John CAVE (1819-1871) & Elizabeth nee WOODFORD (1816-1896) Fashion, Industrial Revolution and Social Life in Sherborne (1843-1847) As a continuation of the CAVE's saga, begun in the GT 2010 No 35.1 p. 3 and GT 2011 No 36.2 p. 53, here is a new and unexpected development. Why unexpected ? Because I knew very little about my 3rd great grandparents but he was a draper and she was a milliner in the 1841 census as well when marrying the same year in Dorchester. I knew he then became an accountant in London as soon as 1851, travelling hither and thither in England (Shrewsbury, Shropshire 1851 and Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire in 1861), and she first remaining a milliner in the same 1851 census, then became simply an accountant's wife in the later censuses. We may consider we are lucky to rely on all these essential censuses (thank you, H. M. the Queen Victoria !), but they seem a little short to provide us all we would hope to learn of them regarding the life — events, joys and sorrows —, of a young couple and I felt desperately frustrated not to know anything more. And surprisingly they baptised their children all over the country, like they intended to confuse the tracks maliciously: John 1845 in Sherborne, Dorset ; Francis 1847 in Taunton, Somerset ; my 2nd great grandmother Rosa 1849 in London ; Frederick 1854 in Wellington, Somerset and Alice 1857 in Wellington, Somerset as well, as they appear in the family Bible, held by my cousin Glenys Tumney in Australia. But hopefully I was contacted by The British Newspaper Archive team in the very beginning of late November for they were looking for people to test the beta version of their website (http://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk). It was a kind of Newtonian apple for me, bang on the head ! First, I tried to find those I was seeking for, those who seemed to me more interesting, those wealthier chaps one wonders they might have left some traces in the history, or, in an opposite way, those I didn't know anything of. No luck. Then I tried those intermediate ancestors, neither poor nor rich, belonging to the middling sort of people. Bingo ! I saw immediately John and Catherine CAVE appearing no less than 34 times in the Sherborne Mercury within 4 years, between 1843 and 1847. And I was amazed to discover that they established their trade in Victoria House, Parade, Sherborne, in the very place where our Society, I became a member of in 1997, set up its headquarters a few years ago. What is the rate of probability that all this happens ? John and Catherine took over the trade of Thomas JOHNSTON, as it is advertised in the Sherborne Mercury on the 25th of March 1843 : “VICTORIA. HOUSE, PARADE, SHERBORNE. THOMAS JOHNSTON, Linen and Woollen Draper, DESIRES to return his most grateful thanks to his Friends for the liberal support he has received for the last twenty-six years in the above Business, and begs to inform them and the Public generally, that he has declined the same favour of Mr. JOHN CAVE, whom he takes the liberty now earnestly to recommend as worthy of their kind patronage.” In the same, John CAVE presents himself as “(from WILLIAMS and SOWERBY, Commerce House, Oxford Street, London) Linen and Woollen Draper, Silk Mercer, Hosier, Haberdasher &c., &c.,”, which seems a very good recommendation, as we can see in Crime, gender, and consumer culture in nineteenth-century England by Tammy C. Whitlock, Ashgate Elizabeth CAVE nee Publishing Ltd., 2005, p. 24: “The wealth of the West End spread North WOODFORD in 1872 to Oxford Street in the early to mid-nineteenth century. By the late 1830s Oxford Street consisted 'almost exclusively in retailed shops'. At no. 61, Messrs. Williams and Sowerby offered 'foreign velvets, satins, and fancy articles of the richest description.' Buying directly from their suppliers, Williams and Sowerby were able to offer the height of fashion at a more reasonable cost. According to John Tallis, this shop was nicknamed 'the Grande Centre of Distribution' by manufacturers on the continent. Oxford Street, Regent Street, and Bond

Street were the centre for elite retail trade, the envy of the rising middle classes, and the location for many retail innovations like emporiums and department stores — two types of retail establishments that placed aristocratic dreams of consumption within the grasp of the non-landed classes.” And if you have a closer look on the web using Google, you'll find a stunning picture of the “Saloon of Messrs Williams and Sowerby, Oxford Street, London; from The Mirror of Literature, Amusement and Instruction, 26 April 1845.”, at http://www.lookandlearn.com. Just two years after John CAVE left London and his very skilfull and canny patron. But he never forgot the lessons given by his boss, regarding a new kind of trade, more efficient than the traditional pre-Victorian little shop. So in the same first advertisement, he presents his wife : “J. C. begs to inform the Ladies of Sherborne and its neighbourhood that, in addition to his Drapery Stock, Mrs. CAVE intends adding the MILLINERY TRADE to the above business, in which department, from the long experience she has had in both English and Parisian Houses, and having carried on this business a considerable time at the West End of London, she feels confident of meriting the approbation of those Ladies who may honour her with their favours. Her Millinery and Show Rooms will be opened on the above-mentioned day with a splendid assortment of Millinery and Fancy Goods.” A very well-known and innovative London patron for him, a long experience in English and Parisian houses for her, several departments of trade in both drapery and millinery, several show rooms, and thirty advertisements within four years, all that in a little provincial city (4,075 inhabitants in 1831) : what an achievement for a young couple, 23 and 26 years old, isn't it? But the CAVEs weren't pleased enough with such omens. They wanted to become the HARRODs of Dorset. They wanted more improvements, more stock, more changes, more investigations in Manchester, London and Paris to find out the best, the newest and the cheapest so that a luxurious flood of novelties runs upon Sherborne bigger, smarter and faster. So they travelled every year, even twice a year each of them: “... JOHN CAVE … begs respectfully to inform them he has just returned from the London and Manchester Markets, where he has made extensive purchases in every description of GOODS suitable for the approaching Season”, advertised twice, on Sat 30 Sep 1843 & Sat 7 Oct 1843, on the first page, often using big capitals. And his wife advertise in the same way, on Sat 18 Nov 1843: “Mrs. CAVE begs respectfully to announce to the Ladies of Sherborne and its Vicinity, that she has just returned from the LONDON and PARISIAN HOUSES with a NEW and ELEGANT ASSORTMENT of MILLINERY, CLOAKS, MANTLES, FURS, SHAWLS, FLOWERS, FEATHERS, &c.” And again in May 1844 and in October & November of the same year. In March 1845, she was back “from the Manufacturers of LUTON, DUNSTABLE, AND CONTINENTAL MARKETS”, and he was back again from London & Manchester markets in May 1845. And again and again in September (him) and October 1845 (her), in May 1846 (both), in October (him) and Novembe1846 (her) and probably, even not literally told in the advertisements, in March & April 1847. What is fabulous in all those journeys, is that they perfectly illustrate the very brand new developments of the glorious British Railway, which improvements are advertised in the same pages. When you are trading in Sherborne, like my CAVEs, first take the coach of the Royal Dorset coming from Weymouth and join the White Lyon Inn, Broad street, Bristol by Yeovil, Ilchester, Glastonbury and Wells, then the main line of the GWR, from Bristol Temple Meads to London Paddington, very usefully opened on the 30th of June 1841, and you are ready to sniff out the latest trends in London. If you want to join as well Luton, Dunstable, Manchester or Paris, it's another story to tell. Therefore the purpose of my retailers was to buy cheaper, building up all their stock directly from the factories, without paying all those hungry intermediates. So it appears that they completely remodelled all their departments twice a year, and that the operation took no less than an entire week to be complete: “MRS. CAVE Begs to announce to the Ladies of Sherborne and its Neighbourhood that her SHOW ROOMS will RE-OPEN on Thursday, the 15th., with a splendid assortment of MILLINERY; comprising every Novelty from PARIS and LONDON up to the 12th instant, in BONNETS, CAPS, RIBBONS, FLOWERS, FEATHERS, &c., &c., of which Mrs. C. invites an early inspection. Dated May 7th, 1845.” How many employees might have been involved in this adventure? Half a dozen in the best days? Less? More? It's difficult to know, but in November 1846 they advertised: “J. C. has a VACANCY for

TWO ASSISTANTS. None need apply who do not thoroughly understand the Business and cannot give first rate reference with regards to character, &c. — A personal interview would be preferred.” And till the closing of their business, they asked twice for “a YOUNG MAN in the DRAPERY DEPARTEMENT, one IMPROVER, and an APPRENTICE in the MILLINERY”. Moreover, they also took advantage of opportunities in their marketing strategy. In his very beginnings, in March 1843, he advertised: “the whole having been purchased for cash, will, he is confident, on inspection, be found superior in quality and lower in price than anything of the kind ever submitted to public notice, being determined to give those who may be pleased to favour him with their patronage the full benefit of the present well-known depressed state of the manufacturing markets.” Then, on the 13th of September 1845: “and in consequence of the LATE FIRE IN ALDERMANBURY, LONDON, he has selected from the Goods saved, and but slightly damaged, either by fire or water, a quantity, consisting of SILKS, SHAWLS, PRINTS, LINENS, CALICOES, RIBBONS, PLAIN AND PRINTED ORLEANS, COBOURG CLOTHS, &c., &c., At such sacrifice as will enable him to offer them at Very Great Bargains.” Note that the fire took place on the 18th of August and that, according to the Morning Post, Aldermanbury was “the well-known nucleus of Manchester warehousemen in the city of London”. Finally they also tried to hold on the Sherborne market with exclusivities: “J.C. has been appointed SOLE AGENT, for SHERBORNE and the neighbourhood, for SIMISTER'S PATENT WOVE and FRENCH COUTIL STAYS; also of BASSETTS IMPROVED FLANNELS, warranted not to Shrink. The testimony of Families who have fully tried the Improved Flannel is, that it invariably becomes, softer after washing, never shrinks, and wears about twice as long as the Flannel in common use.” in September and October 1843. And in January 1845: “BY HER MAJESTY'S ROYAL LETTERS PATENT. JOHN CAVE, Draper, BEGS to inform the Nobility, Gentry, Clergy, and Public, that he is APPOINTED SOLE AGENT in Sherborne for the Sale of SIMPSON'S NEW PATENT HAT. Their superiority over every other Manufacture consists in being perfectly Ventilating, Elastic, and Soft to the Head, which can be proved by bending them nearly double, neither will they LOSE THEIR SHAPE, nor INJURE in RAIN, or EXPOSURE to any WEATHER, a TEST WHICH NO OTHER HAT CAN BE PROVED TO BEAR. THE FOLLOWING ARE THE SCALE OF PRICES: - ENGLISH SILK 8.6 - FRENCH SILK 10.6 FRENCH VELVET 12.6 - SATIN VELVET 14.6 . Observe Simpson's Patent in Letters of Gold on the Leather of the Hat.” Wouldn't you want any of those, would you? And at least, in May 1846, “The NEW GOLDEN FLAX SHIRT COLLAR, and CRAVAT, and MARGETSON'S REGISTERED SHIRT COLLARS in every size and shape.” I should say that, to cut short in all this stuff not to bore the reader, I missed the many items which were sold in the stores, sometimes different a year from another; each of them would deserve a whole development, to fully illustrate the early Victorian fashion. They thought as well it was skilful to be introduced and involved in the local community to be closer to one's customers. And what a better way to do so than by attending a charity? So they did and each in the family played its part, John CAVE, 26, as well as his younger sister, Ann Elizabeth, 19, on the 24th of January 1845: “SOMERSETSHIRE. NORTON-SUB-HAMBDON. Our usually quite and retired village was a scene of great attraction on the evening of Friday last, in consequence of the concert announced by the members of the Stoke Harmonic Society in behalf of the poor. We believe no efforts were spared by our worthy magistrate to ensure a numerous and highly respectable attendance … The vocal part of the performance afforded the highest sense of gratification to the assembly, in the accomplishment of which the valuable assistance of Mr. Thorne contributed in no small degree. The singing of Miss Cave was much admired in Calcott's beautiful glee, 'Poor Insect', but more particularly so in Bishop's 'Hail Smiling Morn', which latter piece was encored … We shall content ourselves therefore with noticing ... a solo on the flute by Mr. John Cave … After the finale the performers proceeded to Norton House, where an excellent repast was provided for them, and we understand the convivialities of the evening were continued to a late hour.” Nevertheless the clouds began to gather all over their heads. In Sherborne Mercury, Sat 23 Jan 1847, p. 3: "On Wednesday Sarah Coffin, of Sherborne, was committed to Dorchester gaol by the Rev. John Parsons, to take her trial at the next assizes, charged with having stolen several pieces of ribbon

and a piece of diaper, — the property of Mr. Cave, linen-draper of this town." But above all, the angry competitors weren't keen to admit these dangerous challengers. One of them, Mrs PENN, Cheap street, allegedly coming from London and presented as a successor to Mrs. ROBISON and Miss THEOBALD (the latter from Madam DAVIES, Grosvenor-street, Grosvenorsquare, London; “in consequence of her exceeding ill health, she is compelled to relinquish her business, which she resigns in favour of Mrs. T. F. PENN” only a year after taking over from Mrs. ROBISON) appeared for the first time in November 1843, six months only after the CAVEs established themselves. Began then the war of advertisements. Thirteen advertisements from Mrs. PENN compared with the 22 of the CAVE's during the same period. My ancestors might have been too hazardous, taking huge financial risks and investing too much in their stock, maybe also relying too much on the capacity of the Sherborne consumers to absorb all that new stuff every season of the year. Then the 10th of April 1847, “THE WHOLE OF THE WINTER STOCK, COMPRISING MANTLES, VELVETS, SCARFS, SHAWLS, FURS, SATINETTES, SILKS, CASHMERE, DE LAINE, AND OTHER DRESSES, WOOLLEN PLAIDS, COLOURED ORLEANS, AND COBOURG CLOTHS, BONNET AND CAP RIBBONS, FLOWERS, FEATHERS, &c., &c., WILL BE OFFERED AT ONE HALF THE COST PRICE.” The older winter stock, unsold and still too abundant, hinders the deployment of the spring one and the market was probably depressed once more. Less than one month and a half later, I guess they have failed to honour their commitments to their suppliers and they were to resign, even if they escaped the bankruptcy: “DRAPERY, SILK MERCERY, BONNETS, MILLINERY, &c., TO BE SOLD, WITHOUT RESERVE. MANY LOTS, REGARDLESS OF COST, WILL BE NEARLY GIVEN AWAY. W. & S. DINGLEY, Being declared the PURCHASERS, by the Trustees of the Estate of Mr. JOHN CAVE, Cheap-Street, SHERBORNE, of the whole of his STOCK OF DRAPERY, SILKS, &c., At a large Discount from the Cost Price, BEG to inform the Inhabitants of SHERBORNE and its neighbourhood, that they will Commence SELLING OFF, On the Premises, on THURSDAY, the 27th Instant, WHEN THE SHOP WILL BE REOPENED. The STOCK, a great part of which consists ot NEW and USEFUL Goods in Silks, Muslins, Delaines, &c., Together with almost every other Article in LINEN AND WOOLLEN DRAPERY, Will be offered at such prices as cannot fail to secure a ready sale. The Millinery Stock, which contains many valuable and choice articles, the greater part of which is quite new, will be LAID OUT in the Show Rooms, and Sold at a Very Great sacrifice. Dated Sherborne, 19th May, 1847.” Game over. Elizabeth has been pregnant for the second time and on the 29th of March 1847, she had given birth to her second son, Francis, in Taunton, two years after her older, John. She could no longer play her part, going and buying in London the new fashionable items, looking at the employees, taking on the new ones and welcoming ladies and gentlemen in her departments. Was it easy to find the efficient staff? As we saw earlier, too many demands from the patron and, maybe, too low wages for the assistants, who knows? John and Elizabeth were to flee Sherborne. Ann Elizabeth, John's sister, married, guess what, a grocer, tea dealer and linen draper, a widower, Charles James HADDON, in Wellington, Somerset in December 1848. And their third child, my 2nd great grandmother Rosa, was born on the 1st of July 1849 in Devonshire street, nowadays Boswell street, at the corner of Queen's square, London. But to end with a more optimistic note illustrating the better days of their wealthy trade, why not to have a look on Ladies Paradise of the French novelist Emile Zola, as well known in France as Dickens in England, which tells the story of the Bon Marché, created in 1838. For example, p. 215, it's amazing how this quote perfectly reflects the very brand new early Victorian upmarket department store my ancestors intended to create in Sherborne: “People were commencing to leave, the pillage of the stuffs had encumbered all the counters, the gold was chinking in the tills, whilst the customers went away, their purses completely empty, and their heads turned by the wealth of luxury amidst which they had been wandering all day. It was he who had possessed them thus, keeping them at his mercy by his continued display of novelties, his reduction of prices, and his 'returns' — his gallantry and his advertisements.” Arnaud C. Aurejac-Davis - [email protected] - France