1 Hydrogen - Boost Mileage Enchancement System Operator’s Manual Disclaimer : any modification to a licensed motor vehicle is at the risk of the operator. Any entanglement s with the law and law enforcemen t officials is the responsibility of the operator. Any licensing, regulation, prohibition, or other entanglement s with the governing authorities is the responsibility of the operator. Modifications to any motor vehicle, licensed or not, come with a risk, and the manufacturer of any device should inform the operator that there is a risk involved. This is the intent of this disclaimer. Modifications of the fuel system may cause hazards that are not ordinarily present with a stock system. Fuel is flammable and any spilling of fuel caused by modifications is dangerous. Heating or aspirating combustion air, or fuel air mix may be dangerous or may cause damage to an engine. Under some rare instances, like exrended operation at wide open throttle, running an engine att too lean a fuel/air mixture can burn the valves or cause some tother damage to the engine. Hydrogen, though not as explosive as gasoline, is explosive, especially in the hydrogen / oxygen mix tat is produced by some hydrogen cells. For this reason no work should be done on a hydrogen cell when there is electricity applied to it or when there is a risk of spark in the immediate area. Hydrogen cells should always be operated under a vacuum that immediately transfers the hydrogen gas into an operating engine where it is safely ignited. Hydrogen gas should not be allowed to accumulate, especially when it is in a mixture with oxygen. If a hydrogen cell is leaking, forced ventilation should be used to dissipate the gas before any work is done on it, especially if any chance or spark or ignition is presented to the immediate environment. Fuel saving devices and mileage enhanceme n t devices, added to a motor vehicle may not all be self adjusting as the original equipmen t of modern motor vehicles. Some experimenta tion and adjust me n t may be required before any fuel savings are realized. Failure to make the proper adjustme n ts may even reduce the efficiency of your vehicle. Some modern electronically controlled systems are very difficult to apply fuel saving devices to. I believe some are intentionally designed to prevent fuel saving devices from being effective. My first month experiment with a hydrogen cell on my Dodge Dakota, fuel injected, six- cylinder engine resulted in two month of experimenta tion before I realized any fuel savings. During this time the hydrogen cell actually made my gas mileage worse. When I understoo d the fuel system of this particular vehicle, I understood why this happene d. I now get substa ntial improved gas mileage. On some vehicles a hydrogen cell has more than doubled the gas mileage without any other adjustme n t s or modifications. One Honda in Canada is reportedly getting 115 miles per gallon, with just the addition of a hydrogen cell that produces one liter of mixed gas (hydrogen and oxygen) every 3- 4 minutes. Most of our cells will produce six to eight times this amoun t of gas. On some vehicles there is a critical amount of hydrogen gas that must be introduced before any savings is realized. We have not experimented with all kinds of vehicles so you may have to figure out what works best on your vehicle. Sometimes that same make and model of vehicle will react differently depen ding on fuel brand, atmosphe ric conditions and even location.

Most fuel savings are brought about by small changes. Rarely will a vehicle experience a doubling of gas mileage with only the addition of one device. This is why most fuel saving devices you see marketed, especially on the internet, claim modest improvement s of 10 %, 20 %, even 30 %. Some of these work and some are superficial. If our devices do not seem to work on your vehicle and you don’t have the time to experiment properly to work out the bugs to save enough money on fuel, then please send your undamaged device back within 30 days for a full refund. Our business is dependent upon satisfied customers, whether the realize fuel savings or not. You will still bell allowed to sell our devices to others for a profit or get a referral fee.

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Any customer interested in fuel saving devices should also be interested in fuel savings in general. If you are not, you should not be wasting your money on devices. Il you are truly interested in saving fuel then you should study this next section, which is given to you for free. Even if you return your fuel saving device, you will still get to keep this information tat will be applicable to every vehicle you drive for the rest your life. This information alone may save you thousan d s of dollars in fuel costs over your lifetime and is worth the price you paid for the device, even if it doesn’t meet your expectations.

Driving Habits and Clues to Fuel Savings The way you drive will be the single most important factor in saving fuel. You can add all the greatest fuel saving devices in the world and negate the benefit of all of them by driving in a manner that minimizes their savings, leaving you with little or no savings. It’s up to you. It’s like installing all new mini /florescent lighting devices in your home and the leaving the lights on when you leave the room or go away for a week. Would you expect to save on your utility bill if you did that ? Of course not, and you can’t expect to save on your automobile fuel bill if you add devices and drive like a race car driver. Here are some helpful hints that will improve your gas mileage, with a few explanations of the scientific principles behind the hints. Keep your vehicle clean, inside and out. If you are carrying around a lot of junk inside your vehicle, every time you stop you must accelerate all that extra weight. F=MA, force equals mass times acceleration. The les mass (weight) you carry around, the less force required to get it moving. A clean, polished outside will allow your car to slip through the air with less drag. The cleaner the outside of the car the lower the coefficient of drag and the less fuel you will use. This also applies to other drag inducing items including open windows, extra antenna s, roof racks, decorative spoilers, ice, snow and mud. Keep your vehicle as free of extra drag as possible. If you drive a pick up truck, drive it with the tailgate down or install a tarp /c over on the bed. Keep the air filter, oil filter, oil, and fuel filters clean for best efficiency. One of our tests showed that the addition of 650 poun ds of extra weight and a bicycle on a trunk mounted rack decreased the mileage of our Saab 9000 Turbo by 19 % Keep your vehicle warm.

There are numerous fluids in your vehicle that are designed to operate at relatively high temperat ure. Engine oil, trans mission fluid or gear oil, rear end gear oil, and grease on any moving part including your wheel bearings, all create internal drag when they operate at less than optimal temperat u re. A warm vehicle will produce less drag internally. Also the sooner a vehicle reaches its optimu m operating temperature the sooner it will get its best gas mileage. A cold vehicle doesn’t vaporize the fuel to be burned efficiently. If you have a garage, use it, not only to keep your vehicle clean, but warm. Even if the garage is not heated, a warm vehicle parked in it at night will mean a warmer vehicle in the morning. That hot car will heat the garage somewhat. Even if the car is 40 degrees in the morning instead of 20 degrees, that will improve your gas mileage. If you don’t have au garage, cover your vehicle in cold weather with a tarp or blanket. It is surprising how much heat this will keep in the vehicle, plus it will keep the frost, snow, and ice off the vehicle. An engine heater is not a fuel waster if used properly. A core heater, block heater, or other engine warming device will heat up your vehicle cheaper than operating the vehicle will. You can place an electric engine heater on a timer so that it doesn’t waste energy overnight. Most heaters take 30 to 60

3 minutes to heat up an engine. An added benefit is that you’ll have instant heat when you start your engine. Do not start your engine long before you drive in order to warm the engine. This is a big waste of fuel; you are getting zero miles per gallon while doing this. Only wehen it is extremely cold (below zero) should you wait more than 30 to 45 seconds before driving. When your engine is extremely cold, start off slower and give the fluids a chance to warm up without straining the engine. Obviously if a cold car wastes fuel, then combining trips to cut down the number of times you warm up you vehicle will also save fuel. Stopping at the store on the way home from work instead of making an extra trip will probably save enough fuel to drive one mile. Many short trips will give you half the gas mileage as one long trip. Slow down, both in top speed and in acceleration. The wind resistance of a vehicle increases with the square of the speed. The wind resistance at 70 miles per hour is twice the wind resistance at 50 miles per hour, which is twice the resistance at 35 miles per hour. On short trips and between stops the rate at which you accelerate is even more importan t than your top to speed. Acceleration from zero to 60 miles per hour in 10 seconds will use more fuel than acceleration from zero to 60 miles per hour in twenty seconds, and coverless ground in doing so. A slow constant acceleration will save you lots of fuel. Coast Once you have built up your kinetic energy (KE=1 /2MV² kinetic energy equal one half mass times velocity squared) use it to transpor t your vehicle. Every time you use your brakes you throw away your kinetic energy. Rather than cramming on the brakes to stop, plan ahead and coast with your foot completely or partially off the accelerator petal as you approach a stop or a turn. When coasting at idle throttle, do so in neutral or with the clutch disengaged. The smoother the ride the better the gas mileage. Two devices you can install in your vehicle to help you drive smoother are a vacuum gauge and an accelerometer. The vacuum gauge attaches to your intake manifold and tells you the amount of vacuum in your intake. The higher the vacuum the less fuel you are using. On a typical vacuum gauge and a typical vehicle it is best

to keep the needle between 5 and 15 inches vacuum. On my test runs I try to keep the needle between 10 and 15 inches. The accelerometer is a device you can make yourself with a wire coat hanger and a weight on a string. It will tell you when your acceleration is too fast and it will also tell you when your braking is too hard and your turning is too fast. To make an accelerometer just bend up a wire coat hanger into a tripod or other type frame that will be used to suspend a small weight ‘1/4’’ nut is fine) on a thread from the top of the frame. Near the botto m of the frame rig a wire ring inside the frame that your nut will hang inside of. Start off with a three - inch diameter ring and later decrease the size of the ring as you get better at saving fuel. Mount this frame / ring / p e n d ul u m on your dashboar d where you can see it easily. Fastened it so that the nut is hanging in the middle of the ring when you are sitting still. Now drive such that the nut / t h re a d never touches the ring. If you really want to get sophisticated you could use a thin wire instead of thread and rig up a buzzer or bell that would go off any time the nut /wire touches the ring. This would be a warning device to tell you when you are accelerating / s t o p p ing / t u r ning too fast. This device will not only help you get better gas mileage, but it will make your ride much more comfortable / s m o o t h e r. Your passengers will appreciate it. If you really want to do this exercise with some purpose, put a full cup of hot coffee on your dashboar d just above your lap, and drive without spilling it. I’m just kidding, this would be dangerous. Look ahead : There are many things you will learn while using the accelerometer to help you improve your driving. A lost of these I learned at the tutelage of my dad while he taught me how to drive in a three

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cylinder, two stroke Saab. It only had about 25 horsepower and we lived in the foothills of the Green Mountains of Vermont. The lesson I learned in getting up and down hills apply perfectly to high mileage driving. Look ahead sums them all up. When you see an uphill coming up ahead, don’t wait until you get to the bottom of that hill to push on the accelerator. Il you do, you will never keep the vacuum below 5 inches and you’ll never keep the nut inside the ring. You will have to floor the accelerator to even make it up the hill. This ruins your gas mileage. What you want to do, and what I had to do with the Saab is to gradually accelerate before the hill and carry some extra speed into the hill so that the Kinetic energy can be used to get you up the hill. As you get near the top of the hill you can back off the accelerator and “coast” over the top of the hill with somewhat less than normal speed. Why would I want to slow down at the top of a hill ? Because I have free Potential energy at the top of the hill that I can use to accelerate my vehicle down the other side of the hill without using up fuel to do so. PE=mgh Potential energy equals mass times the acceleration of gravity times the height of the vehicle from the botto m of the hill. When I get to the bottom of the hill this potential energy will have been converted to Kinetic energy that before I had to build up by burning gas. If I had crested the hill with my normal speed, I would have had to use my brakes going down the hill or build up excessive speed. Even this excessive speed is not efficiently used by coasting because while I am carrying the excessive speed the wind resistance is stealing it away from me faster than I can convert it to distance traveled.

When approaching a curve you want to slow, again without using the brakes, coast up to the curve and gradually accelerate after the curve, always keeping the nut inside the ring in your accelerometer. When approaching a traffic light or line of traffic, adjust your speed so that you won’t have to stop. Slow down gradually and time your traffic lights and congestion so that you get there with a clear road and as much speed as you could conserve during your approach. I won’t discuss stop signs much because efficient driving is contrary to stop sign protocol. I will say that taking off from a stop sign should be with a slow gradual acceleration as mentioned before. Shift early : I you have an automatic trans mission you have probably noticed that if you want the transmission to shift early you can help it along by momenta rily coming off the accelerator at the proper speed for each shift. Knowing the right time is part ok knowing your vehicle. If you have a tachometer you can encourage the trans mission to shift when you have 2000 - 2500 RPM. If you don’t have a tach, you can get used to the sound of your motor to apply this technique. For a manual trans mission you would like to shift when you get to 2000 2500 RPM which will put you in the next higher gear at around 1500 - 2000 RPM. Without a tach just shift so that your engine is not revving too much and so that in the next higher gear you still have enough torque to prevent your engine from bucking, hesitating, or drawing less than 5 inches of vacuum. When lugging down on a hill you may need to shift your automatic transmission into a lower gear manually to keep your engine running smoothly. Just remember to keep the vacuum between 5 and 15 inches or keep the nut inside the ring on your accelerometer. You will notice when you shift that the vacuum goes down when you shift to a higher gear. This is not a reason to stay in a lower gear to keep the vacuum high. This would only use more fuel because in the lower gear the engine is turning faster and sucking in gas on each revolution. At the higher gear selection you are at a lower vacuum but the lower RPM more than makes up for it, as long as you keep your vacuum above 5 inches. When stopped for a traffic light put the automatic trans mission in park. This lets the engine idle with the least resistance. If it’s going to be a long light shut off the engine. While you’re sitting there you’re getting zero miles per gallon. Never use the accelerator to hold your vehicle on a hill with an automatic trans mission or with a manual trans mission.

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Keep it working Vehicle maintenance is important to efficiency and long life. I used to buy vehicles that other people had already abused. Now I only buy those that I know the history of. If not new, I want to know how it was taken care of. Most importan t are oile changes. I insist on an oil and filter change every 3000 miles (5000 km). I haven’t really researched the gas mileage performa nce of different brands of oil. Il have heard that there is a difference but I don’t know if it’s worth using an expensive oil unless it is a synthetic oil. Il prefer to treat my engine every 25.000 miles with a true engine treatment. I was sold on Teflon back when Slick- 50, and you had to get it from a travelling salesman. I had a twin engine ultralight aircraft on which I treated only one engine. By the time I figured out the difference, I had lost the traitment for the other engine. To match the RPMs of the engines during flight I would have the throttle of

the treated engine back about ¼ of the way. Also when it was time to rebuild the engines the treated one tasted about six month on a four - year life. Since printing our original manual we have discovered that Slick- 50 is not Slick- 50 is not Dura Lube is not Prolong, etc. According to our new supplier Excel Plus, the Slick- 50 of the early 1980’s that I tested on my twin engine ultralight airplane is no longer sold. Apparently the engine treatme n t that took on the name Slick- 50 in the early 80’s split off from the partners hip that was made famous by the “Teflon” formula. In the early 80’s the company split up with one partner keeping the formula and the other keeping the name Slick- 50 which now is reportedly Teflon and oil but not the formula of the early 80’s that worked. You can read the whole story by following the link on our technical information page of the www.hydrogen - boost.com website. If your vehicle has a choke, make sure it is not sticking. A way to tell if it is sticking is black smoke in the exhaust, especially after five minutes of driving. Do not rev your engine when it is cold. This will wear the engine parts quickly. Do not idle your engine for long periods of time. It will carbon up your cylinder heads and wear down your cylinders because the rich idle mixture washes off the oil on the cylinder. Don’t rev your engine before shut down. In fact don’t rev your engine period. It puts stress on the engine that is designed to have a load on it when running at high RPM. Also the gas thrown in when revving will wash down the cylinders and lose the lubrication of the oil. Revving also causes gas to blow by the rings and contaminate your oil. If your vehicle isn’t fully electronic, make sure you tune it often enough to ensure proper operation. A tune up is cheaper than the wasted fuel and worn engine. If your vehicle has a carburetor there are many fuel saving tips and modifications available from Eagle Research. They are on the internet. Tires are a big factor to high mileage. I keep my tires pumped up to even higher than the manufacturer’s recomme n d a tions. I do this for two reasons. One, I have a couple of mag wheels that are porous and gradually leak air through the rims, and two, higher pressure means lower rolling friction from the tires. I use 40 - 50 psi. Deep tread tires look good but rob mileage. In the summer use summer tires, and don’t be in a hurry to change then when they are only half worn out. The less tread you have the better the gas mileage you will get. Automobile race drivers use tires with no tread (slicks) because they create less drag. Rain tires (with tread) increase the drag on a race car compared to slicks. Of course you don’t want to wear a tire down to the point where there is no tread. But changing the tires before they are worn down to the legal limit is a waste of tires and fuel. Radial tires are much better on gas than bias ply tires. Wheel alignment is critical. If your tires are wearing out in a certain pattern then you are wasting tires and gas. The energy it took to scuff those tires to cause the wear came from your fuel tank. Be sure you get four wheel alignment. Use the same size tire all around. In the summer use summer tires all aroun d.

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Using power accessories will lower your gas mileage, especially air conditioning. Driving with your windows down is not much better. A good compromise is to circulate cool outside air through your heater /ve n tilation system. Be gas wise Gasoline is sold by the gallon not by the poun d. Get your gas when it is the most dense. When it is cold, it is most dense. Early morning is the best time to get the most gas for the buck. Do not buy high- octane fuel unless it is require to keep your engine from spark knocking (pinging). Higher - octane fuels contain larger hydrocarbo n molecules, which take longer to burn. This will mean that some will burn in the exhaust pipe or catalytic converter instead of in your engine. Avoid filling the gas tank to the top. Gas is stored undergrou n d where it is cooler in the summer. If you fill up, the will expand when it warms up and some may overflow. Make sure your gas cap seals well and no fuel is ever leaking onto the ground, especially when sloshing around corners. Choose your road If you have a choice of routes, choose the one with the smoothes t road, the least hills, the least turns, the least traffic, and the least head wing. This may mean choosing a forested back road with no traffic rather than the open highway with lots of traffic and rough surfaces. Hey, you might find out that the drive home away from the rat race even helps you relax. Draft For those aggressive drivers that are not shy and afraid of a challenge, here is a technique used by NASCAR drivers. Let the traffic block the wind for you. The best way to do this is to tailgate a big truck that has very little road clearance. The less air going under the truck the better. The closer you tailgate the better. A good tailgater can increase his gas mileage by up to 50 %. Warning : this technique is not safe and it is probably illegal. Forget I even mentioned it.

The hydrogen – Booster The hydrogen cell is an integral part of the Hydrogen - Boost system but it is only part of the system required to appreciably increase the gas mileage of your vehicle. Some vehicles will require other compone n ts and some will adapt well to the hydrogen cell alone. Your vehicle will have to be experimente d with to find the most efficient system for its particular engine and electronic systems. The driving techniques just discussed are a major part of the Hydrogen - Boost system so be sure to incorporate them before expecting more than a 20 % increase in mileage. Let me first explain the scientific concepts involved in the Hydrogen - Boost system. Most engines are supplied with liquid fuel either by a carburettor or by and electronic fuel injection system controlled by an onboard compu ter. Liquid fuel does not burn. It must first be vaporized. Many systems have been developed over the past one hundred years to mix the gasoline with air to get the gas to vaporize. An essential part of the Hydrogen - Boost System is a pre - heater for the fuel inserted just before the injector rail or carburetor. My 100 - mile per gallon personal transport vehicle (based on a Honda 250 cc scooter) has a heated carburetor. The heat is supplied by circulating some of the engine coolant through the carburetor. Our pre - heater will dot the same thing. To install a crude pre - heater simply take a 3/16 inch or ¼ inch (match the size of your fuel line) and wrap the tubing aroun d your upper radiator hose at least ten times, making sure that the ends of the tubing will reach the fuel line where you intend to slice in. Splice in the tubing as close tot the

injector rail or carburetor as possible. Use pieces of rubber hose to make the splice or if you cut a section of rubber fuel line to make the splice, simply insert the tubing into the rubber fuel line.

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Be sure to install tight clamps to prevent leaking. Before tightening the clamp closest tot the injector rail or carburetor bleed the tubing by turning on the ignition a few times until the fuel pump fills the tubing with fuel. This will prevent you from having a very difficult time getting the engine started if the tubing is full of air. Be sure to insulate the pre - heater assembly with a suitable material. I used ½ inch thick foam carpet pad. This will keep the heat in the fuel where you want it. For installation of a more efficient fuel heater that brings the fuel up to optimu m temperat ure you can visit the Hydrogen - Boost web site and purchase one of the models available there. Be sure to install it according to the instructions that come with it.

The Hydrogen Cell As I mentioned before, the Hydrogen cell is an integral part of the Hydrogen - Boost system. In fact it is the most importan t part. For some vehicles it may be the only part. Let me give you some safety rules for the hydrogen cell. 1 – Do not energize the cell until it is properly installed to the vehicle 2 – Proper installation includes securely fastening it to the body/fra me / c h a s sis of the vehicle and running the tubing so that any hydrogen produced goes directly into a running engine. Wire the cell up through a 30 amp relay available from the auto parts store. It would be nice if you put a switch inside the cockpit with which you could shut off the cell when you see a problem. If you have it wired up to an accessory circuit that stays on when the key is on, don’t leave your key on unless the engine is running or your internal switch is shut off. My cell is hooked up to a circuit that automatically shuts off if the engine is not running. My fuel pump is on this same circuit, as are my ignition coil and my fuel injectors. It is good to install an ammeter in line with your cell so that you can tell when it is running correctly. This ammeter should be mounted inside the cockpit so you can monitor hydrogen cell production at all times. With proper adjust me n t of the electrolyte the cell should draw 20- 25 amps. If it draws less, you probably need to add water or electrolyte. If there is a sudden jump in the amps drawn you probably have a short inside the cell. Remove the cell, drain the electrolyte, and reassemble the cell according to the assembly instructions. Do not jury rig the cell. A spark inside the cell could cause it tot explode if there is not a vacuum taking the hydrogen away at the time. 3 - Whenever the cell has electricity going to it, be sure that the engine is running so that the hydrogen has a safe place to go. 4 – Do not ever open the cell with electricity running to it. It may EXPLODE. 5 – When refilling the cell be sure it is shut off. Use only distilled water. I use the water from my dehumidifier. Rain water in clean air areas and water that drips off you air conditioner are also distilled water. Fill the cell with distilled water every time you get gasoline. Using a soda bottle with a squirt pop top works good. Just squirt it into the fill hole.

6 – To adjust your electrolyte solution, add electrolyte a little bit at a time, and stir until the amps are at the correct level. 7 – Do not drill or screw into the cell to fasten it to the vehicle. This will cause a leak. Only use straps aroun d it to secure it to a bracket screwed tot the vehicle. 8 – Do not breathe the fumes from the cell. Even though hydrogen and oxygen are colorless and odourless gases there is an outpu t from the cell that irritates the inside of your nose or mouth if you breathe it. This may be from the electrolyte.

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9 – Only make recomme n d e d modifications to your vehicle. If you would like to try something new, e- mail us and we will give you our recomme n d a tion s. Remember that the Hydrogen - Boost system includes driving habits for good mileage. Use all the benefits of this system and you will be benefited for a lifetime.

Commission - Referral Policy Any customer who has purchase d a Hydrogen - Boost System, either directly from the factory or through an authorized salesperson, becomes eligible for a twenty percent sale commission / r eferral fee whenever they sell another Hydrogen - Boost System to another customer. To collect the commission, simply order the Hydrogen Boost System directly from the factory at a twenty - percent discount, and deliver it to your customer. Or if a new customer claims that they were referred to us by you and gives us your salesman authorization certificate number, we will send the 20% referral fee directly to you, upon receipt of sufficient funds and expiration of the 30 day return policy period. Sell 5 Hydrogen - Boost Systems and yours is paid for and you can enjoy a lifetime of fuel savings.

Hydrogen - Boost Basis System Package $ 500 Contents : One Hydrogen generator with mounting strap, water trap, 6 ft hose Hydrogen - Boost System Operator’s Manual Salesman Authorization Certificate

Compact or Sub- Compact Hydrogen - Boost System $ 500 Contents : Same as regular full sized system except the Hydrogen generator

Optional Access ories

$ 50 – Fuel heater that splices into the heater hose circuit $ 50 – Wiring kit, including 20 feet of 12 gauge insulated wire, 20 feet of 20 gauge insulated control wire 1 30 amp relay, fuse, and fuse holder 1 30 amp ammeter, dash mount 1 box of crimp on wire connectors 1 shut off switch

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Satisfaction Guarantee /R eturn Policy Our Hydrogen - Boost System package is 100 % satisfaction guaranteed for 30 days. If you are no satisfied with the performance of the Hydrogen - Boost System, you may return it undamaged within 30 days for a full refund. Unfortuna tely any optional accessories will be damage upon installation and therefore nonretur na ble unless the are unused, uninstalled, and in the original package.

Hydrogen - Boost System Installation Instructions The Hydrogen - Boost System is an addition to your vehicle and should be installed in a manner than does not inhibit the normal operation of your vehicle, except as intende d. Mounting of componen ts should be done in a secure fashion, insuring that no parts interfere with the belts, hoses, or electrical compone n ts of your vehicle. All wiring should be insulated so that no shorting can occur. Step 1 – Location : Find a place to mount your hydrogen cell, preferably inside the engine compart m e nt away from moving parts. Hydrogen cells are available in a vertical 4.5’’ diameter cylinder 12’’ tall or vertical 4.’’ Diameter cylinder 10 inches tall (compact system). A new 3.5’’ diameter sub - compact cell is also available. For colder climates you will want to wrap the hydrogen generator with a coil of 3/8’’ OD soft copper pipe at least eight times around. This coil should be wrapped with a protective layer of rubber material like rubber roofing or rubber inner tube material. I use zip ties to hold it in place. Be sure the coil does not cover the entire side of the hydrogen generator. There must be at least a one inch section reserved for the mounting / g r ou n ding strap. This oil and protective wrap will increase the diameter of the unit. In any case the hydrogen gas hose exits the unit on top and water level/filler hole / hose is on the top and must be fairly accessible for refilling. If possible, locate a position for the cell that is against or near a sturdy surface to which the cell can be secured by the mounting bracket and has something sturdy to rest on. Mounting : once you have fond a suitable location for the hydrogen cell, mount the mounting bracket to a sturdy surface with the metal screws. You will have to bend the mounting bracket to adjust the distance to your surface to insure that the

cell remains upright. Then use the clamp to secure the cell generator so be sure it is tight and has good electrical connection to the hydrogen generator and the mounting surface. Since the cell is quite heavy it would be safest if the botto m rested on some solid part of the vehicle. Otherwise you may have to make a little shelf under the cell. Mount the vertical cylinder water trap in a similar manner. Step 2 – Hoses : you will be running a clear hose from the top of Hydrogen cell through the top of the water trap and to the botto m of the trap on the inside. Another hose is run from the other opening in water trap (just inserted one inch) to the air intake before the air breather so that the gases introd uced into the intake are first filtered by the air filter. Sep 3 – Wiring : probably the hardest part of the whole installation is to find a wire on your vehicle that has power only when your engine is running. On my Dakota I used the wire giving power to the ignition coil. On the Neon I used the green and orange wire to the fuel injectors. Neither of these was a proper choice because they still had electricity when the engine stalled. The wire to the fuel pum p might is a good choice. Test your chosen wire to be sure that if the engine stalls the wire is dead even when the key is on. If no wire can be found with proper conditions, especially on older vehicles with carburettor s, one can be rigged by installing a pressure switch into a tee installed into the oil pressure sensor port and running a hot wire to feed it. Whenever there is oil pressure the engine will be running and the switch will be supplying the electricity you need.

10 Once you have decided on a wire, tap into it either by soldering a 20 gauge wire to it and insulating the connection with electrical tape or use crimp on connections to make the connection. Either way run the new wire to a location where you will mount your shut off switch and then to a place where you will mount a 30 amp relay (near the hydrogen cell). This relay will take the signal from your new wire and turn on the hydrogen cell with power you get directly from the battery. Your relay should have at least four connection terminals on it. One will go to your new wire (ignition on), one will go to the positive terminal of your battery, through the fuse holder you will install (12 gauge), and one will go to a good ground (20 gauge), the last will go to your center terminal of the hydrogen cell (12 gauge). You’ll have to figure out which goes where by looking at the diagram on your relay or relay package. Typically the terminals on the relay are all parallel except one. The non - parallel terminal and the one across from it are the ones that will get the heavy wires (to the battery and to the cell). The two that are parallel and across from each other are the switching terminals (the one you’ll put the signal wire and ground wire to). If your relay has five terminals ignore the center terminal. Connect all the wires with crimp on connection. If you decide to install an ammeter, run two 12 gauge (heavy) wires from your cell to the mounting location for your ammeter, hopefully inside the cockpit where it is easy to see. Connect one wire to your cell and the other to the wire that originally went to your cell. Be sure you use 12 gauge wire as all the power going to your cell is running through this wire. If you are confused, refer to the following wiring diagram :

Step 4 : filling the cell : you will need to prepare a solution of electrolyte to pour into the cell. Caution, the electrolyte we provide contains a strong base and can irritate your skin. The solution, if left in contact, can eat away your flesh, just like a strong acid. While working with this solution, use latex or rubber gloves and eye protection as well as a surgical or painter’s breathing mask. If you ever have a substance on your skin that fells slippery, it is probably this solution. Wash it off with plenty of water and some vinegar or citrus juice. These are weak acids and will neutralize the base. Caution, when mixing our electrolyte with water, the solution will generate lots of heat. Add the electrolyte to the water a little at a time, stirring and giving the solution time to cool so it doesn’t overheat.

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Do not breath the fumes of this solution. Work in a well ventilated area and wear the surgical or painter’s breathing mask. You will want to make a solution that will make your cell draw twenty amps when hot. You can mix a small amount (2- 3 ounces or 75 grams of the electrolyte in 8 fluid ounces, 250 ml of distilled water) in a glass container and pour it into the cell using a funnel. Once you have poured your initial 8 ounces of solution into the cell, give it a minute to fill all the little spaces in the cell, then turn on the power by starting your engine. Be sure the fill plug is inserted into the hole/ h o s e in on your cell. Check the amps on your ammeter. Hopefully it will be less than twenty amps. If not, you may have to drain some of your solution and this is not fun. If the amps are less than twenty, mix up some more solution and pour it in until you get twenty amps. Be sure that each time you open the cell the power is off, and there is no chance of spark or ignition. Once you have reached twenty amps you can finish filling the cell with de- ionized water until the water level reaches the fill hole or the top of the inner assembly (about 2 inches below the rubber cap). If the temperatu re is cold when you fill your cell shoot for 15 amps instead of 20. When the cell warms up the amps will increase. If you overfill the cell, the solution may bubble over into the water trap. This is no big deal, just pour this collected solution back into the cell the next time

you refill the cell. If you spill any solution be sure to rinse it down with water. Do not allow this solution to remain in contact with metal. It may react with and corrode your steel body parts and it will completely eat away aluminiu m. Step 5 – Installation of the fuel heater : we use to offer two different fuel heaters. To install the internal heater you need to first order the correct size (inside diameter of your upper radiator hose). Before installation find a spot about three inches from the end of upper radiator hose near the thermosta t where you will install the heater and mark an X where you would like the fuel line to go in and out. Then remove the radiator hose and cut the hose about three quarters of the way around with your X in the middle of your cut. Then straighten the hose manually as best you can, bend the short end over and insert the fuel line end into the long part of the radiator hose. Once you get the collar into the hose as far as you can, pull the short end of the hose onto the other side of the collar. Turn the collar on the hose until your fuel lines are at the X you marked and clamp the hose onto the collar with hose clamps. Squeeze the hose lightly in a few places to insure the fuel line inside stays near the center of the hose and the hose returns to its original shape without the bends binding against the fuel line inside. Then reinstall the radiator hose. Remember we did not cut the radiator hose all the way aroun d. There are two reasons for this. One reason is that the uncut portion of the hose keeps the two ends of the hose aligned and the second reason is to keep the hose from sliding off the collar, which it has a tendency to do if it is slippery inside. After reinstalling the radiator hose cut your fuel line going into the injector rail and insert the ends of the fuel line portion of the fuel heater into each end of the fuel hose you just cut. If you had to cut a metal fuel line, then get a couple short pieces of rubber fuel hose from the hardware store and use them to make your splices. Be sure to clamp everything tight. Start your engine and make sure you have no leaks in the fuel lines or the radiator hose. Our present model fuel heater in self contained and will be spliced into the heater hose circuit of your vehicle. There are two ways this can be done. If you are sure that your vehicle does not have a shut off valve built into the heater core (I know none that do) then you can just find a good location to just cut out a section of the heater hose and insert the heater end pipes and clamp the hoses in place. For my experimental vehicle, since I am always changing things I installed a tee with a ball valve on it in both heater hoses leading to the heater core and sent hoses from there to the fuel heater. If there was a valve in the heater core this coolant was no hampered by it because my circuit was an alternative route. One disadvantage to my alternative circuit is that I only get half the coolant flow I could get with a direct splice. My advantage is that when I get a leak in some new componen t I am testing with I just shut the valves off and I can get home with losing all my coolant. Plus when I want to make a change in the circuit I can shut off the valves and not have to drain the entire coolant system.

12 For colder climates you will want to route your coolant through the coil wrappe d around your hydrogen generator as well. This may require you to reduce the size of your hoses because the heater coil is 3/8 inch and the fuel heater pipes are ½ inch. Step 6 – Choosing a vaporizing syste m : on most vehicles with a fuel return line to the tank and an evaporative emissions control system the fuel heater acts as a vaporizing system as well. Heated fuel returning to the tank creates more vapors than usual and these vapors are routed to the intake manifold via the

evaporative emissions control system. Even this vaporizing system is not adequate to get extreme mileage gains. Here are instructions for three other vaporization systems developed by Hydrogen - Boost. All have been tested and used on various vehicles. Determining the best vaporization system for you will depen d on the equipmen t you vehicle has as the extent you are willing to modify your vehicle. Most customers are please with just a fuel heater as their source of vapors. Choose your system and if you need advice please email us.

Fuel Vaporizer circuit and canister During the Hydrogen - Boost performance tests in Switzerland in October 2001, a new component of the Hydrogen - Boost system was tested that caused an additional increase in mileage above what had previously been experienced. This compone nt is the fuel vaporizer circuit and canister and here I will describe the test version used in Switzerland and the production version recomme n d e d for long - term use. Before I describe the test version I want to make it clear that this version is not safe for long- term use as it may eventually cause a fuel leak on the exhaust system of the vehicle which could ignite and cause a fire. If you want to try the test version on your vehicle you do so at your own risk and with this stern warning. Soft copper tubing is slightly softer that the mild steel out of which your exhaust pipe is made and contact between a soft copper tube and the exhaust pipe may vibrate and cause a wearing of the copper tube through which fuel is passing. This will eventually leak fuel. Besides the vibration concern, copper is reactive with air and moisture, especially when heated to high temperatu re as when wrapped aroun d an exhaust pipe. This causes corrosion, which will also cause a chance of a leak in the copper tube. With these warning said let me describe the test version used in Switzerland and the production version available to you through Hydrogen - Boost. The test version of the fuel vaporizer circuit was simply a 1/8’’ (2 mm or 3 mm) OD soft copper tube about 12 feet (4 meters) long wrappe d aroun d the exhaust pipe near the exhaust manifold. One end of the tube was attached to a mini - valve, which was teed into the fuel line between the Hydrogen - Boost fuel heater and the injector rail. The other end of the tube was soldered to a section of ¼’’ (5 mm to 6 mm) OD copper tube about 5- 6 feet (2 meters) long which led to a canister (in the case of the Switzerland test, a glass jar with a screw- on metal lied through which was drilled two holes which were lined with rubber grommets the proper size for the ¼’’ tube to be inserted. The vapour tube from the exhaust pipe was spliced with a rubber hose to a short piece of ¼’’ tube inserted into the jar. The second hole in the jar lid contained a second inserted ¼’’ tube onto which was attached a rubber hose to a vacuum fitting on the intake manifold. That was the extent of the test version. To operate the circuit the valve was turned on only slightly to allow on a few drops per second to enter the jar. As the engine and exhaust were heated, the fuel entering the jar, but when the engine was throttled up and down there would appear in the jar a mist of fuel. Any excess fuel in the jar could be returned to the tank or if it was less than ½’’ deep it could remain in the jar for vaporization. After initial adjust me n t, liquid fuel was never noticed in the jar, though it would not be a problem if during warm up of the engine there appeared some liquid fuel, as long as the amount of fuel in the jar did not continually increase during hot operation of the engine. Now since all the liquid fuel was vaporized inside the copper tube there was eventually a deposit of fuel additives left behind in the copper tube.

1 3 This was occasionally flushed out with fuel to prevent plugging of the vaporizing tube. To flush out the line without having to re- establish the sensitive adjustme n t on the fuel valve leading to the vaporizing tube, a second valve was installed in parallel with the first and this second valve was used for the flushing operation. Flushing only takes a few ounces of fuel, which can then remain in the vapour canister (jar). Flushing should be done each time the hydrogen generator is filled with water and should be done when the exhaust is relatively cool to prevent super - heated fuel from splashing around. The production model of the vaporizing circuit and canister replaces the soft copper tube wrapped around the exhaust pipe with a stainless steel tube coiled inside the exhaust pipe or a stainless steel tube wrapped around the exhaust pipe. Two relatively equivalent obstacles accompany the installation of the production model but the safety of the completed system is well worth the effort. On either choice of stainless steel versions, the exhaust pipe needs to be removed from the vehicle for installation. To install the interior vaporizing coil two small holes must be drilled into the exhaust pipe in a convenient location for the tube to exit the exhaust pipe. Then the vaporizing coil must be inserted into the exhaust pipe and the ends of the tube inserted through the hole and welded, brazed, or soldered into place. Be careful when welding to insure that the stainless tube I not penetrated to cause au fuel leak. To the ends of the vaporizing coil, the ¼’’ copper tubes of the original design can be soldered and the remainder of the installation is the same as before. A second choice of stainless steel tube installation is to wrap the tube around the exhaust pipe as we did with the soft copper tubing in the test version. The obstacle to this is the lack of flexibility of the stainless steel tubing. To get the stainless wrapped around the exhaust pipe tight enough to get proper heat conduction, it must be first wrapped around a slightly smaller pipe and then sprung open enough to slide it onto the exhaust pipe. Again after reinstalling the exhaust pipe, hook up the rest of the circuit and canister in the same way as indicated above. The glass jar /canister should be mounted or rested in a sport in the engine compart me n t that insures that it will not break. The purpose of the vaporizer circuit and canister is to increase the amoun t of fuel that is in the vaporized form in the combustion chamber. Of course for this to increase efficiency, the remaining injected fuel must be reduced to compensate for the vapour that is produced. Most of today’s modern EFI (electronic fuel injection) equippe d engines will make this adjust me n t automa tically. In the Switzerland performa nce test we had to make manual adjustme n t s to the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor to accomplish this. If you have a carburetor equipped vehicle you will have to adjust the carb to a leaner than normal setting to do this. The fuel that is reduced will be much more than the fuel used to make the vapour and so you will have a considerable savings of fuel with this system. Of course the extreme savings are only achieved by installing the entire Hydrogen - Boost System.

Fuel Vaporizer Installation The vaporizer is a canister wrapped with a heating coil through which engine coolant is circulated from the heater hose circuit, typically after the engine coolant is passed through the fuel heater. Here is a picture of an early prototype. Notice the four pipes coming out of the top of the canister, two have valves and the other two do not. The first thing you need to do for installation is to locate a suitable location in or near the engine compart me n t of your vehicle. Lately it has been difficult on newer vehicles to find a location inside the engine compart me n t even for the hydrogen generator so it might be required that you find a location outside but near the engine compart me n t. On the second Saturn SL I we installed Hydrogen - Boost to we installed the hydrogen generator inside the front fender, either side would do but we used the passenger side.

14 The Saturn fender removes easily and your vehicle may not be as easy to work with so you may have to install inside the fender (in front of the wheel) by accessing from under the vehicle. This will probably require an automobile lift. Be sure that your location for the vaporizer is not too close to the exhaust system or source of possible sparks, just in case you develop a fuel leak. Be sure to check the connections often to insure no fuel leaks, which may cause a fire hazard. Usually a sudden drop in mileage or fuel gauge, or the smell of gasoline will indicate a fuel leak. After finding a suitable location place the vaporizer into its future location and position the valves so that they are accessible and will not be blocked from

turning by any of the hoses you will be installing. Also when installing the hoses you want to be sure that the clamps are pointed in a direction that will allow them to be tightened by whatever tools you plan on keeping in your vehicle. The pipes on the top of the vaporizer are soft copper so they are somewhat flexible but not so much that you kink them. After placing the vaporizer into its location try to secure it so it does not fall over or out of place. The canister needs to be fairly erect as in the picture above. The liquid fuel that will be inside will need to fall to the bottom to be sucked up by the auxiliary fuel pump that will return the fuel to the fuel tank (aux fuel pump no included). Be sure when you purchase the fuel pump, that you get one that will suck a good vacuum. The one I use is a generic pump obtained from Auto Palace that would suck a 12- inc vacuum (inches of Mercury). Since there will be a partial vacuum inside the vaporizer you will need to have a good fuel pump that sucks a vacuum. Hooking up the hoses : hopefully you have already teed into the heater hose circuit to install your fuel heater. The fuel heater comes with ½ inch pipes on the ends and can be reduced to 3/8 inch to match the heating coil around the vaporizer, and for Northern climates, around the hydrogen generator. I used 3/8 inch hose for all the engine coolant circuit. Mine is a hose made for air compressors but it works fine if I tighten the clamps after the hose gets warm. To hook up the hoses to the heating coil just reroute the hose from your fuel heater so it goes next tot the bottom end of the vaporizer and then from the top end to where ever it went before (hydrogen generator) or return heater hose tee. Be sure the hose is routed so it doesn’t interfere with anything. To the pipe off the large valve on top of the vaporizer you will apply a 3/8’’ hose that will not collapse and the other end of that hose will go to a source of good vacuum, preferably to a tee installed eventually be installed in this hose and will be opened only when the throttle is open. This will give us fuel vapors when we need them instead of all the time. We don’t need much vapour at idle when the vacuum is high. I am testing a setup made from an old charcoal canister system. Only two more pipes to hook up, but these are the hardest. You must locate the fuel return line on the back side of your fuel injector rail usually coming off the fuel pressure regulator. Some vehicles do not have a three pipe fuel system and won’t have this return line, which will make this vaporizer pipe system call me at 518 - 793 7663. Once you locate your return fuel line, disconnect it from the fuel regulator or cut into it in an easy location on its route back to the tank. You will have to rig up a splice into this return line that will route the fuel through a gas hose to the smallest pipe on to of the vaporizer. Secure the ends so you have no leaks. Next attach a gas hose the remaining pipe (1/4’’) on top of the vaporizer and route it ot a location that you have chosen for the auxiliary fuel pump. Be sure you run the hose to the inlet end (usually has a filter) of the fuel pump. From the other end of the fuel pum p you will attach another gas hose and route it to the loose side of your fuel return line that you cut or detached. Be sure all your clamps are tight and test for leaks. Once you have everything installed and leak proof, you will need to adjust the valves on the vaporizer.

15 This will require a vacuum gauge, which you should have as a tool for efficient driving (see driving tips in the operator’s manual). You remember that you

checked the vacuum that the fuel pump would suck, so you will adjust the small valve on the top of the vaoporizer (with the large valve wide open) so that the vacuum in the vaporizer is no higher than what the fuel pum p will pump. The may require a tee in the vacuum line off the large pipe of the vaporizer. Later you can remove the tee but I leave mine in and plugged so I can test the vacuum any time. After the small valve is adjuste d to insure fuel pump operation even at idle, you can adjust the large valve so that you have no excess vapors that the ECU cannot handle without giving the engine an over rich mixture. How do you tell what the air/fuel mixture is in the engine ? Well this will require an electrical tester that can test millivolts DC current. The voltage you test will com from the oxygen sensor and hopefully you have installed an EFIE device from Eagle Research to make this easier. I tap into the wires of the EFIE device, which I keep near my dashboard so I can monitor the mixture at any time. Remember that the EFIE wires you tap into to test the EFIE adjustme n t are the green and white wires. Well for the mixture signal sent to the ECU we will tap into the white and black wires. Remember the white wire carries the oxygen sensor and EFIE device voltage to the ECU and the Black wire is groun d. We want to ensure that the voltage we are testing will hover around 500 milivolts. It will spike whenever you change the throttle setting, usually to around 1.2 volts, then within a couple seconds the voltage will settle down to the reading you are after. If this reading is much over 500 kilovolts slowly close the large valve until the voltage is near 500 volts. You are doing this at idle, or if you are tuning for a long distance drive and can stand a little over richness at idle, you can adjust at 2500 rpm. Truly you want an adjust me n t at speed on the highway so you can make a few adjustme n t s until you get the reading you want. Remember that at speed the ECU can handle more vapors and when you set the valve for at speed remember that at idle you will probably be extra rich. Extra rich is most importa nt when you have to pass an emissions test so when you go for one, readjust or completely shut off the vaporizer by shutting both vales. Then after you pass the test readjust.

Alterrnative vaporizer in the exhaust Of course if you want to get serious about fuel vaporization you can get tot the real heat source, the exhaust system. Here is a drawing and some pictures of the exhaust vaporizer we installed on the second Saturn SL 1.

You can also see in the last picture the fuel injectors injecting into the exhaust vaporizer line as well as an injector injecting fuel into a sea sponge inserted into the intake air hose between the air filter and the throttle body. Here is a picture of an intake air heater that replaces the air box. Notice the intake air temperatu re sensor on top and the air filter strappe d to the bottom of the heater core. Also visible is a vaporization circuit and canister.

16 Notice that the best place to send the vapors is into the evaporative emissions control system port on top of the throttle body rather than the PCV hose, which has the strongest vacuum when you don’t want the vapors, at idle. So we have shown you four possible vaporization systems not counting the evaporative emissions control system built into most vehicle with a fuel return line to the tank. This alone makes a fairly good vaporization system when we are heating the fuel with the fuel heater. But the more vapors you can send to the engine the leaner the mixture you can run and the better mileage you can achieve, as long as you can control the fuel mixture, which brings us to the next device. Step 6 : Install electronic control circuit. There are two choices for electronic controls circuits. Choosing your circuit will depend on the type of equipment your vehicle has and how automatic you want the system to be. The more automatic the less fuel saving you will be able to achieve. Here is a comparison of the two choices. This first choice is the EFIE device from Eagle Research, which is a device that adds and adjustable amount of voltage to your upstream oxygen sensor signal to tell the on board computer than the engine is running too rich. This is the more automatic of the two devices. Once it is set you shouldn’t have to play with it again. A proper setting should not trigger a chech engine light but an improper setting will.

The device comes with instructions so there is no need to repeat them here. The highest air/fuel ratio that can be achieved with the EFIE device is around 18 to one which can give you a considerable amount of fuel savings. Stock ration is 14.7 to one. That is 14.7 pounds of air to 1 poun d of fuel. The second choice for electronic control will depend on what type of signal your primary sensor is sending to the on board computer. There are a few vehicles with a MAF sensor that sends a frequency modulated signal that is incompatible with this control circuit. Most vehicles have a MAF or MAP circuit. As before you can set it and forget it as you did with the EFIE device but it has much more control over the fuel ration and you may want to experiment with various vaporization metho ds and fuel rations and this control circuit will allow you to do that. Using this circuit will definitely trigger a “check engine soon” light because you will have to disconnect the oxygen sensor to keep the on board computer from fighting against your adjustme n t s. If you choose to have an Auterra Dyno - Scan or some other scan tool, you can reset the trouble codes any time you want sol I suggest that you get one of these tools il you choose this circuit and you have to get an emissions inspection periodically. I live in an area that doesn’t have emissions inspections so I don’t care about the check engine soon light. This second type of electronic circuit can control the fuel ratio to whatever you desire, even to 50 to 1 or more, even if you install an auxiliary injector for your choice of vaporization system. A twist of a knob is all it takes to change the ration and it can be done on the fly.

Electronic Control for Hydrogen - Boost Today’s electronic injection systems are designed to make the engine run on a set air/fuel ratio, which is much richer than needed. Typically a ration off 11 : 1 to 13.5 : 1 is seen at idle, warm - up, and acceleration. At cruise the oxygen sensor controlled closed loop operation has a target air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. A properly equippe d engine can run easily accelerate at 18:1 and cruise at 20:1. However these air/fuel ratios likely cause a slightly higher throttle setting than normal so don’t expect double gas mileage because ratios are double. The first elect control circuit used with Hydrogen - Boost was the EFIE device sold by Eagle Research, which added an adjustable amount of voltage to the oxygen sensor signal. This did two things. It told the ECU (onboard compu ter that controls injection) that the mixture was richer than it actually was, thereby getting the ECU to inject less fuel and thereby shoot for a leaner (higher) ratio. Another thing the EFIE did was increase the throttle range in which the ECU would remain in closed loop operation (adjust fuel injected based on oxygen sensor signal). This saved fuel whenever the installed equipme nt furnished extra fuel vapors to the mix.

17 Since the oxygen sensor only operates in a very narrow range of air/fuel ratios, the EFIE had limited control over the mixture. Typically a ration of 18:1 was the maximum possible. Recently we have developed an electronic circuit that can slide the fuel map of a MAP sensor controlled ECU up so that a simple twist of a knob can change the ratio to as high as 100:1 and beyond. However the fuel map is not a linear function so when the circuit is used the ratio does not stay the same for all RPMs and throttle settings. Typically adjusting the cruise ration to 20:1 caused the idle and deceleration ratio to be around 16:1. To get the best mileage we really want a ratio at idle and deceleration to be higher then during acceleration and cruise so we have developed a more involved circuit that will handle this problem. This will have two adjustable

knobs and the lower throttle settings will be adjuste d with the second knob. This will not make a perfectly steady ratio but it is certainly better than any what we had before. The circuit requires that we prevent the ECU from going into closed loop operation. This is done by putting a switch in the line to the engine coolant temperature sensor, which is left shut off whenever the ECU wants to act up, and disconnecting the oxygen sensor. This gives us an opening for a wide band air/fuel ratio sensor to be installed, which runs a air/fuel ratio meter made by numerou s companies. My meter is claimed to be able to create an analogue signal that can be sent the ECU installed of the signal from the oxygen sensor we removed. This will likely allow the ECU to go into closed loop operation which we don’t want. Il have never gotten the analogue signal outpu t to operate properly so I ensure the ECU stays in open loop operation by turning my EFIE voltage way up which allows me to leave the coolant temperature sensor operating normally. Many vehicles are MAF sensor controlled instead of MAP sensor. On some of these vehicles we can still use our electronic control circuit, or we can instruct you to build an adjustable intake air bypass to the MAF sensor. This can simply be a hole in the air tube leading from the air filter box where the MAF sensor is located, to the throttle body. This hole can have a cover or flap that is adjustable by cable from inside the cockpit. Of course the air going into this hole has to be filtered, so it would be nice to build a tube from the hole back to the air filter or to a secondary air filter. This setup will act similar to our single knob circuit on the MAP sensor vehicle. A secondary, spring returned cable connected to the throttle cable can take care of the idle/deceleration mixture change. This mechanical solution is much cheaper than an alternative electronic solution to those MAF sensor controlled mixture ratio adjustme n t s, whenever the MAF sensor signal is not compatible with out controller, as long as your vehicle has the room to build the contrap tion. There are a number of ways to divert the intake air and if configuration. We’ll be glad to give you some advice. Controller Kit include s : 2 potentiometer s (50 kilo ohms) 1 vacuum switch (set at 16 in Hg, normally on) 20 feet wire Wire connectors 8 feet vacuum tubing Vacuum gauge Installation Instructions Locate MAP or MAF sensor Refer to your repair manual to locate the sensor. Typically the MAF sensor will be on the large air hose leading from the air filter to the throttle body on the intake manifold. The MAP sensor is typically attached to the intake manifold or attached to the firewall but connected to the manifold by a vacuum hose.

18 Insure signal compatibility Refer to the repair manual to see what kind of signal is sent to the ECU (sometimes called PCM). If the signal is a voltage that increases with increasing engine

load (with the engine running), than this signal is compatible with our controller. Some newer vehicles have a MAF signal that is an oscillating signal that changes frequency with changing air flow. This type signal is not compatible with our controller. Identify signal wire Typically a compatible sensor will have three wires leading to it. One will have a constant voltage, one will be grounde d, and the third will have a varying voltage based on air flow or manifold pressure. To identify the correct wire eliminate the other two by the following method. With the ignition switch on and using a sharp tester probe, pierce the three wires individually with one lead of an electrical tester set on DC Volts, with the other tester lead grounded. This should identify the wire carrying voltage to the senor. Mine is five volts. Once you have identified this “hot” wire, leave one lead on this wire and the other lead on each of the other two wires, see which one is ground. Typical ground wires are black, brown, green, or white but this will likely confuse you because my black wire is groun d and my signal wire is brown. Once you have identified the ground wire, and the hot wire, put your tester leads on the ground wire and the remaining (signal) wire. There should be some small voltage when the ignition is on. Start the engine and confirm that the voltage on your tester changes when the throttle is moved. If so than the signal wire is properly identified. Install wire to cockpit Once you have identified the signal wire and confirmed that the voltage on this wire varies properly with air flow or manifold pressure, then cut the wire in an accessible place and install wire connectors that would enable you to plug the wire black together if you ever remove the controller. Then install wire connectors to one end of the pair of wires in the kit so that you can plug this end onto the connectors you installed on the signal wire. Be sure the connectors cannot short. Route the other end of your wire to a convenient place in the cockpit where you can install the two adjusters. Install adjusters I installed mine on the lower dash flange by my right knee. I just drilled through the plastic flange and inserted the twist handle of the potentiometer through the hole from the bac. Label them “high speed” and “low speed”. Hook up adjusters Follow the wiring diagram in the picture and attach the needed connectors to the wires so that they can plug onto the adjusters and the vacuum switch. There may be more than two prongs to plug onto on the switch and the adjusters so identify the proper prongs as follows. Depending on which way you want the adjusters to run when you change the fuel ratio, plug onto the prongs that give the least electrical resistance when the knob is turned to the full rich mixture position. For the vacuum switch you want to plug onto the prongs of the normally closed condition (no electrical resistance). So electricity will pass through the switch until you suck hard on the vacuum port, which turns the switch off. Mount Vacuum Gauge Mount the vacuum gauge in a visible spot near the adjusters.

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Adjust the Vacuum Switch Attach one end of the vacuum hose to the vacuum switch and tee into the hose a short hose that goes to the vacuum gauge. Holding the switch in your hand loosely, suck on the end of the vacuum hose until you feel the switch click. Note the vacuum reading of the click. Remove the vacuum switch from the hose and insert a small hex head wrench (Allen Wrench) into where the hose was connected and adjust the Allen screw adjustme n t of the switch and retry the vacuum switching setting. Continue to adjust until you get a reading of 15- 18 in Hg when the switch clicks. Put the vacuum switch within reach so you can adjust this switching setting after installation. You will want to adjust this setting so that whenever you want to cruise or accelerate you will have the richer mixture and whenever you are idling or decelerating you will have the leaner mixture. Install vacuum hose Find a source of good vacuum on your intake manifold that will supply strongest vacuum at idle to your vacuum hose. Attach the hose to the source and run the hose into the cockpit and attach the other end to the vacuum switch. Wire tie all wires and hoses so that they do not interfere with your driving. Adjust the adjuster With the low speed adjuster full rich, and the engine fully warmed up and cruising at highway speed, adjust the high speed adjuster so you get a fairly lean mixture but no bucking or hesitation. I do this by turning it toward lean until I do get bucking during heavy acceleration, then backing off a little so that there is barely noticeable bucking near full throttle. Next let up on the throttle until the vacuum switch clicks. You might not hear this but the vacuum gauge should help you. You could stop the vehicle and do this step at idle. Adjust the low speed adjuster until you have minor hesitation but without the vacuum gauge moving much from the idle reading (usually 20 in Hg). Next test the vehicle on acceleration again to insure that the low speed adjustme n t did no mess up your high speed adjustme n t. Then drive aroun d a bit until you ca tell if you are comfortable with your vacuum switch setting. For safety you should have it set so you can accelerate without hesitation, but if your cruise vacuum is always above 15 in Hg, you want the switch set pretty close to that. If you cruise often behind big trucks so you can draft in their wind stream at 18 in Hg vacuum then you’ll want to set the vacuum switch so it doesn’t interfere with that. Next you can do mileage testing to find out if your adjustme n t s are too lean. Extra lean mixtures will cause you to require a higher throttle setting to get the same power. This may actually waste fuel so you might want to enrich your mixture slightly from what you have adjuste d in order to get the best mileage. Lastly a warning about too lean a mixture, NOx emissions and burning valves are a consideration when exhaust temperat u re s get too high. This is typically a problem only at wide open throttle for extended periods of time. This should not be a condition under which you are operating if you expect to get good mileage. Step 7 : choosing a monitoring syste m. I you are choosing to use the second control circuit and want to tweak out the very best mileage you can get you will need to have some sort of monitoring system that will give you some feed back from the engine. There are three choices, one for $30 that gives you one bit of importa nt information, another for $350 that will tell you everything that is going on in your engine but will not give you the fuel ration you are operating at. The third option is a wide band oxygen sensor controlled air fuel ratio meter for $350. I have all

three on my test vehicle. The $30 option is simply a digital multi - meter from Radio Shack hooked to the down - steam oxygen sensor. Set at DC Volts you can determine the fuel ratio fairly closely by reading the volts displayed. A typically vehicle’s down stream oxygen sensor will read the following voltages at the correspon ding fuels ratios

20 Volts Ratio 1.0 13:1 .600 14:1 .500 14.7:1 .100 15:1 .080 16:1 .050 17:1 .010 18:1 Another device to get a rough estimate of the fuel ratios in this range I to purchase a ratio meter available at some auto part stores and on EBAY. The sell for $30 to $50 but are not real accurate, nor do they operate in the range that is achievable with the Hydrogen - Boost system with a good choice of vaporizin gystem. The second choice is the Auterra Dyno - Scan or other similar PDA based monitoring system that will give you basically any information that is available from your engine’s sensors plus a few calculated parameters as well. Il like the Dyno - Scan because it also has incorporate d in it a dynamo me ter program that allows you to determine the power and torque outpu t at any RPM as well as an acceleration / ti me to speed recording progra m. It also enables you to read and reset trouble codes that trigger the check engine light. With this device you can monitor some of the range of air/fuel ratios by monitoring the down stream oxygen sensor voltage as we did with the DC voltmeter. The third choice of monitoring system is the Innovate Motorsports AFR Meter, which is run by a wide band oxygen sensor. This device also has a way to progra m a signal that can be sent to your on board compu ter to imitate a regular oxygen sensor. Il have not used this feature so I don’t know how far you can get the on board computer to push the limits of the fuel ratio when reading this fake signal. Il prefer using my twist knob fuel ratio controller because it is quick and doesn’t fight against the computer’s limits. Step 8 : testing : you can now take a drive and test out your system. Check your ammeter periodically. If the amps go up to 25 that’s okay, this is normal as the cell warms up and the warm solution passé the ions quicker. If the amps go up to 35, shut off the switch, go home, and readjust your solution by pouring some out and adding water. If this happens to you, it is because when uou first filled the cell you did not give the solution time to dissipate throughout the celle while you checked the amps. Take your time this time. If the amps take a sudden jump during your drive, you probably have a short in your cell caused by the cell over because it was not securely fastened. Turn off the switch and go home. On you reposition the cell, if the short still exists, drain the cell, rinse it out and reassemble the cell. A sudden jump in amps also could be caused by a short in your wiring, due to poor insulating or because a wire rubbed against a fan belt and grounde d out on something. Check this out. Hopefully before installing the cell you had some idea of the gas mileage you were getting with your vehicle. If not, shut off the cell and test your mileage before using the cell. To test your mileage go to the filling station and fill up your

tank to the first click off. Record the mileage on your odometer or reset your trip odometer. Then drive normally until you need more gas. When you fill up again be sure that you park your vehicle exactly where you did before. Otherwise the tank will not fill up to the same volume as before. Also be sure that you hold the gas pump nozzle exactly as you did before. Divide the miles driven by the gallons of fuel it took to refill your tank.

21 When you go to test the Hydrogen - Boost system be sure you drive in accordance with the directions in the operator’s manual. Remember the Hydrogen Boost system includes the proper driving habits taught to you in the manual. When you go to test the mileage be sure that you drive at least enough distance to use up a half a tank of fuel. If you do not get an improvement in gas mileage it is time to clean the inside of your engine with water mist into the throttle body or carburetor as mentioned before. The longer you use the Hydrogen - Boost the cleaner your combustion chamber will become and the better your gas mileage will be. Give it time to clean out the carbon and expose the metal catalysts inside the engine. Don’t expect a huge increase in mileage immediately.

Hydrogen - Boost Cell Assembl y Instructions Your hydrogen cell will be a vertical tube - in- tube design. My experimen ts so far have shown that the vertical tube - in- tube design puts out more gas for the same electrical input (is more efficient) tan any other design tested. First you will notice that the factory cells come witch rubber end caps. This is for two reasons, and there is no way I know of to improve on this design. Reason number one is that I want you to be able to fix your cell when something goes wrong. You can’t do that if the cell is a sealed design. I also want you to have the experience of assembling the cell so that when something goes wrong you know how to fix it. If we assembled the cells at the factory, you wouldn’t get that experience and knowledge. Reason number two for rubber caps is the most importan t, and that is safety. If we made a sealed cell or a cell that had PVC screw on caps or plugs in the ends, we would have a bomb. If the pressure build up in our cell for any reason, it will pop the rubber cap off before any serious pressure builds up that endangers the cell from truly exploding. Two things can cause excessive pressure in the cell. Both have happened in research and I believe our design prevents it from happening to you, but the rubber caps are our safety valves if it does. One is a mild explosion caused by a short inside the cell when it is full of gas and not under vacuum as instructe d. The other is an obstruction in your hose preventing the escape of enough gas to relieve the pressure caused by the production of hydrogen. In research this has only happene d with our chemical hydrogen generators. With the rubber caps in both cases it is no big deal. 30 - 80 psi will pop the top and no real explosion occurs. Il love those rubber caps. If you ever modify the cell, don’t do away with the rubber caps.

Rubber caps also make a good seal aroun d any protrusion going into the cell like electrode and hose or fitting, unless someone drills too big a hole or has pressure pushing the protrusion to one side. Before assembling a cell be sure you have a clean area to work in and to spread out your parts. If you are reassem bling a cell be sure you thoroughly wash and rinse all parts before reassembly. In all cells care must be taken to ensure that no two electrodes (tubes) have a chance of touching. If the electrodes touch they will short out part of the cell and this can cause an explosion under the right conditions. Let’s get back to assembly. The first thing you need to do is take an inventory of parts to make sure no parts are missing. Also be sure you have all the tools you need, including latex or rubber gloves if you are disassem bling or reassembling a cell. First let me remind you that electrodes (tubes) cannot be allowed to touch. Even though only two of the electrodes have wires going to them, all of them have a voltage difference with an adjacent electrode even if there is no wire going to it. Even if two central electrodes are allowed to touch, they can cause a short, spark and explosion (if you are not running the cell under a vacuum as instructe d). The cell is a series of stainless steel tubes (pipes) inside each other separated by spacer. We have done much experimentation with various spacer materials and arrangeme nts and may not have the perfect solution yet.

2 2 If you come up with suggestions, don’t be afraid to tell us about your ideas. Throughout our experiments we have determine d that a good spacer system must accomplish two things. It must insulate between the tubes and it must stay in place. Our first experiments were with short (2- 3 cm) piece of clear vinyl tubing of various thicknesses squeeze d between the pipes. These had a tendency to fall out after a few weeks in the solution in the cell. They lost their elasticity and ceased to push the tubes apart. What you will do in your cell is to cut longer (8- 10 cm) pieces of tubing and bend them over the top of the tubes so that each piece of clear tubing is squeezed between two pairs of ipes.

When assembled, the cell will have the sides of the steel tubes so that they cannot move pictures above for clarification. When assembling smallest two pipes and apply spacers, then slide

bent pieces of tubing on alternating around and fall out of place. See the the cell it is easiest to start with the the third pipe over the first two by

bending the clear tubing over as spacers for the next pipe. Be sure to turn the assembly over each time and do both top and bottom spacers before going on to the next pipe. This will require bending the tubing over the pipe and squeezing it between the last two pipes. The tighter the better. Notice in the pictures above that some of the stiffer tubing is cut ¾ of the way through to make it easier to bend before putting it in place. This stiffer tubing is usually squeezed in a vise before insertion, to help get it into place. Leave the center rod electrode until last and insulate it with a secure piece of clear tubin on top and bottom and sliding it down the center after installing the lower rubber cap. To secure the top piece of tubing (sleeve) you will make three or four slits in the upper half of the tubing and bend the tabs formed over the smallest pipe and insert these tabs between the first two pipes. The bottom sleeve may no require this. Just be sure the tubing is snug and won’t easily fall off the center electrode. Gravity will hold it in place, unlike the top sleeve, which may slip down if the solution affects the tubing slightly so it looses its elasticity. The bent over tabs will insure that it doesn’t slide down. The tops sleeve should be about 3 inches long including tabs and the bottom sleeve only ½ inch long. Do not sleeve the entire center electrode as this will insulate it and prevent the whole cell from operating at all. You will notice that the outer most pipe is longer than the inner pipes. This is because we want the inner tubes to stand up off the botto m and not reach the top, so that solution can circulate during operation. The tube assembly should be pushe d all the way down to the bottom of the outer tube. The bent over spacers will allow for enough space under each tube to circulate the solution. On the top you will install a splash guard and a short piece of plastic tubing to hold the splash guard down and keep the pipes from popping up. The slash guard I use is made from a flexible yet stiff piece of PVC vinyl about 1/8 to ¼ inch thick. After assembling all the tubes, install the lower rubber cap.

23 The punch a hole for the center electrode with a leather punch, in or near the center of the top rubber cap, be sure that the hole is smaller than the center electrode (threaded rod) so that the rubber cap is so tight aroun d the threaded rod that the rod must be screwed into the rubber cap. Some rubber caps have a large reinforcing web that prevents and exact central drilling. You can clip this webbing with tin snips to remove the webbing from the center area. Punch another (usually 3/8’’) hole for the hose fitting and insert the fitting from the inside of the cap. Next punch a hole for the filler hole cap/ plug. I use a 35 mm film canister for my filler hole plug but a rubber stopper / c or k will word just fine. Do not try to drill any of these

holes through the rubber cap. Drilling rubber will not make a round hole and they will leak gases and splashed electrolyte. Use a punch made by sharpening the end of a piece of pipe If you can’t purchase leather punches the right size. Then install the top rubber cap.

Hydrogen Generator Plan For the customer who cannot afford to buy the Hydrogen - Boost System, we offer the following instructions to build your own from scratch. Materials : The most important material you will need is Stainless steel pipe. Our Hydrogen - Boost is build with high- grade 316 or 316 L stainless steel. If you are in an area with plenty of industry you should be able to find these grades of pipe. You will not want to buy full lengths of pipe from a distributor unless you want to make at least twenty cells. But a good salvage yard will likely have most of what you need, or comparable sizes and grades. My first six month s of research used only materials from a salvage yard in a small city in upstate New York, which had a few paper mills within 20 miles. If you decide to visit a scrap yard to find materials be sure to bring along a strong magnet. The stainless steel you want will not be attracted at all by a magnet. Some lower grades of stainless are attracted by magnets and are not suitable for this application. When you go to the scrap yard you want to look for several sizes of stainless steel pipe from four inches in diameter to ½ inch. These are nominal sizes not exact sizes. Typically the actual size is slightly larger than the nominal size. Don’t expect to find exact sizes, even though some are available. What you want to find is a least six or seven sizes that will fit inside of each other with at least 1/8 inch gap around. The thicker the pipe the more you’re going to pay so take the time to find the thin stuff. Thick pipe is called schedule 40 or schedule 80. Thin pipe is schedule 5 or chedule 10. Schedule 5 is what our Hydrogen - Boost is made out of. If the pipe is labelled you want to look for 316 or 316L, but if you can’t find that, 304 will work okay but might not last forever. Be sure not to use any that is attracted by magnets. It is only protected from rusting but our solution will eat it away and cause shorting and sediment problems. If you can find the nominal sizes 1/1, 1, 1 ½, 2, 3 and 4 inch you’re on track. If the sizes you find are not exactly what you are looking for, just find pipes that fit inside each other with a little space between them. I have found that the best arrangeme nt is to have less space between the smaller pipes and a larger space between the larger pipes. Notice that the list above excludes 2 ½ and 3 ½ inch pipe, even if available. There is a reason for this that I won’t get into now. On your first visit to the salvage yard you will not likely find all that you need. Don’t be discouraged, a few return trips will get you closer to your goal. It took me a few weeks to find all I needed to build my first good cell. Ask the proprietor of the yard to set aside what you need if he sees it come through. Just make sure you keep checking with him so he doesn’t set stuff aside for nothing. Even offer to pay him a premium price for the needed supplies. At the salvage yard you will also be looking for a center electrode of stainless steel. A ¼ inch bolt or threaded rod is what I used, but I have used 3/8 and ½ inch as well. Our production model uses 5/16 inch threaded rod.

24 Get what you can find, it’s not that critical as long it is at least twelve to fourteen inches long. Besides the stainless steel pipe and rod, the next important thing to find which is not available everywhere is rubber caps. Many good plumbing supply houses in the U.SZ; will have these but if you can’t find them I can send you some. If you use a 4 inch nominal pipe as your largest, the cap size will actually be 4 ½ inches. If you have an actual size of 4 inches, as one of my prototypes had, you can use a four inch nominal cap which will squeeze down to four inches when you tighten the clamp or you can use a 3 inch nominal cap which is only 3 ½ inches across. You’ll have to stretch the cap onto the pipe but it works. My prototype had a 3’’ on the botto m and a 4’’ cap on top for easy removal. These rubber caps have a stainless steel hose clamp around them that clamps the cap tight onto the pipe. The caps will cost up to $10 US each. Clear plastic tubing (flexible) can usually be found at a decent hardware store as can the clamps, wires, and wire fittings, and sometimes the ¼ inch stainless steel rod if you can’t find it a the scrap yard. The hose fittings to go into the top of the cell are a little harder to find. Brass ones can be found okay but I prefer plastic to prevent any possibility of electrical shorting inside the cell. Best is a 3/8 inch plastic hose to standar d pipe taper fitting. I like the 90 degree elbow configuration. If you can’t find the right fitting, you can get along by jus punching a hole through the rubber cap that will allow the hose to fit tightly therein. Just be sure that the hose doesn’t go in so far as to pick up the liquid in the cell. Also you need a piece of pipe or sturdy can to build a water trap which is just an airtight container (that will withstand a vacuum) with two pipes or hoses leading out. I use a 12 inch long 2 inch PVC pipe with a rubber cap on both ends. In the top I punch 2 holes witch a 7/16 inch punch. Then I insert the two hoses directly into the holes. Rubber hoses will work if you can’t get clear plastic. My friend made a water trap out of a jar. Whatever works for you, as long as it is airtight and can withstan d a vacuum. Now that you have all the material, you need to prepare them for assembly. Take your largest stainless steel pipe and cut it 12 inches long (or some other convenient length to fit in you engine compart me n t). Then cut the other pipes 2 inches shorter than your large pipe. This will give room inside your cell for the gases to accumulate and shed their bubbles. Clean thoroughly the inside and outside of each pipe. Then scuff up the surfaces inside and out. I use various hone and brushes for the inside and a grinder for the outside. You can use course grit sandpa pe r and elbow grease (hard work) to do the job. Make sure that any grease and dirt are gone, especially I you got your stainless at the scrap yard. Grease and dirt will prevent the solution from conducting to the pipes and it will contaminate your solution. One last piece you need is the short PVC pipe for the spacer on the top of the inside of your cell. Il use a 1 ½ inch diameter PVC pipe whatever length it takes to fill the gap between the top of my inner pipes and the rubber cap. This will vary depending on what type of caps you get, and the difference in the lengths of your pipes. It should be 1 ½ to 2 inches long. Be sure to drill holes and make notches in this pipe as mentioned in the assembly instruction. Mounting brackets can be hose clamps attached to pieces of metal attached to your vehicle or I use special plumbing hanger clamps available in the plumbing supply store. One last thing you will need is the electrolyte solution. You should purchase that from Hydrogen - Boost as our electrolyte is a proprietary secret and you could spend years finding one that works as good.

25 Hydrogen - Boost System Componen ts Cheklist Major component s : Install hydrogen generator, water trap, and hoses. Current on only when engine is running Current 20 amps cold/30 amps hot Gases routed through water trap and into intake before air filter. Electrolyte level to just below top of inner pipes. Install fuel heater. Check operation of gas tank pressure relief system. Install vaporizing system of your choice. Increase tire pressure to 50 psi. Install and adjust EFIE device from Eagle Research or electronic circuit from Hydrogen - Boost. Read and implement driving tips in operator’s manual. Install vacuum gauge for learning efficient driving techniques. Recomme nde d component s : Install new air filter, oil filter, Xcel Plus engine treatmen t, and Amsoil synthetic oil. Install Amsoil light weight synthetic lubricants in trans mission, transfer box, and differentials. Install Auterra Dyno- Scan or Innovate AFR Meter for monitoring the operation of your systems. Install hydrogen generator heater for winter conditions. Install Platinum 4 spark plugs or high energy spark system. Eliminate any brake drag caused by sticking callipers or cylinders. Install low rolling resistance tires. Install and use engine shut off switch for coasting.

26

Hydrogen Boost Electronic Controls Addendum If you chose to install the electronic control described in the Hydrogen Boost Manual with the adjustable air/fuel ration, here is an adden d u m to those instructions : Addendu m : it was recently discovered that modifying the MAP/MAF sensor signal not only changes the fuel mixture but also changes the timing advance some, usually more advanced. To recover some of the lost timing we have been able to fool the ECU by installing a high resistance resister (at first we used a 50 kilo ohm potentiometer) in place of the intake air temperat u re senor. On some vehicles this may be able to be accomplishe d by simply unplugging the sensor. The potentiometer allowed us to adjust the indicated intake air temperat ure so we could adjust the timing somewhat, but best results was achieved at the coldest indicated temperat ure (highest resistance). Il you chose to install the adjustable fuel ration control circuit you should also install a high resistance resister into the sensor plug for the intake air temperature sensor or simply unplug the sensor. In July 2004 we developed a third option for electronic controls that I very inexpensive to build and once set needs no adjustme n t. The only drawback is that once set it will trip the “check engine” or “service engine soon” light. If you have periodic emissions inspection, this light will have to be reset with a scan tool before going to the inspection or it will cause an automa tic failure of the inspection. It sure is strange that state laws require that a vehicle operates normally to pass the emissions test and has no provision for testing the actual emissions and passing the test when the emission are cleaner than normal. All our electronic control circuits cause the engine to run much leaner than normal, which causes much cleaner emissions. Check out our June 2004 newsletter to learn about the emissions caused by leaner mixtures. Let me explain how the new electronic circuit works before I explain how to build it. This circuits is for use on an electronic fuel injected vehicle which uses an oxygen senor. The ECU (engine control unit, on board computer) that decides how much fuel to inject runs in two modes, open loop and closed loop. Open loop operation is usually during engine warm - up, acceleration, and high throttle position. During open loop the ECU looks up on a program m e d chart, the conditions of the throttle position, intake manifold pressure, RPMs, and / o r mass air flow, and the chart determines the amount of fuel to inject. To this the ECU adds or subtracts the long term fuel trim that has been determined over a long period of operation at similar conditions while having feedback from the oxygen sensor. Closed loop operation is usually during warm engine, cruise conditions. In this mode the ECU looks at feedback from the oxygen sensor and adjust the amount of fuel injected based on the short term fuel trim added or subtracted from what was just recently injected. This operation requires a fairly constant throttle position of less than ¾ throttle. Whenever there is rapid change in throttle position the ECU goes back to open loop operation. Our first electronic control circuit added an adjustable amount of voltage to the oxygen senor signal to make the ECU think that the fuel mixture was too rich.

Our second electronic control circuit adjusted the signal from the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) or MAF (mass air flow) sensor, which told the ECU there was less air going into the engine than there actually was. This circuit worked real good in adjusting the fuel mixture as long as the ECU was in open loop operation. But the problem was that the ignition timing advance was also determine d by a program me d chart dependent on the MAP or MAF sensor signals. Whenever we changed the fuel ratio it also changes the timing advance and we lost the gain we achieved by running at a leaner mixture to take advantage of the Hydrogen - Boost componen t s. Our third electronic control circuit simply sets the long term fuel trim to the setting we determine to be the best fuel mixture and locks the ECU into open loop operation. Here is how it is done.

2 7 Wee intercept the oxygen sensor signal and rout it through a switch. When the switch is off the ECU is stuck in open loop because there is no signal coming form the oxygen sensor. When the ECU is in closed loop operation the oxygen sensor signal, which is a voltage between zero and one volt, determines what the ECU will do. If the voltage is low (below .5 volts) the ECU would raise the short term trim, causing more fuel to be injected. If the low voltage persists for more than three seconds, the long term fuel trim is raised by about 0.8%. If the low voltage persists the trim is raised again and so on until it gets to a program me d maximu m. Conversely if the oxygen sensor signal is high (greater than 0.650 volts) the short term trim will go negative and cause the long term trim to go negative. So if we can set the long term trim where we want it we can switch off the oxygen sensor signal and lock the ECU into open loop operation, locking the long term trim at that sitting. Unfortuna tely too high a voltage added to the oxygen sensor signal will cause the ECU to go into open loop operation. So we need a moderate (0.25 to 0.75 volts) voltage to be added to the signal to get the trim to change without knocking the ECU out of closed loop operation. Also what was discovered is that the lon term trip is not the same for all throttle settings. On my Saturn there are at least for long term trims to be set, one at idle, one at lower than idle manifold pressure (during deceleration), one at mid range throttle settings, and one at medium high throttle setting. In addition to these there is the near - full throttle setting that causes the ECU to ignore the long term trim altogether and determine the fuel to be injected solely from the program m e d chart. This causes a full rich injection required for maximu m power. So what we have to build is a circuit to create a 0.25 to 0.75 volt additional voltage to be added to the oxygen sensor signal. The EFIE device from Eagle Research will do this electronically using voltage from the car battery as a source of voltage and using a built in adjustable transforme r to regulate shipping from Eagle Research and was often not in stock. We figured out an easier and cheaper way to get this adjustable voltage. Our circuit, which is what we are going to explain how to build, is a 1.5 volt (AA size) dry cell battery, that is regulated by an in- line 50 kilo ohm potentiometer that takes away some of the voltage. We will also install a switch so that when we are setting the long term fuel trim, if we get it too lean we can shut off the additional voltage and use just the oxygen sensor voltage, which will reduce the trim.

The component s needed to build the circuit are as follows : Project box at least 2” x2”x3” Two toggle switches 50 k ohm potentiometer 20 gauge insulated copper wire AA size battery holder with terminals and wires AA size battery. Drill mounting holes for the toggle switches and potentio meter to be secured to the project box in a row in such a position that leaves enough room inside for the battery holder. The two switches should be next to each other and the potentiometer on the end. Mount the toggle switches and potentio meter, fastening them with the lock nuts that come with tem. Frill a small hole in one end of the project box for a pair of 20 gauge wires to enter. Il have my wire entering the end with the switches, having the potentiome ter on the far end. Insert the end of a 10 foot long pair of insulated 20 gauge wires through the small hole and tie a knot in them leaving about for inches inside to work with. Let’s label them green and white. The green wire will go to the oxygen sensor and the white wire will go to the harness where the oxygen sensor plugs in this leads to the ECU.

28 First park the vehicle in a safe place and set the idle trim by switching off the 02 switch (#1) and turn on the trimmer switch (#2) on the box and adjust the potentiometer so that the #1 oxygen sensor readout stays between 700 and 1000 mili volts. This will get the short term trim up near + 50% and within a few seconds the long term trim will increase. Continue until you have the trim you want. For idle a trim of - 10 to - 15% should be a good starting point. If the engine is still running smoothly you can go a little higher. If the engine begins to stumble you could back off. Once the idle trim is set increase the throttle setting until you see the long term trim readout to change. This throttle setting should require a 2000 to 2500 RPM setting. At this throttle setting repeat the above procedure until you get a setting of near - 15 % long term trim. Then increase the throttle setting again. If there is no setting that will change the long term trim again without red - lining the tachometer, you will have to put the vehicle in motion to get the trim to change again. If you can get the trim to switch again a different throttle setting, repeat the above procedure (turn #2 switch on and #1 off and adjust the potentio meter until you get the long term trim to where you want it. For higher throttle settings I recomme n d a slightly lower negative long term trim. My first attemp t was - 5.5% but I can’t tell any difference is power when the - 5.5% trim kicks in from the - 14.1% I had set for mid range throttle. The lower negative trim should give you more available torque and power so if it doesn’t there is no reason not to in crease the trim to say - 10% to - 15%. If the lower trim gives you better power then it is a good idea to leave it low for acceleration and hill climbing. Of course you will still have the full throttle rich fuel mixture power available whenever you are willing be doing good. This is not always easy to do. Once all these trims are set you can try to set the deceleration trim to a high negative trim, as high as you can get it. This may take a long downhill road to accomplish.

Those of you who have VOr V- 8 engines with left and right bank oxygen sensors will have to do some different wiring. Il recomme n d unplugging the left side oxygen sensor and slice into the right side oxygen sensor signal wire and route the outpu t signal from your control box (white wire) to both left and right oxygen sensor wires leading to the ECU. This should set the trim the same on both sides at the same time. Once the trims are set where you want them, shut off both switches on the control box. This should lock your ECU into open loop operation, which will lock the long term trims where you have them set. If you have no monitoring tool with trim readouts you can still set the trim by judging how your engine runs and just not knowing what the trim setting is. When setting the trim, if your engine begins to lose power or begins to hesitate and buck, you will want to decrease the trim setting by shutting off the #2 switch on your control box until the short term trim goes positive and the long term trim deceases to a point where the engine runs smoothly and with acceptable power. The shut off both switches or turn them both on to increase the trim again. You’re done, unless you want to play with the settings to get the optimum performa nce. Review of trimming switch settings : Normal ECU operation - #1 on, # 2 off Increase negative trim - #1 of, #2 on; set potentio meter so #1 02 sensor reads 750 to 950 mv. Decrease negative trim - #1 on, #2 off Done trimming (open loop) – both switches off. Warning : do not leave both switches in the on position for extended periods of time because it will wear out the internal battery.

29 Attach the ends of the wires to the terminals of the first switch. This will be the on/ off switch for the oxygen sensor signal. To the same terminal as the green wire connect the negative end of the battery holder (this wire is usually black). Attach the positive end wire (usually red) of the battery holder to the center terminal of the potentiometer. Attach another wire to one other terminal of the potentio meter. Attach another wire to one other terminal of the potentiometer (it has three, the one you choose will determine which way you’ll turn the potentiometer to adjust it). Attach the other end of this wire to one terminal of the second toggle switch. From the other terminal of the second toggle switch attach a wire that will lead to the terminal of the first toggle switch that has the white wire attached to it. Examine the picture of the wiring diagram I you have any confusion.

To install the circuit identify the signal wire from the oxygen sensor to the ECU. Cut the wire and attach the green wire from your circuit to the wire coming from the oxygen sensor and attach the white wire to the wire leading to the ECU. The best location for the control box is in the cockpit within reach of the driver. To do a good job of adjusting the long term trim of the ECU it is best to have a monitoring device that has a readout of the short term and long term trim. The Auterra Dyno - Scan tool available from Hydrogen - Boost works good for this. There are cheaper scan tools available on the internet, some less than $100. Be sure to get a scan tool that will reset the check engine light. If you don’t have a monitor you will have a slightly more difficult time setting the long term trim but once it is set you shouldn’t need to adjust it again unless you reset the check engine light, which also requires a scan tool. To set the trim, your vehicle will have to be in closed loop operation so once your control circuit is installed leave the oxygen sensor switch (switch #1, left switch in our wiring diagram) in the on position until you are ready to set the trim. To get ready find an open road where you’ll be unobstructe d for an extended period of time (ten miles, ten minutes). Begin by insuring that the ECU is in closet loop operation. The best way to do this is to monitor the following parameters on a scan toll if available : # 1 oxygen sensor (upstrea m) long term trim short term fuel trim #2 oxygen sensor (downstrea m) If you have a scan tool that will only monitor two items, monitor the first two on the list above.

30 Hydrogen Boost Electronic Controls Addend u m If you chose to install the electronic control #2 described in the Hydrogen Boost Manual with the adjustable air/fuel ratio, here is an addend u m to those instructions : It was recently discovered that modifying the MAP/MAF sensor signal not only changes the fuel mixture but also changes the timing advance some, usually more advanced. To prevent the offset of the timing advance we developed circuit #3, called the trimmer circuit. It allowed us to set the long term fuel trim to whatever we wanted, regardless of the ECU’s desire to shoot for the 14.7 to 1 fuel ration mandate d by the oxygen sensor. This worked out fine as long as you know what fuel ratio works best. With little guidance and no feedback from the oxygen sensor #1 the fuel ration is difficult to choose for the various operating conditions of the engine. Using the # 2 oxygen sensor as a guide helps but we have discovered another, even simpler circuit to address the fuel ration. Here is how it works. The circuit is really the installation of simple versions of circuits #2 and #3. The component s are available at your local electronics store (like Radio Shack). The compone nts needed are as follows. 5- 10 kilo ohm potentiometer (adjustable resister) switch 20 gauge insulated wire. Wire terminals or solder gun and solder, to attach wires to above devices. Procedure for installation : Install the potentiometer inside the cockpit as you would the #2 electronic circuit (Pot Mod). See manual for instructions. Install switch inside the cockpit as you would #3 electronic circuit (trimmer circuit) I install both the potentiome ter and the switch down on the lower portion of the dashboard down by the driver’s right knee under the steering wheel. Procedure for adjusting : Set the potentiome ter at zero ohms. You can determine which way to turn it to do this by monitoring the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor signal on your scantool monitor. With the engine shut off, the potentio meter should be turned in whatever direction that creates an indication of atmosp h eric pressure on your monitor of MAP. Most gauges have this as aroun d 30 in hg, or 14 psi, but some gauges use kPa. If you get confused just turn the pot all the way in one direction and try to start the engine. If it doesn’t start turn the pot all the way in the other direction. Whichever setting gets the engine to start is the correct setting. Warm up the engine to maximu m temperat ure. If you are using a higher temperature thermosta t, be sure the temperatu re is all the way up to the new

temperature, especially if you have a circulating fuel system that returns hot fuel to the fuel tank. When the fuel in the tank is fully heated by 30 minutes or more of driving, you’ll notice the long and short term fuel trim moving negative whenever your evaporative emissions control system is allowing fuel vapors to go into your intake manifold. This is the condition under which you will want to adjust the fuel ration. On my Saturn the vapors are purged into the intake whenever the intake vacuum is midrange (10- 20 in Hg). During the first few second of this condition is when the most vapors are purged. After a few second of midrange throttle setting the vapors will run out and the short term fuel trim will go to near zero. The long term fuel trim will usually continue to stay negative. My objective when adjusting this circuit is to get the long term fuel trim to set as high as possible with the oxygen sensor at each of the throttle positions that has a setting, then shutting off the oxygen sensor switch, to lock in those settings.

3 1 I start with the idle setting by idling the engine until the long term trim tops out. Then I drive at a low range throttle setting push the throttle until you see the long term trim change on your scantool monitor. Drive at this throttle setting until you see the short tern trim begin to fade, then let up on the throttle to idle or decelerate so more vapors can accumulate in the tank (usually 5- 10 seconds) then depress the throttle until you get the vacuum setting needed to see that long term trim you are working on. Watch the short term trim max out and begin to increase the negative long term trim. Repeat this procedure until you get the highest long term trim you can get at that throttle setting. Then find the throttle setting required to get the next point where the long term trim indicates a change on your monitor. Follow the same procedure at that vacuum range until you get the highest negative trim you can. Then see if there are any other throttle settings that need trimming, and repeat the procedu re at those throttles setting. The last throttle setting you’ll work on is full throttle, and this setting will likely take the least long term trim. Once you get the trims set at the highest negative setting you can, turn off the oxygen sensor switch. This should give you a reasonably good fuel ratio when the tank is giving your vapors. It will be somewhat lean for times when the tank is cold and this may cause a hard to start condition in cold weather. If so reduce the trim setting at idle. After the trims are set and the oxygen sensor is shut off, you can further lean the mixture bu adjusting the potentiome ter off the stop when you set the trim. Always be sure the oxygen sensor switch is shut off when you adjust the potentiometer. If you adjust the potentiometer with the oxygen sensor operating, you’ll only fight against the ECU and the fuel trims will go positive. To get the last adjustme n t on your potentiome ter you want to cruise at a number of throttle settings and try to fine tune the potentio meter during your most likely throttle setting. You want the adjustme n t to be lean but not enough to rob your power. You can turn the pot up and down and fell where the power is lost. Just turn it to the leanest you can before the sport where you notice the loss in power. You may not fell much loss in power at low throttle setting so you might find a long hill an d adjust while climbing that hill at somewhat less than full throttle. Of course the best way to get the best adjust me n t I sot adjust the fuel ratio for the highest Exhaust Gas Temperature for any given setting except full throttle. Be warned that prolonged full throttle operation at the highest EGT setting may damage the engine by burning the exhaust valves. This is not a concern at somewhat less than

full throttle, because the EGT never gets near as high as it does at full throttle. If you have an EGT gauge, use it to adjust the potentiometer. If you notice that the highest temperatu re is at zero potentiometer setting, you may find that the long term trim is set too high for efficient operation. You may want to reset the long term trim a little lower and the try using the EGT again to set the potentiometer. You want to have the highest EGT during your most likely cruise throttle setting. So you might set the potentiometer after 15 - 20 seconds of that cruise throttle setting. This will purge the initial surge of vapors from the tank and get the best setting for prolonged cruise. You may experiment with various settings of long term trim at the different throttle settings that trigger a change in trim on your monitor. The best adjust men t is the combination that will give you the highest EGT at whatever throttle settings you operate at. Of course it will be nearly impossible to get the highest EGT at all times, especially if you are changing the throttle setting every 5- 10 seconds sometimes and every 20- 30 seconds at other times. That surge of vapors from the tank will be something you’ll be challenged to contend with if your driving conditions are unpredictable. Any settings that give you an optimu m compro mise between too rich during initial vapour purge and too lean after initial vacuum purge, will be the best you can do. Of course the best thing to do is moderate your driving to produce throttle settings that make this compro mise unneede d.