© Lonely Planet Publications 580
Guǎngdōng 广东 At the southern end of the coast of China, rebellious Guǎngdōng was, and still is, disdained by most northerners as cultureless and barbaric due to its oh-so-unacademic trader ways. Fair or not, its isolation from the rest of China by its mountainous topography has forced the Cantonese to rely on their own pragmatism and innovation for survival, and eventually made their homeland one of the wealthiest regions in China. The Cantonese have always looked to the sea for their livelihood: it was here the ancient Maritime Silk Road had its beginnings and here that foreign merchants first made contact with China. Guǎngdōng’s exposure to the outside world resulted in liberal ideas, especially during the monarchal era. It is no surprise, then, that Guǎngdōng was the birthplace of reform and revolution, eventually guiding the fate of modern China. Today’s Guǎngdōng is a paradise for worshippers of Mammon. With three Special Economic Zones and trade links with Hong Kong set up under Deng Xiaoping in the 1980s, economic activity in the province took off like wildfire and hasn’t slowed down yet, although it no longer monopolises the ‘economic engine’ moniker. Eavesdrop on an average conversation in Guǎngdōng and it always comes back to one thing: food. Cantonese cuisine is known for its countless ingredients, thousands of different sauces and diversity in cooking. Fried, steamed, baked, deep-fried, stewed – they like it all. And, of course, Guǎngdōng is home to the ever-popular dim sum, found in abundance province-wide.
HIGHLIGHTS Sample the world-renowned Cantonese
cuisine prepared at its best in Guǎngzhōu (p591) Explore the Unesco-crowned watchtowers
Nanling National Park
in Kāipíng (p597), an incredible residentialcum-defensive masterpiece
F‰ilái & F‰ixiá Gu†ngzhŸu
Retreat with your hiking boots to the
verdant forests and waterfalls of Nanling National Park (p603)
GUǍNGDŌNG
Join the Chinese pilgrimage to the revolu-
tionary Whampoa Military Academy (p589) to hone your grasp of revolution-era history Cruise down the gorge on the Běijiāng River
and journey to the secluded temples of Fēilái (p602) and Fēixiá (p602) POPULATION: 93 MILLION
Kƒipíng
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History
Climate Guǎngdōng’s moody subtropical climate means chilly, wet winters and long, humid
summers. The rainy season generally lasts from April/May to September and typhoons can be frequent from July/August to October. The best times to visit are in late autumn (October–November) and early spring (March–April).
Language The vast majority of the people of Guǎngdōng speak Cantonese, a dialect distinct from Mandarin. Though it enjoys much less exalted status than the national language, Cantonese is older than Mandarin and sounds much better for reading classical poetry.
Getting There & Away Guǎngdōng is well connected to the rest of China by bus, plane and train. The easiest entry/exit point to/from the province is Hong Kong via MTR (p556).
Getting Around Guǎngdōng is crisscrossed with a vast network of rail and road lines, making travelling around the province very easy. Trains run north through Shàoguǎn and onwards to Húnán province, east to Shàntóu and Fújiàn province, and west through Zhàoqìng to Guǎngxī province. Hydrofoils also run between the Pearl River delta region and Hong Kong. Frequent buses run to all these locations and more, but are less comfortable than trains. For real speed, there are flights between all major cities in the region.
GUǍNGZHŌU 广州
%020 / pop 10.5 million
Known to many in the West as Canton, Guǎngzhōu, the capital of Guǎngdōng, has been a busy trade hub in China since well before the heyday of cohong. Today it has become a sprawling city wrapped in a perpetual haze of pink smog and flashing neon lights. However, not long ago the city began to ameliorate the worst of its rampant urbanisation with a makeover that has resulted in a clean, modern metro system, tougher traffic law enforcement, and greener roadsides, gardens and parks to add splashes of colour to the contemporary grey landscape. The city remains as chaotic as ever, but you’ll find it unique among China’s metropolises. It just takes some time to grow on you. Many of the elegant churches and villas in the former foreign enclave of
GUǍNGDŌNG
Guǎngdōng has had contact with the outside world for over a millennium. Among the first outsiders to make their way here were the Romans, who appeared as early as the 2nd century AD. By the Tang dynasty (AD 618– 907), Arab merchants were visiting regularly and a sizeable trade with the Middle East and Southeast Asia had developed. The first Europeans to settle here were the Portuguese in 1557. They were followed by the Jesuits in 1582, who established themselves at Zhàoqìng, west of Guǎngzhōu. The British came along in the 17th century and by 1685 merchant ships from the East India Company were calling at Guǎngzhōu. In 1757 an imperial edict gave the cohong, a local merchants’ guild, a monopoly on China’s trade with foreigners, who were restricted to Shamian Island. Trade remained in China’s favour until 1773, when the British shifted the balance by unloading 1000 chests of Bengal opium at Guǎngzhōu. Addiction swept China like wildfire, eventually leading to the Opium Wars (see the boxed text, p607). In the 19th century, Guǎngdōng was a hotbed of reform and revolt. The Taiping Rebellion (1856–64), which saw Hong Xiuquan, who claimed to be the younger brother of Jesus Christ, try to overthrow the dynasty and establish his own ‘Kingdom of Heavenly Peace’, was crushed with the help of foreign powers. Thereafter, Guǎngdōng became a base for political elites to sow revolutionary ideas. Among these elites were distinguished politicians like Kang Youwei, Liang Qichao and Sun Yatsen, who was born in Cuìhēng village and later became the first president of the Republic of China. Twentieth-century Guǎngdōng saw its share of hardships and successes, being the headquarters of both the Nationalist and Communist Parties and enduring untold suffering during the Cultural Revolution. After 1978, with Deng Xiaoping’s ‘open door’ economic policy, Guǎngdōng became the first province to experience capitalism, with Shēnzhèn, Zhūhǎi and Shàntóu set up as Special Economic Zones. Guǎngdōng’s continued economic success has made it a leading export centre for consumer goods.
G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • G u ǎ n g z h ō u 581
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GUǍNGDŌNG
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582 G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G lonelyplanet.com
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Shamian Island have been restored, and some lovely old residences are hidden among Guǎngzhōu’s back lanes. More importantly, as home to a series of uprisings and revolutions that changed the Middle Kingdom forever, Guǎngzhōu’s revolution-related sights unveil a vital part of China’s modern history, eagerly awaiting all political disciples. Food is the centerpiece of any Cantonese conversation, and it’s here in Guǎngzhōu you’ll try Cantonese cuisine cooked at its very best. The city boasts the largest number of restaurants per capita in China; you are guaranteed not to leave this city hungry.
History
Central Guǎngzhōu is bounded by semicircular Huanshi Lu, literally ‘circle-city road’, to the north and the Pearl River (Zhū Jiāng) to the south. A larger ring road – the Huancheng Expressway – defines the roughly oval-shaped greater metropolitan area. MAPS
Good maps of Guǎngzhōu in both English and Chinese can be found at news stands. Bookshops (below) also have a variety of maps for sale.
Information BOOKSHOPS
Joint Publishing (Sānlián Shūdiàn; %8387 2393; Shop 201a, 2nd fl, Peace World Plaza, Huanshi Donglu; h10am-9.30pm) A good selecton of non-Chinese books and magazines. Newpage (Wàiwén Shūdiàn; %3886 4208; 4th fl, Guangzhou Book Centre, 123 Tianhe Lu; h9.30am9.30pm) It has pricey imported English magazines, novels and travel guidebooks. INTERNET ACCESS 网吧
The small lanes off Yanjiang Xilu have some hole-in-the-wall cafes, most charging Y4 per hour. Hotel business centres offer a wide range of internet services but can be expensive. All Starbucks in Guǎngzhōu provide free wi-fi. INTERNET RESOURCES
www.lifeofguangzhou.com A yellow pages for visitors and expats in Guǎngzhōu. MEDICAL SERVICES
Can-Am International Medical Centre (Jiāměi Guójì Yīliáo Zhōngxīn; %8387 9057; 5th fl, Garden Tower, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu) Has English-speaking doctors on staff but it’s necessary to call first. Guǎngzhōu Hospital of Traditional Chinese Medicine (Guǎngzhōu Zhōngyīyuàn; %8188 6504; 16 Zhuji Lu) Offers acupuncture, herbal medicine and other traditional Chinese remedies. Guǎngzhōu No 1 People’s Hospital (Guǎngzhōu Dìyī Rénmín Yīyuàn; 1 Panfu Lu) Has a medical clinic for foreigners on the 1st floor of the complex. MONEY
Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng; %8334 0998; 698 Renmin Beilu; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
GUǍNGDŌNG
Legend has it that Guǎngzhōu was founded by five immortals who descended from the sky on rams and saved the city from starvation. Thus the city earned the nickname Goat City (Yáng Chéng). Goats or no goats, the first settlement on the site of the presentday city dates back to 214 BC. The history of Guǎngzhōu is dominated by trade and revolution. Since around the Tang dynasty (AD 618–907), it was China’s most important southern port and was the starting point for the Maritime Silk Road, an important route for shipping silk and other goods to the West. It was a trading post for the Portuguese in the 16th century, and for the British in the 17th century. The city was a stronghold of the republican forces after the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911. Sun Yatsen led the Kuomintang (KMT; Nationalist Party) in Guǎngzhōu in the early 1920s to mount campaigns against the northern warlords. Guǎngzhōu was also later a centre of activity for the fledgling Communist Party, and Mao Zedong and other prominent communist leaders were based here in 1925–26. Valery M Garrett’s Heaven is High and the Emperor Far Away: Merchants and Mandarins in Old Canton provides a vivid historical overview of this often neglected but significant city. Since liberation in 1949, Guǎngzhōu’s only mission has been to make money. Even when China effectively cut itself off from the rest of the world after liberation, what was then called the Canton Trade Fair was the only forum in which China did business with the West. Guǎngzhōu remains a vital import-export centre.
Orientation
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GU‡NGZH±U
To B›ij¸ng (2474km)
A
To Báiyún Shƒn (13km); Mingchun Valley Aviary (15km); Móx¸ng L¨ng (15km); Baiyun International Airport (32km)
B
C
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35
24
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57 To Fangcun Passenger Station (2.9km); PíngzhŸu (20km)
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66
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ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ lonelyplanet.com
G U Ǎ N G Z H Ō U 585
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Shamian Island
68
Shamian Dajie
18
42
51
46
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39
Shamian Yijie
55
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Shamian Beijie 40 13
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Ersha Island 64
5
586 G U Ǎ N G Z H Ō U • • G u ǎ n g z h ō u
INFORMATION American Express Guangzhou 㕢䖤䗮ᑓᎲ............................(see 38) Bank of China Ё䫊㸠 .................. 1 C5 Bank of China Ё䫊㸠 .................. 2 C3 Bank of China Ё䫊㸠 .............(see 38) British Consulate 㣅乚џ佚................................... (see 6) Can-Am International Medical Centre ࡴ㕢䰙ए⭫Ёᖗ ...... (see 9) Canadian Consulate ࡴᣓ乚џ佚................................. 3 C3 China Telecom Ё⬉ֵ ................ 4 C3 China Travel Service Guangzhou ᑓᎲЁᮙ㸠⼒ ............................ 5 C5 Danish Consulate Ѝ呺乚џ佚................................... (see 3) Dutch Consulate 㥋݄乚џ佚................................... (see 6) French Consulate ⊩乚џ佚.......................................6 E3 German Consulate ᖋ乚џ佚.................................(see 38) Guangzhou Hospital of Traditional Chinese Medicine ᑓᎲЁए䰶...................................... 7 B5 Guangzhou No 1 People's Hospital ᑓᎲϔҎ⇥ए䰶 ....................... 8 C4 Japanese Consulate ᮹ᴀ乚џ佚.......................................9 E3 Joint Publishing ϝ㘨кᑫ............10 E3 Newpage ᭛кᑫ ....................... 11 H3 Post Office (Liuhua Post Office) 䚂ᬓᘏሔ (ᵹ⧎挽ዪ)......................................12 B2 Post Office 䚂ሔ............................... 13 G1 PSB ݀ᅝሔ.........................................14 C5 Thai Consulate ⋄乚џ佚 ......(see 37) US Consulate 㕢乚џ佚 ........... 15 H3
GUǍNGDŌNG
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Cathedral of the Sacred Heart ᅸᬭූ ........................................16 C5 Chen Clan Ancestral Hall 䰜ᆊ⼴ .............................................17 B4 Church of Our Lady of Lourdes Џᬭ䴆ᖋ↡ූ .................... 18 H1 Five Rams Statue Ѩ㕞ڣ..........19 C3 Guangdong Museum of Art ᑓϰ㕢ᴃ佚 ................................... 20 G6 Guangxiao Temple ܝᄱᇎ...........21 C4 Guangzhou Art Gallery ...............(see 32) Guangzhou City Museum ᑓᎲᏖम⠽佚.............................(see 32)
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Guangzhou Museum of Art ᑓᎲ㡎ᴃम⠽䰶...........................22 Mausoleum of the 72 Martyrs ϗकѠ⚜...............................23 Mausoleum of the Nanyue King फ䍞⥟ ........................................24 Mosque Dedicated to the Prophet ᗔᇎ .............................................25 Nanyue Water Gate (Metro Mall) फ䍞∈䯌䘫ഔ
E3 F3 C3 C4
(శᐟ⧉)......................................26 C4 Peasant Movement Institute ⇥ݰ䖤ࡼ䆆д᠔.......................... 27 D4 Shamian Traditional Chinese Medical Center ≭䴶ए佚....................................28 F1 Sun Yatsen Memorial Hall Ёቅ㑾ᗉූ....................................29 C4 Temple of the Six Banyan Trees ݁Ὡᇎ .............................................30 C4 Wanmu Study Hall ϛ㤝ූ ....................................... 31 D4 Zhenhai Tower 䬛⍋ὐ ..................32 C3 SLEEPING 7 Days Inn ...........................................33 F1 7 Days Inn ...........................................34 E4 Dong Fang Hotel ϰᮍᆒ佚..........35 C3 Elan Hotel ㉇݄㢅䜦ᑫ ..................36 B3 Garden Hotel 㢅ು䜦ᑫ .................37 E3 Guangdong International Hotel.................................................38 E3 Guangdong Victory Hotel (New Annexe) 㚰߽ᆒ佚(ᣂᭈ) ....... 39 G1 Guangdong Victory Hotel 㚰߽ᆒ佚 ....................................... 40 G1 Guangzhou City International Youth Hostel ᑓᎲ䰙䴦ᑈᮙ㟡........41 C2 Guangzhou Riverside International Youth Hostel ᑓᎲ∳⬨䰙䴦ᑈᮙ㟡..........(see 57) Guangzhou Youth Hostel ᑓϰ吙╁ᆒ佚............................... 42 G2 Hotel Landmark Canton ढॺ䜦ᑫ.................................. (see 5) Lilac International Suites ᑓᎲ㦅Фৃ䰙݀ᆧ䜦ᑫ....... 43 H2 Westin Guangzhou ᑓᎲ䁝࿕ᮃ∔䜦ᑫ ................ 44 H3 White Cloud Hotel ⱑѥᆒ佚 .......45 E3 White Swan Hotel ⱑ吙ᆒ佚 ...46 F2
Bingsheng Restaurant ⚇㚰⍋剰䜦ᆊ..............................48 E6 Chuānguó Yǎnyì ᎱⓨН.......... 49 H3 Kohinoor 䞥⨲味............................. 50 D3 La Seine 䌯㒇⊇⊩令ख़..........(see 64) Lucy's 䴆ϱ䜦৻令ख़..................... 51 G2 Nánxìn फֵ...................................... 52 A5 Panxi Restaurant ⋂⑾䜦ᆊ ......... 53 A5 Tao Tao Ju Restaurant 䱊䱊ሙ ............................................ 54 A5 Thai Zhen Cow & Bridge ⋄⦡⠯ḹ ...................................... 55 G1 Wǔzhànjì ӡ䆄............................. 56 A4 DRINKING Baietan Bar Street ⱑ吙╁䜦৻㸫.............................. 57 A6 C Union (Chéngshì Huì) ୰ぱ(ၔᏒળ)............................. 58 G3 Hohoya................................................59 E4 Overseas Chinese Village ..............60 E3 Paddy Field ........................................61 E4 Qba ....................................................(see 44) Wilber's................................................62 F4 ENTERTAINMENT Velvet ...................................................63 E3 Xinghai Concert Hall ᯳⍋䷇Фख़....................................64 F6 SHOPPING Computer Markets ⬉㛥ජ .......... 65 H3
TRANSPORT China Southern Airlines Ёफᮍ㟾ぎ...............................66 C2 Citic Plaza Ёֵᑓഎ ...................... 67 H3 Ferries to Bai'etan Bar Street এⱑ吙╁䜦৻㸫ⱘ⏵㠍.............68 F2 Guangdong Long-Distance Bus Station ᑓϰⳕ≑䔺ᅶ䖤キ .....................69 B2 Guangfo Bus Station (Buses to Fóshān) ᑓԯ≑䔺キ.................. 70 A4 Guangzhou Dongzhan Coach Station ᑓᎲϰキᅶ䖤キ ......................... 71 H2 Japan Airlines ᮹ᴀ㟾ぎ ............... (see 3) Liuhua Bus Station ⌕㢅䔺キ ........................................72 B2 Malaysia Airlines............................(see 37) Singapore Airlines .......................... 73 H3 Thai Airways International.........(see 37) United Airlines ...............................(see 37) EATING 1920 Restaurant & Bar ....................47 C5 Vietnam Airlines ............................(see 37)
Most branches change travellers cheques. There’s another branch at Guangdong International Hotel (ground floor, Main Tower, 339 Huanshi Donglu). American Express Guangzhou (Měiguó Yùntōng Guǎngzhōu; %8331 1611; fax 8331 1616; room 806, 8th fl, Main Tower, Guangdong International Hotel, 339 Huanshi Donglu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Can cash and sell Amex travellers cheques.
POST
Post office (yóujú; Huanshi Xilu; h8am-8pm) Conveniently located next to the train station. PUBLIC SECURITY BUREAU
PSB (Gōng’ānjú; %8311 5800/5808; 155 Jean Annul; h8-11.30am & 2.30-5pm) Helps with all ‘aliens’ needs. Between Dade Lu and Darin Lu.
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TELEPHONE
YUEXIU PARK 越秀公园
China Telecom (Zhōngguó Diànxìn; %1000; 196
This vast urban park (Yuèxiù Gōngyuán; 13 Jiefang Beilu; admission Y5; h6am-9pm) encompasses over 93 hectares of gardens, shaded wood paths, historical monuments and museums. Within, you’ll find Guǎngzhōu’s Five Rams Statue (Wǔyáng Shíxìang), a statue of the five immortals attributed to Guǎngzhōu’s founding. On top of a hill in the centre of the park is the red-walled, five-storey Zhenhai Tower (Zhènhǎi Lóu), built in 1380. Later incorporated into Guǎngzhōu’s city wall, it was used as a watchtower to keep out the pirates who once pillaged China’s coastal cities. Now the tower stands alone, the city walls long since removed. There are sweeping views of Guǎngzhōu from the top storey. In 1928 the tower was rebuilt to house the Guangzhou City Museum (Guǎngzhōushì Bówùguǎn; %8355 0627; admission Y10; h9am-5.30pm), which has an excellent collection of exhibits that trace the history of Guǎngzhōu from the Neolithic period. On the east side of the tower is the Guangzhou Art Gallery (Guǎngzhōu Měishùguǎn). Apart from the Cantonese embroidery and carved ivory decorations, it also has displays outlining Guǎngzhōu’s trading history with the West. Take metro line 2, Yuèxiù Gōngyuán station, or bus 5, 10, 33, 63, 122 or 244 to get here.
Huanshi Xilu; h8am-6pm) The main branch is opposite the train station on the eastern side of Renmin Beilu. TRAVEL AGENCIES
Most hotels offer travel services that, for a small charge, can help you book tickets and tours. China Travel Service (CTS; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; %8333 6888; 8 Qiaoguang Lu; h8.30am-6pm MonFri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Located next to Hotel Landmark Canton, it offers various tours and books tickets.
Sights & Activities MAUSOLEUM OF THE NANYUE KING 南越王墓
Discovered accidentally in 1983 by workers excavating for a shopping plaza, this superb mausoleum (Nányuèwáng Mù; %8666 4920; 867 Jiefang Beilu; admission Y12, audioguide Y10; h9am5.30pm) from the 2000-year-old Nanyue
CHEN CLAN ANCESTRAL HALL 陈家祠
This enormous compound (Chénjiā Cí; %8181 4559; 34 Enlongji Lu; admission Y10; h8.30am-5.30pm) is an ancestral shrine, a Confucian school and a ‘chamber of commerce’ for the Chen clan. It was built in 1894 by the residents of 72 villages in Guǎngdōng, where the Chen lineage is the predominant family. The complex encompasses 19 buildings of the traditional Lingnan style (southern Chinese style, in contrast with northern Chinese traditions). All buildings contain exquisite carvings, statuary and paintings and are decorated with ornate scrollwork throughout. The scenes depict stories from Chinese literature and folklore. Take metro line 1 to Chénjiācí station, or bus 85 or 104. TEMPLE OF THE SIX BANYAN TREES 六榕寺
This Buddhist temple (Liùróng Sì; 87-89 Liurong Lu; admission Y15; h8am-5pm) was built in AD 537 to enshrine Buddhist relics brought over from India. The relics were placed in the octagonal Decorated Pagoda (Huā Tǎ), which appears
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Kingdom has been turned into one of China’s best museums, making it a must on any itinerary. The mausoleum houses the tomb of Zhao Mo, second king of Nanyue and grandson of the fabled Qin general Zhao Tuo, whom the emperor sent to the south in 214 BC to quell unrest. Zhao Tuo established a sovereign state called the Nanyue Kingdom, with Guǎngzhōu as its capital. Upon the establishment of the Han dynasty in 206 BC, Zhao Tuo declared himself king and was grudgingly recognised by the Han. His grandson Zhao Mo succeeded him, but ruled unsuccessfully. Shortly after Zhao Mo’s death, the Han plundered the kingdom in 111 BC, claiming the territory as their own. On display in the museum are Zhao Mo’s burial suit, made of thousands of tiny jade tiles – jade was thought to preserve the body and make one immortal – gold jewellery and trinkets, and other beautiful artefacts found at the tomb site. The English audioguide is recommended. Also related to the history of Nanyue Kingdom are the recently excavated, surprisingly well-preserved remnants of a Nanyueera water gate (Nányuèguó Shuǐzhá; basement, Metro Mall, Huifu Donglu; hnoon-6pm) in the basement of a shopping mall. A tiny museum there has excellent displays on the history of combating water woes in China.
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from the outside to contain only nine storeys but actually contains 17. The temple was given its current name by the exiled poet Su Dongpo in 1099, who commemorated the banyan trees in the courtyard with a poem. The banyan trees are long gone but you can see the characters (liùróng) he wrote hanging above the temple’s gateway. To get here, take bus 56. GUANGXIAO TEMPLE 光孝禅寺
The ‘Bright Filial Piety Temple’ (Guāngxiào Chánsì; 109 Jinghui Lu; admission Y5; h6am-5pm), about 400m west of the Temple of the Six Banyan Trees, is the oldest temple in Guǎngzhōu, dating back to the 4th century. By the Tang dynasty, it was well established as a centre of Buddhist learning in southern China. Many prominent monks came to teach here, including Bodhidarma, the founder of Zen Buddhism. Most of the current buildings date from the 19th century. The most impressive building is the main hall, with its double eaves. Inside is a 10m-high statue of the Buddha. At the back of the hall sits an impressive statue of Guanyin, Goddess of Mercy. Take metro line 1 to Xīmén Kǒu station. MOSQUE DEDICATED TO THE PROPHET 怀圣寺
The original building on the site of this mosque (Huáishèng Sì; %8333 3593; 56 Guangta Lu) is thought to have been established in AD 627 by Abu Waqas, one of the Prophet Mohammed’s uncles, making it the first of its kind in China. The present mosque dates from the Qing dynasty. The minaret is called ‘Smooth Minaret’ (Guāng Tǎ) because of its smooth, unadorned appearance. Take metro line 1 to Xīmén Kǒu station, or bus 5.
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ORCHID GARDEN 兰园
Across from Yuexiu Park on Jiefang Beilu is this charming garden (Lán Yuán; admission Y8; h8am5pm) famous for its blossoming orchids. With its winding paths, arched stone bridges and willow-fringed ponds, you may forget you’re even in Guǎngzhōu. The western edge of the park sits on the site an old Muslim cemetery, supposedly the burial site of Abu Waqas, the uncle of the Prophet, who is credited with bringing Islam to China. His tomb is in a plain stone building oriented towards Mecca. The cemetery is closed to non-Muslims.
lonelyplanet.com CATHEDRAL OF THE SACRED HEART 石室教堂
The impressive twin-spired Roman Catholic cathedral (Shíshì Jiàotáng; Yide Xilu), built between 1863 and 1888, was designed by a French architect in the neo-Gothic style and built entirely of granite. The massive towers reach a height of 48m. The site of the church originally housed the office of the governor of Guǎngdōng and Guǎngxī until it was completely destroyed during the second Opium War. The site was then leased to the French, followed by the construction of the cathedral. Take bus 8, 82 or 86, or metro line 2 to Haizhu Sq. SHAMIAN ISLAND 沙面岛
The leafy oasis of Shamian Island (Shāmiàn Dǎo), which was acquired as a foreign concession in 1859 after the two Opium Wars, is a peaceful respite from the city. Back in the 19th century, Shamian (Sand Surface Island) was little more than a sandbank when the British and French were granted permission to set up their warehouses here. The tear-shaped sandbank was connected to the mainland by several bridges, with staunch iron gates that prohibited any Chinese from entering the island. Major renovation has restored some of the buildings to their original appearance, transforming them into chic restaurants and hotels. Traffic is restricted on the island. Shamian Dajie, the main boulevard, is a gentle stretch of gardens, trees, and old men playing Chinese checkers. The Roman Catholic Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (Tiānzhǔjiào Lòushèngmǔ Táng; Shamian Dajie; h8am-6pm), built by the French in 1892, is on the eastern end of the thoroughfare. Shamian Traditional Chinese Medical Center (Shāmiàn Guóyīguǎn; %8121 8383; 85-87 Shamian Beijie; h11am-2am), at the western end of the island,
is recommended by travellers for its massage (Y68 per hour). Take metro line 1 to Huángshā station. REVOLUTIONARY SIGHTS
Sun Yatsen Memorial Hall (Zhōngshān Jìniàn Táng; grounds free, memorial Y10; h8am-5pm) was built between 1929 and 1931 to commemorate the man whom both the Kuomintang and the Communist Party consider the father of modern China. Photos depicting Sun’s life are on display. Do not expect much here as the exhibition is rather dull.
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Much more interesting is Whampoa Military Academy (黄埔军校 ; Huángpǔ Jūnxiào; %8820 3564; admission free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) on quiet Changzhou Island (长洲岛; Chángzhōu Dǎo). Established in 1924 by the Kuomintang and Chiang Kaishek, appointed commandant by Sun Yatsen, the academy trained a number of significant military elites for both the Kuomintang and the Communist Party who went on to fight in many subsequent conflicts and civil wars. It was destroyed by the Japanese in 1938 and the present structure was restored in 1965. Today the complex houses a museum dedicated to the revolutionary history of modern China. Take metro line 2 to Chìgǎng station, then exit C1. Then board bus 262 on Xingang Zhonglu to Xīnzhōu pier (新洲码头; Xīnzhōu Mǎtou). Ferries (Y1.50) to the academy depart every 40 minutes past the hour from 6.40am to 8.40pm. If you miss the ferry, private boats can take you there. Expect to pay Y15 for the whole thing. Taking photos on the ferry is strictly prohibited, as it passes through a naval base. The Peasant Movement Institute (Nóngmín Yùndòng Jiǎngxísuǒ; %8333 3936; 42 Zhongshan Silu; admission free; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) was established
1898, but ended with a coup d’état. After liberation, the hall housed a factory, and then was occupied by 40 households until its recent restoration. It should be open to the public by press time. ART MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
The Guangzhou Museum of Art (广州艺术博物 院; Guǎngzhōu Yìshù Bówùyuàn; %8365 9337; 3 Luhu Lu; admission Y20; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun) has an extensive collection of works,
ranging from ancient to contemporary Chinese art and sculpture. Other interesting exhibits include a fantastic room on the top floor with displays of rare Tibetan tapestries. Another highlight is the room devoted to Liao Bingxiong, a political cartoonist of the 20th century. Take bus 10 or 63. The Guangdong Museum of Art (广东美术馆; Guǎngdōng Měishùguǎn; %8735 1468; www.gdmoa.org; 38 Yanyu Lu; admission Y15; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is at the
southern end of Ersha Island (Èrshā Dǎo). Founded in 1997, the museum often shows exhibits of contemporary Chinese artists and has been the site of the Guangzhou Triennale, first held in 2003. Take bus 12, 18 or 89. PEARL RIVER CRUISES 珠江游览船
The northern bank of Pearl River is an interesting area, filled with people, markets and dilapidated buildings. It’s a wonderful place to stroll on a warm summer’s evening. The Guangzhou Star Cruises Company (%8333 2222) has 14 evening cruises on the Pearl River (Y50 to Y128, 1½ hours) between 6.30pm and 10pm. Boats leave from the Tianzi Pier (Tiānzì Mǎtou; Beijing Lu), just east of Haizhu Bridge (Hǎizhū Qiáo; catch metro line 2 from Hǎizhū Guǎngchǎng station), and head down the river as far as Ersha Island (Èrshā Dǎo) before turning back. Just east of Shamian Island is Xidi Pier (Xīdī Mǎtou; Yanjiang Xilu), where the Guangzhou Passenger Ship Company (%8101 3912) has four evening cruises (Y23 to Y38, 1½ hours) from 7.30pm to 9.50pm.
Festivals & Events The 15-day Guangzhou Trade Fair (Zhōngguó Chūkǒu Shāngpǐn Jiāoyì Huì; %2608 8888; www.cantonfair .org.cn), formally known as the China Import
and Export Fair, has been held twice yearly, usually in April and October, since 1957. Apart from the Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) in late January/early February,
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in 1924 by the Communist Party at the site of a former Confucian temple. Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai both taught here, before the school closed in 1926. You can see Mao Zedong’s re-created personal quarters and even his bed. Take metro line 1 to Nóngjiǎng Suǒ station. East of the Institute on Zhongshan Sanlu is the Memorial Garden to the Martyrs (Lièshì Língyuán; admission Y3; h8am-7pm), dedicated to those killed on 13 December 1927 under the orders of Chiang Kaishek. The massacre occurred when a small group of workers, led by the Communist Party, were gunned down by Kuomintang forces. In total, over 5000 lives were lost. Not strictly revolutionary, but the Wanmu Study Hall (Wànmù Cǎotáng; 3 Changxingli, Zhongshan Xilu; admission free; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun), hidden in an alley east of Wende Lu, was the cradle of change, stimulating political activists to go from reform to revolution in the 19th century. Prominent scholar Kan Youwei sowed the seeds for changing the government from absolute monarchy to constitutional monarchy in this ‘Thousand Herbs Study Hall’ between 1891 and 1898. He and his student Liang Qichao launched the ‘100 Days Reforms’ in
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this is the biggest event in Guǎngzhōu. Starting from 2008, the fair is held in complexes on Pazhou Island (Pázhōu) south of the river.
Sleeping Guǎngzhōu hotels are expensive. Prices rise even higher during the Guangzhou Trade Fair in the spring and autumn. Despite the horror of posted rates, most hotels offer 50% discounts, depending on the season. Top-end (and some midrange) places add a 15% service charge to the quoted room rate. Most hotels offer in-room broadband internet access. YUEXIU & TIANHE DISTRICTS
Guangzhou City International Youth Hostel (Guǎngzhōu Guójì Qīngnián Lǚguǎn; %8666 6889, ext 3812; fax 8667 9787; 179 Huanshi Xilu; 环市西路179号; dm Y60, s Y80-118, d Y148-178; i) Stay at this rock-bottom cheapie
only if you have an early train to catch. This Hostelling International–affiliated property is inside the chaotic Baiyun City Hotel. Rooms are grubby and some even windowless. 7 Days Inn (Qītiān Liánsuǒ Jiǔdiàn;%8364 4488; fax 8364 4477; 32 Huale Lu; 华乐路32号; r Y147-228; ai) Behind the Garden Hotel, this chain hotel is the cheapest (but very decent) option amid the five-star enclave in Yuexiu district. Elan Hotel (Mǐlán Huā Jiǔdiàn; %8622 1788; www .hotel-elan.com; 32 Zhanqian Heng Lu; 站前横路32号; d Y288-588; ai) Immaculate contemporarystyle rooms with a European ambience. There’s a computer for guest use in the lobby and all suites contain wi-fi. Rooms can be discounted up to 40%. Staff speak English. Lilac International Suites (Láilèkě Guójìgōngyù
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Jiǔdiàn; %6131 6888; www.lilacsuites.com; 1 Taisheng Lu; 泰盛路1号; s & d Y580, ste from Y780; a) Just a stone’s
throw west of Guǎngzhōu east train station, this is a small, stylish hotel with uncluttered, chic rooms. You should be able to get a double room for around Y258, which is very good value. White Cloud Hotel (Báiyún Bīnguǎn; %8333 3998; www.baiyun-hotel.com; 367 Huanshi Donglu; 环市东路 367号; s & d Y938; ai) Rooms at this hotel are decent, though nothing to jump for joy about. With over a dozen restaurants, you certainly won’t go hungry. Dong Fang Hotel (Dōngfāng Bīnguǎn; %8666 9900; www.dongfanghotel-gz.com; 120 Liuhua Lu; 流花路 120号; r from Y800; ai) This five-star luxury hotel has everything it takes to make guests happy. There are more than 880 rooms and
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five restaurants to choose from, and discounts of up to 60% are available. Westin Guangzhou (Guǎngzhōu Tiānyù Wēisītīng Jiǔdiàn; %2886 6868; www.starwoodhotels.com; 6 Linhe Zhonglu; 林和中路6号; s & d from Y1260, ste from Y2076; ais) The luxurious Westin is the best
place to stay in Tiānhé, if not in Guǎngzhōu. Staff are very welcoming and efficient, rooms are spacious and sparkling, and the location near the east train station and Citic Plaza (where in-town airport check-in is available) is terrific. The bar (p592) here is also highly recommended. Garden Hotel (Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn; %8333 8989; www .thegardenhotel.com.cn; 368 Huanshi Donglu; 环市东路 368号; s & d US$160-260, ste from US$450; ais) This lavish five-star hotel claims to have the largest and grandest lobby in all of Asia – it even has its own waterfall (though the waterfall at the White Swan is better). Rooms are elegant and the service is impeccable. SHAMIAN ISLAND & RIVERFRONT
Shamian Island is by far the quietest and most attractive area to stay in Guǎngzhōu. The riverfront area, with its busy streets and overpasses, is noisier but less expensive. Guangzhou Youth Hostel (Guǎngdōng Étán Bīnguǎn; %8121 8606; fax 8121 8298; 2 Shamian Sijie; 沙面四街 2号; dm Y50, s & d Y150-300; i) For the cheapest beds on Shamian Island, head to this affable hostel. This place won’t win any awards for decor, but rooms are serviceable. 7 Days Inn (Qītiān Liánsuǒ Jiǔdiàn; %8125 9588; fax 8125 9577; 3 Huangsha Dadao; 黄沙大道3号; d Y137-218; a) Again, this recently opened chain hotel has nothing fancy, but for a cheap and clean room with adequate facilities beside the river, this is a reliable option. Guangdong Victory Hotel (Shènglì Bīnguǎn; %8121 6688; www.vhotel.com; 53 & 54 Shamian Beijie; 沙面北 街53 & 54号; ai) There are two branches of the Victory Hotel on Shamian Island: an older one at 54 Shamian Beijie (enter from 10 Shamian Sijie), with adequate rooms between Y300 and Y420; and a newer wing at 53 Shamian Beijie, with better-value doubles costing between Y480 and Y800. Hotel Landmark Canton (Huáxià Dàjiǔdiàn; %8335 5988; www.hotel-landmark.com.cn; 5 Qiaoguang Lu; 侨 光路5号; s & d Y1200-1720, ste from Y3100; ai) Hefty discounts are often available here, making the four-star Landmark a very good-value midrange option at the waterfront. Rooms are well maintained and most
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buses to/from Hong Kong/Macau stop here. You should be able to get a room for Y500 on weekdays. White Swan Hotel (Báitiān’é Bīnguǎn; %8188 6968; www.whiteswanhotel.com; 1 Shamian Nanjie; 沙面南街 1号; s & d Y1300-1500, ste from Y3100; ai) This 843-room property is considered the most prestigious of Guǎngzhōu’s hotels, complete with a waterfall in the lobby and fish ponds. It has an excellent range of rooms and outlets (a dozen restaurants and bars), all business facilities and a shopping arcade. FANGCUN DISTRICT
Fāngcūn is a bit out of the way, but the gigantic tea market and decent nightlife options make staying here not too remote. Guangzhou Riverside International Youth Hostel (Guǎngzhōu Jiāngpàn Guójì Qīngnián Lǚguǎn; %2239 2500; fax 2239 2548; 15 Changdi Lu; 长堤路15号; dm Y50, s Y108-138, d Y148-198, ste Y268; i) This new HI-
affiliated hostel is an emerging backpacker hub in Guǎngzhōu with spotless rooms. Take metro line 1 to Fāngcūn station, and then exit B. Ferries also depart frequently from Huángshā pier on Shamian Island to Fāngcūn pier right in front of the hostel.
Eating
the Xia Jiulu/Shang Jiulu shopping quarter. Try the shuāngpínǎi (双皮奶; steamed egg whites with milk). Chuānguó Yǎnyì (%3887 9878; Nanfang Securities Bldg, 140-148 Tiyu Donglu; dishes from Y20; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm) If you like your food hot, this restau-
rant will fry your tastebuds with its authentic Sìchuān cuisine, served up with plenty of chillies and hot peppers. The fiery Sìchuān hotpot is the best in Guǎngzhōu. Lucy’s (Lùsī Jiǔbā Cāntīng; %8121 5106; 3 Shamian Nanjie; Y28-40; h11am-2am) For comfort food, head to this favourite on Shamian Island. Enjoy decent burgers, buffalo wings and beer for Y16 a pint (happy hour is 4pm to 6pm daily). Tao Tao Ju Restaurant (Táotáojū Jiǔjiā; %8139 6111; 20 Dishipu Lu; dishes from Y35; h6.45am-midnight)
The yum cha at this restaurant, housed in an academy dating back to the 17th century, is particularly famous, so it’s always packed. The menu is extensive – over 200 items! Specialities include the trademark táotáo jiāngcōng jī (陶陶姜葱鸡; ginger and onion chicken). 1920 Restaurant & Bar (Kāfēitīng; %8333 6156; 183 Yanjiang Xilu; mains from Y35, beer from Y30; h11am-2am)
This German restaurant on the riverfront has a well-deserved reputation among Guǎngzhōu’s expats. The patio is a nice place to enjoy an imported beer. The menu includes sausages, meatballs and even stuffed goose. Panxi Restaurant (Pānxī Jiǔjiā; %8172 1328; 151 Longjin Xilu; dishes from Y36; h7.30am-midnight) This half-century-old establishment was recently revamped to become an upmarket restaurant. Its majestic garden is as impressive as its dim sum and signature dishes like sauteéd clam and fish with vegetables. English menu available. Kohinoor (Jīnruìlín; %6122 1808; 3rd fl, 8 Lujing Lu; mains Y43-70; h9am-12.30am) Located beside Dōngyuè Jiǔdiàn, this Indian restaurant has a very seedy entrance, but once you get inside you’ll find chic design and ambience. It has extensive and excellent choices of pulao and kebab. oBingsheng Restaurant (Bǐngshèng Hǎixiān Jiǔjiā; %3428 6910; 33 Dongxiao Lu; dishes from Y48; h11am-midnight) A seafood expert, Bǐngshèng
has a handful of branches in Guǎngzhōu but the mammoth flagship beneath Haiyin Bridge remains the best. Its hǎilú cìshēn (海鲈剌身; sea bass sashimi with Shùndé flavour) and dòufuhuā zhēngxiègāo (豆腐花蒸蟹羔; bean curd with crab roe) are outstandingly tasty.
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Guǎngzhōu’s cuisine is justifiably legendary. Guǎngzhōu is especially famous for its dim sum, or yum cha as it’s called in these parts. You’ll find yum cha served in restaurants around the city. Apart from dim sum, Xīguān district has many tiny restaurants featuring some locally well-known Xīguān xiǎochī (snacks and dessert), where you can bump elbows with the locals. In addition to Cantonese cuisine, Guǎngzhōu has plenty of other restaurants serving a variety of regional Chinese dishes. A large expat population means that there are also many other types of Asian restaurants, and a fair share of good European restaurants. Wǔzhànjì (%8195 6313; cnr Longjin Zhonglu & Liwan Lu; dishes Y5-13; h6am-1am) Famous for its congee and chángfěn (steamed rice-flour rolls), this absolutely English-free food joint has been a locals’ favourite for breakfast or snacks since the 1900s. Try the signature yuānyāng chángfěn (鸳鸯肠粉; pork and beef roll). Nánxìn (%8138 9904; 47 Dishipu Lu; dessert: Y5-12, dishes Y8-15; h10am-midnight) A specialist in Xīguān xiǎochī, this busy restaurant is a very popular pit stop for Cantonese desserts near
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There’s no English menu, so try to grab a Chinese friend to communicate. Reservations are almost impossible; arrive before 7pm to snag a table. Thai Zhen Cow & Bridge (Tàizhēn Niú Qiáo; %8121 9988; 54 Shamian Beijie; mains Y58-78; h11am-11pm)
Though bizarrely named, this restaurant serves the best Thai food in Guǎngzhōu. The red and green curries are superb. The atmosphere is quite elegant, so put on a clean shirt. La Seine (Sàinàhé Fǎguó Cāntīng; %8735 2531; 33 Qingbo Lu; mains Y76-258; h11am-2.30pm & 5.30pmmidnight) It doesn’t get any more French than
this in Guǎngzhōu. For authentic nouvelle cuisine try this smart restaurant on the 1st floor of the Xinghai Concert Hall. The weekend brunch (Y78) attracts the well-heeled set.
Drinking CAFES
Cafes are sprouting up along Jianshe Liumalu, west of the Garden Hotel. Hohoya (% 8376 6677; 17 Jianshe Liumalu; coffee from Y10, sandwiches Y20, pastries from Y9; h10am-midnight), a
tiny cafe managed by two Korean sisters, is well recommended. The coffee is good and reasonably priced. Best are the homemade pastries and tasty sandwiches.
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BARS
Guǎngzhōu has a number of internationalstyle bars where, in addition to sinking chilled Tsingtao and imported beers, you can scoff pizza or burgers, rice or noodles. Wilber’s (%3761 1101; 62 Zhusigang Ermalu; h5pmmidnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Wilber’s is a gem hidden down an alley in a historical house – just finding it makes you feel like you’re a local. It has something for everyone: the patio is popular with ladies looking for a quiet natter, indoors is a gay favourite drinking den, and upstairs is a fine dining restaurant and a gallery. C Union (Xǐwō; % 3584 0144; Ground fl, Chéngshì Huì, 115 Shuiyin Lu; h7pm-2am) Live music is the principal attraction in this bohemian boozer, not its decor. It hosts a good mix of local bands, from R&B to reggae. It has a great vibe and is packed with a boisterous crowd around 11pm every night. Paddy Field (%8360 1379; Westin Hotel, 6 Linhe Zhonglu; h6.30pm-3am) If you want to forget you’re in China for a while, head to this famous (and pricey) Irish pub for an afterwork drink. It’s one of the expats’ favourite
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drinking haunts for top-notch beer, and it cranks up on Thursday for the salsa party. Another pub worth a crack is the classy Qba (% 2886 6868; Westin Hotel, 6 Linhe Zhonglu; h5pm-3am). It features live Cuban music on Saturday for a great atmosphere. Other watering holes include the bars at Baietan Bar Street (Bái’étán Jiǔbā; h7pm-2.30am) located along the Pearl River, next to the Riverside International Youth Hostel. The Overseas Chinese Village on Heping Lu and nearby Huanshi Donglu has a string of bars catering to foreigners and trendy locals.
Entertainment The free monthly entertainment guide That’s Guangzhou (www.thatsguangzhou.com) is an invaluable source of information for what’s on around town. It’s available at most of the major hotels and international-style bars and restaurants. The nightlife in Guǎngzhōu is growing fast, with new clubs and karaoke joints springing up everywhere. Venues change fast so check That’s Guangzhou for the latest info. Velvet (Sīróngbā; %8732 1139; ground fl, International Electronic Tower, 403 Huangshi Donglu; beer Y40, cocktails Y48; h7.30pm-3am) This is Guǎngzhōu’s most
famous club, popular with local and international DJs. With a full range of tunes to suit everybody, it’s one of the best bets for a good night out. Xinghai Concert Hall (Xīnghǎi Yīnyuè Tīng; %8735 2766; 33 Qingbo Lu) Home to the Guangzhou Symphony Orchestra (GSO), this is the city’s premier venue for classical music. It’s on Ersha Island and has two concert halls that are said to have perfect acoustics.
Shopping Guǎngzhōu is a terrific place for shopping, and almost each market or area has its speciality. Outside the major department stores, prices are reasonably cheap (especially compared to Hong Kong), and with the overwhelming variety of goods on the market, you can unearth some real treasures. Haizhu Square (Hǎizhū Guǎngchǎng) has always been a popular spot for discounted clothing and other merchandise. Nearby is one of Guǎngzhōu’s favourite shopping spots, Beijing Lu, a 300m pedestrian street crammed full of shops big and small selling virtually everything imaginable. It’s easily reachable from the Gongyuan Qian metro stop. It gets
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really crowded on the weekends, but that’s part of the fun. A pedestrian shopping street with a bit more character is Xia Jiulu/Shang Jiulu (Up Down Nine Street). It’s in one of the oldest parts of the city, where the buildings retain elements of both Western and Chinese architecture. It’s a good place to look for discounted clothing. If it’s antiques you’re after, there’s no better place to head than Xiguan Antique Street (Xīguān Gǔwán Chéng; Lizhiwan Lu) in the Xīguān area, with shops selling everything from ceramic teapots to Tibetan rugs. Even if you’re not interested in loading up your pack with ceramic vases, it’s still a wonderful place to wander and browse. Chinese-fine-art enthusiasts should not miss the less touristy but equally interesting Wende Lu, east of Beijing Lu. An array of shops and galleries abound along the road, selling calligraphy, paintings and antique books. Tea connoisseurs will not leave the tea market (Cháyè Shìchǎng) in Fāngcūn with empty hands. This is a sprawling market with tea shops/malls selling tea and teapots for block after block on Fangcun Dadao. Most target wholesale traders but retail is often possible. Those with more modern desires might want to head to the Tiānhé area, with its fashionable shopping plazas. Teem Plaza (Tiānhé Chéng Guǎngchǎng; 208 Tianhe Lu) and Grandview Shopping Mall (Zhèngjiā Guǎngchǎng; 228 Tianhe Lu) are two of Guǎngzhōu’s newest shopping malls. If you’re interested in electronics, make sure to investigate the computer markets at the east end of Tianhe Lu.
G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • G u ǎ n g z h ō u 593
International destinations served by China Southern include Amsterdam, Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles, Melbourne, Osaka, Paris, Penang, Singapore and Sydney. The international airport tax is Y90. Some foreign airlines with offices in Guǎngzhōu: Japan Airlines (%3877 3868; fax 3877 3967; Room 4601, Citic Plaza, 233 Tianhe Beilu) Malaysia Airlines (%8335 8828; fax 8335 8838; M04-05, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu) Singapore Airlines (%8755 6300; fax 8755 5518; Room 2701-04, Metro Plaza, 183-187 Tianhe Beilu) Thai Airways International (%8365 2333; fax 8365 2488; G3, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu) United Airlines (%8333 8989, ext 3165; G05, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu) Vietnam Airlines (%8386 7093, ext 10; M04, Attic, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu) BOAT
Guǎngzhōu is a major port on China’s southern coast but most ferry and catamaran services have been discontinued, victims of improved land transportation. However, there are still services to/from Hǎikǒu on Hainan Island (Hǎinán Dǎo). Ferries depart from the pier at Huángpǔ (%8227 9839), located some 32km southeast of Guǎngzhōu, at 3.30pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The trip takes 18 hours and the prices range from Y96 in 5th class to Y450 in 1st class. In the opposite direction, ferries leave Hǎikǒu’s Xiuying Harbour (%0898-6865 3315) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 4pm. Tickets are available from CTS (p587) and the travel desks at most top-end hotels. BUS
AIR
Guǎngzhōu has several long-distance bus stations with services to all parts of Guǎngdōng, southern Fújiàn, eastern Guǎngxī and even further afield. There are three useful stations clustered around the main train station. These are the Liuhua bus station (Liúhuā chēzhàn) across Huanshi Xilu in front of the train station, the Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station (Guǎngdōng shěng qìchē kèyùnzhàn; Huanshi Xilu) to the right and another long-distance bus station (Guǎngzhōu qìchē kèyùnzhàn) over the footbridge leading from the train station. All of these stations have buses to Shēnzhèn (Y60, two hours, every 12 minutes 6am to 11pm), Zhūhǎi (Y70, 2½ hours, every 15 minutes
The Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC; Zhōngguó Mínháng) is represented by China Southern Airlines (CZ; Zhōngguó Nánfāng Hángkōng; % 800 820 6666, 8612 0330; www.cs-air .com; 181 Huanshi Lu; h9am-6pm), arguably China’s
best-run airline. The office is southeast of the main train station. The ticketing office on the 2nd floor is open round the clock. For general flight information ring %95539. China Southern has four daily flights to Hong Kong (one way Y1410, 35 minutes). There are also flights to Shànghǎi (Y1280) and Běijīng (Y1700). The domestic airport tax is Y50.
GUǍNGDŌNG
Getting There & Away
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6.30am to 9pm) and Kāipíng (Y60, two hours, every 30 minutes). Buses for other destinations leaving mostly from the long-distance bus stations include services to Cháozhōu (Y160 to Y180, six hours), Fóshān (Y15, 45 minutes), Guìlín (sleeper Y170, 13 hours), Hǎikǒu (sleeper Y190 to Y260, 16 hours), Nánníng (sleeper Y180, 15 hours), Qīngyuǎn (Y30, 1½ hours), Shàntóu (Y150 to Y180, six hours), Sháoguān (Y65 to Y70, 3½ to four hours) and Zhàoqìng (Y45, 1½ hours). If the train station area is too anarchic for you, head to the clean and orderly Fangcun Passenger Station (Fāngcūn Kèyùnzhàn; Huadi Dadao) in Fāngcūn district, which is accessible by metro. You’ll find buses to the same destinations listed above, as well as one daily express bus to Wǔyí Shān (Y300, 15 to 20 hours) and Xiàmén (Y200, 10 hours) in Fújiàn, leaving at 2pm and 8.20pm, respectively. The new Guangzhou Dongzhan Coach Station (Guǎngzhōu dōngzhàn kèyùnzhàn; Linhe Xilu) beside Guǎngzhōu east train station is also good for destinations within Guǎngdōng, though departures are not as frequent as at the longdistance bus stations. The easiest way to get to Hong Kong is by the deluxe buses that ply the Guǎngzhōu– Shēnzhèn freeway in three hours. Most of the top-end hotels have tickets and they cost Y100 (Y250 to Hong Kong International Airport). Direct buses through Zhūhǎi to Macau (Y60, 2½ hours) leave from the Hotel Landmark Canton and Garden Hotel.
GUǍNGDŌNG
TRAIN
Guǎngzhōu’s main train station, which is useful for short-distance destinations such as Zhàoqìng (Y29, two hours) and Sháoguān (Y52, 2½ hours), is a chaotic and seething mass of humanity. To get there, catch metro line 2 to Guǎngzhōu Huǒchēzhàn station. Note that this train station will be moved to outlying Panyu in late 2009, and a light rail linking the new station and Zhūhǎi will be complete in 2010. The Guǎngzhōu east train station, on the other hand, which serves more far-flung destinations, is a model of efficiency. To get there, take metro line 1 to Guǎngzhōu Dōng Zhàn station. Bus 271 (Y2) goes between the Liuhua bus station (300m south of the train station) and the Guǎngzhōu east train station. Metro lines 1 and 3 run to the east train station.
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Travellers will find ticketing at the east station a fairly straightforward affair, with separate ticketing booths (h7.30am-9pm) for Hung Hom, in Hong Kong’s Kowloon (Y186, HK$190, 1¾ hours), and a dozen fast trains a day between 8.19am and 9.32pm. Bullet trains run between Guǎngzhōu and Shēnzhèn (Y80 to Y100, 52 minutes to 1¼ hours) frequently throughout the day from 6.06am to 10.45pm. Trains also head north from here to Shànghǎi (Y332, 17 hours) and Běijīng (Y402, 21½ hours), as well as destinations all over the country. For details on trains to Lhasa, see p927. Despite all the hassles at the main Guǎngzhōu train station, booking train tickets here is a lot easier than it used to be. There are two separate places to buy them at the station itself. A 24-hour ticketing office is in the hall to the left of the large clock as you face the station. Current, next-day and two-day advance tickets are sold in the white-and-silver building just east of the station, open from 5.30am to 10.30pm daily. CTS (p587), next to Hotel Landmark Canton, will book train tickets up to five days in advance for a service charge of about Y20.
Getting Around Greater Guǎngzhōu, as defined by the Huancheng Expressway, extends some 20km east to west and more than 10km north to south. Since most of the interesting sights are scattered throughout the city, seeing the place on foot is not exactly practical. The metro is the speediest and cleanest way to get around. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Guǎngzhōu’s Baiyun International Airport (Báiyún Guójì Fēijīchǎng) is 34km north of the city. There are airport shuttle buses (Y13 to Y32, one hour, every 15 to 30 minutes 7am to 10pm) leaving from a half-dozen locations around Guǎngzhōu, including the Guǎngzhōu east train station, and Citic Plaza (Zhōngxīn Guǎngchǎng) south of the east train station, where in-town check-in service should be available by press time. A taxi to/from the airport will cost about Y140. PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Guǎngzhōu has a large network of motor buses and electric trolley-buses (Y2 to Y5). Unfortunately the network is overstretched
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and the buses are usually very crowded and slow. At the time of writing, Guǎngzhōu had four metro lines in full service. Line 1 runs for 18.5km from Guǎngzhōu east train station in the northeast and across Pearl River in the southwest. It goes by many of the city’s major sights along Zhongshan Lu, and is also a convenient way to get to Shamian Island and Fāngcūn. Line 2 goes essentially north–south for 23km, from Pázhōu station in the south to Sānyuán Lǐ station in the northeast. It is good for the main train station, many of the sights around Yuexiu Park, the riverfront hotels and the Guangzhou Trade Fair at Pázhōu. Lines 1 and 2 intersect at one station: Gōngyuán Qián. Line 3 also goes north–south for 36km, from Pānyú Guǎngchǎng in the south and alternating at the north end between Guǎngzhōu east station and Tianhe Coach Terminal. It intersects at Tǐyù Xīlù with line 1 and at Kècūn with line 2. Line 4 begins at Wànshèngwéi, east of Pázhōu, and goes south to Jīnzhōu. It links the islands on the Pearl River to Pānyú district. More lines are in the works: line 5, linking the pier at Huángpǔ to the border with Fóshān via the main train station, should be complete by the end of 2009. Line 2 will further extend to the south, connecting with the new train station in Pānyú, and line 3 to the north to the airport. A separate metro line linking Guǎngzhōu to Fóshān is expected to be complete by 2010. Depending on the line, the metro runs from about 6.20am to just before 11pm. Fares are Y2 to Y8, depending on the number of stops you travel (eg Y5 for the 10 stops between the two train stations). A better deal for getting around is to buy a transit pass (yáng chéng tōng; 羊城通), which can be bought from kiosks inside the metro stations and post offices. Passes start at Y50 and require a Y30 deposit, which can be refunded if you keep your receipt. The pass can be used for all public transport, including the yellow taxis. Taxis are abundant on the streets of Guǎngzhōu but demand is great, particularly during the peak hours: from 8am to 9am, and at lunch and dinner. Most taxi drivers in Guǎngzhōu are migrant workers (ie they don’t
know the city well). If possible, try to flag down the rare yellow cabs, which are driven by local drivers. Taxis are equipped with meters, which are always used, and flag fall is Y7. There is an additional Y1 added on for a fuel surcharge. A trip from the main train station to Shamian Island should cost between Y15 and Y20; from Guǎngzhōu east train station to the island is Y40 to Y45.
AROUND GUǍNGZHŌU
The White Cloud Hills (白云山; Báiyún Shān; admission Y5), in the northern suburbs of Guǎngzhōu, are an adjunct of the Dayu Range (大庾岭; Dàyú Lǐng). In total there are more than 30 peaks, which were once dotted with temples and monasteries. It’s a good hike up to the top – or a leisurely walk down if you take the cable car (Y25) – and a refreshing escape from the polluted city below. Star Touching Peak (摩星 岭; Móxīng Lǐng), at 382m, is the highest point in the hills. Famous as a resort historically, the hills have been thematically restored to attract tourists and now boast a number of attractions, including the Mingchun Valley Aviary (鸣 春谷鸟园; Míngchūngǔ Niǎoyuán; %020-3722 9528; admission Y25; h8.30am-5pm), which features a wide variety of bird species. The hills are about 15km north of Guǎngzhōu. Bus 24 can take you from Zhongshan Wulu, just south of Rénmín Gōngyuán, to the cable car at the bottom of the hill near Luhu Park (Lùhú Gōngyuán). The trip takes between half an hour and one hour, depending on traffic. The bus stops at the park entrance.
FÓSHĀN 佛山
%0757 / pop 5.9 million
Literally ‘Buddha Hill’, Fóshān, 19km southwest of Guǎngzhōu, is one of China’s oldest pottery towns. Dating back to the Ming dynasty, the city, along with its neighbour Shíwān, is renowned for its ceramics, metal work and wood carvings. The city is additionally known as the birthplace of Wong Fei Hung (now Pinyinised as Huang Feihong; see p596), a beloved 19th-century martial artist and acupuncturist, later portrayed and immortalised in over 100 movies in the 20th century, including Jet Li’s series of Once Upon a Time in China. Fóshān is also the cradle of Cantonese opera.
GUǍNGDŌNG
TAXI
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Information Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng; cnr Lianhua Lu & Songfeng Lu; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) China International Travel Service (CITS; Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè; %8835 9901; 14 Zumiao Lu; h7.15am8.15pm) This branch is just next to Carrianna Hotel. Post office (yóujú; Qinren Lu; h8.30am-9.30pm) Mail your pottery home here.
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Fóshān is small enough to get around on foot and there are some places off of the main arteries that are worth investigation. Most interesting and historical is Donghua Lane (Dōnghuá Lǐ), between Renmin Lu and Jianxin Lu, where the homes, with their distinctive southern-style roofs and doorways, look like they’ve hardly changed since the Qing dynasty.
Sights ZǓ MIÀO 祖庙
SHÍWĀN 石湾
Part of the Foshan Museum (Fóshān Bówùguǎn), this temple complex (% 8229 3723; 21 Zumiao Lu; admission Y20; h 8.30am-6pm), founded during the late 11th century, is a marvellous example of southern Chinese architecture. It is the premier temple in Guǎndōng dedicated to Běidì, a Taoist god of the north, commonly represented by a turtle and a snake. Significantly, it is where Cantonese opera originated. You’ll see an imposing statue of Běidì in the main hall and a huge open stage in front of the hall, where opera performances are still held during festivals as an offering to the god. The complex contains some excellent collections, including an extensive display on martial arts. A short walk north of the temple is the Buddhist Renshou Temple (Rénshòu Sì; %8225 3053; 9 Zumiao Lu; admission free; h8am-5pm), a former Ming monastery that remains an active place of worship today. Inside, you’ll find a sevenstorey pagoda built in 1656, as well as the Foshan Folk Arts Studio, famous for its intricately beautiful papercuts. Still further north, Liang’s Garden (Liáng Yuán;
A visit to Fóshān must include a trip to neighbouring Shíwān, one of China’s most important ceramics production centres. Streets are lined with pottery shops and you can find all kinds of earthenware here. The highlight is a visit to the Nanfeng Ancient Kiln
%8224 1279; Songfeng Lu; admission Y10; h8.30am5.30pm) is an attractive garden complex that
dates from the early 19th century. Within is a tranquil lotus pond, willow-lined pathways and carefully arranged rock formations. The residences of the family have all been elegantly restored and are a delight to explore.
(Nánfēng Gǔzào; %8271 1798; 6 Gaomiao Lu; admission Y25; h9am-5.30pm), which contains two ‘dragon
kilns’ from the early Ming that are more than 30m long and have never been extinguished since the day they first were fired up. Signs (in English) explain the four-day process from clay to glazed pot. You can visit the workshop, and you can even try your own hand at making pottery. One-on-one instruction (Y40) is with a resident artist (some speak English), and you get to take your masterpiece home.
Sleeping & Eating Most people visit Fóshān as a day trip from Guǎngzhōu. If you want to stay here, Pearl River Hotel (Zhūjiāng Dàjiǔdiàn; %8228 87512; 1 Qinren Lu; 亲仁路1号; d Y156-186, tr Y380; ai) has some big but spartan rooms. The four-star Carrianna Hotel (Jiāníngnà Dàjiǔdiàn; %8222 3828; www .fshq-hotel.com; 14 Zumiao Lu; 祖庙路14号; s Y478-648, d Y528-648, ste Y1288; ai) has roomy facilities, friendly staff and a reasonably good restaurant. The price includes breakfast. Expect 20% discounts. There are some fast-food joints and cheap noodle houses along Zumiao Lu and scattered
GUǍNGDŌNG
THE MAKING OF A NATIONAL LEGEND Fóshān-born Wong Fei Hung (1847–1924) is one of the most well-known folk heroes in China. Although an outstanding kung fu master in his lifetime, he didn’t become widely known until his life mixed with fiction in countless movies from 1949 to the present – most made in Hong Kong – in which he was portrayed as an upright master fighting against villains and lately as a hero fighting ‘foreign devils’ in the late Qing era. Sadly, Wong spent his later years in desolation and poverty, after his son was murdered and his martial-arts school in then-Canton was destroyed by fire. Regardless, an astonishing 106 movies (and counting!) have featured the son of Fóshān, resulting in the world’s longest movie series and the making of a national legend.
Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ
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INFORMATION Bank of China Ё䫊㸠 ...................................................... 1 A2 CITS Ё䰙ᮙ㸠⼒........................................................ (see 6) Post Office 䚂ሔ...................................................................... 2 A2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Foshan Museum ԯቅम⠽佚 ......................................... (see 5) Liang's Garden ṕು.............................................................. 3 A2 Renshou Temple ҕᇓᇎ..................................................... 4 A3 Zǔ Miào ⼪ᑭ........................................................................... 5 A3 SLEEPING Carrianna Hotel.......................................................................6 A2 Pearl River Hotel ⦴∳䜦ᑫ ............................................ 7 A2 EATING Vegetarian Restaurant....................................................... (see 4) SHOPPING Market Ꮦഎ ............................................................................. 8 A2 TRANSPORT Long-Distance Bus Station 䭓䗨≑䔺キ......................... 9 A2 Zumiao Bus Station ⼪ᑭ≑䔺キ ................................... 10 A3
Renmin Lu
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The metro line between Guǎngzhōu and Fóshān will be in service, hopefully, in 2010. A taxi between Guǎngzhōu and Fóshān costs about Y80.
throughout the city centre. For healthier fare, there’s a good vegetarian restaurant (dishes Y13-20; h11am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm) in Renshou Temple.
Getting There & Away
Both bus 101 and 109 (Y2) link the train station to Zǔ Miào and Shíwān. Taxis start at Y7; a taxi to Shíwān will cost around Y10.
KĀIPÍNG 开平
%0750 / pop 680,000
Sleepy Kāipíng, 140km southwest of Guǎngzhōu, was finally developed for tourism when it was crowned a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2007. The town centre itself is dusty and scruffy; but the countryside has a unique cluster of villages dotted with flamboyant fortified residences and watchtowers called diāolóu. These towers, which display an eclectic mix of European architectural styles from Roman to rococo, are the epitome of the history of Chinese émigré during the 19th and early 20th centuries. The villagers were ‘sold’ as coolies to work in California and Southeast Asia (see p602). Those who made a fortune brought home exotic architectural styles and built the towers as fortresses, not only to show off their wealth, but also to keep out bandits, and later to protect residents from Japanese troops. Each was built with sturdy walls, iron gates and ports for defence and observation. Out of the approximately 3000 original diāolóu, only 1833 remain.
GUǍNGDŌNG
Frequent buses (Y12 to Y15, 45 minutes) link Fóshān’s Zumiao bus station (Zǔmiào chēzhàn; Jianxin Lu) with the main bus stations in Guǎngzhōu. Buses leave every 15 minutes between 6.45am and 11pm. Minibuses (Y12) also go to Guǎngzhōu’s Guangfo Bus Station (Guǎngfó Qìchēzhàn; Zhongshan Balu). Destinations served from Fóshān’s longdistance bus station (Fóshān shěng qìchēzhàn; Fenjiang Beilu) include Shēnzhèn (Y87 to Y100) and Zhūhǎi (Y50 to Y65). To get to Hong Kong (Y100, three hours), the Carrianna Hotel has daily buses, but you’ll need to enquire about the schedule, as it often changes. Trains between Fóshān and Guǎngzhōu (Y10 to Y15, 30 minutes) are faster than buses, but there are fewer daily departures. There is also a direct express train to Hung Hom in Hong Kong (Y245, three hours), with a daily departure at 6.01pm (12.30pm from Kowloon).
Getting Around
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Sights
GUǍNGDŌNG
The largest collection of diāolóu is in the village of Zili (自力村; Zìlì Cūn; h8.30am-5.30pm), 11km west of Kāipíng. Here, 15 towers rise beautifully amid the rice field. Only two towers, built in the 1920s, are open to the public – the tallest, Míngshí Lóu (铭石楼), and the poetically named Yúnhuàn Lóu (云幻楼; literally ‘Mist and Mirage’). They were once the most prosperous homes of the Fang clan, who made a bundle in the Philippines. On the top of the buildings are four towers known as ‘swallow nests’, each with embrasures, cobblestones and a water cannon, which was used against bandits. Next to the village is the noteworthy Dēng Lóu (灯楼), a five-storey tower built in 1920 and called ‘Light Tower’ because of its powerful searchlight. Also worth a visit is Ruìshí Lóu (瑞石楼; Y20) located behind Jinjiangli Village, 20km south of Kāipíng. One of the most marvellous of the towers, it was built in 1923 and has nine storeys with a Byzantine-style roof and Roman dome supported by elaborately decorated walls and pillars. It is privately owned and only opens to the public on the weekends. In the nearby Nanxing Village there’s also Nánxìng Xié Lóu (南 兴斜楼), or ‘The Leaning Tower’, which was built in 1903 and tilts severely to one side, with its central axis over 2m off-centre. History buffs can consider visiting other smaller but historically important collections of diāolóu, including the oldest tower, Yínglóng Lóu (迎龙楼), in Sanmenli Village and the fortified houses in Majianglong Village (马降龙; Mǎjiànglóng). A visit to Kāipíng is not complete if you miss the charming old town of Chìkǎn (赤坎) and the Li Garden (立园; Lì Yuán; h8am-5pm) in Tángkǒu County. Chìkǎn, 10km southwest of Kāipíng, has an array of quaint old buildings called qílóu straddling Tanjiang River.
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Distinctive for their pillars and enclosed balconies, they were built by overseas Cantonese merchants in the 1920s, and are reminiscent of the bygone Canton. Li Garden, about a 15-minute taxi ride from Kāipíng, was the residence of Mr Xie Weili, a Chinese emigrant to the United States. Constructed in 1936, it has been transformed into a park for tourists. Most of the splendidly decorated buildings are open to the public, with some, abandoned after residents fled from invading Japanese troops, left in their original condition to chilling effect. A combo ticket to Li Garden and the villages of Majianglong and Zili costs Y130; otherwise, individual admission costs are Y60 for Li Garden and Y50 for each village.
Sleeping You can see the diāolóu on a day trip from Guǎngzhōu, but it’s possible to stay overnight in Kāipíng. For reasonable rooms opposite the provincial bus station try the Seven Continent Hotel (七洲商务酒店; Qīzhōu Shāngwù Jiǔdiàn; %222 8777; fax 220 6378; 4-6 Musha Lu; 幕沙路4-6号; s Y159, d Y179-199; ai).
Getting There & Around Buses to Kāipíng (Y55 to Y60, two hours) leave Guǎngzhōu’s long-distance bus stations every 30 minutes between 6.20am and 8pm. There are also buses from Zhūhǎi (Y52 to Y71, 2½ hours), Shēnzhèn (Y90, 2½ hours) and Hong Kong (HK$150, four hours). Buses will drop you off at one of two bus stations, the central Kāipíng bus station (义祠总站; Yìcí Zhǒngzhàn) or the provincial station (长沙汽车站; Chángshā Qìchēzhàn), where you can switch to a local bus (Y4 to Y5) that will take you out to the diāolóu. Because the diāolóu are scattered throughout several
INFORMATION Seven Star Crags Park Bank of China Ё䫊㸠 .................. 1 C3 ϗ᯳ች݀ು...................................... 7 China Travel Service 㙛ᑚЁᮙ㸠⼒ ......................... (see 1) SLEEPING Post Office 䚂ሔ.................................. 2 C3 Dynasty Hotel ⱛᳱ䜦ᑫ.................. 8 Hubin Hotel Ⓖ䜦ᑫ................. 9 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING Chongxi Pagoda ዛ⽻ศ ...............................................3 D4 Restaurants & Food Stalls 令佚Ϣᇣৗ....................................10 Cloud-Draped Tower ѥὐ ............................................... 4 B3 Old City Walls সජ............................ 5 B3 TRANSPORT Boats to Seven Star Crags Park River View Tower ࠄϗ᯳ች݀ುⱘⷕ༈.................11 䯙∳ὐ ............................................... 6 C4
C1
C3 C3
C3
C3
Chu Kong Passenger Transport Company ⦴∳ᅶ䖤᳝䰤݀ৌ .................... 12 D4 Local Bus Station (Buses to Dǐnghú Shān) ݀݅≑䔺キ(ᓔ㥊ḓጊ)............13 C3 Long-Distance Bus Station 䭓䗨≑䔺キ ....................................14 C3 Qiaoxi Bus Station ḹ㽓䔺キ ....................................... 15 A3 Zhaoqing Ferry Pier (Boats to Hong Kong) 㙛ᑚⷕ༈(㚅᷼) ....... 16 D4
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counties, most people find it easier to rent a taxi to take them around to the various sites. A taxi to Zili from Kāipíng should cost Y90, with an hour’s wait included. A taxi from Kāipíng to Li Garden costs around Y26 each way. If you want to see all the towers, your best bet would be to charter a taxi for the day. You’ll find taxi drivers waiting in front of the bus stations to take you around. A half-day will cost around Y200 and a full day Y350, but you can negotiate these rates.
formations that together make up the Seven Star Crags (Qīxīng Yán). The Dǐnghú Shān (Mt Dinghu) to the northeast is one of the most popular scenic spots in Guǎngdōng. Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng; Duanshou Wulu; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) China Travel Service (CTS; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; %226 8090; Duanshou Wulu; h8am-9pm) Post office (yóujú; Jianshe Sanlu; h9am-8pm)
ZHÀOQÌNG 肇庆
Sights
%0758 / pop 3.9 million
Central to the Seven Star Crags Park (Qīxīng Yán
Zhàoqìng, lying on the Xi River (Xī Jiāng) some 110km west of Guǎngzhōu, is bordered to the north by lakes and a series of limestone
Gōngyuán; %230 2838; admission Y60; h8am-5.30pm)
Information
ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ is a group of misty limestone hills, with concealed caves and grottoes among their 0 0
ZHÀOQÌNG A
B
C
To Gu†ngzhŸu (70km)
Zhaoqing Train Station
500 m 0.3 miles
D
7
1
Xijiang
Fairy-Hand Crag
Toad Crag
Beilu
Bohai Lake
Xiannu Lake
Jade Curtain Crag
Pillar of Heaven Crag
To D¨nghú Shƒn (18km)
Star Lake
Daqiao Lu
Do n
gl
u
Qinglian Lake
Xi
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Sports Centre
Guta Beilu
2
Zhongxin Lake
15
ou
11
Qil
u
h anz Du 14
13
Gateway Sq
10
9
8
Songcheng Lu
Chengzhong Lu
Zhen
g
Tianning Lu
Lu i'an
Xijiang Nanlu
Me
Songcheng Lu 4 5
Wenming Lu
1
Duanzhou Liulu
2
Jianshe Sanlu
Silu
Heping Lu
eilu Gongnong B
3
hou
Renmin Zhonglu
anz
Guta Zhonglu
Huang Tang Lu
Du
12
Don
glu
6
3
16
Xiyiang Bridge
Xi River (X¸ Jiƒng)
To Licha Village (21km)
To Hong Kong
To Xiangang Village (21km)
GUǍNGDŌNG
Jiangbin Zhonglu
4
600 G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • A r o u n d Z h à o q ì n g
craggy peaks. Willow and kapok trees line the paths around Star Lake (Xīng Hú). It’s an attractive place but hardly worthy of the hefty admission price. Nine-storey Chongxi Pagoda (Chóngxǐ Tǎ; Guta Nanlu; admission Y5; h8.30am-5pm), a tower facing the river in the southeast, has been restored to its original Song style. From the top are terrific views of the river and two similar pagodas on the opposite bank. The oldest part of Zhàoqìng is surrounded by its old city walls (gǔ chéng) complete with fortifications: River View Tower (Yuèjiāng Lóu; %223 2968; Jiangbin Zhonglu; admission Y8; h8.30am-5pm) to the southeast and, to its northwest, the CloudDraped Tower (Pīyú Lóu; Songcheng Xilu).
Sleeping Hubin Hotel (Huábīn Dàjiǔdiàn; %223 2921; fax 227 2248; 82 Tianning Beilu; 天宁北路82号; s & d Y298, tr Y388; a) The Hubin is on the main drag. Rooms are neat and well managed, and after the usual 40% discount it’s a reasonable budget option in town. Dynasty Hotel (Huángcháo Jiǔdiàn; %223 8238; fax 222 3288; 9 Duanzhou Wulu; 端州五路9号; s & d Y560-950, ste from Y1280; ai) This hotel has 350 squeakyclean rooms with up to 30% discount. Some have good views of the park behind the hotel. The staff is solicitous, and the restaurants inside have good food.
Eating Zhàoqìng’s number-one culinary speciality is the glutinous rice dumplings (裹蒸粽; guǒzhēngzòng) that are wrapped in bamboo leaves and contain anything from peanuts and lotus seeds to dried sausage and salted duck-egg yolk. It used to be served only during the Dragon Boat Festival in June, but now it’s available year-round. A number of food stalls fill the pavements of Wenming Lu. The restaurant in Dynasty Hotel is notable for its yum cha and other Cantonese specialities.
Getting There & Away GUǍNGDŌNG
BOAT
One boat leaves for Hong Kong from the port of Gāomíng (高明), about an hour from Zhàoqìng by bus. You can buy your ticket (Y247, four hours, includes the price of the ferry) and board the bus at the Chu Kong Passenger Transport Company (%222 5736; Gongnong Nanlu; h9am-6pm) up the road from the ferry pier. The bus departs at 7.30am. Hong Kong
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passengers will also transfer at Gāomíng, before heading on to Zhàoqìng. BUS
Buses to Guǎngzhōu (Y45, 1½ hours) depart from Zhàoqìng’s long-distance bus station (qìchē kèyùnzhàn; Duanzhou Silu), opposite the lake, every 20 minutes. There are also buses to Shēnzhèn (Y100, three hours), to Zhūhǎi (Y75, four hours) and to Guìlín (Y120, seven hours) in Guǎngxī province at 8am. TRAIN
The fastest train to Guǎngzhōu takes two hours; hard seats are Y22. Tickets booked at CTS or hotels include a Y10 service charge. There is a direct express train to Hong Kong (HK$235, 4½ hours), with a daily departure at 4.56pm (12.30pm from Kowloon).
Getting Around The local bus station (Duanzhou Silu) faces the lake just opposite Gateway Sq. Bus 12 links the train and long-distance bus stations with the ferry pier via the centre of town. A taxi to the train station from the centre will cost about Y15.
AROUND ZHÀOQÌNG
Dǐnghú Shān 鼎湖山 This 11.3-sq-km reserve (Mt Dingu; %0758-262 2510; 21 Paifang Lu; adult/student Y60/35), 18km northeast of Zhàoqìng, offers some good walks among lush vegetation, temples, waterfalls and pools. Baoding Garden (Bǎodǐng Yuán), at the reserve’s northern edge, contains Nine Dragon Vessel (Jiǔlóng Bǎodǐng), the world’s largest dǐng, a ceremonial Chinese pot with two handles and three or four legs, unveiled for the millennium. A short distance to the southwest a small boat (Y15) will ferry you to the tiny wooded island in Ding Lake (Dǐng Hú), where there is a butterfly preserve. Qingyun Temple (Qìngyún Sì) is an enormous Buddhist complex of over 100 buildings. Don’t miss the gilded statues of 500 Buddhist arhats (saints), the rice pot capable of feeding 1000 people and the camellia planted in the central courtyard in 1685. Dǐnghú Shān can be visited as a day trip from Zhàoqìng, but staying in the reserve is also possible. Dinghu Summer Resort (Bìshǔ Shānzhuāng; %0758-262 1688; fax 0758-262 1665; d Y288-368; ai)
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0 0
D¯NGHÚ SH„N A
B
2 km 1 mile
C
D
Heaven Lake (Tiƒn Hú)
1
Guanyan Pavilion (Guƒnyàn Tíng)
2 Cliff-Face Plank Path (Liántiƒnzhàndào)
3
Footbridge to Island Boats to Island
Baizhang Peak (311m) Pavilion (T¸ngpù Tíng)
Twin Rainbow Bridge (Shuƒnghóngf‰iqiàn)
Shizi Peak (352m) 6
2 Gulong Spring (G©lóng Quán)
White Cloud Temple (Báiyún Sì)
3
Leaping Dragon Nunnery (Yuèlóng „n)
Half Mountain Pavilion (Bànshƒn Tíng)
7
Feitian Peak (287m)
5
D¨nghú Shƒn (491m) San Bao Peak Hanzhu Ravine (461m) (Hánzh¥jiàn)
Leaping Dragon Pool (Yuèlóng Tán)
White Goose Pond (Bái'é Tán)
Lion's Roar Rock (Sh¸h¡u Shí)
Immortal Riding a Crane (Xiƒnrén Qíhè) (316m)
1
4 Crane Viewing Pavilion (Wànghè Tíng)
8
Calabash Pond (Húlu Tán)
INFORMATION Dǐnghú Shān Reserve Office 哢ቅᷥು ................. 1 C3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Baoding Garden ᅱ哢ು...................................................... 2 B1 Ding Lake 哢 ....................................................................... 3 B1 Main Gate ቅ䮼.......................................................................4 D3 Qingyun Temple ᑚѥᇎ ..................................................... 5 C2 SLEEPING Dinghu Summer Resort 哢ቅ䙓ᱥቅᑘ..................... 6 C2 Mt Dinghu International Youth Hostel 哢ቅ䰙䴦ᑈᮙ佚......................................... 7 C2 TRANSPORT Bus Stop (Buses to Zhàoqìng) 䔺キᕔ㙛ᑚ...................8 D3
Bagua Villages 八卦村 Just 21km to the east and southeast of Zhàoqìng are two fascinating, off-the-beatentrack villages, exceptional for their shape and feng shui deployment. More commonly known as Bāguà Cūn, Líchá Cūn (黎槎村; admission Y20; h8.15am-5.30pm) is a 700-year-old octagonal village, built according to bagua, an octagonal symbol of Taoism that has eight trigrams representing changes in eight different phases of life. An aerial image of the village is displayed at the entrance. Houses radiate systematically from a taichi (symbol of yin and yang in Taoism) on a central terrace, turning the village into a maze – a perfect spot to play hide and seek. Some houses here have the regionally distinctive ‘wok-handle’ roofs, symbolising wealth and status. Today, almost all villagers are gone and signs of tourism are coming. Bus 315 (Y7) goes to Líchá from Qiaoxi bus station (Qiáoxī kèyùnzhàn; Duanzhou Qilu) in Zhàoqìng. Xiǎngǎng Cūn (蚬岗村) is another Bagua village built in the Ming dynasty. It’s larger, more lively and less frequented by tourists than Líchá Cūn. Villagers are not very used
GUǍNGDŌNG
has a quiet setting and decent rooms. Within the resort is Mt Dinghu International Youth Hostel (Dǐnghú Shān Guójì Qīngnián Lǚguǎn; dm Y38, s & d Y138-208). Rooms are clean but buggy. Bus 21 (Y4.50) goes to Dǐnghú Shān from the local bus station in Zhàoqìng. From the reserve’s main entrance you can follow the main road north on foot or you can catch one of the electric carts (Y15) that make a loop around the reserve. A taxi from Zhàoqìng to the reserve will cost about Y60.
To Zhàoqìng (18km)
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PIGLETS FOR SALE The mid-19th century saw Guǎngdōng and parts of Fújiàn in a state of despair, stalked by famine and revolts. Meanwhile, slavery was outlawed in most Western countries, creating a need to recruit cheap manpower for the labour-intensive exploitation of the New World. Conditions were ripe for many unskilled workers from Táishān (where Kāipíng is located) and elsewhere to seek opportunities for a better life in Europe and its colonies. Disingenuous recruiters promised good pay and working conditions, but in reality the workers were shipped to the Americas, Australia and Southeast Asia, only to work like slaves. Many died before arriving at their destinations, packed like sardines in the indescribably inhumane on-board environment, which was later described as a ‘floating hell’. Those who survived worked as coolies under miserable conditions on the sugarcane fields of South America, on farms in Southeast Asia, and in goldmining and rail construction in the United States and Canada. The coolie trade was known in Cantonese as maai ju jai – ‘selling piglets’. From the mid-19th to early 20th centuries ‘piglet centres’ were widely established in Hong Kong and Macau to recruit labourers: some nine million Chinese workers left home. Some were not reunited with their families for 30 years, and some never had the chance to return home alive. Of those who survived, however, a handful made a fortune, becoming wealthy huáqiáo, or ‘overseas Chinese’. The huáqiáo, transformed from piglets into a powerful community, not only brought home wealth and exotic ideas that were assimilated into their culture, but, more importantly, they played a quiet yet vital role in subsequent uprisings led or instigated by Sun Yatsen, with significant financial contributions and political participation, which finally led to the fall of the Qing in 1911.
to outsiders, so expect more curious eyes. There are 16 magnificently decorated ancestral halls but most are generally closed. A polite request to the villagers may allow you access to the clan’s halls. Board bus 308 at the Qiaoxi bus station to get here. Expect an hour’s bus ride.
QĪNGYUǍN 清远
GUǍNGDŌNG
%0763 / pop 3.9 million
The industrial town of Qīngyuǎn, about 70km northwest of Guǎngzhōu, sits on the northern banks of the Bei River. Qīngyuǎn itself, a jumble of warehouses and factories, holds little interest. The main attractions lie in the surrounding river valley, a peaceful refuge of pine forests, mountains and deeply eroded canyons. Tucked in the hills about 20km upstream from Qīngyuǎn are the secluded temples of Fēilái (飞来) and Fēixiá (飞霞), both accessible to visitors and well worth visiting. Boats to the temples run from Qīngyuǎn’s Baimiao dock (白庙码头; Báimiào Mǎtou), 12km east of town. You have to negotiate the cost for a boat with the fishermen. Depending on the number of passengers (five is maximum), Y120 to Y230 is reasonable for a whole boat. The entire trip, from Fēilái onwards to Fēixiá and the return, takes about four hours.
The first part of the trip takes you along the river past some mountain villages and ancient pagodas to the stately Buddhist temple of Fēilái (admission Y15), nestled at the foot of a steep mountain. Though Fēilái has been around for over 1400 years, the whole complex was destroyed by landslide in 1997 and subsequently rebuilt. The temple is serenely located in a pine forest; follow the narrow path through the forest to the mountaintop pavilion that offers terrific views of the river gorge below. You’ll be given about an hour to look around before your boat heads further upstream to the Taoist temple of Fēixiá. When your boat arrives at Fēixiá (admission Y35), about 4km upstream, you’ll be dropped off at stairs that lead upwards from the riverbank and onwards to the temple. To get to the temple, follow the stairs from the riverbank through the woods for about 20 minutes. Founded in the late 18th century, it’s actually a complex of different halls, courtyards and pavilions connected by tree-lined paths. The entire place, with its imposing walls, low ceilings and mazes of dark corridors, feels more like Dracula’s castle than a place of refuge. For those who love spooky things, this place will delight. For accommodation, adjacent to the main bus station is Royal Crown Hotel (华冠大酒店; Huáguàn Dàjiǔdiàn; %387 8888; fax 387 8883; 8 Fengming
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Lu; 凤鸣路8号; d from Y256; ai), which has
adequate rooms in a convenient location. About ten minutes’ walk south of the town centre at the north side of the Bei River, you’ll find restaurants along Yanjiang Lu at the waterfront serving decent meals. Dinner for two, which includes fresh-caught fish and wild vegetables, will cost about Y100. Buses run about every 15 minutes from Guǎngzhōu’s long-distance bus stations near the main train station (Y27 to Y32, 1½ hours) from 6.30am to 7.30pm. There are also buses from Shēnzhèn (Y95, three hours). Qīngyuǎn’s main bus station is about 4km south of the Bei River. Bus 6 links the main bus station to the old bus station (jiù qìchēzhàn), where you can catch bus 207 to go to Baimiao dock. Buses 6 and 7 travel from the main bus station to the town centre. Alternatively, a taxi from the main bus station to Yanjiang Lu will cost about Y15.
NANLING NATIONAL PARK 南岭国家森林公园 %0751 / pop 2000 / elev 1200m
Scenic Nánlǐng (Southern Mountains) makes for a nice escape from the toxic Pearl River delta. Lying 285km north of Guǎngzhōu, the Nánlǐng ranges stretch from Guǎngxī to Jiāngxī provinces, separating the Pearl River from the Yangzi River. In the early 1990s, the ranges in Guǎngdōng, which include the highest peak in Guǎngdōng, were declared a reserve (Nánlǐng Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán; %523 2038; www.eco-nanling.com; h8am-6pm), preserving the old-growth blue
pine forest. Although part of the forest was destroyed by a freak snowstorm in early 2008, it still possesses its own beauty, covering the mountains with dark and light green waves.
Sights & Activities
tain streams that tumble downward as frothy cascades and waterfalls. A more challenging hike is the 12km-long trail to Little Yellow Mountain (小黄山; Xiǎo Huángshān). You’ll hike through an oldgrowth forest of endangered blue pines, a species unique to this part of Guǎngdōng. From the crest (1608m) the views of rolling mountain ranges are spectacular. The longest, steepest and most difficult hike is in the least-visited part of the park, along the 28km ‘Number 4 Trail’ (四号林道; Sìhào Líndào) to Shíkēngkōng (石坑空). At 1902m, Shíkēngkōng is the highest peak in Guǎngdōng and straddles the boundary between Guǎngdōng and Húnán. It was once a restricted military zone but is now an outlook point for visitors. The park entrance is at the southern end of the village of Wúzhǐshān (五指山), which is populated by forest rangers. From there it’s another 6km drive or walk to the beginning of the trails to the waterfalls and Water Valley, and yet another 6km to Little Yellow Mountain. The best way is to hire a taxi from the village. For between Y160 and Y200 you can hire a taxi for the whole day. Usually the driver will drop you at one end of the trail and wait for you at the other. A one-way drive to the lower entrance to the waterfalls is Y60. Admission to the park is Y60. Keep the ticket and the receipt, and get them stamped at the Orange House (below) in the village for multiday access to the park. Also worth a visit is the tiny but lively Sunday market held every week in Wúzhǐshān, where farmers from villages nearby do their weekly shopping and stock clearance. The village is small enough to walk about on foot. No matter when you visit Nánlǐng, bring enough warm clothing, as the temperature drops drastically at night on the mountain.
Sleeping & Eating Camping inside the park is not allowed. The only option is to stay in Wúzhǐshān. You won’t miss the landmark Orange House (橙屋; Chéngwū; %523 2929; d Y398-489; ai), a hotel brightly painted in orange with 32 comfortable rooms. The hotel uses its proceeds to support ecoawareness programs for the mainland Chinese visitors and for the upkeep of the park, as well as to help revitalise this secluded village. Staff don’t speak English but the manager can read it. Advance booking is recommended.
GUǍNGDŌNG
Most people come with their walking boots primed and ready for action. There are four trails, and most can be finished within two to three hours. The easiest is a 6km-long trail that follows a stream and leads you through Water Valley (亲水谷; Qīnshuǐgǔ), which includes verdant, steep-sided gorges and crystalclear pools along the way. A shorter but more interesting 3½km trail will take you along a series of stunning waterfalls (瀑布长廊; Pùbù Chángláng). All along the trail you will be spoiled by the sight, sound and feel of clear, cool moun-
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The hotel also manages an air-con-free Ranger House (林舍; Lińshè; tr Y198), equipped with eight spotless triple rooms right behind the Orange House. There is a campground next to the theatre/library not far from the hotel, but at the time of writing it was closed for storing wood from trees damaged by the snowstorm. The market (shìchǎng) in the village has several food stalls where you can grab a bite. South of the Orange House is Feng’s Kitchen (冯家菜; Féngjiācài; %523 2107), a wonderful family-run eatery. Mr Feng, a retired forest worker, serves delectable meals in his courtyard. Reservations are necessary.
Getting There & Away Make your way to Sháoguān (韶关) before heading to Nánlǐng. Guǎngzhōu’s main train station has many northbound trains stopping over at Sháoguān (Y50 to Y89, 2½ hours) from 7.43am to 11.56pm. Buses (Y70, four hours) leave from the long-distance bus stations every 40 minutes between 6.50am and 8.30pm. There is one bus from Sháoguān to Wúzhǐshān (Y20, two hours), departing daily at 11.15am from the south station (站南汽车 站; Zhànnán Qìchèzhàn, Zhannan Lu), 200m south of the train station, and at 11.45am from the west bus station (客运西站; Kèyùn Xīzhàn; Gongye Dong Lu), west of the river. Buses 5 and 18 commute between the two stations, or a taxi should be no more than Y5. If you miss the bus, do not despair. There are buses going to Rǔyuán (乳源; Y10, one hour) every 40 minutes. From Rǔyuán, two buses to Wúzhǐshān (Y10) leave at 12.30pm and 4.20pm, or you can hire a taxi (Y80 one way). In Wúzhǐshān, buses to Sháoguān and Rǔyuán leave at 7.30am and 2.30pm, respectively. From Rǔyuán, buses to Sháoguān leave every 15 minutes. Other destinations include Guǎngzhōu and Shēnzhèn, but departures are infrequent. GUǍNGDŌNG
ZHŪHǍI 珠海
%0756 / pop 1.4 million
Like Shēnzhèn, Zhūhǎi is a Special Economic Zone (SEZ). But ‘Pearl Sea’ has never reached the level of success of its well-heeled stepsister across the Pearl River estuary. So much the better for residents and travellers, as this city just over the border from Macau is one
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of the cleanest and greenest metropolises in China. Zhūhǎi is so close to Macau that a visit can be arranged as a day trip. Visas (MOP$150 for most nationalities, MOP$450 for British) valid for three days are available at the border between 8.30am and 10pm. US citizens have to buy a visa in advance in Macau or Hong Kong.
Orientation The city of Zhūhǎi is divided into three main districts. Gǒngběi, which abuts the Macau border, to the south of the city, is the main tourist district, with lots of hotels, restaurants and shops; Gongbei Port (Gǒngběi Kǒu’àn) is the large modern complex where visitors arrive from Macau. To the northeast is Jídà, the eastern part of which contains some large waterfront hotels and resorts as well as Jiuzhou Harbour (Jiǔzhōu Gǎng), where Hong Kong, Shēnzhèn and Guǎngdōng passenger ferries arrive and depart. Xiāngzhōu is the northernmost part of Zhūhǎi city and has many government buildings and housing blocks and a busy fishing port.
Information Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng) Gǒngběi (cnr Yingbin Dadao & Yuehai Donglu; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am4pm Sat & Sun); Lianhua Lu (h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) China Travel Service (CTS; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; %889 9072; 33 Yingbin Dadao; h8am-8pm) Next door to the Zhuhai Overseas Chinese Hotel. Post office (yóujú; 1041-1043 Yuehai Donglu; h8am8pm) Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gōng’ānjú; %864 2114; Guihua Nanlu, Gǒngběi)
Sights The Zhuhai City Museum (Zhūhǎishì Bówùguǎn; %332 4116; 191 Jingshan Lu; admission Y10; h9am-5pm), designed to look like a Ming-dynasty compound, contains a small but interesting collection of old copperware and Tibetan artefacts. On the outskirts of Zhūhǎi are a number of lesser-known sites that have nonetheless played vital parts in Guǎngdōng history. Meixi Royal Archways (梅溪牌坊; Méixī Páifāng; %865 9577; Meixicun, Qianshan; admission Y50; h8.30am-6pm), to the northwest of downtown, was originally a residence of the legendary Chan Afong, a philanthropist who married a sister of a
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G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • Z h ū h ǎ i 605
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ZH§H‡I Paradise Hill
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To Tángjiƒwƒn (18km); Tangjia Public Garden (18km); Tangjia Temple (18km); Cuìh‰ng (33km)
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South China Sea 9 16 Jinzhou Harbour
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INFORMATION Bank of China Ё䫊㸠 ...........................1 A4 Bank of China Ё䫊㸠 ........................(see 8) CTS Ёᮙ㸠⼒ᑓᎲᣅ࣫.....................2 A3 Post Office 䚂ሔ ............................................3 A4 PSB ݀ᅝሔ .....................................................4 A4 Visa Office................................................... (see 15) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Zhuhai City Museum ⦴⍋Ꮦम⠽佚 .........................................5 C1 SLEEPING Home Inn བᆊ䜦ᑫ ...................................6 C2 International Youth Hostel ⦴⍋䰙ᄺ⫳ᮙ佚............................(see 9)
EATING Jin Yue Xuan 䞥ᙺ䔽 ................................10 B4 Zhen Kungfu ⳳࡳ................................11 A4 TRANSPORT Airport Shuttle Bus..................................... 12 A3 CTS Bus Station............................................ 13 A4 Gongbei Long-Distance Bus Station ᣅ࣫䭓䗨≑䔺キ .................................14 A4 Gongbei Port ᣅ࣫ষኌ .........................15 A4 Jiuzhou Harbour Ferry Pier бᎲ␃ⷕ༈ .......................................... 16 D3 Kee Kwan Bus Station ℻䮰キ≑䔺キ ....................................(see 13) Zhuhai Sightseeing Bus Stop................. 17 A4 Zhuhai Sightseeing Bus Terminal ........18 C1
brought from India when the temple was founded. Board bus 10 and alight at Tangjia Market (Tángjiāshìchǎng).
Sleeping Very few travellers stay in Zhūhǎi, apart from people on business. There’s little demand for budget accommodation, so prices are generally midrange to top end (though heavy discounting can blur the distinctions). Most hotels here add a 10% to 15% service charge to the bill. Expect higher prices at the weekend. International Youth Hostel (Guójì Qīngnián Xuéshēng Lǚguǎn; %7711 7712; Zhuhai Holiday Resort; dm Y60)
Hidden away on the Zhuhai Holiday Resort grounds is this tiny hostel with separate
GUǍNGDŌNG
Hawaiian king in the 19th century. The archways were bestowed by Emperor Guangxu but one was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Board Line 1 of the Sightseeing Bus on Yingbin Dadao to get there. To the north of Xiāngzhōu is the labyrinthlike Tángjiāwān (唐家湾). Tangjia Public Garden (唐家共乐园; Tángjiā Gònglèyuán; %338 8896; Eling, Tángjiāwān; adult/student Y10/5; h8.30am-5.30pm) was a private estate of the first premier of the Republic of China, Tang Shaoyi, in 1900. Now it is a garden preserving various old-growth and rare species from south China. On your way there, detour to the 300-year-old Tangjia Temple (唐家三庙; Tángjiā Sānmiào; cnr Datong Lu & Xindizhi Jie, Tángjiāwān; admission free; h8.30am-6pm). A highlight is the grim-looking Buddha statue
Jinye Hotel 䞥䜦ᑫ ................................ 7 A4 Yindo Hotel 䫊䛑䜦ᑫ............................... 8 A3 Zhuhai Holiday Resort ⦴⍋ᑺ؛ᴥ .............................................. 9 C2
606 G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • A r o u n d Z h ū h ǎ i
eight-bed dorms for male and female guests. Beds need to be booked at the front desk of the resort. Home Inn (Rújiā Jiǔdiàn; %337 5111; fax 337 5000; 58 Shihua Donglu; 石花东路58号; s & d Y168-189; a) This burgeoning chain hotel offers basic but neat rooms. Take bus 22 from Jiuzhou Port or bus 4 on Yingbin Dadao. Jinye Hotel (Jīnyè Jiǔdiàn; %888 2668; fax 888 2788; cnr Yingbin Dadao & Qiaoguang Lu; 迎宾大道与侨光 路交界; s & d Y430-520, ste from Y573; a) This hotel is characterless, but its convenient proximity to the bus stations and Gongbei Port, and the year-round hefty discounts, make up for it. Yindo Hotel (Yíndū Jiǔdiàn; %888 3388; fax 888 3311; cnr Yingbin Dadao & Yuehai Donglu; 迎宾大道与粤海东 路交界; s & d Y860-1240, ste from Y1360; a) Popular with business travellers, Yindo is within striking distance of the border and just next to the main Bank of China.
BUS
Eating
Zhūhǎi’s airport is 43km southwest of the city. An airport shuttle bus (Y25) runs reasonably frequently from outside the Zhongzhu building (Zhōngzhū Dàshà), on the corner of Yuehua Lu and Yingbin Dadao. Also, there is a bus going to the airport from Jiuzhou Harbour once every two hours between 10am and 8pm. A taxi will cost about Y140. The light rail spur line from the city centre to the airport is scheduled to be complete by 2011. Zhūhǎi has a clean, efficient and cheap bus system, with fares pegged at Y2. Taxis have meters and the cost is Y10 for the first 3km, then Y0.60 for each additional 250m. To go from the Macau border to Jiuzhou Harbour costs around Y20.
The area of Gǒngběi near the Macau border has restaurants, night markets and street hawkers. Try Lianhua Lu for bakeries and restaurants serving inexpensive Cantonese food. The budget-chain outlet Zhēn Kūngfū (17 Lianhua Lu; dishes Y6-20; h8am-5pm), serving up congee and steamed rice, is also here. Near the waterfront, Jīn Yuè Xuān (%813 3133; 1st-3rd fl, Block B, 265 Rihua Commercial Square, Qinglu Nanlu; meals per person Y100-130; h9am-10pm) serves the best dim sum
and classic Cantonese cuisine in Zhūhǎi.
Getting There & Away AIR
Zhūhǎi’s airport serves various destinations in China, including Běijīng (Y1940), Shànghǎi (Y1400) and Hángzhōu (Y1210). BOAT
GUǍNGDŌNG
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Jetcats between Zhūhǎi and Hong Kong (Y165, 70 minutes) depart seven times a day between 8am and 5.30pm from Jiuzhou Harbour (%333 3359) for the China ferry terminal in Kowloon, and nine times a day from 9am to 9.30pm for the Macau ferry pier in Central. A high-speed ferry operates between Jiuzhou Harbour and Shēnzhèn’s port of Shékǒu (Y95, one hour). There are departures every half-hour between 8am and 9.30pm. They leave from Shékǒu every half hour between 7.30am and 9.30pm. Local buses 3, 12, 25 and 26 all go to Jiuzhou Harbour.
Air-conditioned buses to Guǎngzhōu (Y70 to Y82, 2½ hours) leave from Gongbei longdistance bus station (Gǒngběi qìchēzhàn; Youyi Lu), departing every 15 minutes between 6am and 10pm. Buses to other points in China depart from either this station or the Kee Kwan bus station and the new CTS bus station, both below the shopping centre at Gongbei Port. Destinations include Dōngguǎn (Y60 to Y70, 2½ hours), Fóshān (Y60 to Y70, three hours), Hǔmén (Y68 to Y80, two hours), Kāipíng (Y55 to Y80, 2½ hours), Shàntóu (Y186 to Y205, seven hours), Shēnzhèn (Y88 to Y97, 2½ hours) and Zhàoqìng (Y90 to Y99, 4½ hours). A light rail linking Gongbei Port in Zhūhǎi to Guǎngzhōu (Y55, 70 minutes) is expected to be complete by the end of 2009, substantially shortening the travel time.
Getting Around
AROUND ZHŪHǍI
The small village of Cuìhēng (翠亨), 33km north of Zhūhǎi, is the site of the Dr Sun Yatsen Residence Memorial Museum (孙中山故居纪念 馆; Sūn Zhōngshān Gùjū Jìniànguǎn; %0760-550 1691; Cuiheng Dadao; admission Y20; h9am-5pm), where the revolutionary hero was born in 1866 and returned to live with his parents for four years in 1892. A solemn place of pilgrimage for Chinese of all political persuasions, the museum re-creates the house (the original was torn down in 1913) where Sun grew up; the village compound includes a remarkable collection of furniture and objects from everyday life. The main hall has exhibits examining his life and accomplishments, with signs in English.
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To reach the museum board bus 10 from Yingbin Dadao in Zhūhǎi. Alight at the terminus and change to bus 12.
HǓMÉN 虎门
%0769 / pop 197,000
Also known as Tàipíng (太平), today’s ‘Tiger Gate’ is on the Pearl River, with more battery manufacturing plants than the historical military batteries left behind. This small city’s impact on China’s – and the West’s – history has been far greater than its present size would suggest. It was here that Commissioner Lin Zexu declared war on the opium trade in China (see the boxed text, below) by publicly burning shipments of the narcotic in two pits in what is now Lin Zexu Park (林则徐公园; Lín Zéxú Gōngyuán; Jiefang Lu; admission free; h8.30am-5pm). The park also houses an Opium War Museum (鸦片战争博物 馆; Yāpiàn Zhànzhēng Bówùguǎn; %551 2065; h8am5.30pm), which, at the time of writing, was under renovation. To get there, board bus 13 on Yong’an Lu. Batteries that figured prominently in the First Opium War can be found on the coast of the town. To the south is Bogue Fort (沙 角炮台; Shājiǎo Pàotái), now part of a closed military base. On Wei-yuan Island (威远 岛; Wēiyuǎn Dǎo), Weiyuan Fort (威远炮台; Wēiyuǎn Pàotái; admission Y8; h8.30am-6pm), quietly located beneath Humen Bridge, is a blissful spot to forget yourself in polluted Dōngguǎn, with the sea breeze caressing you. Just south of it is the superb Sea Battle Museum (海战博
G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • H ǔ m é n 607
物馆; Hǎizhàn Bówùguǎn; %550 0322; admission Y20; h 8.30am-5.30pm). Exhibitions in four large halls examine the naval battle of the First Opium War through scale models, dioramas, simulated battle scenes and massive artwork, most with explanatory notes in English. Bus 9 goes to Wei-yuan Island and has stops on Humen Dadao, Hǔmén’s main thoroughfare. Get off at the last stop. Buses link Hǔmén’s long-distance bus station on Yong’an Lu with Dōngguǎn (Y8, 30 minutes), Guǎngzhōu (Y42, 1½ hours), Shēnzhèn (Y40 to Y42, 1½ hours) and Zhūhǎi (Y50 to Y65, two hours).
SHĒNZHÈN 深圳
%0755 / pop 14 million
Immediately across Hong Kong’s northern border is Shēnzhèn, China’s wealthiest city and a ‘Special Economic Zone’ (SEZ). The city draws a mix of businessmen, investors and illegal migrant workers to its golden gates, all of them trying to find a place in China’s economic miracle. Though commercially successful, Shēnzhèn isn’t a pleasant city and the extreme imbalance between wealth and poverty lends an air of desperation. The crime rate is high and visitors should be wary of walking alone after dark. Most travellers give the place a wide berth, but it is a useful transportation hub if you’re coming from Hong Kong. You can buy a five-day, Shēnzhènonly visa at the Luóhú border (h9am-10pm), Americans excluded.
DIRTY FOREIGN MUD
GUǍNGDŌNG
Although trade in opium had been banned in China by imperial decree at the end of the 18th century, the cohong (local merchants’ guild) in Guǎngzhōu helped ensure that the trade continued, and fortunes were amassed on both sides. When the British East India Company lost its monopoly on China trade in 1834, imports of the drug increased to 40,000 chests a year. In 1839 the Qing government sent Imperial Commissioner Lin Zexu to stamp out the opium trade once and for all. Lin successfully blockaded the British in Guǎngzhōu and publicly burned the ‘foreign mud’ in Hǔmén. Furious, the British sent an expeditionary force of 4000 men from the Royal Navy to exact reparations and secure favourable trade arrangements. What would become known as the First Opium War began in June 1840 when British forces besieged Guǎngzhōu and forced the Chinese to cede five ports to the British. With the strategic city of Nanking (Nánjīng) under immediate threat, the Chinese were forced to accept Britain’s terms in the Treaty of Nanking. The treaty abolished the monopoly system of trade, opened the ‘treaty ports’ to British residents and foreign trade, exempted British nationals from all Chinese laws and ceded the island of Hong Kong to the British ‘in perpetuity’. The treaty, signed in August 1842, set the scope and character of the unequal relationship between China and the West for the next half-century.
608 G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • S h ē n z h è n
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History
which extends several kilometres north of the SEZ.
Shēnzhèn was no more than a backwater until it won the equivalent of the National Lottery and became a SEZ in 1980. Developers added a stock market, hotels and towering office blocks and the world as Shēnzhèn knew it came to an abrupt end. Nowadays Shēnzhèn is a big shopping mall for Hong Kong residents. It’s also a good place for cheap (legitimate and otherwise) massage and yum cha.
Information Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng; 2022 Jianshe Lu; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) China Travel Service (CTS; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; %2519 2595; 3023 Renmin Nanlu; h9am-6pm) Great Land International Travel Service (Jùbāng Guójì Lǚxíngshè; %2515 5555; 3rd fl, Junting Hotel, 3085 Shennan Donglu; h10am-6pm) Good for plane tickets. HSBC (Huìfēng Yínháng; ground fl, Shangri-La Hotel, 1002 Jianshe Lu; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat) Post office (yóujú; 3040 Jianshe Lu; h8am-8pm) Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gōng’ānjú; %2446 3999; 4018 Jiefang Lu) SZ Party (www.shenzhenparty.com) For current events in Shēnzhèn.
Orientation The name Shēnzhèn refers to three areas: Shenzhen City (Shēnzhèn Shì), opposite the border crossing at Luóhú; the Shenzhen SEZ; and Shenzhen County (Shēnzhèn Xiàn),
SH‹NZHÈN
0 0
1 km 0.5 miles
24 To Dafen Village (4km); Guangzhou (158km)
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Sights Shēnzhèn is known more for business than culture and historical scenes but there are a few interesting places to visit. Out in ‘Overseas Chinese Town’ (Huáqiáo Chéng) the OCT Contemporary Art Terminal (Huáqiáochéng Dāngdài Yìshù Zhōngxīn; %2691 1976; Enping Lu, Overseas Chinese Town; admission free; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) is an excellent museum with exhibits of
international and local contemporary Chinese artists. The pub scene thrives here as well. Take metro line 1 to Qiáochéng Dōng station. West of Shenzhen City and about halfway to Shékǒu are three ageing theme parks. Splendid China (Jǐnxiù Zhōnghuá; %2660 0626; admission Y120; h9am-9.30pm) is a humdrum assembly of China’s sights in miniature. Contiguous to it and included in the admission price is China Folk Culture Villages (Zhōngguó Mínzú Wénhuà Cūn). Diminutive famous monuments of the world are admired at Window of the World (Shìjiè Zhīchuāng; %2660 8000; admission Y120; h9am-10.30pm). The parks can be reached by metro line 1 to ‘Window of the World’ station (Shìjiè Zhīchuāng Zhàn).
Sleeping Hotels in Shēnzhèn commonly slash as much as 50% off the regular rack rates on weekdays, though you should ask for a discount at any time. This is also partially offset by the 10% or 15% tax/service charge levied by many hotels. All hotels have in-room broadband. Shenzhen Loft Youth Hostel (Shēnzhèn Qiáochéng Lǚyǒu Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè; %2694 9443; www.yhachina .com; 3 Enping Jie, Huaqiaocheng; 华侨城恩平街3栋; dm Y60, d without bathroom Y138, s & d Y158; ai) This
friendly HI hostel is located in the vibrant OCT Contemporary Art Terminal. Rooms are
simple and spotless. The entrance is behind the Konka building. Junting Hotel (Jùntíng Jiǔdiàn; %8235 1666; www .juntinghotel.com; 3085 Shennan Donglu; 深南东路 3085号; d Y288-537; ai) Centrally located, this small hotel is recently renovated and has adequate-sized rooms. Streetside rooms can be noisy, but interior rooms are quiet. Sunshine Hotel (Yángguāng Jiǔdiàn; %8223 3888; www.sunshinehotel.com; 1 Jiabin Lu; 嘉宾路1号; s & d Y1600-1800, ste Y2600-3200; ais) The exterior of the hotel may not impress you, but its highstandard service and rooms will. Rooms are modern and comfy and better views can be found on the 8th floor or above.
Eating Because of the influx of migrants and the proximity of Hong Kong, Shēnzhèn has a wide selection of restaurants representing various styles of Chinese and international cuisines. Muslim Hotel Restaurant (穆斯林宾馆大餐馆; Mùsīlín Bīnguǎn Dà Cānguǎn; %8225 9664; ground fl, Muslim Hotel, 2013 Wenjing Nanlu; dishes Y30-62; h10am-11pm) If
you fancy trying Hui (Chinese Muslim) food (eg various beef and mutton dishes), head for this hotel done up like a mock mosque. What’s more, it’s all halal. To get there, take minibus 430. Phoenix House (凤凰楼; Fènghuánglóu; %8207 6688, 8207 6338; East Wing, Shèngtíngyuàn Jiǔdiàn, 4002 Huaqiang Beilu; dim sum Y60-80, meals Y100-350; h7.30ammidnight) One of the top Cantonese restaurants
in town, north of Huáqiáng Běi shopping area. Expect rowdy waits of up to a half-hour or more after 11.30am. Use exit A of the Huaqianglu metro. Made In Kitchen (Chúfáng Zhìzào; %8261 1639; 7th fl, Kingglory Plaza, 2028 Renmin Lu; appetisers Y8-88, mains
TRANSPORT Muslim Hotel Restaurant 〚ᮃᵫᆒ佚令佚 ........................9 D3 Buses to Dafen Village.................(see 18) Buses to Dapeng Fortress .............15 B2 Buses to Shékǒu ...............................16 C3 DRINKING Hualian Hotel (Buses to Airport) True Color ᴀ㡆 ................................10 C3 ढ㘨ॺ ........................................ 17 A3 Local Bus Station..............................18 C4 ENTERTAINMENT Local Minibuses................................19 C4 C Union ḍഄ䜦৻................................... 11 A3 Long Distance Bus Station ռ⼒ᅶ䖤キ...................................20 C4 Citic City Plaza ЁֵජᏖᑓഎ.............................. 12 A3 Luohu Bus Station SLEEPING 㔫≑䔺キ....................................21 C4 Junting Hotel 偣ᒁ䜦ᑫ................... 6 C3 SHOPPING Shangri-La Hotel Sunshine Hotel 䰇ܝ䜦ᑫ ............... 7 C3 Dongmen Market 佭Ḑ䞠ᢝ䜦ᑫ ..........................22 C4 ϰ䮼Ꮦഎ ........................................13 C3 Taxi Stands .........................................23 C4 EATING Luohu Commercial City Yinhu Bus Station Made in Kitchen ॼ᠓ࠊ䗴 ............. 8 C3 㔫ଚϮජ....................................14 C4 䫊ᅶ䖤キ................................... 24 A1
GUǍNGDŌNG
INFORMATION Bank of China Ё䫊㸠ߚ㸠......... 1 C3 CTS ⏅ഇЁᮙ㸠⼒........................ 2 C3 Great Land International Travel Service Ꮌ䙺ᮙ......................... (see 6) HSBC ∛Є䫊㸠..............................(see 22) Post Office 䚂ሔ.................................. 3 C3 Public Security Bureau ݀ᅝሔ ............................................... 4 B3 Visa Office (Luohu) ............................ 5 C4
G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • S h ē n z h è n 609
610 G U Ǎ N G D Ō N G • • S h ē n z h è n
Y48-208; h9.30am-11.30pm) This stylish restaurant
specialises in Southeast Asian fusion cuisine. The menu is a feast for the eyes and palate, with over 400 diverse choices such as samosas, sashimi and steak.
Drinking Most top-end hotels have internationalstyle bars. In town there are also a bunch of places around Citic City Plaza (Zhōngxìn Chéngshì Guǎngchǎng). Take the metro to Kēxué Guǎn. You can also find a cluster of pubs and restaurants with different cuisines further afield in Shekou (Shékǒu), including McCawley’s Irish Bar & Restaurant (%2668 4496; shop 118, Sea World; h11.30am-2am), off Taizi Lu, with a great rooftop beer garden. To reach Shékǒu, board bus 204 or 226 from the city centre.
At the edge of Luóhú district is Huáqiáng Běi (华强北), a living, breathing eBay for those on the hunt for electronics. The area here abounds with blocks of buildings crammed with tiny booths selling the latest tech gadgets and computer components at rock-bottom prices. Take exit A at Huaqianglu station. A visit to Dafen Village (大芬村; Dàfēncūn) at Bùjí, Lónggǎng district), is definitely eye-opening: 600 art-packed stores, 8000 skilled artists and 5000 freshly painted Mona Lisas every week. Others include Van Goghs and Rembrandts – any famous masterpiece you can imagine. Prices range from Y200 to Y700. Bus 106 from Luóhú takes you to the village in an hour. A taxi ride costs around Y40 to Y60.
Getting There & Away
Entertainment
AIR
For pop-music-free entertainment, C Union
Shēnzhèn airport (Shēnzhèn Jīchǎng; %2777 6789; www.szairport.com) is now China’s fourth-busiest. There are flights to most major destinations around China.
(Gēnjùdì Jiǔbā; %8363 3533; 1019 Shanbu Nanlu; h7pm2am) is where rebellious local bands jam every
night, a 10-minute walk from Citic City Plaza. The music usually starts at 10pm. Clubbers should check out one of the locals’ favourites, True Color (Běnsè; %8230 1833; 4th fl, Golden World, 2001 Jiefang Lu; h9am-1am), where DJs turn the beat around night after night.
Shopping
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Shopping is the sole reason many people visit Shēnzhèn. An invaluable book to guide you is Shop in Shenzhen: An Insider’s Guide (HK$95/US$12) by Ellen McNally, available in bookshops throughout Hong Kong. You are guaranteed not to leave Shēnzhèn emptyhanded, though the quality can vary. Be ready to haggle. The first port of call for most is the overrated Luohu Commercial City (Luóhú Shāngyèchéng; h6.30am-midnight), which greets visitors as they emerge from customs and immigration. Here you will find five storeys of shopping insanity, with corridor after corridor of stalls selling ceramics, curios, knock-off handbags, clothing, wigs, massages and pirated DVDs. Another shopping quarter is at Dōngmén, a chaotic market popular for tailored suits and skirts, and cheap ready-to-wear clothes, with competitive prices. Be extremely careful of pickpockets. By metro, get off at Laojie station and leave from exit A.
BOAT
There are nine jetcat departures daily between Shekou port (% 2669 5600) and Hong Kong (Y110, 50 minutes) between 7.45am and 9pm. Seven of these go to the Macau ferry pier in Central, one heads for the China ferry terminal in Kowloon, and one for Tuen Mun (Y38, 30 minutes) at 2.30pm. The same number of boats leave Hong Kong for Shékǒu from 7.45am to 8.30pm. Chikong Passenger Transport (%2669 1213) runs hourly ferries (Y260, 30 minutes, 7.45am to 8.15pm) from Shékǒu to Hong Kong International Airport. There is one departure to Kowloon’s China ferry terminal (Y190) from the Fuyong ferry terminal (Fúyǒng kèyùnzhàn; Shenzhen airport) at 4.30pm, and five to Skypier in Hong Kong Airport between 8.15am and 6.30pm (1st/ 2nd class Y364/272, one hour). You can also reach Zhūhǎi (Y95, one hour) from Shékǒu every half-hour between 7.30am and 9.30pm. BUS
Intercity buses leave from Luohu bus station (Luóhú qìchēzhàn) under the shopping centre. There are regular services to Cháozhōu (Y150, 5½ hours), Guǎngzhōu (Y60, two hours),
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Hǔmén (Y42, one hour), Shàntóu (Y170, four hours) and Xiàmén (Y240 to Y303, eight hours). For information on getting to/ from Hong Kong, see p555. TRAIN
There are frequent bullet trains (Y80 to Y100, 52 minutes) between Guǎngzhōu and Shēnzhèn. The MTR offers the most convenient transport to Shēnzhèn from Hong Kong (see p556).
Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Shēnzhèn’s airport is 36km west of the city. Airport buses (Y20, 30 to 40 minutes) leave from the Hualian Hotel (Huálián Dàshà; Shennan Zhonglu), which can be reached on bus 101. A taxi to the airport will cost Y130 to Y150. Many of the top-end hotels, including the Shangri-La, run shuttles to/from Hong Kong International Airport (one way/return Y180/320). PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Shēnzhèn has an efficient network of buses and minibuses (Y1 to Y3). From the train station, bus 12 heads north and then west to Huáqiáng Běi, and bus 101 goes west to the Window of the World. Bus 204 to Shékǒu leaves from a station north of the intersection of Jianshe Lu and Jiabin Lu. Shēnzhèn has two metro lines (tickets are between Y2 and Y5). Line 1, most useful for visitors, covers the stretch from the Luóhú border crossing to the Window of the World theme park. Extensions to Shékǒu and the airport are expected to be complete by 2010 and 2011, respectively. Line 2 serves Huanggang station, at Futian Port, where passengers can change to/from Lok Ma Chau station in Hong Kong. TAXI
AROUND SHĒNZHÈN
It is refreshing to visit the remote Dapeng Fortress (大鹏所城; Dàpéng Sǔochéng; %0755-8431 5618; Pengcheng Village, Dapeng Town, Longgang District; adult/student & senior Y20/10; h10am-6pm) to the east
of Shēnzhèn. This fortified town was built 600 years ago and is best known as a key battle site in the Opium Wars of the 19th century. It’s still a lively village with dwellings occupied by both the locals and migrants. From Shēnzhèn, board bus 360 at Yinhu bus terminal (Yínhú Chēzhàn), which also stops near China Regency Hotel (Dìháo Jiǔdiàn) at Sungangdong Lu. The journey takes about 90 minutes. Alight at the terminal at Huilian Superstore (惠联百货; Huìlián Bǎihuò) at Wangmu (王母; Wángmǔ) and change to minibus 966. It takes another 10 minutes to get to Dapeng. Bus 360 runs until 7pm.
SHÀNTÓU 汕头
%0754 / pop 4.9 million
Shàntóu is one of China’s five original SEZs. It’s a port on the border with Fújiàn and seldom visited by travellers. The people who live here and in Cháozhōu are largely Chiu Chow. They speak a dialect called Teochew (Chaoshan in Mandarin, a combination of Cháozhōu and Shàntóu, the two most important cities here), which is completely different from Cantonese. It is the language of many of the Chinese in Southeast Asia, especially those who emigrated to Thailand and Cambodia.
History As early as the 18th century, the East India Company had a station on an island outside the harbour of Shàntóu. By the mid-19th century it had grown into an important trading port known to the outside world as Swatow. The port was officially opened to foreign trade in 1860 under the Treaty of Tientsin, which ended the Second Opium War.
Orientation Most of Shàntóu lies on a peninsula, bounded to the south by the South China Sea and separated from the mainland to the west and north by a river and canals. Most tourist amenities are in the southwestern corner of the peninsula.
Information Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng; 98 Jinsha Lu; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) China Travel Service (CTS; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; %863 6332; 41 Shanzhang Lu; h8am-9.30pm) Bus and air tickets are sold at this office next to the Shantou Overseas Chinese Hotel. Post office (yóujú; Waima Lu; h8am-6pm)
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The taxi flag fall is Y12.50 (Y16.10 from 11pm to 6am). It’s then Y0.60 for every additional 250m travelled. Taxi drivers have a poor reputation in Shēnzhèn – make sure they turn on the meter. Women should avoid travelling solo in taxis at night.
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Sights In Shàntóu a few old, derelict colonial buildings can be seen in the area bounded by Waima Lu, Minzu Lu and Shengping Lu. The centrepiece of Stone Fort Park (Shí Pàotái Gōngyuán; Haibin Lu; admission Y2; h7.30am-11pm), which faces the sea, is a battery with solid walls and loopholes built in 1874. The fort is surrounded by a moat.
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Sleeping Shantou Overseas Chinese Hotel (Shàntóu Huáqiáo Dàshà; %8891 1111; fax 8825 2223; 41 Shanzhang Lu; 汕 樟路41号; d Y168-268, ai) This rambling hotel is conveniently located south of the city bus station and fills up fast. All but the cheaper rooms have broadband service. Swatow Peninsula Hotel (Tuódǎo Bīnguǎn; %8831 6668; www.pihotel.com; 36 Jinsha Lu; 金沙路36号; r Y388788, ste from Y988; a) This Thai-Chinese joint venture has smarter rooms than its lobby and facade. You should be able to get a single or double for Y220. Meritus (Shàntóu Jūnhuá Dàjiǔdiàn; %8819 1188; www .meritusshantou.com; Jinsha Lu; 金沙东路; r Y1610-1840, ste from Y12,070; ai) A favourite with business
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travellers, this is the best five-star place to stay in Shàntóu. Rates can drop as low as Y540. Free shuttles to the airport are available.
Eating The Chiu Chow have a distinct cuisine that makes great use of seafood and accompanying sauces. A few specialities include chiu jau lou sui ngoh (潮州卤水鹅; Cháozhōu lǔshuǐ’é; Chiu Chow soy goose), O luah (蚝 烙; háolào; oyster omelette) and tong tso yi min (糖醋伊面; tángcù yīmiàn; sweet-andsour pan-fried egg noodles). And no meal here is complete without thimble-sized cups of strong and bitter gongfu cha, a fermented oolong tea called ‘Iron Bodhisattva’. Piāoxiāng Xiǎoshídiàn (%8836 2960; 39 Guoping Lu; meals from Y15; h7am-8pm) Established since 1965, this Chiu Chow snack specialist is always a local favourite. Try the O luah, as well as different types of Chiu Chow dumplings like Chiu Chow fun guo (潮州粉粿; Cháozhōu fěnguǒ; steamed dumplings filled with radish and peanuts) and chai tao kway (菜头粿; càitouguǒ; fried radish dumplings).
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If your Chinese isn’t up to it, let your fingers do the talking. Chaozhou Restaurant (Cháozhōu Càiguǎn; %854 6498; 2 Changping Lu; meals from Y35; h11am-9pm) This is an excellent place to try Chiu Chow specialities such as soy goose and fried noodles. You can also sample the food in a positively frenetic night market (Fuping Lu) with an entire street of food stalls just west of Minzu Lu.
Getting There & Away AIR
Shàntóu airport, 20km northeast of the centre, has flights to Bangkok and Hong Kong (Y2090, twice daily). Domestic destinations include Běijīng, Guǎngzhōu (Y660), Guìlín, Hǎikǒu, Nánjīng and Shànghǎi. A taxi will cost about Y40 from the centre. BUS
Buses arrive at and depart from the longdistance bus station (Shàntóu shěng qìchēzhàn; Huoche Lu) and the more central city station behind CTS and the Shantou Overseas Chinese Hotel. Destinations include Fúzhōu (Y150, seven hours), Guǎngzhōu (Y100 to Y150, six hours), Shēnzhèn (Y150, four hours) and Xiàmén (Y90, four hours). Buses to Hong Kong (Y150, five hours) leave from the city bus station, with tickets only available at the CTS. Minibuses to Cháozhōu (Y11, one hour) leave from a small office just south of the city station. TRAIN
There are two daily trains between Shàntóu and Guǎngzhōu (Y143 to Y173, seven hours) and five trains to Cháozhōu (Y10, 30 minutes). The station is 5km to the east of the centre.
Getting Around Bus 2 links the centre with the train station via Jinsha Lu. Pedicabs and motorbikes are plentiful; flag fall is Y5. Two sights on the outskirts of Shàntóu are worth visiting. The Cultural Revolution Museum (文革博物馆 ; Wēngé Bówùguǎn; admission Y10; h9.30am-5.30pm), atop Tashan Park (塔山风 景区; Tǎshānfēngjǐngqū) 25km north of the city centre, is a private museum founded in
2005 by survivors of the Cultural Revolution. A sobering reminder of the tragedy, this is so far the only museum in China honouring the victims. Their names, inscriptions and murals of the era are engraved on the walls, leaving many visitors of the older generations (especially those who went through the revolution) in tears. Unfortunately there are no English explanations yet. To get there, board bus 102 on Jinsha Lu and tell the driver to drop you at Tǎshān. Then it’s another 3½km walk uphill. To rent a taxi, it costs about Y200 (return). Located midway between Cháozhōu and Shàntóu, Chen Cihong Memorial Home (陈慈黉故 居; Chén Cíhóng Gùjū; admission Y16; h8am-5.30pm) was the residence of a wealthy overseas Chinese businessman who made his fortune in rice trade in Hong Kong and Thailand in the 19th century. The huge complex, built in 1901, is an eccentric but aesthetically pleasing mix and match of Western architecture and Chinese feng shui. Bus 103, which leaves from the east side of People’s Sq in Shàntóu, will take you there.
CHÁOZHŌU 潮州
%0768 / pop 2.5 million
A much prettier city than Shàntóu, Cháozhōu was once an ancient trading and cultural hub in southern China rivalling Guǎngzhōu. Today, it still preserves its distinct dialect, cuisine and opera. It is situated on the Han River (Hán Jiāng) and surrounded on three sides by the Jīn Shān (Golden Hills) and Húlu Shān (Calabash Hills).
Sights Head to the tightly winding lanes in the old town around Zhongshan Lu and Changli Lu. Here you’ll find an eclectic mixture of neatly kept colonial and traditional Chinese architecture, with some buildings bearing stonework that dates back to the Ming dynasty. The former Confucian Academy (Hǎiyángxiàn Rúxuégōng; Changli Lu; admission Y4; h8am-5pm), now a museum with an interesting collection of old photos, is a good place to orientate yourself before you set out on your walk. Cháozhōu’s most famous attraction is the active Kaiyuan Temple (Kāiyuán Sì; admission Y5; h6am-5pm). Built in AD 738, the temple was recently renovated and expanded to house more Buddhas and arhats, including a huge 1000-arm Guanyin (see p325).
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decorated rooms to choose from. Rooms are routinely discounted by as much as 50%.
Cháozhōu’s old city wall (gǔ chéng), the ramparts of which offer great views of the city, runs along the river for almost 2.5km and is interrupted by four ornate fortifications, including Guangji Gate Tower (Guǎngjǐmén Lóu; admission Y10; h9am-5.20pm), which displays the history of the construction of Guangji Bridge. On the east bank of the Han and beyond Guangji Bridge (Guǎngjǐ Qiáo; admission Y60), first erected in the Song dynasty, is Hanwen Temple (Hánwéngōng Sì; admission Y5), which commemorates the Tangdynasty poet and philosopher Han Yu, who was banished to ‘far-flung’ Guǎngdōng for his outspoken views against Buddhism.
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Cháozhōu is best visited as a day trip from Shàntóu. Yunhe Hotel (Yúnhé Dàjiǔdiàn; %213 6128; 26 Xihe Lu; 西河路26号; d Y135-200; a) This hotel offers nonfancy, run-of-the-mill rooms but remains a good budget option. Chaozhou Hotel (Cháozhōu Bīnguǎn; %233 3333; fax 238 2888; www.chaozhouhotel.com; cnr Chaofeng Lu & Yonghu Lu; 潮枫路与永护路交界; s/d Y618/718; ai)
This large complex has a variety of elegantly GUǍNGDŌNG
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Cháozhōu has a collection of restaurants where you can try some local Chiu Chow dishes. One of the best places in town is Cíyuàn Jiǔjiā (%225 3990; Huancheng Beilu; mains Y3040; h11.30am-9.30pm), close to West Lake Park. Some superb dishes to try are the steamed crab and fish balls in soup. For snacks, make sure to head to the hole-in-the-wall Hú Róng Quán (Taiping Lu; h8am-late), a short walk north from Kaiyuan Temple. Moon cakes and spring rolls are the top items here; those with a sweet tooth should try the gooey lotuspaste buns. Buses link Cháozhōu’s west bus station with Shàntóu (Y11, one hour). Buses also depart from here for Guǎngzhōu (Y178, 5½ hours), Shēnzhèn (Y174, 4½ hours) and Xiàmén (Y70 to Y100, 3½ hours). Cháozhōu’s train station is 8km west of the centre; there are two trains a day to Guǎngzhōu (Y137 to Y167, 6½ hours), leaving at 9.47am and 10.22am. A taxi to the station will cost Y15.
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