous de phoques. D'ailleurs, ceux -ci se prélassent au soleil mais plongent rapidement à notre approche. Dans les basses vallées, c'est le printemps en ce début de mois de Mai, début du dégel pour les rivières, végétation commençant à réapparaître par petites touches attirant lièvres et lagopèdes venus brouter les feuilles d'airelles et renards venus taquiner le lagopède. Plus impressionnants mais bien paisibles, de nombreux boeufs musqués errent en hardes avec les petits ou bien plus isolés pour les jeunes adultes. Nous en avons vu des centaines sur la terre de Jameson. Cette péninsule, constituée d'un plateau gréseux, est entaillée de canyons peu profonds. La neige y est rare et s'accumule dans ces canyons formant de magnifiques corniches. La terre de Jameson est probablement très souvent balayée par les vents et nous avons été chanceux de n'en avoir que très peu. En revanche nous avons eu beaucoup de brouillard et avons souvent progressé à la boussole. Deux grosses surprises nous attendaient à l'arrivée dans la vallée au nord de Constable. La première et la bonne, l'arrivée des bernaches nonnettes par centaines et l'autre moins agréable, la fonte des neiges dans cette dernière vallée et dans le fjord Hurry pour les deux dernières étapes ce qui nous a

permis de tester l'étanchéïté et la flottabilité des pulkas mais de finir les pieds mouillés. Bilan : Un nouvel itinéraire pour la traversée des Alpes de Stauning enchainé avec un retour au travers de la terre de Jameson par un itinéraire indiqué sur la carte mais sans aucun repère ou balisage sur le terrain (GPS utile). Pour la traversée des Alpes de Stauning : 174km et 8300m de dénivelé positif avec pulkas et 67km et 2300m de dénivelé positif pour les ascensions de cols ou sommets en aller-retour, 21 étapes et 26 jours. 10 traversées de cols (premières traversées répertoriées pour 2 d'entre eux) dans les Alpes de Stauning. Retour à Constable Point : 171km, 8 jours. Total pour la traversée de l' Alpefjord à Constable Point : 345km en 29 étapes et 34 jours en autonomie. Il existe quelques récits d'expédition décrivant certains cols, mais la plupart datent un peu et les glaciers ont baissé. Les courtes pentes raides se sont allongées et dans certaines pentes neigeuses apparaissent maintenant des rochers. references 1. Stauning Alps, Expedition Guide, Donald J. Bennet, The Expedition Library, 1972, et cartes associées 2. Ski Nordique, Marc Breuil, Ed. Denoël, 1989, pp.210-225. Article également publié dans La Montagne et Alpinisme, 1985. Manuscrit du compte rendu de l'expédition. 3. Groenland / Les Alpes de Stauning / MONGABURE Rémi. Paris-Chamonix, décembre 2004 / janvier 2005, n° 171. - 20-23 topo de notre expédition en anglais

2009 GUMS Expedition to Stauning Alps Report Summary The main objective of the expedition has been achieved : first ski traverse from Alpefjord to Skjoldungbrae followed by the first ski north-south traverse of the Stauning Alps. An interesting and quite easy new route which avoids the difficult traverse of Col Major was opened. Unhappily one of the team member suffered from frostbite at one foot and was evacuated by helicopter. Due to adverse weather and snow conditions most of the planned summit ascents were suppressed. We went back to Constable Point by ski through Nordvestfjord and Jameson Land. Wonderful and unusual route with reasonable difficulties in Stauning Alps. The return via the magnificent Nordverst Fjord and Jameson Land occupied by a lot of animals and in particular numerous muskoxen is also advisable. For Stauning Alps traverse : 174km for basic route with 8300m positive elevation + 67km and 2300m of positive elevation for ascents without pulkas, performed in 21 stages and 26 days. 10 passes traverses, two summits and five other passes ascents in Stauning Alps. First ski traverse for five of those passes and two of them were traverse for the first time.

For return to Constable Point : 171km, 8 days. Total traverse from Alpefjord to Constable Point : 345km in 29 stages and 34 days. The weather was worse than reported by previous spring expeditions with numerous cloudy days and frequent snow falls (estimated total snow fall was more than 2 meters during our Stauning Alps traverse). Perhaps it is due to the global climate change. Happily there is few wind in those mountains as reported by previous expeditions. In consequence of those snow falls, moving forwards was slow and tiring due to deep track. The avalanche risk was significant due to accumulation of fresh snow and we changed somewhat the planned route to avoid too risky passes and in particular Col Major. We have suffered from cold weather during the first week even at mid day with lower temperature than mentioned by previous expedition ( continuously between -20°C and -30°C).

Events and followed route The reported altitudes (alt.) and positions were plotted with GPS except for altitudes mentioned with ~ plotted with altimeter adjusted on the nearest GPS point. The names of passes and glaciers are those mentioned on Bennet map. Times mentioned are total times including halts (walk time excludes halts and includes equipment transfer time across the passes). April 10 : Flight from Paris to Kevlavik. April 11 : Flight to Constable Point. Helicopter drop on Alpe Fjord, in front of Vikingbrae. Camp 1 : N 72°11'24'' W 25°24'37''. April 12 : Ski tour on Alpefjord and up its west bank. Vikingbrae access reconnaissance. 6h. 14km. April 13 : On Vikingbrae by true left bank with a short quite steep slope on moraines (35° up 30m). After some moraines go on by the middle of the glacier. Camp 2 : N 72°10'58'' W 25°17'36'' – alt. 390m. 7km. 7h (5h walk). April 14 : Vikingbrae up to junction with Friheds glacier. Camp 3 : N 70°10'34'' W 22°05'39''W - alt. 968m. 6km. 6h30 (5h walk). April 15 : Friheds glacier up to its icefall. Camp 4 : N 72°13'15'' W 25°02'52'' - alt.1593m. 6km. 6h30 (5h walk) April 16 : Friheds glacier icefall, easy with a short quite steep section (30° up 100m). Friheds pass traverse, easy : 35° up 30m on south side, gentle slope on north side (N 72°12'58'' – W 25°00'49'' – UTM 26X 567704W 8014146N - alt. 1980m). Likely the first ski traverse of that pass. Ascent of the small summit right of the pass (alt. ~2100m) by its SE slope. Bennet map is wrong : the pass is between Tour Carrée and a small summit (~2100m) and not between P.2250 and Frihedstinde. Camp 5 : N 72°13'17'' W 25°00'20'' – alt. 1810m.

3km. 10h30 (9h walk). Temperature of -30°C during the evening (the lowest registered temperature during our trip). April 17 : Descent on Skjoldungbrae. The icefall is easily passed by the right side. Up on the glacier leading to a pass between Skjoldungbrae and Harlech glaciers (we call it Harlech pass). Camp 6 below the icefall : N 72°13'16'' W 24°42'27'' – alt.1110m. 13km. 9h30 (6h30 walk). Temperature of – 27°C during the morning. April 18 : Evacuation of Guillaume Blanc by helicopter due to foot frost-bite. Not severe, but it was judged too dangerous for him to go on in such conditions. The problem was due to continuously low temperature even during mid day with deep snow. Temperature of – 29°C during night, -26°C during the morning. April 19 : Up to the icefall easily crossed with pulkas. Harlech pass traverse (N 72°12'49'' W 24°39429'' – UTM 26X 579828W 8014299N - alt.1400m). Likely the first ski traverse. That pass is just south of the Castle and is the easiest pass between Skjoldungbrae and Bersaerkerbrae. Very easy access to the pass and 35° down 120m on the Harlech glacier side with a cornice. Harlech glacier descent down to Bersaerkerbrae (junction alt. 620m). Camp 7 on Bersaerkerbrae : N 72°10'21'' W 24°35'25'' - alt. 650m. 8km. 9h (7h walk). April 20 : Up Bersaerkerbrae to junction with the glacier leading to Glamis col pass (alt. 950m). Camp 8 : 72°06'38''N – 24°39'31''W – alt. 970m. 8km. 5h30 (5h walk). The weather formerly good changed with snow fall and warming in the afternoon (0°C at 6pm). April 21 : Due to bad weather the planned Dunottar ascent was suppressed. Short walk on Bersaerkerbrae and Glamis col reconnaissance. April 22 : Ski tour on the Bersaerkerbrae up to the pass east of Kensington (N 72°08'3744 W 24°51'56'' – UTM 26X 573034W 8006230N - alt. 2260m). 2 x 10km, 9h (8h walk). Good weather. April 23 : Glamis col traverse (N 72°05'48'' W 24°34'4944 – UTM 26X 583008W 8001383N - alt. 1410m). Likely the first ski traverse. The icefall is easily crossed near the true left bank of the glacier. The pass is the lower pass right to the head of the medium branch of the glacier, right of a small rock pinnacle. Easy pass, 30° up 50m to the pass and 40° down 30m on the other side. The pass at the head of the glacier right branch (alt. ~1500m) cannot be traversed by ski. Down to Kishmul glacier. Camp 9 : N 72°03'31'' W 24°37'06'' - alt. 960m. 7km. 8h30 (6h walk). Good weather and deep snow.

April 24 : Up to the north branch of Kishmul glacier. Cross the first crevices zone by the left (south side), then traverse right below the icefall and cross the icefall by the right, below the Glamis peak. Camp 10 below the pass : N 72°05'23'' W 24°32'12'' - alt. 1616m. 6km. 7h30 (6h walk). Exploration of the pass at the head of that glacier. April 25 : Traverse of that new pass between Kishmul and Schuchert glaciers at the head of the north branch of Kiskmul glacier, just SE of Kishmul peak (N 72°03'24'' W 24°37'15'' – UTM 26X 581793W 7996853N - alt. 1700m). 35° up 80m to the pass. 50° down 60m on the other side with a cornice. We went through the lowest and narrow gap between two small rock pinnacles. On the right (north) of those pinnacles the pass descent is less steep. Descent on Schuchert glacier (junction alt. 1300m) and up on Schuchert glacier. Camp 11 at the junction of with the glacier leading to Trumpington col : N 72°02'40'' W 24°47'11'' - alt.1525m. 6km. 8h30 (6h walk). April 26 : Trumpington col traverse (N 72°02'56'' W 24°51'12'' – UTM 26X 573835W 7995694N - alt. 2000m). The icefall is easily passed on the left (true right bank of the glacier), liable to ice falls. Access to the pass is very easy. 45° down 60m on the other side. Camp 12 below Crescent col : N 72°03'01'' W 24°53'34'' - alt. 1820m. 6km. 8h (6h walk). In the evening, ascent of Crescent col and the fine and easy snow summit at the head of the glacier east of Crescent col, on the crest between Schuchert and Lang glacier (N 72°03'57'' W 24°51'55'' – UTM 26X 573353W 7997568N - alt. 2370m). Crampons useful for the short final west ridge. Grade F+. Wonderful sight. 2h30 walk and 1h back to camp. 2 x 5km. The pass just north of that summit ( N 72°04'01'' W 24°51'58'' – UTM 26X 573318W 7997685N – alt.2300m) can be traversed in place of Trumpington col but it is much steeper on its east side. Its west side is very easy. The combination of Glamis col, Kishmul-Schuchert col and Trumpington col is an interesting and quite easy new route which avoids the difficult traverse of Col Major used by previous expeditions. Due to big accumulations of fresh snow, col Major traverse was likely impossible or very dangerous for us. April 27 : Descent on Lang glacier. Up on glacier leading to Pulkas col ( junction N 72°00'37'' W 24°54'57'' - alt. 1537m). Track up to the col. In that area the Bennet map is wrong. The Pulka col is located just north of Diadem and close to the east side of Bavariaspids. Camp 13 at the junction with the small glacier bay leading to the Pulkas col : N 72°00'01''N 24°57'34''W – alt. 1757m. 7km. 5h (4h30 walk) + 3h for pass track. - 25°C at 8pm. April 28 : Pulka col traverse (N 72°00'20'' W 24°59'06'' – UTM 26X 569468W 7990716N -

alt.2050m). Up by a 180m high snow slope 35° steep, end 40°, possible avalanche risk. 35° down 60m on the other side. Down Kirkbrae with numerous crevasses. Upper icefall more or less right side of the glacier. Camp 14 at the junction with Sefstroms glacier : N 72°00'02'' W 25°09'20'' – alt.1170m. 9km.10h30 (9h walk). Good weather since april 22. April 29 : Up on Sefstroms glacier and Cantabrae. Up on Cantabrae big icefall, first easily near the true right bank then less convenient due to numerous crevasses in the middle and north side of the glacier. Exhausting track due to very deep snow and poor visibility. Camp 15 on the upper glacier plateau : N 71°56'24'' W 25°14'40'' – alt. 1913m. 8km.11h (10h walk). Weather changed with snow fall in the afternoon. April 30 : Bad weather. Snow falls all the day and wind at the pass. Newnham col traverse (N 71°56'35'' W 25°16'55'' UTM 26X 559435W 7983439N alt.2280m). 45° up 80m on east side with last 20m on ice. Some avalanche risk due to snow accumulations by wind. West side is very easy. Planned Snetoppen ascent suppressed due to bad weather. Camp 16 on the glacier south of the Newnham col : N 71°53'23'' W 25°14'21'' – alt.1940m. 5km. 9h (7h walk). May 1 : Continuous snow fall and intermittent wind. Rest day due to bad weather. May 2 : Continuous snow fall (40cm of fresh snow during the night, more than 1m since three days), poor visibility. Descent to Roslin glacier (junction N 71°55'43'' W 25°16'57'' - alt. 1586m) and up to Roslin-Duart pass ( N 71°52'53'' W 25°20'36'' UTM 26X 557499W 7976494 – alt. 1739m, and the foot of Plinganser col. Camp 17 : N 71°51'45'' W 25°24'46'' – alt.2094m. 12km. 9h walk. Exhausting track in very deep snow. May 3 : Plinganser col traverse (N 71°51'23'' W 25°25'05'' – UTM 26X 554975W 7973646N - alt. 2225m). The good pass is the lower one well on the left, at the foot of Munchner Tinde ridge. East side is very easy. 40° down 120m on west side. Possible avalanche risk (already fallen in our case). Lower point on Spörre glacier ~2020m. The Bennet map is wrong in that area. There is another pass just south of Munchner Tinde which seems easier than Plinganser col. Up on Spörre glacier to Darien pass (N 71°50'17'' W 25°24'10'' – UTM 26X 555565W 7971606N - alt. 2320m) with very deep track. Exploration of the pass just south of Darien pass which was judged too dangerous to traverse due to avalanche risk. Camp 18 at Darien pass. 4km. 9h30 (7h walk) + 2h walk for other pass exploration. Clouds and sun. May 4 : Bad weather again. 30cm of additional fresh snow that day. Attempt to descent the steep (45°) SW side of Darien pass. We gave up due to avalanche risk and lack of visibility.

Back on Spörre glacier (lower point 2090m) and traverse of the pass just north of Mittenwaldertinde (N 71°50'25'' W 25°30'35'' – UTM 26X 551837W 7971744N - alt. 2228m). East side is very easy. West side is very steep : 140m high slope, 55° on few meters then 50°. Good snow and low avalanche risk that day (due to steep slope, the avalanche was already fallen). Down to Borgbjerg glacier (junction N 71°49'15'' W 25°34'19'' - alt. 1737m). Camp 19 : N 71°48'55'' W 25°33'34'' - alt. 1780m. 8km. 11h (8h walk). May 5 : Borgbjerg-Orion col traverse (N 71°47'19'' W 25°30'30'' – UTM 26X 552028W 7966007N - alt. 2170m). North side 35° up 60m with deep snow. South side is very easy. Down Orion glacier to near Jupiter glacier with deep track. Camp 20 : N 71°42'22'' W 25°15'14'' – alt. 1215m. 16km. 10h30 (9h walk). Cloudy day with few snow falls. May 6 : Junction with Jupiter glacier (N 71°42'07'' W 25°15'03'' - alt. 1214m). Up to Jupiter and Canis Minor glaciers. Easy Triton col traverse (N 71°38'52'' W 25°19'34'' – UTM 26X 558815W 7950446N - alt.1770m) : 35° up 70m on east and 35° down 70m on west side with already fallen avalanches on both sides. Camp 21 on Triton glacier : N 71°39'02'' W 25°21'29'' - alt. 1580m. 9km. 12h (10h walk). Fine weather. May 7 : Down on Triton glacier. The lower icefall is quite complicated and was crossed not far the right bank. Down on Neptune glacier : exit the glacier by the right bank. Down in the easy valley to Nordvest Fjord. Camp 22 on Nordvestfjord bank : N 71°31'45'' W 25°37'22''. 20km. 8h30 (7h walk); Fine weather, cloudy in the evening. Warm (+1°C at 10pm). End of Stauning Alps ski traverse. May 8 : Through Nordvest Fjord and Holger Danskes Briller ( pass alt. ~100m). Camp 23 : N 71°24'41'' W 25°01'30''. 26km. 10h (9h walk). Cloudy day. May 9 : Through Kjoveland and the fjord to Gurrenholm (Camp 24 : N71°14'43'' W 24°35'05''). 25km. 12h30 (10h walk). Windy and cloudy in the morning. Good weather in the afternoon. Muskoxen, arctic hares and fox observations. May 10 : Through Jameson Land via north route plotted on 1/250 000 Geodaetisk Institut map. Camp 25 : N 71°12'48'' W 24°06'17''. 18km. 8h30 (7h walk). Foggy, small snow falls and warm (0°C at 9pm). May 11 : Through jameson Land. Numerous small canyons to cross. End in a deeply enbanked valley. Impossible to move forward in this valley due to snow accumulation. Camp 26 : N 71°10'42'' W 23°41'50'' – alt. 213m. 15km. 7h30 (6h walk).

Good weather in the morning, then bad and windy weather. Numerous muskoxen observations. May 12 : Up on the plateau avoiding the areas without snow, then down inside the deep valley at a junction of rivers (N 71°11'19'' W 23°03'58''). Then following the valley. Camp 27 : N 71°10'40'' W 23°00'33'' – alt. 214m. 27km. 12h (10h walk). Good weather in the morning, then cloudy with small snow falls. May 13 : Up by the valley to an undefined pass ( N 71°09'30'' W 22°53'39'' – alt. 300m). Down by a narrow valley (entrance N 71°08'50'' W 22°46'59''). Camp 28 at the junction with Klitdal : N 71°03'21'' W 22°35'40''. 23km. 9h (8h walk). Cloudy. Some arctic wolf tracks visible. May 14 : Kikdal to the south. Difficult progression due to lack of snow, mud and flooded valley. Camp 29 on the fjord bank : N 70°50'10'' W 22°30'44''. 25km. 14h (12h walk). Flights of geese (Bernache Nonnette) by hundreds. Fine and warm weather. May 15 : To Constable Point by the fjord. Some slush. 12km. 7h (6h walk). Fine and warm weather. May 16 : Flight from Constable Point to Kulusuk and Reykjavick. May 17 : Flight from Keflavick to Paris.