EDITORIAL Mars Express: or how to explore the Anglo-Saxon universe at the speed of light. Mars Express, our school newspaper has been printed for the first time. It is the result of huge efforts from first year journalist students and first year J-Info Com (JIC) students to work together in the same direction. We have chosen to write articles about our region, especially Marseilles since it is the second largest city in France. We wanted to focus on the various aspects of Anglo-Saxon culture in Marseilles. It is however a wide field of investigation as there isn't an organised Anglo-Saxon community here. The difficulty was to interview people in English, and to achieve a whole project in a language that we do not all speak fluently. The articles are very varied. You will find portraits of British citizens working in the French Riviera, interviews of artists, articles concerning culture, way of life and tourism. We all hope you will enjoy reading this first edition of Mars Express, and we thank all the people who took part in it.

CONTENTS Editorial......................................................................................p 2 Best regards from France........................................................p 3 Alone in Marseilles...................................................................p 4 Marseilles, to stay or not to stay?...........................................p 5 Culture in a British consulate?.................................................p 6 No bookings needed for the Book-in-Bar................................p 7 Another point of view of Marseilles musical stage..................p 8 A corner of Ireland in Marseilles..............................................p 9 Two Englishmen in South of France.........................................p 10 Holy missions to Marseilles.....................................................p 11 Sea, sun and sport (and NOT a corpse in sight).....................p 12 Horoscope................................................................................p 13

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WRITING COMMITTEE CHIEF EDITOR : PIGNOL Sylvain. LAYOUT : CREUSOT François, Mazier Nathalie, CAMILLE Roux, AMPHOUX Célia. COVER & BACKPAGE : MARTY Vincent. WRITING : AREVALO Claire, BOUTEILLER Florent, BROWN Luke, CARLIOZ Romain, CREUSOT François, DELAÎTRE Sibylle, DUPONT Bénédicte, GONTHIER Laurence, HOFF Jérôme, LEFEBVRE Marion, LUBY Jennifer, MANIN Caroline, MAZIER Nathalie, MICHENEAU Juliette, PERON Alexandre, PIGNOL Sylvain, REMANDE Raphaëlle, RICHARD Elise, ROUX Camille, TIGHIDET Nadia, ANDANSON Justine, ARNAL Anaïs, BRAUD Virgine, COUVRET Michaël, DABOUDET Fabrice, GERIN Yann, GUELLERIN Julien, GIORDANO Nelly, LEONE Nantcy, MARTY Vincent, MAUNOURY Oilvia, Ruspini Sonia, SILLY Xavier, TANCREZ

Best "regards" from France It is not always easy for a foreigner to live in another country, to adapt him/herself, to be accepted by its inhabitants. What is it like for Americans who come to France? A glimpse from the seventies and from today …

As we were expecting a very classy business woman from New York at the Petit Nice in Marseilles, we met Mollie - an absolutely atypical American. With her ruffled curly black hair and her bohemian eccentric style, she looked like a Parisian painter from the 70s. When she started telling us about her arrival in Paris, 40 years ago, the same image crossed our minds : Patricia from A bout de Souffle, by Jean-Luc Godard, a young American girl coming to Paris with her head full of dreams and "clichés" of France. "Simone de Beauvoir was my idol, a kind of role model, my biggest wish was to meet her and tell her how much she had inspired me…" And she did meet her, but no word came out. "I was petrified", said Mollie. First disappointment for her. Although everything was exactly as she imagined, all the more since she found a flat in Montmartre, she felt vexed by the Parisians' welcome. "They made fun of my accent and were neither helpful nor friendly… almost arrogant." And yet, after returning to New York for two years, she decided to come back to France, but in the South this time. She never left …

Mollie, “an atypical American”.

"Aix-en-Provence is so beautiful, like in a movie. You want to take pictures of everything", Lara says with enthusiasm. Sara goes on: "I love the markets here. They have nothing in common with those you see in Indiana."

Another time another view Change of setting: we are in Aix-en-Provence to meet a group of students in the American library on the very picturesque "Rue du Bon Pasteur". Three girls and two boys, coming straight from all over the United-States: Texas, Colorado, California, Indiana… to study in a French university. From the very beginning of our interview, we felt very comfortable, just as if we had known them forever. Contrary to Mollie, they immediately told us how much France was as they had imagined. .

And what about French people? "Really helpful and open-minded, whether they be from Paris or Marseilles. We felt at home very quickly, and we especially enjoy the warm bread straight from the oven and a slice of cheese." Talking about food, we noticed that French cuisine was what they would most miss when they go back to the United-States, shortly after Thanksgiving. Having a chat with these two generations made us wonder if France has changed so much between the 70s and today, that even Americans now think we are good-hearted. Maybe French people are not that cold, after all…

Justine Andanson, Nelly Giordano, Xavier Silly, Sarah Vauzelle

3

Alone in

Marseilles

Feeling home-sick in Marseilles for an English citizen could be the worst thing ever… Even though the second biggest city in France is known as a cosmopolitan place, there are not many typical English places… Apart from a few pubs such as "the Red Lion" where Shakespeare's language can be heard, the places where English people can go to feel at home are difficult to find. If they enjoy reading in their own language, they can go to the English bookshop Rue de Lodi in the 5th arrondissement where they can find all kinds of books including classics… If they have any health problem, they could be tempted to seek help at the Pharmacie anglo-américaine situated on the Canebière but they may quickly be disappointed because the name of this chemist's has nothing to do with anything English! They might have the same kind of experience with a café called "Cup of tea" in Le Panier, an old district near Le Vieux Port and the Hotel de Ville. This café looks like those you can find in Britain - and not only because of its name - but there is not a single English person in it and it belongs to a genuine marseillais… But what do English citizens really think about all this? Do they really care about not sticking together? Integration but… Deborah C., 35, from Southern England and Joan D., 48, from Wales consider that spending time exclusively with English is pointless. "I think it is a shame to remain with English people while I'm here. My friends are French. The foreigners never stay for a long time and so it's hard to build a strong friendship with them", Deborah says while keeping an eye on her two sons who are playing hide-and-seek around her. She arrived five years ago in Marseilles because her husband got a job as an engineer and insists on the importance of sending her children to a French primary school. She is now trying to organise English classes in her son's course for the children to share their culture. Joan who came to France six years ago as an English language assistant, agrees with Deborah and for her, "meeting people from everywhere and not solely from England is a rich experience". She even admits "avoiding English people" and chose to live in Marseilles with her husband. None of them is interested in finding information about cultural events at the British Council but in spite of all this, Deborah misses her favourite TV programs and Joan would appreciate going to the cinema to watch movies in English…

Interesting places for English speakers:

Church of England 4, rue du Belloi 13006 Marseille

Great Britain and Northern Ireland Consulate 24, Avenue du Prado 13006 Marseille

The Red Lion (pub) 231, Avenue Pierre Mendès France 13008 Marseille

English Bookshop Librairie Maurel 95, rue de Lodi 13005 Marseille

SYBILLE DELAITRE, JÉRÔME HOFF, LAURENCE GONTHIER, CAMILLE ROUX

What's

really

English

4

in

Marseilles

?

Marseilles, to stay or not to stay When asked about which city he prefers to live in,between Marseille and London, Dan Talson hesitates. This 29 year-old fellow arrived in Marseille about a year ago, as he was looking for a place to live in the sun…even if he mostly works at night! Dan, alias VJ Dubassy, is a VJ, a visual version of DJs. "My work consists in showing visuals and videos in some form [on giant screens], in close collaboration with a DJ" mixing music . Dan/Dubassy has been performing for almost six years, mostly in England, at the Ministry of Sound. In Marseille, he became a member of the Digital Borax Association and performed with French and international VJs .Dan is inspired by the atmosphere he catches in Marseille's urban jungle. Constantly fed by the things that surround him, he can find interest in retro headphones, road signs, people. "In Marseille you can stumble on all sorts of things in the streets!". Stuffs left over, and to which he will give a second life. "The light is different as well and it's important for me." He also confesses his taste for a good Pastis, rather than a beer, and fancies going out on the Cours Julien or to the Calanques. Like most foreigners, he deplores the troubles he had with our administration, though this did not prevent him from finding a nice and luminous flat in La Plaine. Lucky Englishman! Interested in his work? You can find him at the "Studio 88" in Aix-en-Provence or on www.dubassy.com / e. [email protected]

September 1st 2006. Flight GlasgowMarseilles. Philip Tees, 20, fixed his first step on the French soil. Well, he is not exactly a novice. He has already been in Strasbourg, in Paris. And in the South of France, for holidays. But now, no beaches, no naps anymore. He is supposed to study law at the University of Aix-Marseilles III. So, like a Martian landing on Earth, he discovers, learns, meets. What? French people of course. “I definitely haven’t met as many as I would like to. One problem is that it’s too easy to just socialise with the other foreign students”. Obviously, when you emigrate, you look instinctively to people who come from your area. Ally, his friend since college and two other girls also chose AixMarseilles. But Philip keeps a lucid look on this situation: “People often relate to each other in different ways depending on where they are from. So I probably need to ‘Frenchify’ myself a bit”. That’s why he tries to be suitable for Marseilles. Not that easy for a brand-new arrival. He’s planning to do climbing and body building, to get involved in the city’s activities. He admits that Marseilles is such a huge city that you can easily feel lost. But being an outsider allows you to appreciate things that local people probably take for granted – everything is new and exciting. Anyway, as he says “In Scotland, anywhere in the South of France seems very exotic because it is so different from home.” An exotic experience, a ten-monthlong adventure in Marseilles.

English teacher in an American Centre, Terri Galli is forty-one and has lived in Marseille for sixteen years. Born in Santiago, the American woman first went to Aix-en-Provence in 1987. She was a student and could not speak any French. “Studying in France was a challenge to learn another language but I didn’t have a plan.” Why did Terri decide to stay? Because she fell in love with a Marseillais who is now her husband and the father of her two children. Teaching English was also a “spontaneous decision”. But now, this Marseillaise by adoption doesn’t regret a thing. On the contrary, she loves her job. “What I like about teaching is meeting people”, explains the American woman. “This is probably why it was easy for me to get settled in Marseilles.” Although Terri thinks she is well integrated, she does not understand people who live in Marseilles’ lack of discipline. The rubbish and the dog messes on the streets still shock her. “I find Marseilles is a beautiful city with a lot of potential, but the quality of life and the vehicular traffic should be improved.” The American woman also deplores the French attitude of “chacun pour soi”. But she admits that Marseilles’natives are more simple and more human than Americans. Above all, they have a very “chaleureux” accent. “All my friends say that I have an american marseillais accent when I speak French”, observes Terri with a large smile. “But I think I’ll never be a real Marseillaise because I don’t like pastis!”

Benedicte Dupont Elise Richard

Jennifer Luby

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N a m e O’Donnell, red hair, bright smile: no possible mistake, Sharon is Irish. And so is her home-made food. Ask her for a cheddar and pickles sandwich, with Walker’s crisps and a can of Dr Pepper, you’ll have it in a minute at Carre’s Kitchen, the place she runs with her husband Renaud. «I moved to France for love. My friends and family doubted I’d stay and it’s been a challenge for me. Renaud and I used to live in Paris and we moved to Marseilles three years ago: I really missed the seaside.» In Paris, Sharon used to work in Irish pubs but not one would give her a job in Marseille, so she opened her own place. Home-made sandwiches, soups, pies… it sounds attractive, but the locals did not really seem tempted. «The first year was terrible. People kept passing by but nobody dared come in.» Last July, Sharon had her moment of glory with an article in the local newspaper, La Provence. From then on, more and more people came to enjoy some fresh coleslaw with a piece of cheesecake. Sharon seems happy with her little business, but enjoying Marseilles is quite another matter. «The city was a real shock. Streets are so filthy, with kids and a pushchair it’s a real nightmare! I was struck by people’s indifference, they just don’t seem to care.» Sharon found it hard to integrate and has very few friends here. Although she likes the beaches and the surroundings, she admits dreaming of going back home to Ireland. Juliette Micheneau

Culture in a british consulate Attracted by the sunshine and property prices, both retired and young English people come to France, and especially to the South, to start a new life. For several years, the British Consulate has been supporting partnership actions led by the British Council in the PACA region. Pascale Gauthier-Keogh, Officer of The British Consulate of Marseille, explained her job to us: What are the aims of the British Consulate in Marseilles? The British Consulate covers several regions: Paca, Languedoc, Roussillon, Corsica and Monaco. Its general aim is three-fold: first, we assist and protect British citizens in case of difficulties, whether they are tourists or residents. The consulate deals with student passports, deaths, accidents or arrests - in the latter case there should be a direct contact. Second,we help British companies to export their products to our areas thanks to a commercial section UK TI (UK Trade Investment). And the third activity we have here is political affairs together with press and communication. This is what I'm in charge of. What is exactly the difference between an Embassy and a Consulate? The British Embassy in Paris is a very important Embassy abroad. France is a strategic point. Within the Embassy there are several sections and there is also a regional network which is made of four consulates: Lille, Lyon, Bordeaux and Marseilles. The UK TI section in Marseilles reports to the UK section in the Embassy. If you have to transfer information from somebody who is in prison to his/her family in the UK, we don't go through Paris, we go through London. If we have to find the family of somebody who died in France, we go through the Ministry in London. Does the consulate also have for mission to ensure a cultural link? The cultural education fields are already covered, not by British Consulates but by the British Council which promotes culture and education for Britain abroad. We sometimes help to promote cultural events in our area. So very often there are British Council projects that we try to help here from the consulate, perhaps standing a press release to the local press, to draw attention to that particular event. Informing the general public is our aim.

Just press and communication? It's just a relationship with the press, it's not an organisation of events. We don't arrange cultural events although there was an exception in 2004 during the 'Entente Cordiale' centenary, where we were supposed to promote cultural events.

COMING SOON - " Parlez-vous rugby ? ": Education & Sport projet for World Cup 2007. - "Holiday In"project , "Art tour package" of Artists in London, Vilnius, Marseille.

Does the consulate insure links with British artists? Recently, there was also an exception which was again to draw the attention of the press about a cultural event happening in Marseilles. We did that under the banner of corporation agreement between the City of Marseilles and the City of Glasgow. Do the same rules apply to the Paris embassy?

Union Jack Flag

We have the same strategy. Each section has the political strategy of the Embassy. The same goes for communication or press. We're working together in the same line. By Virginie BRAUD Nantcy LEONE Vincent MARTY Sonia RUSPINI

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The Entente Cordiale symbol

No bookings needed for the Book-in-Bar Rue Joseph Cabassol, Aix en Provence. A shop. Amuffled atmosphere. On the right, the cash register. A room like a living room. But full of books. It is a library. At the bottom, there is the bar. Welcome to the Book-in-bar. The place was created five years ago. Why a British library in Aix en Provence? "Why not?" answers Luke Delmet. He is in charge of the shop with two women, former language students. He was eager to create a friendly place: " Here the relationship between the customer and the staff is less commercial than in a typical library . We give advice. We've got the time to do it." In the shop, there are novels, essays, and school books, second-hand books and newspapers. At the entrance, there are best sellers, too. The latest John Irving. Hingston, nearly sixty years old, is staring at books. Today, he is looking for a book about the Battle of Agincourt. As he says, "I am passionate about history and biography above all." He has been living in Aix for ten years. His wife is French. He is regular at the Book in the bar. But he never spends more than fifteen minutes in the library. Today, he does not find the book. But he never asks for advice. And never drinks anything. Because food and book do not mix. To him "books are food". Nevertheless, he likes the place, its quiet atmosphere. In the children's department, a family. Richard Davis, the father, came to Aix en Provence to meet somebody. Their first time in the city. In Book in bar too. He is looking for books for his two children. James, his son, likes Tintin. On the shelves, the inevitable Harry Potter faces the Little Prince. At the bar, two young students. They are looking for a flat in the small ads. Book-in bar is also a meeting place, a friendly atmosphere around a cup of tea. A place where students, teachers, English speaking people can relax. Nathalie Mazier- Marion Lefebvre

Book-in-Bar - 1 bis, rue J. Cabassol 13100 Aix en Provence Tél / Fax : 04 42 26 60 07 7

Some literary advice At the moment, Luke Delmet, Book in Bar manager, recommends two novels, two stories based on charismatic characters. Time of our Singing by Richard Powers The Time of Our Singing is an absorbing drama about an American family. The saga starts in the 30's when a German-Jewish physicist, David Strom meets Delia Daley, a black, classically trained singer from Philadelphia up to the 1990s. The novel pulls the reader along in its wake with the ingredients of a bi-racial marriage in the Civil Rights Era, the militant black activism and family relationships. The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafon. In the 50's, in Barcelona. Daniel Sempere, the son of a bookseller, ten years old, discovers a novel : The Shadow of the Wind by Julian Carax. Rumours spread about the rare book. A horribly disfigured man would burn every copy he can find of Carax's novel. As he grows up, Daniel's fascination for Carax increases. He starts to quest Carax's life. Frightening parallels between his own life and the author emerge. A book full of metaphors and comparisons, a bestseller in Spain.

Another point of view of Marseilles’ musical stage Not so easy to find an English speaker in Marseille ! Contrary to African, South American, Spanish or Asian people, music is the only thing that induces them to move to the South of France! Rob, Mike, Freddy and some other musicians left Canada a few years ago in order to set up a funk music group in Marseille. Seduced by Marseille and its public, their trip was a one way ticket! According to Mike and Freddy, Marseille is a kind of melting pot where music from the entire world can meet. "People from Canada are more interested in Western instruments", Mike notes. "We can feel an interest for world music: derebouka, karkabous, neil, houd…Everything is possible here". Moreover, the public in Marseille is quite different from the American one! In fact, American people seem to have a better sense of rhythm than the Marseillais." The inhabitants of Marseille clap their hands in time and that is very surprising. It becomes quickly a kind of cacophony", Mike pursues. But Marseille's musical stage is not really a fairy tale. American people are amused by the numerous reggae groups in Marseille. According to them, "Marseille just kills reggae". In fact, they insist on writing in English without understanding the words they use." In Marseille, those who sing reggae try to make Bob Marley's music but they are way out. No one speaks English but everybody uses this language: this is incomprehensible and absurd". Even though Marseille and music are profondly interrelated, musicians cannot make a living with music. It is the same for musicians in Ottawa. Musical stages abound in Marseille (Balathazar, Machine à coudre, L'Intermédiaire, Poste à galene, Café Julien) but budgets remain tight. Nadia Tighidet and Claire Arevalo

When a Canadian singer meets Marseille’s public Freddy is a tall blue-eyed guy, about 30 years old, who often looks around him as if he were looking for someone or something. As he explains himself, he is not so well integrated in France. He hasbeen here since April 2002 but he still does not speak French fluently. The Canadian singer came to Marseilles for two reasons: love and music. He first had many difficulties accepting some aspects of the city. For example men who are, according to him, macho. He adds « The culture was so different from what I was used to » Freddy looks tense when you talk to him. He does not seem to know where to put his hands. For his friends, he is shy. For this guy from Vancouver, arriving in France has been « a great thing since I got to know myself better ». Freddy also explains he would ke to speak French, so the public in Marseilles could understand him. He has just started taking lessons and wants to stay in the Mediterranean city. Anyway, one of his best Canadian friends, Mike, explains : « He is such a good singer, nobody here needs to understand what he says » Raphaelle Remande

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Mike,bassist, International Funk Organisation « Why did Marseilles?

you

come

to

I was offered a job to play music. My girlfriend broke up with me. A group call Watcha Clan called me for a national tour. So Marseilles or Montreal…I wanted to discover a new country, new musicians. That’s why I came. No regrets? Home is here for me now. I have developed a lot of relationships there. When I go back to Montreal for vacation after two or three weeks I want to return there. What is your opinion about music in Marseilles? The French kill ragga and reggae. I don’t understand why French people want to sing in English. The words say nothing. This is “yogurt”. I love reggae but not French reggae! Is the public different? Yes the French public doesn’t know what rhythm is! But there is a lot of enthusiasm, people shout and it is motivating! Places where we play are full. It’s amazing, incredible.”

Caroline Manin

A wee corner of Ireland in Marseilles For all Anglo-Saxons, spending time in a pub is a tradition, even when they live abroad. In Marseilles, many bars claim to be genuine pubs, but sometimes, it is not the case. However, it is possible to feel something of the Irish spirit in rare places, such as at Connolly’s Corner.

A

flashy yellow house in a corner, just between an orthodox church and the

Mediterranean Sea: that’s Connolly’s Corner. At first sight, just another pub, not particularly original. At 4 PM, the doors open to a warm interior. A few pictures are pinned on the wall, showing sepia scenes of Irish life; on the other side, a map reveals the traditional representation of the country, including Ulster. Despite “happy hour” starts at 4 – 8 PM, there are only a few regular customers in the room. Behind the taproom, the barman is waiting for us. A heavyset guy with a blond ponytail and blue eyes is Liam Connolly, which explains the name of the pub. He was born in Coclear, a city in the Connaught region. He went to Paris twenty years ago, to open an Irish pub, because he thought that with a 20,000 strong Irish community, there was a great commercial potential. According to him, he was the first to open such a kind of bar in theFrench capital. Ten years later, following a friend’s advice, he decided to move to Marseilles to develop his business in another big French city and passed the Paris pub management to his two sons. “I bought this place because I wanted to build my new pub at the corner of two streets, but also because it was cheaper!” he laughed. To his mind, a genuine Irish pub is a place where all the family can go to share a joyful moment together, “from eighteen to eighty!” People have a Guinness, the true drinkers’ favourite ale. In fact, Liam says that “Guinness is highly touted also because it’s the most famous”. And the boss knows about real and part-time drinkers. French people order a half when Anglo-Saxons have already finished their third pint. Two Scottish guys enter loudly in the pub: “A Guinness and a Kilkenny, boss!” Liam smiles and greets them in English. He explains to them that budding journalists are waiting for an interview, and everyone bursts out laughing. Subsequently, Liam says that one of his goals was to “share a part of Irish culture and way of life with the French”. Indeed, Connolly’s Corner is a place where people can mix. This is particularly true during international sporting events, like the Six Nations’ tournament or football matches. People from all sorts of English-speaking countries get together to share a pint, “making up to 20 percent of the customers” Liam adds. Though there are still tensions between the English and Irish communities due to the situation in Ireland, he gladly hosts anyone around a pint of Guinness. He also explains that sometimes, “French people come here just to improve their English with native speakers.” This melting-pot of genuineness, sobriety and open-mindedness, typical of a public house can’t be found in any other so-called “pub” in Marseilles; there you can drink a beer and watch football games on plasma screens, with team shirts from all around Europe pinned up on the walls and ceiling. But to feel a part of Ireland in your heart, Connolly’s Corner is one of a kind. Connolly’s Corner 2 avenue de la Madrague de Montredon 13008 Marseille

Romain Carlioz, Sylvain Pignol, Florent Bouteiller

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Garry CROWFOOT 53 years old From England Created “Communiquer” in 1986.

Luke JAMES BROWN 25 years old From Bristol, South West of England EJCM student

[email protected] www.communiquer.net

First of all, I read on your web site that you have lived most of your life in France. Can you explain what you mean by that? I lived in England until the end of my undergraduate studies and then moved to Canada to do a Masters degree in Geography at the University of Toronto. Part of my doctoral studies involved spending a year trying to study in Paris (where there were too many distractions!). What did you do before establishing “Communiquer” in France, what professional activities did you have? First of all, I was teaching English and translation at the University of Nice. Then, I moved to the private sector, giving courses in English, to the French personnel of international companies in the South-East (IBM, Digital, Texas Instruments...). At the same time, I set up a parallel activity of French language and communication courses and orientation courses for international personnel joining the high-tech companies in Sophia Antipolis. Saddam Hussein put an end to that venture by invading Kuwait. Senior managers and directors of international companies had to reduce their travelling to a minimum, so they could no longer participate in training programs on the French Riviera. After six months with virtually zero revenue, we closed the company. This brings us to 1986, when I set up Communiquer . My function was to bring in business and do the copywriting side of the activity. Success was rapid and we worked with companies like Dow Chemical, Goodyear, Cisco, CCF... But, we had a lot of eggs in the same basket (high-tech, internet, banking) and when Saddam Hussein (yes, him again) became the object of an American invasion and the internet bubble burst, once again business as reduced to nearly zero.So, I bought the shares of my business partner, discovered that I could design brochures and make videos and now business is going well again (and if Saddam Hussein remains in jail, perhaps it will continue to do so for a while). Why did you decide to come to France, and especially to the South of France? Probably because of a film with Brigitte Bardot that I saw in the village cinema in England when I was 11, even though the minimum age was 16. It made a lasting impression on me... However, she has changed a lot since then! Did you have difficulties to find an accommodation or for all the administrative steps? It took me only a week to find an apartment and, as I was totally ignorant of the administrative steps, I did not follow them. I have never been able to assemble all the papers necessary to satisfy the administration. I don´t like writing «lu et approuvé» at the end of documents and giving my profession in every form (I have been declared as everything from «agriculteur» to «cadre dirigeant» and no-one has asked: the question is totally unnecessary). What is the difference between England and France, regarding employment, and more generally the job market? I find that there is too much respect for diplomas in France and not enough respect for what people can actually do. I also find that French employers don´t appreciate young people enough - I am always surprised to see people who are in their early twenties managing businesses in the UK. You also see a lot of second- or third-generation immigrants of Indian, Pakistani or Caribbean origin in positions of responsibility in the UK, something which is sadly lacking in France; this may have something to do with the obsession with diplomas, and their effect on excluding people from the job market What is the thing you like most in the South of France? And the one you hate? Like most : Mediterranean cuisine Hate most : the Front National Olivia Maunoury

10

What did you do before arriving in France? I studied French in England and then, I worked as a teacher in Metz, Montpellier and in the Vosges. How did French people welcome you? I had a friendly and warm welcome. When I was in Vosges, I was often invited for dinners during the weekend. French people love to eat well and to get together, I like it. What did you expect when you arrived in France? I used to come in France for holidays when I was a child , so I expected to find again a holiday atmosphere. French people are slightly more relaxed than British ones. Did you have difficulties to find an accommodation or for all the administrative steps? A lot! Especially in Marseille! For accommodation, I noticed that people refuse to sign a tenancy agreement with English and foreign people in general, they do not trust the bailsman. When I visited flats, I had the impression that they were visiting me! In France, most of the time, the first answer you have is “no”. What is also difficult is all the administrative details: I had to fill in a lot of cases and forms for social insurance, mutual insurance, etc. Everything is based on paper in France whereas in England, most of the things are oral. Do you think France is ready to welcome foreign people? It is difficult for us to adapt ourselves the first three weeks but then it’s okay so I think France is ready to welcome students. Study programs such as Erasmus are very good. It is never a bad thing to come to France. What is the difference between the English and French educational systems, regarding teaching, teachers and students? In England, you have to pay a huge amount of money to go to university because it is the best you can do during your studies; you are already very clever when you go there. In France, the university is more democratic, you have better facilities to enter because it is just after the A-levels. Tests are very different: in France you have to memorize a lot of things for the “partiels” whereas in England, you take few exams; instead you do a short memoire. The relationship with teachers is quite the same. I think that the most obvious difference is between students. The French ones seem more serious whereas the English ones drink a lot and do not concentrate on their studies. What is the thing you like the most in Marseille? And the one you hate? Like most: “je-m’en-foutiste” people Hate dog shits and dirt in general. Amphoux Célia, Arnal Anaïs and Tancrez Muriel

Holy Mission to Marseilles

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arseilles is a cosmopolitan city where many religions intervene, Catholics, Muslims and Jews compose this improbable mosaic. On the fringe of these main streams of belief, the Church of Jesus Christ and the Latter Day Saints, a dissident Christian branch neither Catholic nor Protestant, reside quietly and mysteriously. Pointed by some as a sectarian community but officially part of the Christian church, the so called Mormon Church lifts up a few questions we tried to answer by following the journey of two American missionaries, Austin Palmer from Denver and Jeffrey Kesterson from Las Vegas. The latter spoke openly to us in a sincere interview, revealing the truths of the Latter Day Saints. Las Vegas (also known as the sin city) is lost in the middle of the Californian desert and takes in an important Mormon community which praises a paradoxical idea, the "respect of the morality dictated by the Lord". Jeffrey Kesterson was born in this singular environment on January the 21st, 1986. He was raised with his four brothers next to the Las Vegas’ famous Strip, a place where puritan ideals are overtaken by a profusion of vice. He graduated from high school while working on two student jobs and entered the University of Las Vegas in 2004 which he left after one semester. The money earned over the past two years allowed him to finance his training to become a missionary in order to "preach the words of the Lord". The missionary president decided that France would be Jeffrey's area of proselytism, so after a nine week training, he finally gets a chance to set down in the land of cheese. After a year and a half in Angoulême (Charente), he set up in Marseille in July 2006. He was "impressed by how many countries are represented" and "thought there would be more French people". Jeffrey temporarily lives with three other missionaries in an apartment in the 8th arrondissement, but his mission president could allocate him to any other city in France, depending on the needs of the Church. He tries to find people to teach, he invites them to be baptised, to pray, to read the Mormon book, to do so, he knocks on doors and talks to people on the street, a hazardous and hard thing to do in certain areas of Marseilles such as the northern districts. His religious activities do not leave him much time for hobbies, "it's a full time job" he states. He only has one day a week to communicate with his family via e-mails, go shopping or visit the surroundings of Marseilles. When asked to describe his religion, he says "we believe that God speaks to us the day, that he's established the Church of Jesus Christ with a prophet and his twelve apostles and he's restored the authority". He also specifies that "the apostles are called by the Prophet at the time, by revelation of the Holy Ghosts". Mormons do have a great faith in their first prophet, Joseph Smith who restored the authority of Christ in 1830 by translating the

golden tablets, the source of the Mormon book which is used as a complement for the Holy Bible.The Church of Latter Day Saints which has more than 11 millions people within its congregation throughout the world, only counts 30,000 French church-goers. Joseph Smith's precept telling that ‘’What Human beings are, God was. What God is Human beings will be", shows how the Mormons are close to God. However, Jeffrey confessed that he still felt tempted by forbidden things among which we find alcohol, tobacco, coffee, tea, drugs or sex outside marriage bounds, "It's not like I'm perfect or anything, we still have temptations, and we still have ideals" came out as the most sincere expression of the meeting. The Church of Latter Day Saints became a specialist of genealogy, what could seem to be a joke is in fact an essential heart of the faith. The Mormons consider that the family can be together forever and they have different ordinances such as baptism for people that passed away, called baptism for the dead. Considering the impressive documentation gathered by the Mormons, the French government decided to entrust the genealogical records of most of the French population to the Church of Jesus Christ. Jeffrey tells us that he is not restrained towards the medias, he can read what he wants when he wants. He is even pushed to get a lot of education and to be knowledgeable but he is never encouraged to endorse any political point of view. However, as a missionary, he prefers not to read papers and stay away from the world concerns, so he can focus on his mission. As the interview goes, we approach more sensitive topics, like the role of women in the Church. Here again Jeffrey claims justice and says that women are equal to men, they just have a different role "just like a mother and a father have a different role". When he gets back to America, Jeffrey hopes to date and marry someone (preferably a "Mormon lady") and to join the FBI or the CIA, just like any other young American citizen… Gerin Y., Couvret M., Guellerin J., Daboudet F.

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Sea, sun and sport (and not a corpse in sight ! )

MARSEILLES IS FINALLY EMERGING FROM ITS CÔTE D’AZUR NEIGHBOURS’S SHADOW TO CASH IN ON THE TOURISM JACKPOT Despite being perfectly placed on the Mediterranean coast, Marseille has long struggled to overcome the gangster reputation that has cost it an enormous amount in lost tourist revenue. While half of the 40 million € tourists spend in France ends up in the Côte d’Azur, Marseilles has failed to capitalise on its natural assets. Are things changing ? It would appear so. With the Paris-Marseilles TGV line a runaway success, and a tripling in number of cheap flights to Marignane Airport, Marseille is easier to reach than ever before. And with prices in general much lower than its local competitors, Marseilles is slowly seducing foreign tourists, and English-speakers in particular. But this has taken a long time : due to a mix of fact and fiction (step forward Bernard Tapie and The French Connection), American visitors still expect to find themselves in a European Chicago, while the British Foreign Office warns visitors to drive with their car-doors locked. However, through successful publicity campaigns in London and general word-of-mouth, the city’s image has improved in recent years. Indeed, the Bitish Consulate receives less crime-related complaints in Marseilles than in Nice.

climbing and wind-surfing resorts), while Australians and New-Zealanders are expected in great numbers for the 2007 Rugby World Cup, and should be pleasantly surprised by the city’s sport-mad inhabitants. We asked two sets of English speaking tourists for their impressions of Marseille

«B – oo – tiful !» That’s how Australian couple Cait and Aidan sum up their impressions of Marseille after a flying visit to the South of France to catch their favourite artist, Ben Harper, in concert. Having spent two days soaking up the sun and the sights, they would definitely recommend Marseille, and particularly appreciated the friendly welcome they received. On the down side, they found that the town doesn’t have enough accomodation for young people.

This is in itself essential : France is Britain’s Number 1 tourist destination, but Marseilles has for too long missed out on the tourist revenue bonanza. To continue the ambitious rebuilding projects already in construction and to kickstart the local economy, Marseilles knows it must make the most of its advantageous geographical position. What can Marseilles offer over-and-above its competitors ? Foreign visitors rarely differentiate between the different places along France’s Mediterranean coastline, lumping Marseilles in with Nice, Monaco, Aix and Montpellier. Thus Marseilles knows it has to start vaunting what it does best : its sunshine, its beaches, its unique culture and history, its sporting facilities, and, above all, its welcoming atmosphere. Americans on flying visits of Europe note the Marseille welcome as their number-one memory, especially compared to the frosty one generally expected and received in their other main French destination, Paris. On top of that, passengers aboard one of the three hundred cruise-ships that dock in the Vieux Port each summer appreciate Marseilles’s fantastic sports facilities (especially its proximity to sailing, scuba-diving,

Equally positive were the Broislin family (pictured above) who, having spent two weeks holidaying in the South of France, say that they preferred Marseilles to Monte Carlo, Nice and Italy, finding it more welcoming, exciting, unique and interesting. They too would recommend Marseilles to their friends back in County Kerry, Ireland. So, with such positive vibes from those who make the trip, Marseilles is surely on the right track. Whether it can carry out its grand municipal projects to a sufficient extent while continueing to mutate into a viable and serious tourist destination remains to be seen. If so, it could be the beginning of a happy cycle of socialregeneration and tourist boom. LUKE BROWN, FRANÇOIS CREUSOT, ALEXANDRE PERON

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Horoscope LEO: Hey Simba, how is it going, mate? Damn good! Perfect. And you know what? This mood will last for quite a while in the next weeks…unless you start eating bad flesh. Be aware that a balanced diet is the secret of well-being and good health. Now you know what to do: diversify your menu!

SAGITTARIUS: Do you hear this sweet melody? This is the sound of a good professional week. You wanted a hike in your wages? Perfect time to ask for it. You yearn for holidays? Your boss will agree for sure. You wish he could be fired and hope to get his job? Bad person you are. Don't ask the stars such things…we are not paid enough to do that!

TAURUS: VIRGO: Do you think being a Stars foretell a new partTaurus happens by channer in your daily life. ce? Do you think being horny is a mere Somebody will get really really close to coincidence? If you are single, you you. A boy or girlfriend? A baby? A dog? won't stay alone for long! Cover up! You should check that your mother-inlaw does not plan to move into your house!

CAPRICORN: Don't be so sad! The last three horoscopes you read told you that you'll lose your job, your friends will ignore you and your kitchen sink will be blocked again. Never mind! Since when have you believed in such bullshit???

GEMINI: LIBRA: Looking for Mr. or Ms. You need a little change? Right? Start looking You're fed up with your around you and act! This week is YOUR best friends, your loved-one, and your week (not like Aries! Poor fellows) boss. Here's my tip: look for the latest buddy! Put on your glossy shirt and sti- Ryanair offers and head on to lettos: here comes the time to show up! Marrakech or Oslo. For only 14.99 Not too much though… who the hell do Euros, make yourself a gift and disapyou think you are? pear for a while! … No, no we won't miss you! Be careful: North Korea is not that fun and you should avoid South Korea, above all if you have twin

AQUARIUS: "Un inconvenient truth", here's the title of Al Gore's movie, on screens this week… Please, Aquarius, we all know what you did, you should indulge in the Police before Jews get blamed again. Frankly, we know it's the end of the world in a month's time, and you, vicious, mean and nasty Aquarian, you are going to burn in Hell for the sins committed by you and by your father.

ARIES: Watch out! Your purse might choose to follow the Nicole Richie's style! Avoid spending money uselessly! If you don't want your bank clerk to turn into a serial killer, you should learn how to patch up your clothes! And repeat after me "Potatoes are good for health".

CANCER: Bad smokers you should quit…before lung cancer catches you first (ah ah ah what a joke!). Seriously, do you really think smoking is cool? A good week to lose the bad habit and start to do a little sport… I know you owe me everything!

SCORPIO: PISCES: Self-confident? You think Not that easy to be an this week is going to be African illegal emigrant the nicest week ever? You idiot! You who used to live with his family in a should stay in your bed until next squat near Cachan, huh? Keep cool, Thursday! Stock your packs of hankies, you could have been a Pisces… call your best friend and buy some peanuts butter! Most of all, don't take the train to Luxemburg unless you feel like committing suicide.

Bene Moon and Jenny Star

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