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PICTORIAL INSTALLATION MANUAL
ENDURO® OUTBOARD BOTTOM BRACKET REBUILD KIT
REAL WORLD CYCLING
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE
RACE FACE® X-TYPE BEARING SYSTEM
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES • Enduro® Outboard Bearing Replacement Kit • Bottom Bracket Bearing Puller/Press Tool • 8mm Allen wrench • 10mm Allen wrench • Outboard bearing cup tool (Park BBT-9 or similar) • Rubber-faced mallet • “Pocket” screw driver (very small, flat blade) • Silicone grease or anti-seize compound • Torque wrench
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE: REMOVE YOUR BICYCLE CHAIN BEFORE BEGINNING
1) Loosen the right side crank arm and spider assembly using an 8mm Allen wrench (turn counter-clockwise).
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NOTE: The 8mm wrench will pass straight through the 10mm hex in the extractor cap, which is to be left in place.
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2) Remove right crank arm and spider assembly. ©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
3) Remove left crank arm and spindle assembly. a) Remove all the drive side spacers, making a note of them for re-assembly.
3a
3b b) Use a rubber mallet to “start” the spindle if it won’t pull out by hand. c) Set the left crank arm and spindle assembly aside.
3c 3
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
4) Remove the left, or non-drive side bearing cup. Make a note of the spacers for re-assembly.
6) Place a large screwdriver into the “V” opening of the puller and use it as a “T” handle to pull the dust cap off. Repeat for the other side.
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©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
5) Remove the DRIVE (right) side cup. a) Turn the bottom bracket cup wrench clockwise.
5a
5b b) Set the inner sleeve and the spacers aside (take note of the spacers for proper re-assembly).
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
6) Set one of the bearing cups down on a flat surface and insert the Collet from the Bearing Puller/Press Tool. “COLLET”
Insert the collet narrow-end-first. The rubber ring holding the collet halves together is not necessary. Particularly when removing bearings from the Race Face cups, it will be easier to expand the collet with the rubber ring removed. “COLLET EXPANDER”
7) Start the collet expander into the collet.
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©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
8) Apply pressure to the Collet Expander until it “seats” between the collet halves.
If you encounter difficulty in getting the expander to seat between the collet halves, lift the cup off of the flat surface and push on the expander until it fully seats as shown.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
9) Set the bearing cup (with collet and expander) into the Cup Holder.
“CUP HOLDER”
10) Press out the bearing and plastic cap by inserting the Bolt and using an 8mm Allen wrench to turn it clockwise until you hear and feel the bearing “drop out” of the cup.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
11) Lift the cup off of the Collet Expander.
12) Unthread the Bolt from the Cup Holder and remove the old bearing and plastic cap.
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©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
13) Remove the sealing ring from the outer circumference of the bearing cup. ( If not removed, this ring will interfere with the new sealing system)
“BEARING GUIDE”
14) Place one of the bearings from the Enduro® Kit onto the 24mm side of the Bearing Guide. (The other side of the Guide is for installing OE bearings)
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
15) Place the Bearing Guide into the Cup Holder.
16) Place the bearing cup on top of the new bearing.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
“SUPPORT”
17) Place the Support into the threaded end of the bearing cup.
18) Insert the Bolt and turn it clockwise with the 8mm Allen wrench until it “bottoms.” Then, remove the bolt and take out the bearing cup.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
19) The bearing will not yet be fully seated in the cup. To accomplish this, place the old bearing in the Guide and repeat the pressing process as shown in “A-E” below: “BEFORE”
B
A
C
“AFTER”
E
D
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
20) Re-install the left (non-drive side) cup and spacer(s).
a) Apply anti-seize compound to the cup threads.
b) Replace original spacer(s).
c) Start the cup into the frame by hand. The left side threads in normally (clockwise). d) Use a proper BB Cup Tool to tighten the cup firmly in place. ©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
21) Re-install the right (drive side) cup and spacer(s). Remember: 1) Apply anti-seize to the cup threads. 2) Replace the proper number of spacers. 3) Install the inner sleeve!
Remember that the drive side cup has reverse, or left-hand threads. Tighten by turning counter-clockwise. You will notice that the Enduro® BB system does not use plastic shims for the spindle. The inner race of our bearings has a smaller ID that directly contacts the spindle. This allows room for larger ball bearings, improving strength and stiffness.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
22) Place a seal on the spindle and slide it up to the left crank arm spacers. Orient the seal so that the silicone side will face away from the bearing. 23) Lubricate the spindle with grease and insert it through the bearings (starting with the left cup!). If your bike’s bottom bracket faces are parallel and the bearings are properly seated, the spindle should line up with the opposite bearing and come through with very little effort. If you encounter some resistance, be sure the spindle is lined up and then tap the left crank arm with the heel of your hand to help it through.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
24) Place the other seal over the end of the spindle and slide it up to the bearing.
25) Replace the original spacers.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
26) For easier driveside installation, remove the crank extraction cap from the crank arm. Turn the cap clockwise with a 10mm Allen wrench to loosen.
“EXTRACTOR CAP”
With the crank extractor cap removed, the crank bolt can be removed.
“CRANK BOLT”
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
27) Lubricate the spindle splines and crank bolt threads. 28) Aline the splines and start the drive side assembly onto the spindle.
29) Start the crank bolt by hand (it threads in clockwise).
30) Tighten the crank bolt until the splines “bottom out.” Final torque should be 30 Foot Pounds (NOT Inch Pounds). NOTE: IF YOU NOTICE ANY UNUSUAL TIGHTNESS, OR IF THERE IS TOO MUCH PLAY, PLEASE SEE THE FACTORY TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE ON PAGE 21.
©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
31) Lube the threads of the extractor cap and thread it into the crank arm. Remember it has left-hand threads, so turn counter-clockwise.
32) Tighten the extractor cap by turning it counter-clockwise with a 10mm Allen wrench. Maximum torque is 160 Inch Pounds. Remember that the purpose of this cap is just to make the crank bolt self-extracting. It is not helping to keep the crank arm attached, so not much torque is required. Replace the chain and go ride!
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
RACE FACE® FACTORY TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE CONDITION:
CAUSE:
FIX:
ASSEMBLY “TOO TIGHT”
• BB shell width too wide (out of tolerance)
1) Ensure BB shell threads are chased cleanly and that BB shell is faced (after painting).
• Excessive Rotational Friction (beyond reasonable amount of initial seal drag)
• BB shell not faced or milled correctly to remove all paint
2) Ensure BB shell width is within tolerance. If too wide, face-mill BB shell down until it is within required spec.
• Bearing SideLoading Apparent
• BB shell threads misaligned • Extra chainline spacer is mistakenly added. • Assembly tolerance stack-up on all parts
3) If #1 and #2 above are correct, proceed to on the of the following options: OPTION 1: - Remove assembly from bike. - Remove 1 x 1mm chainline spacer (preferably from non-drive side so chainline isn’t affected). - Re-install remaining spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per installation instructions #5 and #6 above. OPTION 2: - Remove assembly from bike. - Remove all spacers and seals from LH (non-drive) side of spindle assembly. - Remove 3.5mm Quad-Ring preload elastomer from recess in LH crank and replace with supplied 2.5mm pre-load elastomer (flat shape, black rubber) into recess in LH crank. - Re-install spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per installation instructions #5 and #6 above.
CONDITION:
CAUSE:
FIX:
ASSEMBLY “TOO LOOSE”
• BB shell width too narrow (out of tolerance)
1) Ensure BB shell threads are chased cleanly and that BB shell is faced (After painting).
• Excessive side to side “Play” is noticable in the BB spindle / cup assembly when grabbing opposing ends of crank arms and rocking back and forth laterally.
• BB shell not faced or milled correctly to remove all paint
2) Ensure BB shell width is within tolerance. If too narrow, proceed to step #3.
• (Note: a small amount of detectable movement is normal and acceptable.)
• BB shell threads misaligned • Required chainline spacer or spacer seal is missing from installed assembly • Assembly tolerance stack-up on all parts
3) If #1 and #2 above are correct, proceed as follows: - Remove assembly from bike. - Add supplied extra 1mm spacer seal (black) to non-drive side of assembly (so chainline isn’t affected). - Re-install assembly into bike as per installation instructions # 5 and # 6 above. 4) If assembly is “loose” with optional 2.5mm pre-load elastomer installed, proceed as follows: - Remove assembly from bike. - Remove all spacers and seals from LH (non-drive) side of spindle assembly. - Remove 2.5mm preload elastomer from recess in LH crank and replace with supplied 3.5mm Quad-Ring pre-load elastomer into recess in LH crank. - Re-install spacers and re-install assembly into bike as per installation instructions #5 and #6 above.
• Generally the assembly rotates very freely with little or no detectable rotational friction or drag.
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enduro fork seals .com
RACE FACE® X-Type
REAL WORLD CYCLING
PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS
Outboard Bottom Bracket Bearing Replacement Kit by Enduro Bearings
Outboard Bottom Bracket Bearing Puller/Press by Sonny’s Bike Tools
These great procucts available at:
www.enduroforkseals.com ©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.
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